Tampa Hackerspace - User contributions [en]

HP Designjet-T1100ps printer-leebcs writeup

2025-05-16T17:33:26Z

Leebc: fixed spelling of consecutive

I used my Ubuntu 18.04 Linux laptop and the wider (old looking) HP Designet-T1100ps printer. I can't vouch for any other combination, but some of this will still apply.

The printer is/was in the middle of the whiteboard wall in the large room in 4931.

There is/was a roll of 42 inch "regular" paper on it. There is/was a roll of photo paper in a box under/behind that printer if you really need glossy.

Be aware that some of the colors may be flakey and not "true".

I should probably mention that 42 inches is BIG!Recent discussions in the member meetings have talked about getting rid of this printer and adopting one of the other 2 that are next to it.. So the HP Designet-T1100ps might disappear at some point.There is a long USB cable connected to the printer. All I had to do was plug the usb into my laptop and it just found the driver and was ready to go.

I recommend sitting on the far side of the table and running the USB across so that there is room to pull the printer out from the wall, and so that you can more easily watch (glance up at) it while it is printing.

You will need room to walk behind and in front of the printer.Any of these cause the printer to go through a several minute long cleaning and testing process: Power on; start a print; finish a print; load paper; unload paper; paper jam; yell at the printer; breath too heavily on the printer. It's not that it's sensitive, it just takes a long time, be patient and plan to spend 90 minutes messing with each print. The printing itself seemed surprisingly fast, everything else is slow. Avoid doing the things mentioned.The HP Designet-T1100ps printer has a built in cutter and will cut your print job off when it is finished (with it's post print cleaning).

There is a "basket-thing" between the legs that folds to the front that will catch completed print jobs. Multiple consecutive print jobs do not require the printer to clean itself before cutting and releasing your job. This is probably so it is not turned off after a print but before it can finish self-cleaning.Ink: The policy was "Ink on this printer is expensive. Please donate $X per linear foot of your print job."

However, recent discussion have talked about getting rid of this printer. If we keep the printer and buy more ink, I'm willing to contribute $, but if we're getting rid of it, I am just helping to use up the last of the ink.
Please act as you see fit.

There is a control panel on the top front of the printer. Features like load/unload paper are available there. It also tells you that the paper jammed and to reload it.
NOTE: After you load paper, the control panel wants you to specify the type of paper: photo/heavy/regular/etc.
The new paper is rolled on tubes. There are blue "plugs" that go into the tubes and allow the machine to hold the paper on it's spindle. Make sure the paper is rolled snugly on the tube.

There is a lever on the left top side (looking from the front) of the machine that needs to be operated during loading/unloading. The control panel will tell you this.
Don't drop the photo paper on the floor.If you get a crinkled/torn paper jam or are loading paper, you will probably need to cut the end off first.

I recommend:
* Unload the paper.
* Close the printer lid.
* Pull the paper up over the top of the printer. There are slots that go across the top of the printer that are perpendicular to the paper.
* Use a razorblade riding in these clots to cut the paper straight, all the way across.
* The printer WILL complain if the corners of the paper are messed up. I tried with scissors but my corners weren't square enough, so I used my utility knife. The cut doesn't need to be completely straight, '''but it does need to be square'''
* Loading the paper wasn't hard, but I kept holding my breath, not sure if it worked. Because it took a while and that cleaning cycle.

* The control panel menu has an option to cut the paper. So if you load a ragged, jagged edge, use this option to cut a clean one.

Once I got the driver installed and the paper loaded, I went into the printer properties:
You probably don't want to scale or resize anything. Minimal margins.

= Printer options: =
* Set a custom media size. The paper on the machine is 42 inches wide, and i set the length to...something stupid like 100 inches.
* Paper source is Roll.
* I'm not sure about any color settings.
* I removed top/bottom blank areas, thought you might need it depending on how your image is setup.
Job options:
* probably don't scale to fit (edited)

Software:
I use the GIMP (Gnu Image Manipulation Program. It is an open-source alternative to Photoshop. You would probably do similar things in photoshop.

= Existing document: =
Open your existing large image file in Gimp.

* Image menu --> properties: Verify the size, both in pixels and print size. One of the dimensions will need to be 42 inches or less. Either the height or the width can ultimately be 42 inches. We can rotate it. (see below)

When scaling or resizing, there is a padlock icon. :lock:/:unlock: When this is on/locked it will preserve the width to height ratio. For these operations, you probably want it ON/locked/:lock:Check the edges of the image. There may be undesired whitespace (or non white space) near the edges that you don't want to print.

You can use the rectangle selection tool to select the portion of the large image that you want to print.

* Image menu --> crop to selection: will crop the entire image to just the portion you have selected

* Image menu --> canvas size: To change the size of your canvas
* Image menu --> print size: set the size the image will print as. One of your dimensions has a max length of your paper width.
* Image menu --> Mode: Lets you change the image to grayscale if you don't want color
* Image menu --> Scale image : Lets you rescale the image to a larger or smaller size. Click "scale" to perform this operation. If the size is wrong, Ctrl-Z/undo will undo it. Remember to lock the aspect ratio :lock: when scaling.
Remember: Either the width or the height can be the paper width.

Use the above tools to resize it so that either the width or the height is the paper width (42 inches)If the image is wider than it is tall, use

* Image menu --> Transform --> Rotate 90' clockwise/counter-clockwise: rotate the image 1/4 turn. It doesn't matter with direction you choose.

Test print your layout: Test the layout by printing only 1 or 2 inches tall of this image. For this test print go to

* Image menu --> canvas size: unlock the aspect ratio :unlock: and change the height to either 1 or 2 inches tall. Keep the width at 42 inches.
* Image menu --> Print size: Verify it will only print 1-2 inch in height
* File menu --> Print: make sure the HP-Designjet-T1100ps is selected

Page setup: Make sure the paper size shown is 42 inches wide and some large number tall. if not, you may need to create a custom paper size.
Job: No cover page!!
Print or Print Preview.

The job will take a couple minutes to transfer to the printer.
The printer will then take a few minutes to pre-clean itself.
The job will take a comparably short time to print, probably 1-2 minutes.
The printer will take a few minutes to post-clean.
The printer will cut your job and your thin strip of paper will fall down.Verify that your job looks like it will be correct.
Check that the width is the desired width and not, say 50% or 25% of the desired width.
Check that the color is kinda acceptable.

Now in Gimp, pressing Ctrl-Z/undo should undo the last operation, restoring your document size to the full height.

* Image menu --> canvas size: verify it is the full height
* Image menu --> Print size: verify it is the full height

=Print it!=

* File menu --> Print: make sure the HP-Designjet-T1100ps is selected

Page setup: Make sure the paper size shown is 42 inches wide and some large number tall.
If not, you may need to create a custom paper size.
Job: No cover page!!
Print or Print Preview.

Check that the "catch basket" at the front of the printer is open to catch your job.The job will take a couple minutes to transfer to the printer. The printer will then take a few minutes to pre-clean itself. The job will take a slightly longer time to print, probably 4-10 minutes. The printer will take a few minutes to post-clean. The printer will cut your job and job will fall down. (edited)

=New document:=
Create a new document that is 42 inches (the paper width) wide, and however long you need. You may get a warning about it being a large document and using a lot of memory.Draw your image. Or open something. You can open multiple images and copy-paste parts into your final product. This is left as an exercise for the user.See notes above about resizing.
Perform a test print as above.
Final print as above.

Category:Printers

2025-05-16T17:05:53Z

Leebc: /* Xante X-32 UV Ink Printer */ Strikethrough, gone.

== HP DesignJet T1100ps ==

Large-format printer

[[HP Designjet-T1100ps printer-leebcs writeup|leebc's writeup for usage]]

[https://drive.google.com/file/d/150EW2eNZRrhoIsrkerkGLo83GtT5XpUV/view?usp=share_link user guide]

[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xKOOLPqVlfmd6Vo6MSHKPbpffqxhwyyh/view?usp=share_link service manual]

'''As of 2/2025, working but slight striping in some prints'''

== Canon imagePROGRAF TM-200 ==

Large-format printer

[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xKOOLPqVlfmd6Vo6MSHKPbpffqxhwyyh/view?usp=share_link manual]

'''As of 2/2025, working with new ink but complaining about printhead age'''

== Konica Minolta magicolor 7450 II ==

Color laser printer

Supports paper sizes of up to 12.25" x 47.24". It can also handle media as small as 3.55" x 5.50". The magicolor features a multipurpose paper drawer that can hold up to 250 sheets of paper. It can even print envelopes, card stock, and transparencies. The multipurpose tray can handle paper up to 12 x 18" in size; larger format banner paper can be fed through the manual feed tray. 9600 x 600 dpi resolution.

Located in vinyl area of 4935. It is wired to the network but does not like to stay connected to the network when it "wakes up" from sleep. Best to power it off and on. It may be easiest to print from the USB connection instead.

[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1d5_V6MUfcztZKeCMV_x7AwUpcUgmc46A/view?usp=share_link reference guide]

'''As of 2/2025, working but low on yellow toner (new cartridge standing by)'''

== Epson WF-7710 ==

Color inkjet. Can handle cardstock and 11" x 17" media.

We also have dye sublimation cartridges for this printer but switching between those and regular cartridges requires purging ink.

[https://drive.google.com/file/d/18XH_w9XHhX6KLrvkRJti8g8SCLA3uqeV/view?usp=share_link manual]

'''As of 2/2025 still down - needs troubleshooting and likely a new printhead. New ink in file cabinet. '''

== Brother MFC-8480DN ==

Basic black & white laser printer. Has duplexer for double-sided printing. Located outside 4931 kitchen.

== HP LaserJet Professional P 1102w ==

Small format black & white laser printer. Located in front of 4935 big classroom.

Does not like to stay connected to network at all but works via USB.

== <s>Xante X-32 UV Ink Printer</s> ==
<s>
''currently not in service, expected to leave''

[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1b1jitnhOoKqbbbeebZe6dkn6TvxCvYs0 [manual]]

[[Category:IT]] [[Category:Main]]
</s>
Gone.

Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver

2025-01-28T16:04:49Z

Leebc: /* Example 2a: Placing a logo centered in the middle of a plaque */

The ULS M360 Laser engraver has an "X-Y Mode" which can be used to obtain precise measurements and locations on the laser's bed.


__TOC__

== Reasons you might want to Use X-Y Mode ==
* To find a usable area on a piece of already cut material (scrap)
* To mark the exact location of an engrave on an existing piece
** Raster engrave a logo in the middle of a pre-cut plaque
** Vector engrave a design on the left edge of a cutting board
* To find the center of a circle and vector cut a small hole

== How to Use X-Y Mode ==
'''WARNING: The procedures described here may cause sudden, unexpected, rapid movement of laser engraver mechanicals. To avoid injury or damage to the machine: keep body parts and loose materials out of the enclosure. Ensure that objects inside the enclosure will not impact the focus carriage or the air-assist nozzle.'''
* If you are using the rotary attachment, remove the air assist nozzle
* Ensure that the honeycomb bed (if installed) is placed and pressed flush and square against the upper left corner
* Place your work piece on the bed.
** Typically, you will want your material pressed flush into the upper left corner of the bed.
** If you plan on multiple laser passes, secure your work piece to the bed using tape

* Set the Z-height using the standard procedure
* Remove any unnecessary objects from the enclosure, including body parts

[Figure 1: M360 Laser Engraver Control Panel] 
[[File:M360_Laser_Engraver_Control_Panel.png]]

* Make sure the Laser Engraver's display reads "Ready" or the name of your file
* Press the button on the control panel labeled "X-Y". It is near the right hand side.
** The focus carriage MAY rapidly move towards the middle of the work area
** A red laser d•t will appear under the focus carriage
** The display will change and will now show text that includes "X-Pos" and "Y-Pos"
*** If you have the rotary attachment installed, you will see "X-Pos" and the Rotation in degrees.

* Press the left or down arrow that is around the X-Y button
** The focus carriage MAY rapidly move towards the middle of the work area
* The focus carriage will move slightly each time one of the movement buttons is pressed: "Up", "Down", "Left", or "Right"
** MOTION CONTROL: Pressing and holding down one or two adjacent, arrow buttons will cause the Focus Carriage to move in the respective direction. The focus carriage will start to move slowly and will accelerate to a faster speed until you release the button(s).
** This motion will make a loud noise as the motors turn and move the focus carriage
* Use the arrows to move the red laser dot to a feature you want to locate
** With each movement, the "X-Pos" and/or "Y-Pos" will change

* X-Pos is the absolute X-position on the laser engraver's bed
* Y-Pos is the Y-position on the laser engraver's bed,
** HOWEVER: CorelDraw uses the LOWER left corner as the origin, and the Laser Engraver uses the UPPER left corner as the origin
*** '''You must subtract Y-Pos from 12 for the correct value in CorelDraw'''

[Figure2: CorelDraw's Object Property Bar] 
[[File:CorelDraw-Property Bar.png]]
* In CorelDraw, there should be an X and a Y coordinate box near the upper left of the menus. There may be 2 sets of these boxes.
* Next to the coordinates is a small icon with 9 tiny boxes arranged in a square pattern.
** These boxes indicate what point will be used as the Origin Point (the values shown for X and Y) of the currently selected object
*** Top Left, Top Center, Top Right, Left Middle, Middle Center, Right Middle, Bottom Left, Bottom Center, or Bottom Right
* Choose the origin point you wish to use
* Type the X-Pos value into the X box
* In the Y box, type "<code>12 - </code>" and then the Y-Pos, then press "Enter". (That's "twelve minus".) CorelDraw will automatically do the math!
** If you are working in a unit other than inches you can follow the 12 with a double-quote. I.e.: 12" -
* Verify the numbers you typed are correct, sometimes CorelDraw can be finicky about how they are entered.

== Examples Of Uses ==

===Example 1: Cutting a rectangle from a piece of scrap===

Let's say you have a "roughly triangular" piece of scrap material that has a large circle cut from it. There is still a usable amount of material in this piece and you want to cut a rectangle from it to use for a plaque or sign.
You want the rectangle to use the existing corner, the top edge, the left edge, and for the lower corner to intersect the circular cut.
[image suggested]

* Place your work piece in the upper left corner of the laser engraver honeycomb.
** Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.

* Use the arrows to move the red dot to the point on the circle where you want your rectangle to intersect.
** It is usually good to position a little bit short.

* In CorelDraw, select the Lower Right Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle that goes from the upper left corner to roughly where you think it will intersect the circle
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of the X-Pos. For example "<code>5.236</code>" and press enter.
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-2.879</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 9.121
** The rectangle will shift position.
* Grab the upper left corner of the rectangle and drag it to just beyond the boundaries of the document
** Remember, we want to use the existing edge, so we don't need to cut on the top or left side

* Test the rectangles location:
** Set the rectangle's line style to the color you want to cut with and "Hairline"
** With ONLY the rectangle selected, press Ctrl-P to print, or choose "Print" from the "File" menu.
** Choose the option "Selected Only" which is in roughly the middle of the print dialog box
** Make sure the rectangle's color is set to "Vector"
*** Since we are only testing you may want to use a higher speed than normal.
** Click on print
* After a moment, the Laser Engraver should display your file. Use the "Next File >>" button if not.

* '''Make sure you have exited X-Y mode by pressing the X-Y botton'''
* With the lid open and no body parts or objects in the machine, watch where you expect the cut to be made, and press the green "Start" button
* The red laser dot will turn on and will move across the lines to be cut.
** You should only see the right and bottom lines. These lines should intersect exactly at the point you chose.

'''--- Alternate CorelDraw Procedure ---'''

* In CorelDraw, select the Upper Left Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle that goes from the upper left corner to roughly where you think it will intersect the circle
* In the X coordinate box, type "<code>0</code>" and press Enter.
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type "<code>12</code>" and press enter.
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the x-size box ("|↔|") type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>5.236</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* In the y-size box ("↨") type the value of the Y-Pos and press enter. No need to subtract in this method. For example "<code>2.879</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* With this method, you will have a cut on all 4 sides of the rectangle.
* Follow the procedure in the example above to test the location.
** You may find that the left X=0 and top Y=12 cut lines are not at the edges of the honeycomb rulers.

===Example 2a: Placing a logo centered in the middle of a plaque===
For this example, we want to raster engrave a logo in the center of a pre-cut rectangular acrylic plaque.
We are going to assume that the center point of the logo image IS in the center of the logo. This is not always the case, sometimes there is extra white space on one side which can cause a logo to appear uneven.

* Place your work piece (the plaque) in the upper left cornet of the honeycomb bed.
* SHIFT your work piece so that there is about 1/4 inch between the top of the rail and the top of the plaque, and so that there is approximately 1/4 inch of space between the left rail and the left side of the plaque. You can use anything available as a spacer if desired, perhaps scrap cuts or pens.
* Ensure that the horizontal and vertical axles of the work piece are parallel to the X and Y rails
** You can test this by putting the laser engraver in X-Y mode and moving the red laser dot along an edge or between two mirrored points.

* Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.
* Move the red laser dot to the upper left corner of the plaque.

* In CorelDraw, select the Upper Left Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle that goes from the upper left corner to roughly where you think the lower right corner is.
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>0.225</code>".
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-0.287</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 11.713
** The rectangle will shift position.

* Move the red laser dot to the lower right corner of the plaque.

* In the x-size box ("|↔|") type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>16.236</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* In the y-size box ("↨") type the value of the Y-Pos and press enter. No need to subtract in this method. For example "<code>6.666</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* ERROR: Looking at this write-up a couple years later, I see that the width/height values will need to have the "offset" value subtracted from them or the center will not be correct.

* Import your raster logo. Place it off to the side.
* With the selection tool selected, grab the logo in the middle.
* Drag the logo to the center of the rectangle you drew
* When the center of the logo lines up with the center of the rectangle, you should see the word "Center" underneath the mouse cursor.
** Release the mouse and the logo should snap to the center.

* BEFORE ENGRAVING: You may want to draw a new rectangle around the logo and test print it (no cut) to ensure you have correctly placed the logo in the center.

===Example 2b: Vector engrave a design on the left edge of a cutting board===
For this example, we want to Vector engrave a design on the left edge of a cutting board
We are going to assume that the center point of the design is the center, and that all parts of the design are grouped or otherwise joined, so we don't have to worry when moving it.

* Place your work piece (the cutting board) on the honeycomb bed.
* Ensure that the horizontal and vertical axles of the work piece are parallel to the X and Y rails
** You can test this by putting the laser engraver in X-Y mode and moving the red laser dot along an edge or between two mirrored points.

* Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.
* Move the red laser dot to the exact visual center of where you want the design to be placed.
** Alternately, you could choose to align to one of the corners or the middle of a side

* In CorelDraw, select the Center Origin Point (Or the Origin Point that matches the corner or side you are aligning to)
* Import or copy-paste your vector design if necessary
* Select the design
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>2.123</code>".
** The design will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-5.226</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 6.774.
** The design will shift position.

* You may want to test print (no engrave) the design first. Follow the test procedure as outlined above.

===Example 3: Vector cut a small hole in the center of a circle===
In this example we have a pre-cut circular work piece and want to cut a small circle in the middle of it. (For various reasons we are not able to measure it, or we don't want to go to the trouble of cutting a jig.)
* This method may not get the precise center, but we will be close.

* Place your work piece (the circle) on the honeycomb bed.
* Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.
* Move the red laser dot to the right edge of the circle. Be as precise as you can, the center of the laser dot should align with the right-most point on the circle

* In CorelDraw, select the Upper Left Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle approximately 1 inch square
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>5.980</code>".
** The square will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-2.9895</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 9.0105
** The square will shift position.

* Move the red laser dot to the bottom edge of the circle. Be as precise as you can, the center of the laser dot should align with the bottom-most point on the circle

* In CorelDraw, Draw a second rectangle approximately 1 inch square
* In the X coordinate box, type the new value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>2.899</code>".
** The square will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the new value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-5.983</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 6.017
** The square will shift position.

* Off to the side, draw a circle the diameter of the hole you want to cut.
** '''Please Note:''' Although it is fine and precise, the laser beam does burn a small extra width, or kerf. You may need to experiment to get the correct actual diameter.
** Hold down the CTRL key when drawing to ensure the circle is a circle and not larger in one dimension
* Using the selection tool, grab the middle of the circle
* "Tap" the middle of the circle against the upper left corner of each square with out releasing.
** Once you tap, layout lines will appear and can be used as a guide to place the circle at their intersection.
** The word "intersection" will appear when the cutting circle is correctly placed.

* You may want to test print (no cut) the circle before cutting. Follow the test procedure as outlined above.

[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

User:Leebc

2025-01-27T22:04:54Z

Leebc: /* Classes I Teach */

== About me ==

=== What I Make ===

=== Classes I Teach ===

* None.

'''Classes I could be talked into teaching if there is enough explicit interest:'''
* "Designing laser-cuttable model buildings for D&D, railroad, and other miniatures terrain"
* "Introduction to pottery: Pinch pots, coil pots, and slab pots" (This may be 2 or 3 separate classes.
* "Designing 3d printable furniture in OpenSCAD"
* "A method for creating UV maps/textures for 3d models for use in <strike>Unity3d</strike> Godot Engine"
* "Using THS's Knee-mill's DRO"

=== Interests ===
* MAPS!
* Laser cutting flat things and turning into 3d things
* Visualizing strange data

=== Slack Channels I post in ===

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C64QUN85R #astronomy]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CENRLHAE6 #spacetech]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C17029YC9 #sewing-and-textiles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0259RYHBDY #kilns]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CJQ9YPFJ4 #cosplay]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0419EWAEJ2 #3d-modeling]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C01MJUQS3F0 #science-articles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C6TRESTC7 #VR]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C026U6Z3E7R #random-bryan-shares]

== Some of my projects ==
=== Maps! ===
[[File:CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay.jpg|thumb|CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay]]

=== Laser cut DOMES! ===

== Research ==

=== Lasercut Frames ===
'''Some collected thoughts on laser-cutting picture frame'''

'''Asked in slack and on facebook:'''
* Does anyone have any thoughts on finishing laser-cut picture frames?
* I could cut multiple parts out of 1/8th" or 1/16th" material and glue together, but my real concern and question is about finishing the edges.
* MDF or acrylic would have a clean edge, and the whole thing could be painted... but what if you were using 1/8" or 1/4" plywood?
* Can you think of a material that would be better for picture frames?
* How hard is it to work with a stick-on veneer?
* What kind of paint?

'''Some suggestions include:'''
* vinyl wrap the frame
* "Cheaper material like Plywood could get cleaned up with some of the same techniques and materials as 3d printed parts, Water putty/spot putty to fill in voids and then sand able primer and you can get a very clean surface to paint to get the same finish as solid wood parts."
* Another suggestion is to laser-cut a bevel using a jig. This should work if the frame pieces are thin enough and narrow enough.
* Acrylic mirror could be really nice.
* I love stick on veneer. I laser cut it and use it with finished plywood in layers. I just make sure to laser myself a template on the bottom layer because it’s really hard to line stuff up without it. I also like the look of veneer on top of acrylic too.
* Otherwise I feel like a [beveled] edge is really a nice finish for frames if you have the tools. So I would probably do that then paint/stain, spray with the triple thick clear topcoat (sand in between coats) if I want the grain or maybe top it with a thin layer of resin if not. I’m kinda addicted to how easy and quick UV resin is but regular resin would be so quick if you had several to do.
* It's not really a frame. The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.



'''Acrylic mirror:'''
* Could make a mirror by cutting a back plate of mirrored acrylic, then acrylic cement or CA glue on some black or white strips of acrylic like this <image>. Maybe put some round or shaped holes in them so the mirror...uh... mirrors through.
* Or could paint the black & white on using masking as a template or use a thin veneer so the mirror isn’t too shadowed
* Acrylic frame with mirrored edges (black background) <other image>
[[File:313353003 5725989027439741 246525687503688386 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|left|alt=The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.]]
[[File:312977638 5725916744113636 7646024862373953283 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|alt=Acrylic mirror example. mirrored back with cur acrylic pieces to attach on top of the mirror at the edges]]
[[File:Acrylic picture frame example 1.jpg|50:50px|thumb|none|alt=An example of an acrylic picture frame|An example of an acrylic picture frame]]

=== Living Hinges ===

=== Make Your Own Lightsaber Handle from PVC ===
[[PVC Lightsaber Class]]

=== Write Your own G-Code for symmetric shapes on the Tormach ===

== Class/Project/Product ideas you're welcome to use ==

=== Classes: ===

==== [[School Class for CO2 Laser Cutter|Ideas for a Middle/High School Class Involving a CO2 Laser Cutter/Engraver]] ====

=== Projects: ===

=== Products: ===
* A device or Amazon Alexa skill that can be run at a dentist office to listen to drill/suction noise in one room, then invert it and playback in another room to create destructive interference and cancel out the noise.

User:Leebc

2025-01-27T22:03:49Z

Leebc: /* Research */

== About me ==

=== What I Make ===

=== Classes I Teach ===

* None.

'''Classes I could be talked into teaching if there is enough explicit interest:'''
* "Designing laser-cuttable model buildings for D&D, railroad, and other miniatures terrain"
* "Introduction to pottery: Pinch pots, coil pots, and slab pots" (This may be 2 or 3 separate classes.
* "Designing 3d printable furniture in OpenSCAD"
* "A method for creating UV maps/textures for 3d models for use in <strike>Unity3d</strike> Godot Engine"

=== Interests ===
* MAPS!
* Laser cutting flat things and turning into 3d things
* Visualizing strange data

=== Slack Channels I post in ===

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C64QUN85R #astronomy]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CENRLHAE6 #spacetech]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C17029YC9 #sewing-and-textiles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0259RYHBDY #kilns]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CJQ9YPFJ4 #cosplay]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0419EWAEJ2 #3d-modeling]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C01MJUQS3F0 #science-articles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C6TRESTC7 #VR]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C026U6Z3E7R #random-bryan-shares]

== Some of my projects ==
=== Maps! ===
[[File:CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay.jpg|thumb|CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay]]

=== Laser cut DOMES! ===

== Research ==

=== Lasercut Frames ===
'''Some collected thoughts on laser-cutting picture frame'''

'''Asked in slack and on facebook:'''
* Does anyone have any thoughts on finishing laser-cut picture frames?
* I could cut multiple parts out of 1/8th" or 1/16th" material and glue together, but my real concern and question is about finishing the edges.
* MDF or acrylic would have a clean edge, and the whole thing could be painted... but what if you were using 1/8" or 1/4" plywood?
* Can you think of a material that would be better for picture frames?
* How hard is it to work with a stick-on veneer?
* What kind of paint?

'''Some suggestions include:'''
* vinyl wrap the frame
* "Cheaper material like Plywood could get cleaned up with some of the same techniques and materials as 3d printed parts, Water putty/spot putty to fill in voids and then sand able primer and you can get a very clean surface to paint to get the same finish as solid wood parts."
* Another suggestion is to laser-cut a bevel using a jig. This should work if the frame pieces are thin enough and narrow enough.
* Acrylic mirror could be really nice.
* I love stick on veneer. I laser cut it and use it with finished plywood in layers. I just make sure to laser myself a template on the bottom layer because it’s really hard to line stuff up without it. I also like the look of veneer on top of acrylic too.
* Otherwise I feel like a [beveled] edge is really a nice finish for frames if you have the tools. So I would probably do that then paint/stain, spray with the triple thick clear topcoat (sand in between coats) if I want the grain or maybe top it with a thin layer of resin if not. I’m kinda addicted to how easy and quick UV resin is but regular resin would be so quick if you had several to do.
* It's not really a frame. The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.



'''Acrylic mirror:'''
* Could make a mirror by cutting a back plate of mirrored acrylic, then acrylic cement or CA glue on some black or white strips of acrylic like this <image>. Maybe put some round or shaped holes in them so the mirror...uh... mirrors through.
* Or could paint the black & white on using masking as a template or use a thin veneer so the mirror isn’t too shadowed
* Acrylic frame with mirrored edges (black background) <other image>
[[File:313353003 5725989027439741 246525687503688386 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|left|alt=The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.]]
[[File:312977638 5725916744113636 7646024862373953283 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|alt=Acrylic mirror example. mirrored back with cur acrylic pieces to attach on top of the mirror at the edges]]
[[File:Acrylic picture frame example 1.jpg|50:50px|thumb|none|alt=An example of an acrylic picture frame|An example of an acrylic picture frame]]

=== Living Hinges ===

=== Make Your Own Lightsaber Handle from PVC ===
[[PVC Lightsaber Class]]

=== Write Your own G-Code for symmetric shapes on the Tormach ===

== Class/Project/Product ideas you're welcome to use ==

=== Classes: ===

==== [[School Class for CO2 Laser Cutter|Ideas for a Middle/High School Class Involving a CO2 Laser Cutter/Engraver]] ====

=== Projects: ===

=== Products: ===
* A device or Amazon Alexa skill that can be run at a dentist office to listen to drill/suction noise in one room, then invert it and playback in another room to create destructive interference and cancel out the noise.

User:Leebc

2025-01-27T22:02:19Z

Leebc: /* Classes I Teach */

== About me ==

=== What I Make ===

=== Classes I Teach ===

* None.

'''Classes I could be talked into teaching if there is enough explicit interest:'''
* "Designing laser-cuttable model buildings for D&D, railroad, and other miniatures terrain"
* "Introduction to pottery: Pinch pots, coil pots, and slab pots" (This may be 2 or 3 separate classes.
* "Designing 3d printable furniture in OpenSCAD"
* "A method for creating UV maps/textures for 3d models for use in <strike>Unity3d</strike> Godot Engine"

=== Interests ===
* MAPS!
* Laser cutting flat things and turning into 3d things
* Visualizing strange data

=== Slack Channels I post in ===

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C64QUN85R #astronomy]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CENRLHAE6 #spacetech]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C17029YC9 #sewing-and-textiles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0259RYHBDY #kilns]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CJQ9YPFJ4 #cosplay]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0419EWAEJ2 #3d-modeling]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C01MJUQS3F0 #science-articles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C6TRESTC7 #VR]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C026U6Z3E7R #random-bryan-shares]

== Some of my projects ==
=== Maps! ===
[[File:CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay.jpg|thumb|CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay]]

=== Laser cut DOMES! ===

== Research ==

=== Lasercut Frames ===
'''Some collected thoughts on laser-cutting picture frame'''

'''Asked in slack and on facebook:'''
* Does anyone have any thoughts on finishing laser-cut picture frames?
* I could cut multiple parts out of 1/8th" or 1/16th" material and glue together, but my real concern and question is about finishing the edges.
* MDF or acrylic would have a clean edge, and the whole thing could be painted... but what if you were using 1/8" or 1/4" plywood?
* Can you think of a material that would be better for picture frames?
* How hard is it to work with a stick-on veneer?
* What kind of paint?

'''Some suggestions include:'''
* vinyl wrap the frame
* "Cheaper material like Plywood could get cleaned up with some of the same techniques and materials as 3d printed parts, Water putty/spot putty to fill in voids and then sand able primer and you can get a very clean surface to paint to get the same finish as solid wood parts."
* Another suggestion is to laser-cut a bevel using a jig. This should work if the frame pieces are thin enough and narrow enough.
* Acrylic mirror could be really nice.
* I love stick on veneer. I laser cut it and use it with finished plywood in layers. I just make sure to laser myself a template on the bottom layer because it’s really hard to line stuff up without it. I also like the look of veneer on top of acrylic too.
* Otherwise I feel like a [beveled] edge is really a nice finish for frames if you have the tools. So I would probably do that then paint/stain, spray with the triple thick clear topcoat (sand in between coats) if I want the grain or maybe top it with a thin layer of resin if not. I’m kinda addicted to how easy and quick UV resin is but regular resin would be so quick if you had several to do.
* It's not really a frame. The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.



'''Acrylic mirror:'''
* Could make a mirror by cutting a back plate of mirrored acrylic, then acrylic cement or CA glue on some black or white strips of acrylic like this <image>. Maybe put some round or shaped holes in them so the mirror...uh... mirrors through.
* Or could paint the black & white on using masking as a template or use a thin veneer so the mirror isn’t too shadowed
* Acrylic frame with mirrored edges (black background) <other image>
[[File:313353003 5725989027439741 246525687503688386 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|left|alt=The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.]]
[[File:312977638 5725916744113636 7646024862373953283 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|alt=Acrylic mirror example. mirrored back with cur acrylic pieces to attach on top of the mirror at the edges]]
[[File:Acrylic picture frame example 1.jpg|50:50px|thumb|none|alt=An example of an acrylic picture frame|An example of an acrylic picture frame]]

=== Living Hinges ===

=== Make Your Own Lightsaber Handle from PVC ===
[[PVC Lightsaber Class]]

== Class/Project/Product ideas you're welcome to use ==

=== Classes: ===

==== [[School Class for CO2 Laser Cutter|Ideas for a Middle/High School Class Involving a CO2 Laser Cutter/Engraver]] ====

=== Projects: ===

=== Products: ===
* A device or Amazon Alexa skill that can be run at a dentist office to listen to drill/suction noise in one room, then invert it and playback in another room to create destructive interference and cancel out the noise.

User:Leebc

2025-01-27T22:00:32Z

Leebc: /* Class/Project/Product ideas you're welcome to use */

== About me ==

=== What I Make ===

=== Classes I Teach ===

* None.

'''Classes I could be talked into teaching if there is enough explicit interest:'''
* "Designing laser-cuttable model buildings for D&D, railroad, and other miniatures terrain"
* "Introduction to pottery: Pinch pots, coil pots, and slab pots" (This may be 2 or 3 separate classes.
* "Designing 3d printable furniture in OpenSCAD"
* "A method for creating UV maps/textures for 3d models for use in Unity3d"
*

=== Interests ===
* MAPS!
* Laser cutting flat things and turning into 3d things
* Visualizing strange data

=== Slack Channels I post in ===

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C64QUN85R #astronomy]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CENRLHAE6 #spacetech]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C17029YC9 #sewing-and-textiles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0259RYHBDY #kilns]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CJQ9YPFJ4 #cosplay]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0419EWAEJ2 #3d-modeling]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C01MJUQS3F0 #science-articles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C6TRESTC7 #VR]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C026U6Z3E7R #random-bryan-shares]

== Some of my projects ==
=== Maps! ===
[[File:CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay.jpg|thumb|CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay]]

=== Laser cut DOMES! ===

== Research ==

=== Lasercut Frames ===
'''Some collected thoughts on laser-cutting picture frame'''

'''Asked in slack and on facebook:'''
* Does anyone have any thoughts on finishing laser-cut picture frames?
* I could cut multiple parts out of 1/8th" or 1/16th" material and glue together, but my real concern and question is about finishing the edges.
* MDF or acrylic would have a clean edge, and the whole thing could be painted... but what if you were using 1/8" or 1/4" plywood?
* Can you think of a material that would be better for picture frames?
* How hard is it to work with a stick-on veneer?
* What kind of paint?

'''Some suggestions include:'''
* vinyl wrap the frame
* "Cheaper material like Plywood could get cleaned up with some of the same techniques and materials as 3d printed parts, Water putty/spot putty to fill in voids and then sand able primer and you can get a very clean surface to paint to get the same finish as solid wood parts."
* Another suggestion is to laser-cut a bevel using a jig. This should work if the frame pieces are thin enough and narrow enough.
* Acrylic mirror could be really nice.
* I love stick on veneer. I laser cut it and use it with finished plywood in layers. I just make sure to laser myself a template on the bottom layer because it’s really hard to line stuff up without it. I also like the look of veneer on top of acrylic too.
* Otherwise I feel like a [beveled] edge is really a nice finish for frames if you have the tools. So I would probably do that then paint/stain, spray with the triple thick clear topcoat (sand in between coats) if I want the grain or maybe top it with a thin layer of resin if not. I’m kinda addicted to how easy and quick UV resin is but regular resin would be so quick if you had several to do.
* It's not really a frame. The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.



'''Acrylic mirror:'''
* Could make a mirror by cutting a back plate of mirrored acrylic, then acrylic cement or CA glue on some black or white strips of acrylic like this <image>. Maybe put some round or shaped holes in them so the mirror...uh... mirrors through.
* Or could paint the black & white on using masking as a template or use a thin veneer so the mirror isn’t too shadowed
* Acrylic frame with mirrored edges (black background) <other image>
[[File:313353003 5725989027439741 246525687503688386 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|left|alt=The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.]]
[[File:312977638 5725916744113636 7646024862373953283 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|alt=Acrylic mirror example. mirrored back with cur acrylic pieces to attach on top of the mirror at the edges]]
[[File:Acrylic picture frame example 1.jpg|50:50px|thumb|none|alt=An example of an acrylic picture frame|An example of an acrylic picture frame]]

=== Living Hinges ===

=== Make Your Own Lightsaber Handle from PVC ===
[[PVC Lightsaber Class]]

== Class/Project/Product ideas you're welcome to use ==

=== Classes: ===

==== [[School Class for CO2 Laser Cutter|Ideas for a Middle/High School Class Involving a CO2 Laser Cutter/Engraver]] ====

=== Projects: ===

=== Products: ===
* A device or Amazon Alexa skill that can be run at a dentist office to listen to drill/suction noise in one room, then invert it and playback in another room to create destructive interference and cancel out the noise.

User:Leebc

2025-01-27T21:56:38Z

Leebc:

== About me ==

=== What I Make ===

=== Classes I Teach ===

* None.

'''Classes I could be talked into teaching if there is enough explicit interest:'''
* "Designing laser-cuttable model buildings for D&D, railroad, and other miniatures terrain"
* "Introduction to pottery: Pinch pots, coil pots, and slab pots" (This may be 2 or 3 separate classes.
* "Designing 3d printable furniture in OpenSCAD"
* "A method for creating UV maps/textures for 3d models for use in Unity3d"
*

=== Interests ===
* MAPS!
* Laser cutting flat things and turning into 3d things
* Visualizing strange data

=== Slack Channels I post in ===

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C64QUN85R #astronomy]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CENRLHAE6 #spacetech]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C17029YC9 #sewing-and-textiles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0259RYHBDY #kilns]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CJQ9YPFJ4 #cosplay]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0419EWAEJ2 #3d-modeling]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C01MJUQS3F0 #science-articles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C6TRESTC7 #VR]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C026U6Z3E7R #random-bryan-shares]

== Some of my projects ==
=== Maps! ===
[[File:CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay.jpg|thumb|CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay]]

=== Laser cut DOMES! ===

== Research ==

=== Lasercut Frames ===
'''Some collected thoughts on laser-cutting picture frame'''

'''Asked in slack and on facebook:'''
* Does anyone have any thoughts on finishing laser-cut picture frames?
* I could cut multiple parts out of 1/8th" or 1/16th" material and glue together, but my real concern and question is about finishing the edges.
* MDF or acrylic would have a clean edge, and the whole thing could be painted... but what if you were using 1/8" or 1/4" plywood?
* Can you think of a material that would be better for picture frames?
* How hard is it to work with a stick-on veneer?
* What kind of paint?

'''Some suggestions include:'''
* vinyl wrap the frame
* "Cheaper material like Plywood could get cleaned up with some of the same techniques and materials as 3d printed parts, Water putty/spot putty to fill in voids and then sand able primer and you can get a very clean surface to paint to get the same finish as solid wood parts."
* Another suggestion is to laser-cut a bevel using a jig. This should work if the frame pieces are thin enough and narrow enough.
* Acrylic mirror could be really nice.
* I love stick on veneer. I laser cut it and use it with finished plywood in layers. I just make sure to laser myself a template on the bottom layer because it’s really hard to line stuff up without it. I also like the look of veneer on top of acrylic too.
* Otherwise I feel like a [beveled] edge is really a nice finish for frames if you have the tools. So I would probably do that then paint/stain, spray with the triple thick clear topcoat (sand in between coats) if I want the grain or maybe top it with a thin layer of resin if not. I’m kinda addicted to how easy and quick UV resin is but regular resin would be so quick if you had several to do.
* It's not really a frame. The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.



'''Acrylic mirror:'''
* Could make a mirror by cutting a back plate of mirrored acrylic, then acrylic cement or CA glue on some black or white strips of acrylic like this <image>. Maybe put some round or shaped holes in them so the mirror...uh... mirrors through.
* Or could paint the black & white on using masking as a template or use a thin veneer so the mirror isn’t too shadowed
* Acrylic frame with mirrored edges (black background) <other image>
[[File:313353003 5725989027439741 246525687503688386 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|left|alt=The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.]]
[[File:312977638 5725916744113636 7646024862373953283 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|alt=Acrylic mirror example. mirrored back with cur acrylic pieces to attach on top of the mirror at the edges]]
[[File:Acrylic picture frame example 1.jpg|50:50px|thumb|none|alt=An example of an acrylic picture frame|An example of an acrylic picture frame]]

=== Living Hinges ===

=== Make Your Own Lightsaber Handle from PVC ===
[[PVC Lightsaber Class]]

== Class/Project/Product ideas you're welcome to use ==

Classes:

=== Ideas for a Middle/High School Class Involving a CO2 laser cutter/engraver ===

Projects:

Products:
* A device or Amazon Alexa skill that can be run at a dentist office to listen to drill/suction noise in one room, then invert it and playback in another room to create destructive interference and cancel out the noise.

Tools: Universal M360 Laser Cutter

2025-01-06T17:02:11Z

Leebc: /* My job didn't cut */

[[File:m360.jpg|250px|thumb|right|M360 Laser Cutter]]

The Universal <noinclude>M360</noinclude> <includeonly>PLS6.75</includeonly> is a flexible tool for precise cutting and etching of flat materials like acrylic plastic and thin wood.

Use of the laser cutter requires the certification class.

'''If you are unsure about any aspect of laser cutter operation, cleaning, or maintenance, please ask for help in the [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''


== Tool Description ==
Universal Laser Cutter Model <noinclude>M360-60</noinclude> <includeonly>PLS6.75</includeonly>
* 60 Watt CO2 laser.
* <noinclude>24” x 12” (609.6 x 304.8mm)</noinclude> <includeonly>32" x 18" (813 x 457mm)</includeonly> cut bed.
* Flat Cutting Table or removable Honeycomb Cutting Table.
* High speed ventilation system for evacuation of fumes and particulates during cutting.
* CorelDraw
* Uses custom Windows print driver to specify laser intensities.
* Raster and Vector modes.
* 16 MB standard memory buffer.

== Safety ==

Do not operate the laser cutter without taking the class. Do not allow others to use the laser cutter unsupervised without ensuring that they have taken the class.

'''Always''' wear safety glasses while watching the laser cutter operate. These are the laser-specific dark safety glasses near the laser cutter. Clear or dark-tinted safety glasses, sunglasses, etc. are not adequate protection. The laser used for cutting / etching is not visible to the human eye but can cause significant damage to the eye.

'''Always''' use the ventilation fan. This is turned on via a power strip on the table. Leave the ventilation fan running for some time after completing your work to draw smoke and other gases out of the space. Please turn off the ventilation fan when not in use to keep air conditioning costs down. Notify us immediately if the ventilation fan seems weaker than usual.

'''Always''' supervise the laser cutter while in operation. The risk of fire varies by material but is always there.

Be considerate of others using the space. If possible, ''please'' refrain from operating the laser cutter during or immediately before a class or other Meetup due to noise and smell.

'''Note:''' The person operating the laser cutter is responsible for ensuring the safety of others in the area. Visitors, guests, and even other members may not know proper safety procedures. Ensure that they do not watch the laser operate without safety glasses.

Be aware of the nearest fire extinguishers:

* One just to the right of the laser-cutter
* One just inside kitchen
* One by front door

== Materials (what to use, and not use, it on) ==

There are a wide variety of materials that are safe to cut and etch.

=== '''Unsafe''' Materials to Cut or Etch ===

'''Never''' cut or etch these materials. Most of these will produce toxic gases when heated.

Note that many manufactured items that seem like good candidates for etching are made of PVC.

Note that it can be quite difficult to tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic plastics. If nothing else, a small test etch or cut will help determine which plastic the item is made from.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#NEVER_CUT_THESE_MATERIALS ATX HackerSpace].

* PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
* Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
* ABS
* HDPE/milk bottle plastic
* PolyStyrene Foam
* PolyPropylene Foam
* Fiberglass
* Coated Carbon Fiber
* Teflon (PTFE)
* Chrome-tanned Leather

=== Safe Materials to Cut ===

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Cutting ATX HackerSpace].

* Many woods (successfully used at THS)
* Plywood/Composite woods (successfully used at THS)
* MDF/Engineered woods
* Paper, card stock (successfully used at THS)
* Marshmallows (successfully used at THS)
* Cardboard, carton (Thick cardboard will burn - the pockets are protected from the exhaust fan and air assist and will sustain a flame) (successfully used at THS)
* Cork
* Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA (acrylic successfully used at THS)
* Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
* Delrin (POM)
* Kapton tape (Polyimide)
* Mylar
* Solid Styrene
* Depron foam
* Gator foam
* EVA foam (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam ULS])
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton
* Leather/Suede (ONLY veg-tan leather. NEVER cut or etch chrome-tan leathers)
* Magnetic Sheet
* NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber
* Neoprene rubber (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/neoprene-rubber ULS])
* Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not had epoxy applied
* Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
* Chocolate (successfully used at THS)
* Worbla is reportedly safe to cut ( [https://www.worbla.com/?page_id=7425 Worbla.com] )

=== Safe Materials to Etch ===

Some materials can't be cut, but can be lightly etched.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Etching From ATX HackerSpace].

* Most of the above "cut-safe" materials
* Glass
* Ceramic tile
* Anodized aluminum (Read special instructions for this material)
* Painted/coated metals (Read special instructions for this material)
* Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx. (Read special instructions for this material) (successfully used at THS)

=== Selecting Materials ===

* [http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/ Identifying unknown plastics (link)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Extruded vs. Cast Acrylic]

* Materials thicker than about 1/4 inch (6mm) may not cut cleanly through due to how/where the laser beam point focuses

* Using the laser on chrome-tanned leather will produce cyanide gas. Veg-tanned leather is safe to use at THS. Refer to [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6w485PtivLE this video] for more information on chrome vs. veg-tanned leather.

=== Materials Available at the Space ===

We do not currently resell materials for use with the laser cutter.

We keep a steady supply of scrap 1/4 inch plywood and acrylic sheet at the space for free use. Please donate any useful scraps and dispose of pieces that are too small to be used.

There are a number of donated pieces of other plastics, some tiles, etc. kept near the laser cutter for free use. Be aware that some of this plastic may be polycarbonate or other materials.

<s>We have a good amount of donated matte board (scraps from framing art) that cuts well. It is kept in a lateral file below the office supplies.</s> We would love a donation of matte board.

=== Where to buy acrylic ===
* [http://www.farcoplastics.com/ Farco Plastics Supply] (in Clearwater) Recommended by a few of our members.
* [http://www.plasticsamerica.com/ Plastics America] (out towards Brandon.) "They price by the square foot and charge a single cut fee per order so you benefit from buying in quantity. Buying one or two pieces from them can get expensive. I think I recall the cut fee being $12ish." -- Bill
* [http://www.delviesplastics.com/ Delvie's Plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.estreetplastics.com/ e street plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.ceruleantides.com/ Cerulean Tides] (Ft. Lauderdale) "Ships same day via UPS", is usually at my door the next day."
* [https://www.engraving-supplies.com/ Trotec / engraving-supplies.com] (on line, also carries wood)

=== Where to buy wood ===

Home Depot and Lowes sell 1/4" (and some other thicknesses) plywood as "project panel" / "luan" (cheap but often has knots in middle layers that may need multiple passes or a knife/saw to cut through)

Michaels, Joann's, Blick, and others carry Midwest Products birch plywood (not cheap but look for Joann's coupons)

[https://www.cardsofwood.com/product/wood-panels/ Cards of Wood]

[https://aircraftplywood.com/products/ Aircraft Plywood] (recommended by [https://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/blog/?p=6042 Nervous Systems])

Also see: [https://wiki.tampahackerspace.com/Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood '''Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood''']

== Tool Use ==
'''M360, normal use'''
* Videos: We have videos uploaded instructing on [https://youtu.be/hCUCX2dZWiU](removing/installing air assist cone) and [https://youtu.be/WrXSZ3RTzKs](setting the z-height)
* '''Check lens. If you have been trained in lens cleaning, Clean only if necessary (see '''Maintenance''' section below for procedures)'''
* Create a new document in CorelDraw that is 24"Wx12"H
* Load SVG or create design. Use only the 8 supported colors.
* "Print" design
** Before clicking "OK" to print, go to "Preferences" and set appropriate values for each color.
** Review information from the class on how to do this.
** Review Laser Cutter documentation and log book for what settings to use.
* Turn on the exhaust fan.
* Power on Laser Cutter.
* If air assist nozzle is installed, turn on its air
* Put masking on your material to reduce scorching. <s>(We have a large roll of self-adhesive masking in the Laser Cutter work area.)</s>
* Place material on the cut bed.
* Set the Z-axis height and return the focus alignment tool to it's storage location.
* Close all Laser Cutter doors.
* Press "Next ==>" on the laser cutter control panel to use the most recently printed file.
* Double check your work.
* Press "Start".
* '''Never leave the Laser Cutter unattended!'''
* When done, turn off exhaust fan, and air assist (if applicable)
* ''Write a short entry about your print job in the Log Book about who, when, what you cut, what settings you used, and the cut duration.''

Note: There are slight differences to this procedure when using the rotary attachment

== Software ==

=== Corel Draw ===
[https://www.coreldraw.com Corel Draw] [https://www.genesis-technologies.com/coreldraw-graphics-suite-2021-for-windows-download.html 2021 (Academic and Non-Profit)] is provided on the Laser Engraver workstation. The about page reports Version 23.1.0.389. It is used for job layout, as well as building vector (and other) images for cutting.

=== Inkscape ===

[https://inkscape.org/en/ Inkscape] is a free Open Source vector graphics editor that you can use to get used to the overall concept of vector based graphics design. However, be aware that there are certain issues you must face when transferring your design to the laser printer.

Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw using SVG format, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%. PDF and certain other formats do not suffer from this problem and are the preferred method of import.

''Note: As of Inkscape 0.92 the default resolution has been changed to 96dpi to match the CSS standard and now matches that of CorelDraw. The information on scaling may be needed only if using an older version of Inkscape.''

See [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Using_Inkscape_with_the_Laser_Cutter this guide] by the ATX Hackerspace for help.

=== Adobe Illustrator ===
Illustrator could be used, but specifics haven't been documented here.

=== [[Software:_Slicer_for_Fusion_360|Slicer for Fusion360]] ===
{{:Software:_Slicer_for_Fusion_360}}

=== Other ===
There are others, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_vector_graphics_editors

== Tips and Tricks ==

Since the terms are used repeatedly used in this document, here's [http://vector-conversions.com/vectorizing/raster_vs_vector.html the difference] between [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics Raster] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics Vector] images.

=== Design tips from the first class ===
* Set your page size to 24"W x 12"H.
* Placing your image at the top left corner cuts it from the top left corner.
* Keep a 1/8" margin in case the laser (or bed, or material) is slightly out of alignment.
* Vector cuts should use line widths of 0.001" or hairline. Anything wider than 0.005" will be rasterized and not cut the way you expect. You can draw with wider lines and reset them before printing in CorelDraw using "Select All" then "Object" --> "Fill And Stroke" to reset all lines to 0.001".
* Draw your "cut" lines in red, and "etch" lines in blue or green. Anything you want to rasterize should be in monochrome/greyscale. (Advanced users can use more colors for more things...but if you know enough to do this, then you don't need to be told how.)
* Lines with colors not set to 255 for any RGB value or less than 100% opacity will be treated as black and rasterized or worse, ignored, by the print driver.[SIC] Don't use color models other than RGB.
* '''Problem''': I created an SVG in Inkscape but when I import it into CorelDraw it's the wrong size. --- Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%

=== Other tips members have learned ===

* CorelDraw lets you do math inside the size entry fields. For example, if you have a Width that is 4.228 in, you can append to that "+1.25" and CorelDraw will change the value to 5.478 in. Furthermore, you can enter values in either "standard" or metric units and CorelDraw will recalculate the value in the document's default units. For example: if the document is set to inches and you entered "65mm" CorelDraw will do the calculation and set the value to 2.5590 inches.

* If you realize you forgot to turn on the vent, you should quickly turn on the vent! But it's better to not forget to turn it on in the first place.

* It may be helpful to use the restroom/get a drink/stretch/etc before starting a particular long (complex) job. DO NOT leave laser cutter unattended while cutting or etching.

* You can use scrap material (pieces that have already been cut) to test out a design, or for a finished piece if it is the right size. There is a bin of "scrap material" kept near the laser cutter.

* Etching a large section of thin acrylic will cause warping.

* If you are etching an oddly shaped and curved surface (for example a pumpkin), try setting the Z-height to the "median" (middle) height you are etching.

* Refer to the following table for spot sizes (the width of the cut, or "kerf") and focal ranges of the lenses available. (Note: The Tampa Hackerspace only has the 2.0 lens, the others are presented for completeness.)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| FOCAL LENGTH
| SPOT SIZE
| FOCAL RANGE
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 1.5 “
| .003 “
| + / - .075 “
|-
| 2.0 “
| .005 “
| + / - .100 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 2.5 “
| .007 “
| + / - .125 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 4.0 “
| .013 “
| + / - .200 “
|}

* You can use the "pointer" mode to "proof" a design. If the any of the doors are open, the red light on the control panel will flash. If you press "Start" to run your job in this state, the job will begin and will trace out the entire design, HOWEVER, the standard invisible CO2 laser will be replaced with a red pointer dot (laser diode). This will let you test your layout and will calculate the job time. Be careful though, the red dot will be close, but not exactly where the laser will cut.

* You can use the X-Y mode to find positions on the print bed. Press the "X-Y" button and use the arrow pad to move the red pointer. The LCD displays the current x,y coordinates under the pointer. These coordinates can be used to position a work piece, and the values entered into CorelDraw. Use the up-down arrows and "Select" to choose "Re-home pointer" when finished. (Check the manual, linked below, for a more through explanation.)

* After the first time a job is run (including "pointer" test run mentioned above), during subsequent runs of the same job the control panel timer will change from a "count-up" timer to a "count-down" timer, telling you how much time remains on your job.

* You can press the "Pause" button on the control panel to pause your job. The laser cutter will finish the current line, then return the head to home. If it's in the middle of a raster, this will happen almost immediately, BUT if it's in the middle of a long cut line, the line will finish first. This may take several seconds. Your job can be resumed where it left off by pressing the "Resume" button. There may be a slight offset when resuming a job, especially if the system was in the middle of a raster. "Wait for the motion system to stop and move to the home position before opening any door otherwise the laser beam will not resume from the position it stopped at."

* Rastering an image on a full 24"x12" (width x height) piece of wood at the recommended settings of [Power 100, Speed 59, 500PPI ] will take 45-55 minutes. On a 24"x6" board, it will take about half that time. On a 12"x12" board, it will take about 10% less time than the full 24", so 40-50 minutes. For fastest raster time, orient your image so the longest dimension is aligned with the X axis.

=== Photo-quality raster images ===
'''Photo-quality raster images can be etched''' on material at high DPI(dots-per-inch)/PPI(pulses-per-inch). For example at 500 PPI on Acrylic.
* Open your image in [http://www.gimp.org/ The GIMP] or another program capable of editing photos. (CorelDraw doesn't support all the features we need.)
In GIMP:
* Click on "Image" --> "Mode" --> "Grayscale" to convert color to greyscale.
* Click on "Image" --> "Print Size" and set the X and Y Resolutions to the desired value (500 pixels/in).
* If you want to invert the grays (change black to white and white to black), click on "Colors" --> "Invert". The black portions are what will be etched. I recommend etching less instead of more; etching a large section of acrylic black will cause warping.
* If you need to adjust the gray levels, you can tweak the values using:
** "Colors" --> "Levels" OR
** "Colors" --> "Curves", You'll have to play around with these settings.
* Save your image with a new name and as a JPG or PNG.

=== Cleaning Acrylic Cuts ===

* Do not clean laser-cut acrylic with alcohol. "There is residual stress in a laser cut edge. The solvent breaks bonds and lets the plastic release the stress by cracking."--Wesley Faler.
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU9Ty0L0g7E What happens when you put alcohol on acrylic (short video)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Ammonia / Windex is also not recommended for cleaning]

* For masking paper adhesive residue, some (untested) suggestions are Goo Gone, WD-40, mineral oil, naptha, or even cooking oil

=== Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver ===
You can use the machine to directly measure on your material. See [[Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver]].

== Common Problems ==

=== My job didn't cut ===
'''Problem''': My design is in CorelDraw but all or a portion didn't cut, or the error message "'''The printed document contains no data.'''"

Some causes of this include:
* The line thickness was not set to "hairline" or 0.001" inches and was ignored. (This color set to only "Vector" cut.)
* The line color is not one of the basic colors supported and was ignored.
* Driver setting for this chosen color set to "Skip".
* Driver set incorrectly to "Raster" or incorrectly to "Vector".
* Driver power level set to 0.
* Design is outside the 24" by 12" cut area.
* Design has transparency. This may manifest as vector lines rastering instead. Select the offending lines and set to "No Transparency" in the Object Properties.
* If a CorelDraw document has multiple pages (see tabs at bottom of Corel window) and you print "Current Document" then each page will be sent to the laser engraver as a SEPARATE job. If a page is blank, it will STILL be sent, and will show up as a 0 power 0 speed job. Press the "Next >>" button to skip that blank job. NOTE: this may cause difficulty managing multiple jobs on the laser engraver, so avoid this situation by not printing blank pages.

=== My cut or etch isn't deep enough ===
'''Problem''': My cut or etch isn't deep enough.

Without moving anything or changing any settings, you can press "Start" again and the exact same job will be run a second time, cutting in the exact same places if the work piece hasn't been moved. If your material is too thick, the laser may not be focused correctly to cut all the way through. You might be able to fix this by adjusting the Z-axis slightly lower.

== Maintenance ==

'''Refer maintenance to qualified personnel. If no qualified personal are on-site, post in [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0H6JEBK6 #broken] and/or [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''

'''Lens'''
See [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/team/leebc Bryan Lee] for training on lens cleaning procedure. Otherwise, follow [https://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=YiN3J2WShQY this procedure].

''Maintenance Schedule and Summary'' (From the manual)

Since the maintenance requirements of the laser system is dependent on the type of material being run, the quantity of material being removed, the hours of operation, and the quality of the exhaust blower, it must be user defined. As a starting point, we recommend the following schedule:
* '''As necessary'''
** ''Engraving table'' -- soap solution, or alcohol or acetone, and paper towels.
** ''Main enclosure'' -- vacuum loose debris. Use soft cloth or paper towels and the soap solution to clean the enclosure.
** ''Top door window'' -- cotton cloth and the soap solution. The top window is made out of acrylic. DO NOT use paper towels because they will scratch the acrylic. Also, DO NOT use window cleaner, alcohol, or acetone, as these chemicals will crack the acrylic. Only use cleaners compatible with acrylic.
* '''Every 8 hours of engraving''' -- Turn off and unplug the laser system.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis rails and bearing tracks'' -- cotton swabs or paper towels, and alcohol or soap solution.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis bearings'' -- After the rails and tracks are cleaned, use a clean swab or paper towel, and alcohol to clean all of the bearings by holding the swab against each bearing and moving the motion system by hand to roll the bearings against the swab. There are seven bearings in the system, three (3) on the focus carriage, two (2) on the left side of the X-rail, and two (2) on the right side of the X-rail.
** ''Clean X-axis belt''.
** ''Check beam window, #2 mirror, #3 mirror, and focus lens for debris''. Clean ONLY if dirty. Do not clean immediately after use, optics will be hot. -- Refer this step to trained personal.

* '''Every month'''
** ''Clean cooling fan filters'' -- Wash the element in a soap and water solution, dry, and re-install. If scheduling prevents filters from being washed and dried, use a dust buster to carefully vacuum dust off the filters. Be certain to replace them with the same side out that they were removed.
** ''Clean and re-lubricate Z-axis lead screws'' -- The only lubrication that may be required [on the entire laser system] is the screw threads for the table lifting mechanism. After some time, contaminants can adhere to the lubricant, which can cause the engraving table to bind up or sound squeaky. If this is the case, wipe off the contaminated grease with a soft cloth dampened with alcohol and apply fresh white lithium grease to the screw threads. NEVER SPRAY ANY DEGREASING SOLUTIONS DIRECTLY ONTO THE THREADS. Run the table up and down to work in the fresh grease. Repeat if necessary.
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis belt wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Check and/or clean X-axis and Y-axis drive gears''
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis bearing wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Inspect system for loose screws and mechanical parts'' – tighten if necessary

* '''Every 6 months'''
** ''Exhaust plenum'' -- Remove it from the system. Using your soap and water solution, clean the inside of plenum as well as the inside rear wall of the Laser System.
** ''Blower fan'' -- Check blower fan screen for loose cut material (cardboard) that may have been sucked through the exhaust system and be restricting air flow.
** ''"Bucket" Filter Cleaning'' -- Cleaning is simply a matter of stabilizing the buckets so they don't twist, unscrew the top bucket's lid, remove the filter material, take it outside and clean, dry it, refold it (air must pass through 4 layers), reinsert it. The screen on the exhaust side can be removed, and cleaned. Soaking and/or brushing may be necessary. The other screen can not be removed. When done, and screw the top on.
*** The purpose of the exhaust filter is to reduce material passing through the exhaust blower "in the attic". The blowers were getting gunked up and needed to be exchanged every 6 months or so. We attempted to use a cyclonic system last year, but it did not allow enough airflow.
*** The current setup draws air from the enclosure, through a 4 inch flexible metal duct and into the bottom bucket. When air enters the bottom bucket, the volume expands, slowing the airflow (but not the total volume, cubic feet/minute). The flow impacts a baffle and some particles should stop moving and ultimately fall. The airflow changes direction several times, which should stop more particulates. The air enters the upper bucket and passes through the filter material, catching even more particulates. There's a perforated metal panel the air goes through, then up the stack into the blower, then up another stack out the vent in the roof.
*** Flow problems can happen if the hoses get kinked or excessively dirty inside.

== Related Links ==

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2Z051TVVwaldaUGM&authuser=0 Safety Warnings]

* [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX HackerSpace's list of Laser Cutter Materials]

* [https://festi.info/boxes.py/ Boxes.py] Generate SVGs for boxes. Includes boxes with FLEXIBLE, curved sides. Many output formats are available, use svg or pdf, and avoid dxf as it seems to add unnecessary vectors.

* [http://boxmaker.connectionlab.org/ Box Maker]

* [http://www.makercase.com/ MakerCase]

* [https://www.remove.bg/ Remove Image Background]

* [https://polygonia.design/ Rapidly Create Symmetrical Designs for Manufacturing]

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ED_C4HDdXj8 Youtube video] of #sketchup plugin by Eneroth for #laser-engraver cutting and box-making. Brett Freeman writes: "Start sketchup and go to Extensions Warehouse. Search for Eneroth Laser tools. Click when you select it and then click Install."

* <noinclude>[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DYNPk58hrpItedoqooGeMAFEw2Fem7AQ Universal Laser M360 Manual]</noinclude> <includeonly>[https://me.berkeley.edu/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Universal-PLS6.150D-Laser-Manual.pdf PLS6.75 Manual]</includeonly>

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ioIpMk8M7658dY5rWBMrSJOM7g9V62d0 Cleaning tips from Epilog Laser]

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2MGExMF9OSnppZWc&authuser=0 Orientation Slide Deck]

* [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam Universal Laser's writeup on EVA foam]

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html Cardstock and Corrugated Boxes]

* [http://www.templatemaker.nl/ Free custom paper templates]

* [http://image.online-convert.com/ Online Image Converter]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/ Engraving Systems Support, whom THS bought our laser cutter from]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/equipment-support/universal-laser-systems-support/ ESS Support, search for M360]

* [http://parts.engravingsys.com/MVX-Laser-Parts Replacement Parts and Accessories]

* [https://github.com/vanillabox/OpenSCADBoxes OpenSCAD generated flex/living-hinge boxes]

* [https://3axis.co Free Vectors for Laser Cutting]

[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Fabrication]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

Tools: Universal M360 Laser Cutter

2025-01-06T16:53:39Z

Leebc: /* Tool Use */

[[File:m360.jpg|250px|thumb|right|M360 Laser Cutter]]

The Universal <noinclude>M360</noinclude> <includeonly>PLS6.75</includeonly> is a flexible tool for precise cutting and etching of flat materials like acrylic plastic and thin wood.

Use of the laser cutter requires the certification class.

'''If you are unsure about any aspect of laser cutter operation, cleaning, or maintenance, please ask for help in the [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''


== Tool Description ==
Universal Laser Cutter Model <noinclude>M360-60</noinclude> <includeonly>PLS6.75</includeonly>
* 60 Watt CO2 laser.
* <noinclude>24” x 12” (609.6 x 304.8mm)</noinclude> <includeonly>32" x 18" (813 x 457mm)</includeonly> cut bed.
* Flat Cutting Table or removable Honeycomb Cutting Table.
* High speed ventilation system for evacuation of fumes and particulates during cutting.
* CorelDraw
* Uses custom Windows print driver to specify laser intensities.
* Raster and Vector modes.
* 16 MB standard memory buffer.

== Safety ==

Do not operate the laser cutter without taking the class. Do not allow others to use the laser cutter unsupervised without ensuring that they have taken the class.

'''Always''' wear safety glasses while watching the laser cutter operate. These are the laser-specific dark safety glasses near the laser cutter. Clear or dark-tinted safety glasses, sunglasses, etc. are not adequate protection. The laser used for cutting / etching is not visible to the human eye but can cause significant damage to the eye.

'''Always''' use the ventilation fan. This is turned on via a power strip on the table. Leave the ventilation fan running for some time after completing your work to draw smoke and other gases out of the space. Please turn off the ventilation fan when not in use to keep air conditioning costs down. Notify us immediately if the ventilation fan seems weaker than usual.

'''Always''' supervise the laser cutter while in operation. The risk of fire varies by material but is always there.

Be considerate of others using the space. If possible, ''please'' refrain from operating the laser cutter during or immediately before a class or other Meetup due to noise and smell.

'''Note:''' The person operating the laser cutter is responsible for ensuring the safety of others in the area. Visitors, guests, and even other members may not know proper safety procedures. Ensure that they do not watch the laser operate without safety glasses.

Be aware of the nearest fire extinguishers:

* One just to the right of the laser-cutter
* One just inside kitchen
* One by front door

== Materials (what to use, and not use, it on) ==

There are a wide variety of materials that are safe to cut and etch.

=== '''Unsafe''' Materials to Cut or Etch ===

'''Never''' cut or etch these materials. Most of these will produce toxic gases when heated.

Note that many manufactured items that seem like good candidates for etching are made of PVC.

Note that it can be quite difficult to tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic plastics. If nothing else, a small test etch or cut will help determine which plastic the item is made from.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#NEVER_CUT_THESE_MATERIALS ATX HackerSpace].

* PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
* Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
* ABS
* HDPE/milk bottle plastic
* PolyStyrene Foam
* PolyPropylene Foam
* Fiberglass
* Coated Carbon Fiber
* Teflon (PTFE)
* Chrome-tanned Leather

=== Safe Materials to Cut ===

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Cutting ATX HackerSpace].

* Many woods (successfully used at THS)
* Plywood/Composite woods (successfully used at THS)
* MDF/Engineered woods
* Paper, card stock (successfully used at THS)
* Marshmallows (successfully used at THS)
* Cardboard, carton (Thick cardboard will burn - the pockets are protected from the exhaust fan and air assist and will sustain a flame) (successfully used at THS)
* Cork
* Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA (acrylic successfully used at THS)
* Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
* Delrin (POM)
* Kapton tape (Polyimide)
* Mylar
* Solid Styrene
* Depron foam
* Gator foam
* EVA foam (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam ULS])
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton
* Leather/Suede (ONLY veg-tan leather. NEVER cut or etch chrome-tan leathers)
* Magnetic Sheet
* NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber
* Neoprene rubber (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/neoprene-rubber ULS])
* Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not had epoxy applied
* Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
* Chocolate (successfully used at THS)
* Worbla is reportedly safe to cut ( [https://www.worbla.com/?page_id=7425 Worbla.com] )

=== Safe Materials to Etch ===

Some materials can't be cut, but can be lightly etched.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Etching From ATX HackerSpace].

* Most of the above "cut-safe" materials
* Glass
* Ceramic tile
* Anodized aluminum (Read special instructions for this material)
* Painted/coated metals (Read special instructions for this material)
* Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx. (Read special instructions for this material) (successfully used at THS)

=== Selecting Materials ===

* [http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/ Identifying unknown plastics (link)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Extruded vs. Cast Acrylic]

* Materials thicker than about 1/4 inch (6mm) may not cut cleanly through due to how/where the laser beam point focuses

* Using the laser on chrome-tanned leather will produce cyanide gas. Veg-tanned leather is safe to use at THS. Refer to [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6w485PtivLE this video] for more information on chrome vs. veg-tanned leather.

=== Materials Available at the Space ===

We do not currently resell materials for use with the laser cutter.

We keep a steady supply of scrap 1/4 inch plywood and acrylic sheet at the space for free use. Please donate any useful scraps and dispose of pieces that are too small to be used.

There are a number of donated pieces of other plastics, some tiles, etc. kept near the laser cutter for free use. Be aware that some of this plastic may be polycarbonate or other materials.

<s>We have a good amount of donated matte board (scraps from framing art) that cuts well. It is kept in a lateral file below the office supplies.</s> We would love a donation of matte board.

=== Where to buy acrylic ===
* [http://www.farcoplastics.com/ Farco Plastics Supply] (in Clearwater) Recommended by a few of our members.
* [http://www.plasticsamerica.com/ Plastics America] (out towards Brandon.) "They price by the square foot and charge a single cut fee per order so you benefit from buying in quantity. Buying one or two pieces from them can get expensive. I think I recall the cut fee being $12ish." -- Bill
* [http://www.delviesplastics.com/ Delvie's Plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.estreetplastics.com/ e street plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.ceruleantides.com/ Cerulean Tides] (Ft. Lauderdale) "Ships same day via UPS", is usually at my door the next day."
* [https://www.engraving-supplies.com/ Trotec / engraving-supplies.com] (on line, also carries wood)

=== Where to buy wood ===

Home Depot and Lowes sell 1/4" (and some other thicknesses) plywood as "project panel" / "luan" (cheap but often has knots in middle layers that may need multiple passes or a knife/saw to cut through)

Michaels, Joann's, Blick, and others carry Midwest Products birch plywood (not cheap but look for Joann's coupons)

[https://www.cardsofwood.com/product/wood-panels/ Cards of Wood]

[https://aircraftplywood.com/products/ Aircraft Plywood] (recommended by [https://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/blog/?p=6042 Nervous Systems])

Also see: [https://wiki.tampahackerspace.com/Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood '''Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood''']

== Tool Use ==
'''M360, normal use'''
* Videos: We have videos uploaded instructing on [https://youtu.be/hCUCX2dZWiU](removing/installing air assist cone) and [https://youtu.be/WrXSZ3RTzKs](setting the z-height)
* '''Check lens. If you have been trained in lens cleaning, Clean only if necessary (see '''Maintenance''' section below for procedures)'''
* Create a new document in CorelDraw that is 24"Wx12"H
* Load SVG or create design. Use only the 8 supported colors.
* "Print" design
** Before clicking "OK" to print, go to "Preferences" and set appropriate values for each color.
** Review information from the class on how to do this.
** Review Laser Cutter documentation and log book for what settings to use.
* Turn on the exhaust fan.
* Power on Laser Cutter.
* If air assist nozzle is installed, turn on its air
* Put masking on your material to reduce scorching. <s>(We have a large roll of self-adhesive masking in the Laser Cutter work area.)</s>
* Place material on the cut bed.
* Set the Z-axis height and return the focus alignment tool to it's storage location.
* Close all Laser Cutter doors.
* Press "Next ==>" on the laser cutter control panel to use the most recently printed file.
* Double check your work.
* Press "Start".
* '''Never leave the Laser Cutter unattended!'''
* When done, turn off exhaust fan, and air assist (if applicable)
* ''Write a short entry about your print job in the Log Book about who, when, what you cut, what settings you used, and the cut duration.''

Note: There are slight differences to this procedure when using the rotary attachment

== Software ==

=== Corel Draw ===
[https://www.coreldraw.com Corel Draw] [https://www.genesis-technologies.com/coreldraw-graphics-suite-2021-for-windows-download.html 2021 (Academic and Non-Profit)] is provided on the Laser Engraver workstation. The about page reports Version 23.1.0.389. It is used for job layout, as well as building vector (and other) images for cutting.

=== Inkscape ===

[https://inkscape.org/en/ Inkscape] is a free Open Source vector graphics editor that you can use to get used to the overall concept of vector based graphics design. However, be aware that there are certain issues you must face when transferring your design to the laser printer.

Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw using SVG format, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%. PDF and certain other formats do not suffer from this problem and are the preferred method of import.

''Note: As of Inkscape 0.92 the default resolution has been changed to 96dpi to match the CSS standard and now matches that of CorelDraw. The information on scaling may be needed only if using an older version of Inkscape.''

See [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Using_Inkscape_with_the_Laser_Cutter this guide] by the ATX Hackerspace for help.

=== Adobe Illustrator ===
Illustrator could be used, but specifics haven't been documented here.

=== [[Software:_Slicer_for_Fusion_360|Slicer for Fusion360]] ===
{{:Software:_Slicer_for_Fusion_360}}

=== Other ===
There are others, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_vector_graphics_editors

== Tips and Tricks ==

Since the terms are used repeatedly used in this document, here's [http://vector-conversions.com/vectorizing/raster_vs_vector.html the difference] between [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics Raster] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics Vector] images.

=== Design tips from the first class ===
* Set your page size to 24"W x 12"H.
* Placing your image at the top left corner cuts it from the top left corner.
* Keep a 1/8" margin in case the laser (or bed, or material) is slightly out of alignment.
* Vector cuts should use line widths of 0.001" or hairline. Anything wider than 0.005" will be rasterized and not cut the way you expect. You can draw with wider lines and reset them before printing in CorelDraw using "Select All" then "Object" --> "Fill And Stroke" to reset all lines to 0.001".
* Draw your "cut" lines in red, and "etch" lines in blue or green. Anything you want to rasterize should be in monochrome/greyscale. (Advanced users can use more colors for more things...but if you know enough to do this, then you don't need to be told how.)
* Lines with colors not set to 255 for any RGB value or less than 100% opacity will be treated as black and rasterized or worse, ignored, by the print driver.[SIC] Don't use color models other than RGB.
* '''Problem''': I created an SVG in Inkscape but when I import it into CorelDraw it's the wrong size. --- Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%

=== Other tips members have learned ===

* CorelDraw lets you do math inside the size entry fields. For example, if you have a Width that is 4.228 in, you can append to that "+1.25" and CorelDraw will change the value to 5.478 in. Furthermore, you can enter values in either "standard" or metric units and CorelDraw will recalculate the value in the document's default units. For example: if the document is set to inches and you entered "65mm" CorelDraw will do the calculation and set the value to 2.5590 inches.

* If you realize you forgot to turn on the vent, you should quickly turn on the vent! But it's better to not forget to turn it on in the first place.

* It may be helpful to use the restroom/get a drink/stretch/etc before starting a particular long (complex) job. DO NOT leave laser cutter unattended while cutting or etching.

* You can use scrap material (pieces that have already been cut) to test out a design, or for a finished piece if it is the right size. There is a bin of "scrap material" kept near the laser cutter.

* Etching a large section of thin acrylic will cause warping.

* If you are etching an oddly shaped and curved surface (for example a pumpkin), try setting the Z-height to the "median" (middle) height you are etching.

* Refer to the following table for spot sizes (the width of the cut, or "kerf") and focal ranges of the lenses available. (Note: The Tampa Hackerspace only has the 2.0 lens, the others are presented for completeness.)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| FOCAL LENGTH
| SPOT SIZE
| FOCAL RANGE
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 1.5 “
| .003 “
| + / - .075 “
|-
| 2.0 “
| .005 “
| + / - .100 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 2.5 “
| .007 “
| + / - .125 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 4.0 “
| .013 “
| + / - .200 “
|}

* You can use the "pointer" mode to "proof" a design. If the any of the doors are open, the red light on the control panel will flash. If you press "Start" to run your job in this state, the job will begin and will trace out the entire design, HOWEVER, the standard invisible CO2 laser will be replaced with a red pointer dot (laser diode). This will let you test your layout and will calculate the job time. Be careful though, the red dot will be close, but not exactly where the laser will cut.

* You can use the X-Y mode to find positions on the print bed. Press the "X-Y" button and use the arrow pad to move the red pointer. The LCD displays the current x,y coordinates under the pointer. These coordinates can be used to position a work piece, and the values entered into CorelDraw. Use the up-down arrows and "Select" to choose "Re-home pointer" when finished. (Check the manual, linked below, for a more through explanation.)

* After the first time a job is run (including "pointer" test run mentioned above), during subsequent runs of the same job the control panel timer will change from a "count-up" timer to a "count-down" timer, telling you how much time remains on your job.

* You can press the "Pause" button on the control panel to pause your job. The laser cutter will finish the current line, then return the head to home. If it's in the middle of a raster, this will happen almost immediately, BUT if it's in the middle of a long cut line, the line will finish first. This may take several seconds. Your job can be resumed where it left off by pressing the "Resume" button. There may be a slight offset when resuming a job, especially if the system was in the middle of a raster. "Wait for the motion system to stop and move to the home position before opening any door otherwise the laser beam will not resume from the position it stopped at."

* Rastering an image on a full 24"x12" (width x height) piece of wood at the recommended settings of [Power 100, Speed 59, 500PPI ] will take 45-55 minutes. On a 24"x6" board, it will take about half that time. On a 12"x12" board, it will take about 10% less time than the full 24", so 40-50 minutes. For fastest raster time, orient your image so the longest dimension is aligned with the X axis.

=== Photo-quality raster images ===
'''Photo-quality raster images can be etched''' on material at high DPI(dots-per-inch)/PPI(pulses-per-inch). For example at 500 PPI on Acrylic.
* Open your image in [http://www.gimp.org/ The GIMP] or another program capable of editing photos. (CorelDraw doesn't support all the features we need.)
In GIMP:
* Click on "Image" --> "Mode" --> "Grayscale" to convert color to greyscale.
* Click on "Image" --> "Print Size" and set the X and Y Resolutions to the desired value (500 pixels/in).
* If you want to invert the grays (change black to white and white to black), click on "Colors" --> "Invert". The black portions are what will be etched. I recommend etching less instead of more; etching a large section of acrylic black will cause warping.
* If you need to adjust the gray levels, you can tweak the values using:
** "Colors" --> "Levels" OR
** "Colors" --> "Curves", You'll have to play around with these settings.
* Save your image with a new name and as a JPG or PNG.

=== Cleaning Acrylic Cuts ===

* Do not clean laser-cut acrylic with alcohol. "There is residual stress in a laser cut edge. The solvent breaks bonds and lets the plastic release the stress by cracking."--Wesley Faler.
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU9Ty0L0g7E What happens when you put alcohol on acrylic (short video)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Ammonia / Windex is also not recommended for cleaning]

* For masking paper adhesive residue, some (untested) suggestions are Goo Gone, WD-40, mineral oil, naptha, or even cooking oil

=== Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver ===
You can use the machine to directly measure on your material. See [[Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver]].

== Common Problems ==

=== My job didn't cut ===
'''Problem''': My design is in CorelDraw but all or a portion didn't cut.
Some causes of this include:
* The line thickness was not set to "hairline" or 0.001" inches and was ignored. (This color set to only "Vector" cut.)
* The line color is not one of the basic colors supported and was ignored.
* Driver setting for this chosen color set to "Skip".
* Driver set incorrectly to "Raster" or incorrectly to "Vector".
* Driver power level set to 0.
* Design is outside the 24" by 12" cut area.
* Design has transparency. This may manifest as vector lines rastering instead. Select the offending lines and set to "No Transparency" in the Object Properties.
* If a CorelDraw document has multiple pages (see tabs at bottom of Corel window) and you print "Current Document" then each page will be sent to the laser engraver as a SEPARATE job. If a page is blank, it will STILL be sent, and will show up as a 0 power 0 speed job. Press the "Next >>" button to skip that blank job. NOTE: this may cause difficulty managing multiple jobs on the laser engraver, so avoid this situation by not printing blank pages.

=== My cut or etch isn't deep enough ===
'''Problem''': My cut or etch isn't deep enough.

Without moving anything or changing any settings, you can press "Start" again and the exact same job will be run a second time, cutting in the exact same places if the work piece hasn't been moved. If your material is too thick, the laser may not be focused correctly to cut all the way through. You might be able to fix this by adjusting the Z-axis slightly lower.

== Maintenance ==

'''Refer maintenance to qualified personnel. If no qualified personal are on-site, post in [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0H6JEBK6 #broken] and/or [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''

'''Lens'''
See [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/team/leebc Bryan Lee] for training on lens cleaning procedure. Otherwise, follow [https://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=YiN3J2WShQY this procedure].

''Maintenance Schedule and Summary'' (From the manual)

Since the maintenance requirements of the laser system is dependent on the type of material being run, the quantity of material being removed, the hours of operation, and the quality of the exhaust blower, it must be user defined. As a starting point, we recommend the following schedule:
* '''As necessary'''
** ''Engraving table'' -- soap solution, or alcohol or acetone, and paper towels.
** ''Main enclosure'' -- vacuum loose debris. Use soft cloth or paper towels and the soap solution to clean the enclosure.
** ''Top door window'' -- cotton cloth and the soap solution. The top window is made out of acrylic. DO NOT use paper towels because they will scratch the acrylic. Also, DO NOT use window cleaner, alcohol, or acetone, as these chemicals will crack the acrylic. Only use cleaners compatible with acrylic.
* '''Every 8 hours of engraving''' -- Turn off and unplug the laser system.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis rails and bearing tracks'' -- cotton swabs or paper towels, and alcohol or soap solution.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis bearings'' -- After the rails and tracks are cleaned, use a clean swab or paper towel, and alcohol to clean all of the bearings by holding the swab against each bearing and moving the motion system by hand to roll the bearings against the swab. There are seven bearings in the system, three (3) on the focus carriage, two (2) on the left side of the X-rail, and two (2) on the right side of the X-rail.
** ''Clean X-axis belt''.
** ''Check beam window, #2 mirror, #3 mirror, and focus lens for debris''. Clean ONLY if dirty. Do not clean immediately after use, optics will be hot. -- Refer this step to trained personal.

* '''Every month'''
** ''Clean cooling fan filters'' -- Wash the element in a soap and water solution, dry, and re-install. If scheduling prevents filters from being washed and dried, use a dust buster to carefully vacuum dust off the filters. Be certain to replace them with the same side out that they were removed.
** ''Clean and re-lubricate Z-axis lead screws'' -- The only lubrication that may be required [on the entire laser system] is the screw threads for the table lifting mechanism. After some time, contaminants can adhere to the lubricant, which can cause the engraving table to bind up or sound squeaky. If this is the case, wipe off the contaminated grease with a soft cloth dampened with alcohol and apply fresh white lithium grease to the screw threads. NEVER SPRAY ANY DEGREASING SOLUTIONS DIRECTLY ONTO THE THREADS. Run the table up and down to work in the fresh grease. Repeat if necessary.
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis belt wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Check and/or clean X-axis and Y-axis drive gears''
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis bearing wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Inspect system for loose screws and mechanical parts'' – tighten if necessary

* '''Every 6 months'''
** ''Exhaust plenum'' -- Remove it from the system. Using your soap and water solution, clean the inside of plenum as well as the inside rear wall of the Laser System.
** ''Blower fan'' -- Check blower fan screen for loose cut material (cardboard) that may have been sucked through the exhaust system and be restricting air flow.
** ''"Bucket" Filter Cleaning'' -- Cleaning is simply a matter of stabilizing the buckets so they don't twist, unscrew the top bucket's lid, remove the filter material, take it outside and clean, dry it, refold it (air must pass through 4 layers), reinsert it. The screen on the exhaust side can be removed, and cleaned. Soaking and/or brushing may be necessary. The other screen can not be removed. When done, and screw the top on.
*** The purpose of the exhaust filter is to reduce material passing through the exhaust blower "in the attic". The blowers were getting gunked up and needed to be exchanged every 6 months or so. We attempted to use a cyclonic system last year, but it did not allow enough airflow.
*** The current setup draws air from the enclosure, through a 4 inch flexible metal duct and into the bottom bucket. When air enters the bottom bucket, the volume expands, slowing the airflow (but not the total volume, cubic feet/minute). The flow impacts a baffle and some particles should stop moving and ultimately fall. The airflow changes direction several times, which should stop more particulates. The air enters the upper bucket and passes through the filter material, catching even more particulates. There's a perforated metal panel the air goes through, then up the stack into the blower, then up another stack out the vent in the roof.
*** Flow problems can happen if the hoses get kinked or excessively dirty inside.

== Related Links ==

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2Z051TVVwaldaUGM&authuser=0 Safety Warnings]

* [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX HackerSpace's list of Laser Cutter Materials]

* [https://festi.info/boxes.py/ Boxes.py] Generate SVGs for boxes. Includes boxes with FLEXIBLE, curved sides. Many output formats are available, use svg or pdf, and avoid dxf as it seems to add unnecessary vectors.

* [http://boxmaker.connectionlab.org/ Box Maker]

* [http://www.makercase.com/ MakerCase]

* [https://www.remove.bg/ Remove Image Background]

* [https://polygonia.design/ Rapidly Create Symmetrical Designs for Manufacturing]

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ED_C4HDdXj8 Youtube video] of #sketchup plugin by Eneroth for #laser-engraver cutting and box-making. Brett Freeman writes: "Start sketchup and go to Extensions Warehouse. Search for Eneroth Laser tools. Click when you select it and then click Install."

* <noinclude>[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DYNPk58hrpItedoqooGeMAFEw2Fem7AQ Universal Laser M360 Manual]</noinclude> <includeonly>[https://me.berkeley.edu/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Universal-PLS6.150D-Laser-Manual.pdf PLS6.75 Manual]</includeonly>

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ioIpMk8M7658dY5rWBMrSJOM7g9V62d0 Cleaning tips from Epilog Laser]

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2MGExMF9OSnppZWc&authuser=0 Orientation Slide Deck]

* [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam Universal Laser's writeup on EVA foam]

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html Cardstock and Corrugated Boxes]

* [http://www.templatemaker.nl/ Free custom paper templates]

* [http://image.online-convert.com/ Online Image Converter]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/ Engraving Systems Support, whom THS bought our laser cutter from]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/equipment-support/universal-laser-systems-support/ ESS Support, search for M360]

* [http://parts.engravingsys.com/MVX-Laser-Parts Replacement Parts and Accessories]

* [https://github.com/vanillabox/OpenSCADBoxes OpenSCAD generated flex/living-hinge boxes]

* [https://3axis.co Free Vectors for Laser Cutting]

[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Fabrication]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

Tools: Universal M360 Laser Cutter

2025-01-06T16:49:23Z

Leebc: /* Materials Available at the Space */

[[File:m360.jpg|250px|thumb|right|M360 Laser Cutter]]

The Universal <noinclude>M360</noinclude> <includeonly>PLS6.75</includeonly> is a flexible tool for precise cutting and etching of flat materials like acrylic plastic and thin wood.

Use of the laser cutter requires the certification class.

'''If you are unsure about any aspect of laser cutter operation, cleaning, or maintenance, please ask for help in the [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''


== Tool Description ==
Universal Laser Cutter Model <noinclude>M360-60</noinclude> <includeonly>PLS6.75</includeonly>
* 60 Watt CO2 laser.
* <noinclude>24” x 12” (609.6 x 304.8mm)</noinclude> <includeonly>32" x 18" (813 x 457mm)</includeonly> cut bed.
* Flat Cutting Table or removable Honeycomb Cutting Table.
* High speed ventilation system for evacuation of fumes and particulates during cutting.
* CorelDraw
* Uses custom Windows print driver to specify laser intensities.
* Raster and Vector modes.
* 16 MB standard memory buffer.

== Safety ==

Do not operate the laser cutter without taking the class. Do not allow others to use the laser cutter unsupervised without ensuring that they have taken the class.

'''Always''' wear safety glasses while watching the laser cutter operate. These are the laser-specific dark safety glasses near the laser cutter. Clear or dark-tinted safety glasses, sunglasses, etc. are not adequate protection. The laser used for cutting / etching is not visible to the human eye but can cause significant damage to the eye.

'''Always''' use the ventilation fan. This is turned on via a power strip on the table. Leave the ventilation fan running for some time after completing your work to draw smoke and other gases out of the space. Please turn off the ventilation fan when not in use to keep air conditioning costs down. Notify us immediately if the ventilation fan seems weaker than usual.

'''Always''' supervise the laser cutter while in operation. The risk of fire varies by material but is always there.

Be considerate of others using the space. If possible, ''please'' refrain from operating the laser cutter during or immediately before a class or other Meetup due to noise and smell.

'''Note:''' The person operating the laser cutter is responsible for ensuring the safety of others in the area. Visitors, guests, and even other members may not know proper safety procedures. Ensure that they do not watch the laser operate without safety glasses.

Be aware of the nearest fire extinguishers:

* One just to the right of the laser-cutter
* One just inside kitchen
* One by front door

== Materials (what to use, and not use, it on) ==

There are a wide variety of materials that are safe to cut and etch.

=== '''Unsafe''' Materials to Cut or Etch ===

'''Never''' cut or etch these materials. Most of these will produce toxic gases when heated.

Note that many manufactured items that seem like good candidates for etching are made of PVC.

Note that it can be quite difficult to tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic plastics. If nothing else, a small test etch or cut will help determine which plastic the item is made from.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#NEVER_CUT_THESE_MATERIALS ATX HackerSpace].

* PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
* Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
* ABS
* HDPE/milk bottle plastic
* PolyStyrene Foam
* PolyPropylene Foam
* Fiberglass
* Coated Carbon Fiber
* Teflon (PTFE)
* Chrome-tanned Leather

=== Safe Materials to Cut ===

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Cutting ATX HackerSpace].

* Many woods (successfully used at THS)
* Plywood/Composite woods (successfully used at THS)
* MDF/Engineered woods
* Paper, card stock (successfully used at THS)
* Marshmallows (successfully used at THS)
* Cardboard, carton (Thick cardboard will burn - the pockets are protected from the exhaust fan and air assist and will sustain a flame) (successfully used at THS)
* Cork
* Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA (acrylic successfully used at THS)
* Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
* Delrin (POM)
* Kapton tape (Polyimide)
* Mylar
* Solid Styrene
* Depron foam
* Gator foam
* EVA foam (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam ULS])
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton
* Leather/Suede (ONLY veg-tan leather. NEVER cut or etch chrome-tan leathers)
* Magnetic Sheet
* NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber
* Neoprene rubber (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/neoprene-rubber ULS])
* Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not had epoxy applied
* Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
* Chocolate (successfully used at THS)
* Worbla is reportedly safe to cut ( [https://www.worbla.com/?page_id=7425 Worbla.com] )

=== Safe Materials to Etch ===

Some materials can't be cut, but can be lightly etched.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Etching From ATX HackerSpace].

* Most of the above "cut-safe" materials
* Glass
* Ceramic tile
* Anodized aluminum (Read special instructions for this material)
* Painted/coated metals (Read special instructions for this material)
* Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx. (Read special instructions for this material) (successfully used at THS)

=== Selecting Materials ===

* [http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/ Identifying unknown plastics (link)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Extruded vs. Cast Acrylic]

* Materials thicker than about 1/4 inch (6mm) may not cut cleanly through due to how/where the laser beam point focuses

* Using the laser on chrome-tanned leather will produce cyanide gas. Veg-tanned leather is safe to use at THS. Refer to [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6w485PtivLE this video] for more information on chrome vs. veg-tanned leather.

=== Materials Available at the Space ===

We do not currently resell materials for use with the laser cutter.

We keep a steady supply of scrap 1/4 inch plywood and acrylic sheet at the space for free use. Please donate any useful scraps and dispose of pieces that are too small to be used.

There are a number of donated pieces of other plastics, some tiles, etc. kept near the laser cutter for free use. Be aware that some of this plastic may be polycarbonate or other materials.

<s>We have a good amount of donated matte board (scraps from framing art) that cuts well. It is kept in a lateral file below the office supplies.</s> We would love a donation of matte board.

=== Where to buy acrylic ===
* [http://www.farcoplastics.com/ Farco Plastics Supply] (in Clearwater) Recommended by a few of our members.
* [http://www.plasticsamerica.com/ Plastics America] (out towards Brandon.) "They price by the square foot and charge a single cut fee per order so you benefit from buying in quantity. Buying one or two pieces from them can get expensive. I think I recall the cut fee being $12ish." -- Bill
* [http://www.delviesplastics.com/ Delvie's Plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.estreetplastics.com/ e street plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.ceruleantides.com/ Cerulean Tides] (Ft. Lauderdale) "Ships same day via UPS", is usually at my door the next day."
* [https://www.engraving-supplies.com/ Trotec / engraving-supplies.com] (on line, also carries wood)

=== Where to buy wood ===

Home Depot and Lowes sell 1/4" (and some other thicknesses) plywood as "project panel" / "luan" (cheap but often has knots in middle layers that may need multiple passes or a knife/saw to cut through)

Michaels, Joann's, Blick, and others carry Midwest Products birch plywood (not cheap but look for Joann's coupons)

[https://www.cardsofwood.com/product/wood-panels/ Cards of Wood]

[https://aircraftplywood.com/products/ Aircraft Plywood] (recommended by [https://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/blog/?p=6042 Nervous Systems])

Also see: [https://wiki.tampahackerspace.com/Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood '''Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood''']

== Tool Use ==

* Videos: We have videos uploaded instructing on [https://youtu.be/hCUCX2dZWiU](removing/installing air assist cone) and [https://youtu.be/WrXSZ3RTzKs](setting the z-height)
* '''Check lens. If you have been trained in lens cleaning, Clean only if necessary (see '''Maintenance''' section below for procedures)'''
* Create a new document in CorelDraw that is 24"Wx12"H
* Load SVG or create design. Use only the 8 supported colors.
* "Print" design
** Before clicking "OK" to print, go to "Preferences" and set appropriate values for each color.
** Review information from the class on how to do this.
** Review Laser Cutter documentation and log book for what settings to use.
* Turn on the exhaust fan.
* Power on Laser Cutter.
* If air assist nozzle is installed, turn on its air
* Put masking on your material to reduce scorching. (We have a large roll of self-adhesive masking in the Laser Cutter work area.)
* Place material on the cut bed.
* Set the Z-axis height and return the focus alignment tool to it's storage location.
* Close all Laser Cutter doors.
* Press "Next ==>" on the laser cutter control panel to use the most recently printed file.
* Double check your work.
* Press "Start".
* '''Never leave the Laser Cutter unattended!'''
* When done, turn off exhaust fan, and air assist (if applicable)
* ''Write a short entry about your print job in the Log Book about who, when, what you cut, what settings you used, and the cut duration.''

== Software ==

=== Corel Draw ===
[https://www.coreldraw.com Corel Draw] [https://www.genesis-technologies.com/coreldraw-graphics-suite-2021-for-windows-download.html 2021 (Academic and Non-Profit)] is provided on the Laser Engraver workstation. The about page reports Version 23.1.0.389. It is used for job layout, as well as building vector (and other) images for cutting.

=== Inkscape ===

[https://inkscape.org/en/ Inkscape] is a free Open Source vector graphics editor that you can use to get used to the overall concept of vector based graphics design. However, be aware that there are certain issues you must face when transferring your design to the laser printer.

Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw using SVG format, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%. PDF and certain other formats do not suffer from this problem and are the preferred method of import.

''Note: As of Inkscape 0.92 the default resolution has been changed to 96dpi to match the CSS standard and now matches that of CorelDraw. The information on scaling may be needed only if using an older version of Inkscape.''

See [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Using_Inkscape_with_the_Laser_Cutter this guide] by the ATX Hackerspace for help.

=== Adobe Illustrator ===
Illustrator could be used, but specifics haven't been documented here.

=== [[Software:_Slicer_for_Fusion_360|Slicer for Fusion360]] ===
{{:Software:_Slicer_for_Fusion_360}}

=== Other ===
There are others, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_vector_graphics_editors

== Tips and Tricks ==

Since the terms are used repeatedly used in this document, here's [http://vector-conversions.com/vectorizing/raster_vs_vector.html the difference] between [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics Raster] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics Vector] images.

=== Design tips from the first class ===
* Set your page size to 24"W x 12"H.
* Placing your image at the top left corner cuts it from the top left corner.
* Keep a 1/8" margin in case the laser (or bed, or material) is slightly out of alignment.
* Vector cuts should use line widths of 0.001" or hairline. Anything wider than 0.005" will be rasterized and not cut the way you expect. You can draw with wider lines and reset them before printing in CorelDraw using "Select All" then "Object" --> "Fill And Stroke" to reset all lines to 0.001".
* Draw your "cut" lines in red, and "etch" lines in blue or green. Anything you want to rasterize should be in monochrome/greyscale. (Advanced users can use more colors for more things...but if you know enough to do this, then you don't need to be told how.)
* Lines with colors not set to 255 for any RGB value or less than 100% opacity will be treated as black and rasterized or worse, ignored, by the print driver.[SIC] Don't use color models other than RGB.
* '''Problem''': I created an SVG in Inkscape but when I import it into CorelDraw it's the wrong size. --- Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%

=== Other tips members have learned ===

* CorelDraw lets you do math inside the size entry fields. For example, if you have a Width that is 4.228 in, you can append to that "+1.25" and CorelDraw will change the value to 5.478 in. Furthermore, you can enter values in either "standard" or metric units and CorelDraw will recalculate the value in the document's default units. For example: if the document is set to inches and you entered "65mm" CorelDraw will do the calculation and set the value to 2.5590 inches.

* If you realize you forgot to turn on the vent, you should quickly turn on the vent! But it's better to not forget to turn it on in the first place.

* It may be helpful to use the restroom/get a drink/stretch/etc before starting a particular long (complex) job. DO NOT leave laser cutter unattended while cutting or etching.

* You can use scrap material (pieces that have already been cut) to test out a design, or for a finished piece if it is the right size. There is a bin of "scrap material" kept near the laser cutter.

* Etching a large section of thin acrylic will cause warping.

* If you are etching an oddly shaped and curved surface (for example a pumpkin), try setting the Z-height to the "median" (middle) height you are etching.

* Refer to the following table for spot sizes (the width of the cut, or "kerf") and focal ranges of the lenses available. (Note: The Tampa Hackerspace only has the 2.0 lens, the others are presented for completeness.)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| FOCAL LENGTH
| SPOT SIZE
| FOCAL RANGE
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 1.5 “
| .003 “
| + / - .075 “
|-
| 2.0 “
| .005 “
| + / - .100 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 2.5 “
| .007 “
| + / - .125 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 4.0 “
| .013 “
| + / - .200 “
|}

* You can use the "pointer" mode to "proof" a design. If the any of the doors are open, the red light on the control panel will flash. If you press "Start" to run your job in this state, the job will begin and will trace out the entire design, HOWEVER, the standard invisible CO2 laser will be replaced with a red pointer dot (laser diode). This will let you test your layout and will calculate the job time. Be careful though, the red dot will be close, but not exactly where the laser will cut.

* You can use the X-Y mode to find positions on the print bed. Press the "X-Y" button and use the arrow pad to move the red pointer. The LCD displays the current x,y coordinates under the pointer. These coordinates can be used to position a work piece, and the values entered into CorelDraw. Use the up-down arrows and "Select" to choose "Re-home pointer" when finished. (Check the manual, linked below, for a more through explanation.)

* After the first time a job is run (including "pointer" test run mentioned above), during subsequent runs of the same job the control panel timer will change from a "count-up" timer to a "count-down" timer, telling you how much time remains on your job.

* You can press the "Pause" button on the control panel to pause your job. The laser cutter will finish the current line, then return the head to home. If it's in the middle of a raster, this will happen almost immediately, BUT if it's in the middle of a long cut line, the line will finish first. This may take several seconds. Your job can be resumed where it left off by pressing the "Resume" button. There may be a slight offset when resuming a job, especially if the system was in the middle of a raster. "Wait for the motion system to stop and move to the home position before opening any door otherwise the laser beam will not resume from the position it stopped at."

* Rastering an image on a full 24"x12" (width x height) piece of wood at the recommended settings of [Power 100, Speed 59, 500PPI ] will take 45-55 minutes. On a 24"x6" board, it will take about half that time. On a 12"x12" board, it will take about 10% less time than the full 24", so 40-50 minutes. For fastest raster time, orient your image so the longest dimension is aligned with the X axis.

=== Photo-quality raster images ===
'''Photo-quality raster images can be etched''' on material at high DPI(dots-per-inch)/PPI(pulses-per-inch). For example at 500 PPI on Acrylic.
* Open your image in [http://www.gimp.org/ The GIMP] or another program capable of editing photos. (CorelDraw doesn't support all the features we need.)
In GIMP:
* Click on "Image" --> "Mode" --> "Grayscale" to convert color to greyscale.
* Click on "Image" --> "Print Size" and set the X and Y Resolutions to the desired value (500 pixels/in).
* If you want to invert the grays (change black to white and white to black), click on "Colors" --> "Invert". The black portions are what will be etched. I recommend etching less instead of more; etching a large section of acrylic black will cause warping.
* If you need to adjust the gray levels, you can tweak the values using:
** "Colors" --> "Levels" OR
** "Colors" --> "Curves", You'll have to play around with these settings.
* Save your image with a new name and as a JPG or PNG.

=== Cleaning Acrylic Cuts ===

* Do not clean laser-cut acrylic with alcohol. "There is residual stress in a laser cut edge. The solvent breaks bonds and lets the plastic release the stress by cracking."--Wesley Faler.
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU9Ty0L0g7E What happens when you put alcohol on acrylic (short video)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Ammonia / Windex is also not recommended for cleaning]

* For masking paper adhesive residue, some (untested) suggestions are Goo Gone, WD-40, mineral oil, naptha, or even cooking oil

=== Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver ===
You can use the machine to directly measure on your material. See [[Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver]].

== Common Problems ==

=== My job didn't cut ===
'''Problem''': My design is in CorelDraw but all or a portion didn't cut.
Some causes of this include:
* The line thickness was not set to "hairline" or 0.001" inches and was ignored. (This color set to only "Vector" cut.)
* The line color is not one of the basic colors supported and was ignored.
* Driver setting for this chosen color set to "Skip".
* Driver set incorrectly to "Raster" or incorrectly to "Vector".
* Driver power level set to 0.
* Design is outside the 24" by 12" cut area.
* Design has transparency. This may manifest as vector lines rastering instead. Select the offending lines and set to "No Transparency" in the Object Properties.
* If a CorelDraw document has multiple pages (see tabs at bottom of Corel window) and you print "Current Document" then each page will be sent to the laser engraver as a SEPARATE job. If a page is blank, it will STILL be sent, and will show up as a 0 power 0 speed job. Press the "Next >>" button to skip that blank job. NOTE: this may cause difficulty managing multiple jobs on the laser engraver, so avoid this situation by not printing blank pages.

=== My cut or etch isn't deep enough ===
'''Problem''': My cut or etch isn't deep enough.

Without moving anything or changing any settings, you can press "Start" again and the exact same job will be run a second time, cutting in the exact same places if the work piece hasn't been moved. If your material is too thick, the laser may not be focused correctly to cut all the way through. You might be able to fix this by adjusting the Z-axis slightly lower.

== Maintenance ==

'''Refer maintenance to qualified personnel. If no qualified personal are on-site, post in [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0H6JEBK6 #broken] and/or [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''

'''Lens'''
See [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/team/leebc Bryan Lee] for training on lens cleaning procedure. Otherwise, follow [https://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=YiN3J2WShQY this procedure].

''Maintenance Schedule and Summary'' (From the manual)

Since the maintenance requirements of the laser system is dependent on the type of material being run, the quantity of material being removed, the hours of operation, and the quality of the exhaust blower, it must be user defined. As a starting point, we recommend the following schedule:
* '''As necessary'''
** ''Engraving table'' -- soap solution, or alcohol or acetone, and paper towels.
** ''Main enclosure'' -- vacuum loose debris. Use soft cloth or paper towels and the soap solution to clean the enclosure.
** ''Top door window'' -- cotton cloth and the soap solution. The top window is made out of acrylic. DO NOT use paper towels because they will scratch the acrylic. Also, DO NOT use window cleaner, alcohol, or acetone, as these chemicals will crack the acrylic. Only use cleaners compatible with acrylic.
* '''Every 8 hours of engraving''' -- Turn off and unplug the laser system.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis rails and bearing tracks'' -- cotton swabs or paper towels, and alcohol or soap solution.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis bearings'' -- After the rails and tracks are cleaned, use a clean swab or paper towel, and alcohol to clean all of the bearings by holding the swab against each bearing and moving the motion system by hand to roll the bearings against the swab. There are seven bearings in the system, three (3) on the focus carriage, two (2) on the left side of the X-rail, and two (2) on the right side of the X-rail.
** ''Clean X-axis belt''.
** ''Check beam window, #2 mirror, #3 mirror, and focus lens for debris''. Clean ONLY if dirty. Do not clean immediately after use, optics will be hot. -- Refer this step to trained personal.

* '''Every month'''
** ''Clean cooling fan filters'' -- Wash the element in a soap and water solution, dry, and re-install. If scheduling prevents filters from being washed and dried, use a dust buster to carefully vacuum dust off the filters. Be certain to replace them with the same side out that they were removed.
** ''Clean and re-lubricate Z-axis lead screws'' -- The only lubrication that may be required [on the entire laser system] is the screw threads for the table lifting mechanism. After some time, contaminants can adhere to the lubricant, which can cause the engraving table to bind up or sound squeaky. If this is the case, wipe off the contaminated grease with a soft cloth dampened with alcohol and apply fresh white lithium grease to the screw threads. NEVER SPRAY ANY DEGREASING SOLUTIONS DIRECTLY ONTO THE THREADS. Run the table up and down to work in the fresh grease. Repeat if necessary.
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis belt wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Check and/or clean X-axis and Y-axis drive gears''
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis bearing wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Inspect system for loose screws and mechanical parts'' – tighten if necessary

* '''Every 6 months'''
** ''Exhaust plenum'' -- Remove it from the system. Using your soap and water solution, clean the inside of plenum as well as the inside rear wall of the Laser System.
** ''Blower fan'' -- Check blower fan screen for loose cut material (cardboard) that may have been sucked through the exhaust system and be restricting air flow.
** ''"Bucket" Filter Cleaning'' -- Cleaning is simply a matter of stabilizing the buckets so they don't twist, unscrew the top bucket's lid, remove the filter material, take it outside and clean, dry it, refold it (air must pass through 4 layers), reinsert it. The screen on the exhaust side can be removed, and cleaned. Soaking and/or brushing may be necessary. The other screen can not be removed. When done, and screw the top on.
*** The purpose of the exhaust filter is to reduce material passing through the exhaust blower "in the attic". The blowers were getting gunked up and needed to be exchanged every 6 months or so. We attempted to use a cyclonic system last year, but it did not allow enough airflow.
*** The current setup draws air from the enclosure, through a 4 inch flexible metal duct and into the bottom bucket. When air enters the bottom bucket, the volume expands, slowing the airflow (but not the total volume, cubic feet/minute). The flow impacts a baffle and some particles should stop moving and ultimately fall. The airflow changes direction several times, which should stop more particulates. The air enters the upper bucket and passes through the filter material, catching even more particulates. There's a perforated metal panel the air goes through, then up the stack into the blower, then up another stack out the vent in the roof.
*** Flow problems can happen if the hoses get kinked or excessively dirty inside.

== Related Links ==

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2Z051TVVwaldaUGM&authuser=0 Safety Warnings]

* [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX HackerSpace's list of Laser Cutter Materials]

* [https://festi.info/boxes.py/ Boxes.py] Generate SVGs for boxes. Includes boxes with FLEXIBLE, curved sides. Many output formats are available, use svg or pdf, and avoid dxf as it seems to add unnecessary vectors.

* [http://boxmaker.connectionlab.org/ Box Maker]

* [http://www.makercase.com/ MakerCase]

* [https://www.remove.bg/ Remove Image Background]

* [https://polygonia.design/ Rapidly Create Symmetrical Designs for Manufacturing]

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ED_C4HDdXj8 Youtube video] of #sketchup plugin by Eneroth for #laser-engraver cutting and box-making. Brett Freeman writes: "Start sketchup and go to Extensions Warehouse. Search for Eneroth Laser tools. Click when you select it and then click Install."

* <noinclude>[https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DYNPk58hrpItedoqooGeMAFEw2Fem7AQ Universal Laser M360 Manual]</noinclude> <includeonly>[https://me.berkeley.edu/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Universal-PLS6.150D-Laser-Manual.pdf PLS6.75 Manual]</includeonly>

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ioIpMk8M7658dY5rWBMrSJOM7g9V62d0 Cleaning tips from Epilog Laser]

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2MGExMF9OSnppZWc&authuser=0 Orientation Slide Deck]

* [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam Universal Laser's writeup on EVA foam]

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html Cardstock and Corrugated Boxes]

* [http://www.templatemaker.nl/ Free custom paper templates]

* [http://image.online-convert.com/ Online Image Converter]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/ Engraving Systems Support, whom THS bought our laser cutter from]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/equipment-support/universal-laser-systems-support/ ESS Support, search for M360]

* [http://parts.engravingsys.com/MVX-Laser-Parts Replacement Parts and Accessories]

* [https://github.com/vanillabox/OpenSCADBoxes OpenSCAD generated flex/living-hinge boxes]

* [https://3axis.co Free Vectors for Laser Cutting]

[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Fabrication]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

Tools: Universal M360 Laser Cutter

2023-12-29T17:58:26Z

Leebc: /* Related Links */ Added sketchup plugin install directions

[[File:m360.jpg|250px|thumb|right|M360 Laser Cutter]]

The Universal M360 is a flexible tool for precise cutting and etching of flat materials like acrylic plastic and thin wood.

Use of the laser cutter requires the certification class.

'''If you are unsure about any aspect of laser cutter operation, cleaning, or maintenance, please ask for help in the [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''


== Tool Description ==
Universal Laser Cutter Model M360-60
* 60 Watt CO2 laser.
* 24” x 12” (609.6 x 304.8mm) cut bed.
* Flat Cutting Table or removable Honeycomb Cutting Table.
* High speed ventilation system for evacuation of fumes and particulates during cutting.
* CorelDraw
* Uses custom Windows print driver to specify laser intensities.
* Raster and Vector modes.
* 16 MB standard memory buffer.

== Safety ==

Do not operate the laser cutter without taking the class. Do not allow others to use the laser cutter unsupervised without ensuring that they have taken the class.

'''Always''' wear safety glasses while watching the laser cutter operate. These are the laser-specific dark safety glasses near the laser cutter. Clear or dark-tinted safety glasses, sunglasses, etc. are not adequate protection. The laser used for cutting / etching is not visible to the human eye but can cause significant damage to the eye.

'''Always''' use the ventilation fan. This is turned on via a power strip on the table. Leave the ventilation fan running for some time after completing your work to draw smoke and other gases out of the space. Please turn off the ventilation fan when not in use to keep air conditioning costs down. Notify us immediately if the ventilation fan seems weaker than usual.

'''Always''' supervise the laser cutter while in operation. The risk of fire varies by material but is always there.

Be considerate of others using the space. If possible, ''please'' refrain from operating the laser cutter during or immediately before a class or other Meetup due to noise and smell.

'''Note:''' The person operating the laser cutter is responsible for ensuring the safety of others in the area. Visitors, guests, and even other members may not know proper safety procedures. Ensure that they do not watch the laser operate without safety glasses.

Be aware of the nearest fire extinguishers:

* One just to the right of the laser-cutter
* One just inside kitchen
* One by front door

== Materials (what to use, and not use, it on) ==

There are a wide variety of materials that are safe to cut and etch.

=== '''Unsafe''' Materials to Cut or Etch ===

'''Never''' cut or etch these materials. Most of these will produce toxic gases when heated.

Note that many manufactured items that seem like good candidates for etching are made of PVC.

Note that it can be quite difficult to tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic plastics. If nothing else, a small test etch or cut will help determine which plastic the item is made from.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#NEVER_CUT_THESE_MATERIALS ATX HackerSpace].

* PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
* Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
* ABS
* HDPE/milk bottle plastic
* PolyStyrene Foam
* PolyPropylene Foam
* Fiberglass
* Coated Carbon Fiber
* Teflon (PTFE)

=== Safe Materials to Cut ===

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Cutting ATX HackerSpace].

* Many woods (successfully used at THS)
* Plywood/Composite woods (successfully used at THS)
* MDF/Engineered woods
* Paper, card stock (successfully used at THS)
* Marshmallows (successfully used at THS)
* Cardboard, carton (Thick cardboard will burn - the pockets are protected from the exhaust fan and air assist and will sustain a flame) (successfully used at THS)
* Cork
* Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA (acrylic successfully used at THS)
* Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
* Delrin (POM)
* Kapton tape (Polyimide)
* Mylar
* Solid Styrene
* Depron foam
* Gator foam
* EVA foam (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam ULS])
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton
* Leather/Suede (successfully used at THS)
* Magnetic Sheet
* NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber
* Neoprene rubber (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/neoprene-rubber ULS])
* Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not had epoxy applied
* Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
* Chocolate (successfully used at THS)
* Worbla is reportedly safe to cut ( [https://www.worbla.com/?page_id=7425 Worbla.com] )

=== Safe Materials to Etch ===

Some materials can't be cut, but can be lightly etched.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Etching From ATX HackerSpace].

* Most of the above "cut-safe" materials
* Glass
* Ceramic tile
* Anodized aluminum (Read special instructions for this material)
* Painted/coated metals (Read special instructions for this material)
* Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx. (Read special instructions for this material) (successfully used at THS)

=== Selecting Materials ===

* [http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/ Identifying unknown plastics (link)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Extruded vs. Cast Acrylic]

* Materials thicker than about 1/4 inch (6mm) may not cut cleanly through due to how/where the laser beam point focuses

=== Materials Available at the Space ===

We do not currently resell materials for use with the laser cutter.

We keep a steady supply of scrap 1/4 inch plywood and acrylic sheet at the space for free use. Please donate any useful scraps and dispose of pieces that are too small to be used.

There are a number of donated pieces of other plastics, some tiles, etc. kept near the laser cutter for free use. Be aware that some of this plastic may be polycarbonate or other materials.

We have a good amount of donated matte board (scraps from framing art) that cuts well. It is kept in a lateral file below the office supplies.

=== Where to buy acrylic ===
* [http://www.farcoplastics.com/ Farco Plastics Supply] (in Clearwater) Recommended by a few of our members.
* [http://www.plasticsamerica.com/ Plastics America] (out towards Brandon.) "They price by the square foot and charge a single cut fee per order so you benefit from buying in quantity. Buying one or two pieces from them can get expensive. I think I recall the cut fee being $12ish." -- Bill
* [http://www.delviesplastics.com/ Delvie's Plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.estreetplastics.com/ e street plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.ceruleantides.com/ Cerulean Tides] (Ft. Lauderdale) "Ships same day via UPS", is usually at my door the next day."
* [https://www.engraving-supplies.com/ Trotec / engraving-supplies.com] (on line, also carries wood)

=== Where to buy wood ===

Home Depot and Lowes sell 1/4" (and some other thicknesses) plywood as "project panel" / "luan" (cheap but often has knots in middle layers that may need multiple passes or a knife/saw to cut through)

Michaels, Joann's, Blick, and others carry Midwest Products birch plywood (not cheap but look for Joann's coupons)

[https://www.cardsofwood.com/product/wood-panels/ Cards of Wood]

[https://aircraftplywood.com/products/ Aircraft Plywood] (recommended by [https://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/blog/?p=6042 Nervous Systems])

Also see: [https://wiki.tampahackerspace.com/Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood '''Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood''']

== Tool Use ==

* Videos: We have videos uploaded instructing on [https://youtu.be/hCUCX2dZWiU](removing/installing air assist cone) and [https://youtu.be/WrXSZ3RTzKs](setting the z-height)
* '''Check lens. If you have been trained in lens cleaning, Clean only if necessary (see '''Maintenance''' section below for procedures)'''
* Create a new document in CorelDraw that is 24"Wx12"H
* Load SVG or create design. Use only the 8 supported colors.
* "Print" design
** Before clicking "OK" to print, go to "Preferences" and set appropriate values for each color.
** Review information from the class on how to do this.
** Review Laser Cutter documentation and log book for what settings to use.
* Turn on the exhaust fan.
* Power on Laser Cutter.
* If air assist nozzle is installed, turn on its air
* Put masking on your material to reduce scorching. (We have a large roll of self-adhesive masking in the Laser Cutter work area.)
* Place material on the cut bed.
* Set the Z-axis height and return the focus alignment tool to it's storage location.
* Close all Laser Cutter doors.
* Press "Next ==>" on the laser cutter control panel to use the most recently printed file.
* Double check your work.
* Press "Start".
* '''Never leave the Laser Cutter unattended!'''
* When done, turn off exhaust fan, and air assist (if applicable)
* ''Write a short entry about your print job in the Log Book about who, when, what you cut, what settings you used, and the cut duration.''

== Software ==

=== Corel Draw ===
[https://www.coreldraw.com Corel Draw] [https://www.genesis-technologies.com/coreldraw-graphics-suite-2021-for-windows-download.html 2021 (Academic and Non-Profit)] is provided on the Laser Engraver workstation. The about page reports Version 23.1.0.389. It is used for job layout, as well as building vector (and other) images for cutting.

=== Inkscape ===

[https://inkscape.org/en/ Inkscape] is a free Open Source vector graphics editor that you can use to get used to the overall concept of vector based graphics design. However, be aware that there are certain issues you must face when transferring your design to the laser printer.

Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw using SVG format, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%. PDF and certain other formats do not suffer from this problem and are the preferred method of import.

''Note: As of Inkscape 0.92 the default resolution has been changed to 96dpi to match the CSS standard and now matches that of CorelDraw. The information on scaling may be needed only if using an older version of Inkscape.''

See [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Using_Inkscape_with_the_Laser_Cutter this guide] by the ATX Hackerspace for help.

=== Adobe Illustrator ===
Illustrator could be used, but specifics haven't been documented here.

=== Other ===
There are others, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_vector_graphics_editors

== Tips and Tricks ==

Since the terms are used repeatedly used in this document, here's [http://vector-conversions.com/vectorizing/raster_vs_vector.html the difference] between [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics Raster] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics Vector] images.

=== Design tips from the first class ===
* Set your page size to 24"W x 12"H.
* Placing your image at the top left corner cuts it from the top left corner.
* Keep a 1/8" margin in case the laser (or bed, or material) is slightly out of alignment.
* Vector cuts should use line widths of 0.001" or hairline. Anything wider than 0.005" will be rasterized and not cut the way you expect. You can draw with wider lines and reset them before printing in CorelDraw using "Select All" then "Object" --> "Fill And Stroke" to reset all lines to 0.001".
* Draw your "cut" lines in red, and "etch" lines in blue or green. Anything you want to rasterize should be in monochrome/greyscale. (Advanced users can use more colors for more things...but if you know enough to do this, then you don't need to be told how.)
* Lines with colors not set to 255 for any RGB value or less than 100% opacity will be treated as black and rasterized or worse, ignored, by the print driver.[SIC] Don't use color models other than RGB.
* '''Problem''': I created an SVG in Inkscape but when I import it into CorelDraw it's the wrong size. --- Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%

=== Other tips members have learned ===

* CorelDraw lets you do math inside the size entry fields. For example, if you have a Width that is 4.228 in, you can append to that "+1.25" and CorelDraw will change the value to 5.478 in. Furthermore, you can enter values in either "standard" or metric units and CorelDraw will recalculate the value in the document's default units. For example: if the document is set to inches and you entered "65mm" CorelDraw will do the calculation and set the value to 2.5590 inches.

* If you realize you forgot to turn on the vent, you should quickly turn on the vent! But it's better to not forget to turn it on in the first place.

* It may be helpful to use the restroom/get a drink/stretch/etc before starting a particular long (complex) job. DO NOT leave laser cutter unattended while cutting or etching.

* You can use scrap material (pieces that have already been cut) to test out a design, or for a finished piece if it is the right size. There is a bin of "scrap material" kept near the laser cutter.

* Etching a large section of thin acrylic will cause warping.

* If you are etching an oddly shaped and curved surface (for example a pumpkin), try setting the Z-height to the "median" (middle) height you are etching.

* Refer to the following table for spot sizes (the width of the cut, or "kerf") and focal ranges of the lenses available. (Note: The Tampa Hackerspace only has the 2.0 lens, the others are presented for completeness.)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| FOCAL LENGTH
| SPOT SIZE
| FOCAL RANGE
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 1.5 “
| .003 “
| + / - .075 “
|-
| 2.0 “
| .005 “
| + / - .100 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 2.5 “
| .007 “
| + / - .125 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 4.0 “
| .013 “
| + / - .200 “
|}

* You can use the "pointer" mode to "proof" a design. If the any of the doors are open, the red light on the control panel will flash. If you press "Start" to run your job in this state, the job will begin and will trace out the entire design, HOWEVER, the standard invisible CO2 laser will be replaced with a red pointer dot (laser diode). This will let you test your layout and will calculate the job time. Be careful though, the red dot will be close, but not exactly where the laser will cut.

* You can use the X-Y mode to find positions on the print bed. Press the "X-Y" button and use the arrow pad to move the red pointer. The LCD displays the current x,y coordinates under the pointer. These coordinates can be used to position a work piece, and the values entered into CorelDraw. Use the up-down arrows and "Select" to choose "Re-home pointer" when finished. (Check the manual, linked below, for a more through explanation.)

* After the first time a job is run (including "pointer" test run mentioned above), during subsequent runs of the same job the control panel timer will change from a "count-up" timer to a "count-down" timer, telling you how much time remains on your job.

* You can press the "Pause" button on the control panel to pause your job. The laser cutter will finish the current line, then return the head to home. If it's in the middle of a raster, this will happen almost immediately, BUT if it's in the middle of a long cut line, the line will finish first. This may take several seconds. Your job can be resumed where it left off by pressing the "Resume" button. There may be a slight offset when resuming a job, especially if the system was in the middle of a raster. "Wait for the motion system to stop and move to the home position before opening any door otherwise the laser beam will not resume from the position it stopped at."

* Rastering an image on a full 24"x12" (width x height) piece of wood at the recommended settings of [Power 100, Speed 59, 500PPI ] will take 45-55 minutes. On a 24"x6" board, it will take about half that time. On a 12"x12" board, it will take about 10% less time than the full 24", so 40-50 minutes. For fastest raster time, orient your image so the longest dimension is aligned with the X axis.

=== Photo-quality raster images ===
'''Photo-quality raster images can be etched''' on material at high DPI(dots-per-inch)/PPI(pulses-per-inch). For example at 500 PPI on Acrylic.
* Open your image in [http://www.gimp.org/ The GIMP] or another program capable of editing photos. (CorelDraw doesn't support all the features we need.)
In GIMP:
* Click on "Image" --> "Mode" --> "Grayscale" to convert color to greyscale.
* Click on "Image" --> "Print Size" and set the X and Y Resolutions to the desired value (500 pixels/in).
* If you want to invert the grays (change black to white and white to black), click on "Colors" --> "Invert". The black portions are what will be etched. I recommend etching less instead of more; etching a large section of acrylic black will cause warping.
* If you need to adjust the gray levels, you can tweak the values using:
** "Colors" --> "Levels" OR
** "Colors" --> "Curves", You'll have to play around with these settings.
* Save your image with a new name and as a JPG or PNG.

=== Cleaning Acrylic Cuts ===

* Do not clean laser-cut acrylic with alcohol. "There is residual stress in a laser cut edge. The solvent breaks bonds and lets the plastic release the stress by cracking."--Wesley Faler.
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU9Ty0L0g7E What happens when you put alcohol on acrylic (short video)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Ammonia / Windex is also not recommended for cleaning]

* For masking paper adhesive residue, some (untested) suggestions are Goo Gone, WD-40, mineral oil, naptha, or even cooking oil

=== Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver ===
You can use the machine to directly measure on your material. See [[Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver]].

== Common Problems ==

=== My job didn't cut ===
'''Problem''': My design is in CorelDraw but all or a portion didn't cut.
Some causes of this include:
* The line thickness was not set to "hairline" or 0.001" inches and was ignored. (This color set to only "Vector" cut.)
* The line color is not one of the basic colors supported and was ignored.
* Driver setting for this chosen color set to "Skip".
* Driver set incorrectly to "Raster" or incorrectly to "Vector".
* Driver power level set to 0.
* Design is outside the 24" by 12" cut area.
* Design has transparency. This may manifest as vector lines rastering instead. Select the offending lines and set to "No Transparency" in the Object Properties.
* If a CorelDraw document has multiple pages (see tabs at bottom of Corel window) and you print "Current Document" then each page will be sent to the laser engraver as a SEPARATE job. If a page is blank, it will STILL be sent, and will show up as a 0 power 0 speed job. Press the "Next >>" button to skip that blank job. NOTE: this may cause difficulty managing multiple jobs on the laser engraver, so avoid this situation by not printing blank pages.

=== My cut or etch isn't deep enough ===
'''Problem''': My cut or etch isn't deep enough.

Without moving anything or changing any settings, you can press "Start" again and the exact same job will be run a second time, cutting in the exact same places if the work piece hasn't been moved. If your material is too thick, the laser may not be focused correctly to cut all the way through. You might be able to fix this by adjusting the Z-axis slightly lower.

== Maintenance ==

'''Refer maintenance to qualified personnel. If no qualified personal are on-site, post in [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0H6JEBK6 #broken] and/or [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''

'''Lens'''
See [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/team/leebc Bryan Lee] for training on lens cleaning procedure. Otherwise, follow [https://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=YiN3J2WShQY this procedure].

''Maintenance Schedule and Summary'' (From the manual)

Since the maintenance requirements of the laser system is dependent on the type of material being run, the quantity of material being removed, the hours of operation, and the quality of the exhaust blower, it must be user defined. As a starting point, we recommend the following schedule:
* '''As necessary'''
** ''Engraving table'' -- soap solution, or alcohol or acetone, and paper towels.
** ''Main enclosure'' -- vacuum loose debris. Use soft cloth or paper towels and the soap solution to clean the enclosure.
** ''Top door window'' -- cotton cloth and the soap solution. The top window is made out of acrylic. DO NOT use paper towels because they will scratch the acrylic. Also, DO NOT use window cleaner, alcohol, or acetone, as these chemicals will crack the acrylic. Only use cleaners compatible with acrylic.
* '''Every 8 hours of engraving''' -- Turn off and unplug the laser system.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis rails and bearing tracks'' -- cotton swabs or paper towels, and alcohol or soap solution.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis bearings'' -- After the rails and tracks are cleaned, use a clean swab or paper towel, and alcohol to clean all of the bearings by holding the swab against each bearing and moving the motion system by hand to roll the bearings against the swab. There are seven bearings in the system, three (3) on the focus carriage, two (2) on the left side of the X-rail, and two (2) on the right side of the X-rail.
** ''Clean X-axis belt''.
** ''Check beam window, #2 mirror, #3 mirror, and focus lens for debris''. Clean ONLY if dirty. Do not clean immediately after use, optics will be hot. -- Refer this step to trained personal.

* '''Every month'''
** ''Clean cooling fan filters'' -- Wash the element in a soap and water solution, dry, and re-install. If scheduling prevents filters from being washed and dried, use a dust buster to carefully vacuum dust off the filters. Be certain to replace them with the same side out that they were removed.
** ''Clean and re-lubricate Z-axis lead screws'' -- The only lubrication that may be required [on the entire laser system] is the screw threads for the table lifting mechanism. After some time, contaminants can adhere to the lubricant, which can cause the engraving table to bind up or sound squeaky. If this is the case, wipe off the contaminated grease with a soft cloth dampened with alcohol and apply fresh white lithium grease to the screw threads. NEVER SPRAY ANY DEGREASING SOLUTIONS DIRECTLY ONTO THE THREADS. Run the table up and down to work in the fresh grease. Repeat if necessary.
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis belt wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Check and/or clean X-axis and Y-axis drive gears''
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis bearing wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Inspect system for loose screws and mechanical parts'' – tighten if necessary

* '''Every 6 months'''
** ''Exhaust plenum'' -- Remove it from the system. Using your soap and water solution, clean the inside of plenum as well as the inside rear wall of the Laser System.
** ''Blower fan'' -- Check blower fan screen for loose cut material (cardboard) that may have been sucked through the exhaust system and be restricting air flow.
** ''"Bucket" Filter Cleaning'' -- Cleaning is simply a matter of stabilizing the buckets so they don't twist, unscrew the top bucket's lid, remove the filter material, take it outside and clean, dry it, refold it (air must pass through 4 layers), reinsert it. The screen on the exhaust side can be removed, and cleaned. Soaking and/or brushing may be necessary. The other screen can not be removed. When done, and screw the top on.
*** The purpose of the exhaust filter is to reduce material passing through the exhaust blower "in the attic". The blowers were getting gunked up and needed to be exchanged every 6 months or so. We attempted to use a cyclonic system last year, but it did not allow enough airflow.
*** The current setup draws air from the enclosure, through a 4 inch flexible metal duct and into the bottom bucket. When air enters the bottom bucket, the volume expands, slowing the airflow (but not the total volume, cubic feet/minute). The flow impacts a baffle and some particles should stop moving and ultimately fall. The airflow changes direction several times, which should stop more particulates. The air enters the upper bucket and passes through the filter material, catching even more particulates. There's a perforated metal panel the air goes through, then up the stack into the blower, then up another stack out the vent in the roof.
*** Flow problems can happen if the hoses get kinked or excessively dirty inside.

== Related Links ==

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2Z051TVVwaldaUGM&authuser=0 Safety Warnings]

* [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX HackerSpace's list of Laser Cutter Materials]

* [https://festi.info/boxes.py/ Boxes.py] Generate SVGs for boxes. Includes boxes with FLEXIBLE, curved sides. Many output formats are available, use svg or pdf, and avoid dxf as it seems to add unnecessary vectors.

* [http://boxmaker.connectionlab.org/ Box Maker]

* [http://www.makercase.com/ MakerCase]

* [https://www.remove.bg/ Remove Image Background]

* [https://polygonia.design/ Rapidly Create Symmetrical Designs for Manufacturing]

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ED_C4HDdXj8 Youtube video] of #sketchup plugin by Eneroth for #laser-engraver cutting and box-making. Brett Freeman writes: "Start sketchup and go to Extensions Warehouse. Search for Eneroth Laser tools. Click when you select it and then click Install."

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DYNPk58hrpItedoqooGeMAFEw2Fem7AQ Universal Laser M360 Manual]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ioIpMk8M7658dY5rWBMrSJOM7g9V62d0 Cleaning tips from Epilog Laser]

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2MGExMF9OSnppZWc&authuser=0 Orientation Slide Deck]

* [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam Universal Laser's writeup on EVA foam]

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html Cardstock and Corrugated Boxes]

* [http://www.templatemaker.nl/ Free custom paper templates]

* [http://image.online-convert.com/ Online Image Converter]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/ Engraving Systems Support, whom THS bought our laser cutter from]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/equipment-support/universal-laser-systems-support/ ESS Support, search for M360]

* [http://parts.engravingsys.com/MVX-Laser-Parts Replacement Parts and Accessories]

* [https://github.com/vanillabox/OpenSCADBoxes OpenSCAD generated flex/living-hinge boxes]

* [https://3axis.co Free Vectors for Laser Cutting]

[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Fabrication]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

Tools: Universal M360 Laser Cutter

2023-12-29T04:41:56Z

Leebc: /* Related Links */

[[File:m360.jpg|250px|thumb|right|M360 Laser Cutter]]

The Universal M360 is a flexible tool for precise cutting and etching of flat materials like acrylic plastic and thin wood.

Use of the laser cutter requires the certification class.

'''If you are unsure about any aspect of laser cutter operation, cleaning, or maintenance, please ask for help in the [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''


== Tool Description ==
Universal Laser Cutter Model M360-60
* 60 Watt CO2 laser.
* 24” x 12” (609.6 x 304.8mm) cut bed.
* Flat Cutting Table or removable Honeycomb Cutting Table.
* High speed ventilation system for evacuation of fumes and particulates during cutting.
* CorelDraw
* Uses custom Windows print driver to specify laser intensities.
* Raster and Vector modes.
* 16 MB standard memory buffer.

== Safety ==

Do not operate the laser cutter without taking the class. Do not allow others to use the laser cutter unsupervised without ensuring that they have taken the class.

'''Always''' wear safety glasses while watching the laser cutter operate. These are the laser-specific dark safety glasses near the laser cutter. Clear or dark-tinted safety glasses, sunglasses, etc. are not adequate protection. The laser used for cutting / etching is not visible to the human eye but can cause significant damage to the eye.

'''Always''' use the ventilation fan. This is turned on via a power strip on the table. Leave the ventilation fan running for some time after completing your work to draw smoke and other gases out of the space. Please turn off the ventilation fan when not in use to keep air conditioning costs down. Notify us immediately if the ventilation fan seems weaker than usual.

'''Always''' supervise the laser cutter while in operation. The risk of fire varies by material but is always there.

Be considerate of others using the space. If possible, ''please'' refrain from operating the laser cutter during or immediately before a class or other Meetup due to noise and smell.

'''Note:''' The person operating the laser cutter is responsible for ensuring the safety of others in the area. Visitors, guests, and even other members may not know proper safety procedures. Ensure that they do not watch the laser operate without safety glasses.

Be aware of the nearest fire extinguishers:

* One just to the right of the laser-cutter
* One just inside kitchen
* One by front door

== Materials (what to use, and not use, it on) ==

There are a wide variety of materials that are safe to cut and etch.

=== '''Unsafe''' Materials to Cut or Etch ===

'''Never''' cut or etch these materials. Most of these will produce toxic gases when heated.

Note that many manufactured items that seem like good candidates for etching are made of PVC.

Note that it can be quite difficult to tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic plastics. If nothing else, a small test etch or cut will help determine which plastic the item is made from.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#NEVER_CUT_THESE_MATERIALS ATX HackerSpace].

* PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
* Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
* ABS
* HDPE/milk bottle plastic
* PolyStyrene Foam
* PolyPropylene Foam
* Fiberglass
* Coated Carbon Fiber
* Teflon (PTFE)

=== Safe Materials to Cut ===

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Cutting ATX HackerSpace].

* Many woods (successfully used at THS)
* Plywood/Composite woods (successfully used at THS)
* MDF/Engineered woods
* Paper, card stock (successfully used at THS)
* Marshmallows (successfully used at THS)
* Cardboard, carton (Thick cardboard will burn - the pockets are protected from the exhaust fan and air assist and will sustain a flame) (successfully used at THS)
* Cork
* Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA (acrylic successfully used at THS)
* Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
* Delrin (POM)
* Kapton tape (Polyimide)
* Mylar
* Solid Styrene
* Depron foam
* Gator foam
* EVA foam (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam ULS])
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton
* Leather/Suede (successfully used at THS)
* Magnetic Sheet
* NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber
* Neoprene rubber (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/neoprene-rubber ULS])
* Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not had epoxy applied
* Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
* Chocolate (successfully used at THS)
* Worbla is reportedly safe to cut ( [https://www.worbla.com/?page_id=7425 Worbla.com] )

=== Safe Materials to Etch ===

Some materials can't be cut, but can be lightly etched.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Etching From ATX HackerSpace].

* Most of the above "cut-safe" materials
* Glass
* Ceramic tile
* Anodized aluminum (Read special instructions for this material)
* Painted/coated metals (Read special instructions for this material)
* Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx. (Read special instructions for this material) (successfully used at THS)

=== Selecting Materials ===

* [http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/ Identifying unknown plastics (link)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Extruded vs. Cast Acrylic]

* Materials thicker than about 1/4 inch (6mm) may not cut cleanly through due to how/where the laser beam point focuses

=== Materials Available at the Space ===

We do not currently resell materials for use with the laser cutter.

We keep a steady supply of scrap 1/4 inch plywood and acrylic sheet at the space for free use. Please donate any useful scraps and dispose of pieces that are too small to be used.

There are a number of donated pieces of other plastics, some tiles, etc. kept near the laser cutter for free use. Be aware that some of this plastic may be polycarbonate or other materials.

We have a good amount of donated matte board (scraps from framing art) that cuts well. It is kept in a lateral file below the office supplies.

=== Where to buy acrylic ===
* [http://www.farcoplastics.com/ Farco Plastics Supply] (in Clearwater) Recommended by a few of our members.
* [http://www.plasticsamerica.com/ Plastics America] (out towards Brandon.) "They price by the square foot and charge a single cut fee per order so you benefit from buying in quantity. Buying one or two pieces from them can get expensive. I think I recall the cut fee being $12ish." -- Bill
* [http://www.delviesplastics.com/ Delvie's Plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.estreetplastics.com/ e street plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.ceruleantides.com/ Cerulean Tides] (Ft. Lauderdale) "Ships same day via UPS", is usually at my door the next day."
* [https://www.engraving-supplies.com/ Trotec / engraving-supplies.com] (on line, also carries wood)

=== Where to buy wood ===

Home Depot and Lowes sell 1/4" (and some other thicknesses) plywood as "project panel" / "luan" (cheap but often has knots in middle layers that may need multiple passes or a knife/saw to cut through)

Michaels, Joann's, Blick, and others carry Midwest Products birch plywood (not cheap but look for Joann's coupons)

[https://www.cardsofwood.com/product/wood-panels/ Cards of Wood]

[https://aircraftplywood.com/products/ Aircraft Plywood] (recommended by [https://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/blog/?p=6042 Nervous Systems])

Also see: [https://wiki.tampahackerspace.com/Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood '''Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood''']

== Tool Use ==

* Videos: We have videos uploaded instructing on [https://youtu.be/hCUCX2dZWiU](removing/installing air assist cone) and [https://youtu.be/WrXSZ3RTzKs](setting the z-height)
* '''Check lens. If you have been trained in lens cleaning, Clean only if necessary (see '''Maintenance''' section below for procedures)'''
* Create a new document in CorelDraw that is 24"Wx12"H
* Load SVG or create design. Use only the 8 supported colors.
* "Print" design
** Before clicking "OK" to print, go to "Preferences" and set appropriate values for each color.
** Review information from the class on how to do this.
** Review Laser Cutter documentation and log book for what settings to use.
* Turn on the exhaust fan.
* Power on Laser Cutter.
* If air assist nozzle is installed, turn on its air
* Put masking on your material to reduce scorching. (We have a large roll of self-adhesive masking in the Laser Cutter work area.)
* Place material on the cut bed.
* Set the Z-axis height and return the focus alignment tool to it's storage location.
* Close all Laser Cutter doors.
* Press "Next ==>" on the laser cutter control panel to use the most recently printed file.
* Double check your work.
* Press "Start".
* '''Never leave the Laser Cutter unattended!'''
* When done, turn off exhaust fan, and air assist (if applicable)
* ''Write a short entry about your print job in the Log Book about who, when, what you cut, what settings you used, and the cut duration.''

== Software ==

=== Corel Draw ===
[https://www.coreldraw.com Corel Draw] [https://www.genesis-technologies.com/coreldraw-graphics-suite-2021-for-windows-download.html 2021 (Academic and Non-Profit)] is provided on the Laser Engraver workstation. The about page reports Version 23.1.0.389. It is used for job layout, as well as building vector (and other) images for cutting.

=== Inkscape ===

[https://inkscape.org/en/ Inkscape] is a free Open Source vector graphics editor that you can use to get used to the overall concept of vector based graphics design. However, be aware that there are certain issues you must face when transferring your design to the laser printer.

Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw using SVG format, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%. PDF and certain other formats do not suffer from this problem and are the preferred method of import.

''Note: As of Inkscape 0.92 the default resolution has been changed to 96dpi to match the CSS standard and now matches that of CorelDraw. The information on scaling may be needed only if using an older version of Inkscape.''

See [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Using_Inkscape_with_the_Laser_Cutter this guide] by the ATX Hackerspace for help.

=== Adobe Illustrator ===
Illustrator could be used, but specifics haven't been documented here.

=== Other ===
There are others, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_vector_graphics_editors

== Tips and Tricks ==

Since the terms are used repeatedly used in this document, here's [http://vector-conversions.com/vectorizing/raster_vs_vector.html the difference] between [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics Raster] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics Vector] images.

=== Design tips from the first class ===
* Set your page size to 24"W x 12"H.
* Placing your image at the top left corner cuts it from the top left corner.
* Keep a 1/8" margin in case the laser (or bed, or material) is slightly out of alignment.
* Vector cuts should use line widths of 0.001" or hairline. Anything wider than 0.005" will be rasterized and not cut the way you expect. You can draw with wider lines and reset them before printing in CorelDraw using "Select All" then "Object" --> "Fill And Stroke" to reset all lines to 0.001".
* Draw your "cut" lines in red, and "etch" lines in blue or green. Anything you want to rasterize should be in monochrome/greyscale. (Advanced users can use more colors for more things...but if you know enough to do this, then you don't need to be told how.)
* Lines with colors not set to 255 for any RGB value or less than 100% opacity will be treated as black and rasterized or worse, ignored, by the print driver.[SIC] Don't use color models other than RGB.
* '''Problem''': I created an SVG in Inkscape but when I import it into CorelDraw it's the wrong size. --- Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%

=== Other tips members have learned ===

* CorelDraw lets you do math inside the size entry fields. For example, if you have a Width that is 4.228 in, you can append to that "+1.25" and CorelDraw will change the value to 5.478 in. Furthermore, you can enter values in either "standard" or metric units and CorelDraw will recalculate the value in the document's default units. For example: if the document is set to inches and you entered "65mm" CorelDraw will do the calculation and set the value to 2.5590 inches.

* If you realize you forgot to turn on the vent, you should quickly turn on the vent! But it's better to not forget to turn it on in the first place.

* It may be helpful to use the restroom/get a drink/stretch/etc before starting a particular long (complex) job. DO NOT leave laser cutter unattended while cutting or etching.

* You can use scrap material (pieces that have already been cut) to test out a design, or for a finished piece if it is the right size. There is a bin of "scrap material" kept near the laser cutter.

* Etching a large section of thin acrylic will cause warping.

* If you are etching an oddly shaped and curved surface (for example a pumpkin), try setting the Z-height to the "median" (middle) height you are etching.

* Refer to the following table for spot sizes (the width of the cut, or "kerf") and focal ranges of the lenses available. (Note: The Tampa Hackerspace only has the 2.0 lens, the others are presented for completeness.)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| FOCAL LENGTH
| SPOT SIZE
| FOCAL RANGE
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 1.5 “
| .003 “
| + / - .075 “
|-
| 2.0 “
| .005 “
| + / - .100 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 2.5 “
| .007 “
| + / - .125 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 4.0 “
| .013 “
| + / - .200 “
|}

* You can use the "pointer" mode to "proof" a design. If the any of the doors are open, the red light on the control panel will flash. If you press "Start" to run your job in this state, the job will begin and will trace out the entire design, HOWEVER, the standard invisible CO2 laser will be replaced with a red pointer dot (laser diode). This will let you test your layout and will calculate the job time. Be careful though, the red dot will be close, but not exactly where the laser will cut.

* You can use the X-Y mode to find positions on the print bed. Press the "X-Y" button and use the arrow pad to move the red pointer. The LCD displays the current x,y coordinates under the pointer. These coordinates can be used to position a work piece, and the values entered into CorelDraw. Use the up-down arrows and "Select" to choose "Re-home pointer" when finished. (Check the manual, linked below, for a more through explanation.)

* After the first time a job is run (including "pointer" test run mentioned above), during subsequent runs of the same job the control panel timer will change from a "count-up" timer to a "count-down" timer, telling you how much time remains on your job.

* You can press the "Pause" button on the control panel to pause your job. The laser cutter will finish the current line, then return the head to home. If it's in the middle of a raster, this will happen almost immediately, BUT if it's in the middle of a long cut line, the line will finish first. This may take several seconds. Your job can be resumed where it left off by pressing the "Resume" button. There may be a slight offset when resuming a job, especially if the system was in the middle of a raster. "Wait for the motion system to stop and move to the home position before opening any door otherwise the laser beam will not resume from the position it stopped at."

* Rastering an image on a full 24"x12" (width x height) piece of wood at the recommended settings of [Power 100, Speed 59, 500PPI ] will take 45-55 minutes. On a 24"x6" board, it will take about half that time. On a 12"x12" board, it will take about 10% less time than the full 24", so 40-50 minutes. For fastest raster time, orient your image so the longest dimension is aligned with the X axis.

=== Photo-quality raster images ===
'''Photo-quality raster images can be etched''' on material at high DPI(dots-per-inch)/PPI(pulses-per-inch). For example at 500 PPI on Acrylic.
* Open your image in [http://www.gimp.org/ The GIMP] or another program capable of editing photos. (CorelDraw doesn't support all the features we need.)
In GIMP:
* Click on "Image" --> "Mode" --> "Grayscale" to convert color to greyscale.
* Click on "Image" --> "Print Size" and set the X and Y Resolutions to the desired value (500 pixels/in).
* If you want to invert the grays (change black to white and white to black), click on "Colors" --> "Invert". The black portions are what will be etched. I recommend etching less instead of more; etching a large section of acrylic black will cause warping.
* If you need to adjust the gray levels, you can tweak the values using:
** "Colors" --> "Levels" OR
** "Colors" --> "Curves", You'll have to play around with these settings.
* Save your image with a new name and as a JPG or PNG.

=== Cleaning Acrylic Cuts ===

* Do not clean laser-cut acrylic with alcohol. "There is residual stress in a laser cut edge. The solvent breaks bonds and lets the plastic release the stress by cracking."--Wesley Faler.
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU9Ty0L0g7E What happens when you put alcohol on acrylic (short video)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Ammonia / Windex is also not recommended for cleaning]

* For masking paper adhesive residue, some (untested) suggestions are Goo Gone, WD-40, mineral oil, naptha, or even cooking oil

=== Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver ===
You can use the machine to directly measure on your material. See [[Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver]].

== Common Problems ==

=== My job didn't cut ===
'''Problem''': My design is in CorelDraw but all or a portion didn't cut.
Some causes of this include:
* The line thickness was not set to "hairline" or 0.001" inches and was ignored. (This color set to only "Vector" cut.)
* The line color is not one of the basic colors supported and was ignored.
* Driver setting for this chosen color set to "Skip".
* Driver set incorrectly to "Raster" or incorrectly to "Vector".
* Driver power level set to 0.
* Design is outside the 24" by 12" cut area.
* Design has transparency. This may manifest as vector lines rastering instead. Select the offending lines and set to "No Transparency" in the Object Properties.
* If a CorelDraw document has multiple pages (see tabs at bottom of Corel window) and you print "Current Document" then each page will be sent to the laser engraver as a SEPARATE job. If a page is blank, it will STILL be sent, and will show up as a 0 power 0 speed job. Press the "Next >>" button to skip that blank job. NOTE: this may cause difficulty managing multiple jobs on the laser engraver, so avoid this situation by not printing blank pages.

=== My cut or etch isn't deep enough ===
'''Problem''': My cut or etch isn't deep enough.

Without moving anything or changing any settings, you can press "Start" again and the exact same job will be run a second time, cutting in the exact same places if the work piece hasn't been moved. If your material is too thick, the laser may not be focused correctly to cut all the way through. You might be able to fix this by adjusting the Z-axis slightly lower.

== Maintenance ==

'''Refer maintenance to qualified personnel. If no qualified personal are on-site, post in [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0H6JEBK6 #broken] and/or [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''

'''Lens'''
See [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/team/leebc Bryan Lee] for training on lens cleaning procedure. Otherwise, follow [https://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=YiN3J2WShQY this procedure].

''Maintenance Schedule and Summary'' (From the manual)

Since the maintenance requirements of the laser system is dependent on the type of material being run, the quantity of material being removed, the hours of operation, and the quality of the exhaust blower, it must be user defined. As a starting point, we recommend the following schedule:
* '''As necessary'''
** ''Engraving table'' -- soap solution, or alcohol or acetone, and paper towels.
** ''Main enclosure'' -- vacuum loose debris. Use soft cloth or paper towels and the soap solution to clean the enclosure.
** ''Top door window'' -- cotton cloth and the soap solution. The top window is made out of acrylic. DO NOT use paper towels because they will scratch the acrylic. Also, DO NOT use window cleaner, alcohol, or acetone, as these chemicals will crack the acrylic. Only use cleaners compatible with acrylic.
* '''Every 8 hours of engraving''' -- Turn off and unplug the laser system.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis rails and bearing tracks'' -- cotton swabs or paper towels, and alcohol or soap solution.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis bearings'' -- After the rails and tracks are cleaned, use a clean swab or paper towel, and alcohol to clean all of the bearings by holding the swab against each bearing and moving the motion system by hand to roll the bearings against the swab. There are seven bearings in the system, three (3) on the focus carriage, two (2) on the left side of the X-rail, and two (2) on the right side of the X-rail.
** ''Clean X-axis belt''.
** ''Check beam window, #2 mirror, #3 mirror, and focus lens for debris''. Clean ONLY if dirty. Do not clean immediately after use, optics will be hot. -- Refer this step to trained personal.

* '''Every month'''
** ''Clean cooling fan filters'' -- Wash the element in a soap and water solution, dry, and re-install. If scheduling prevents filters from being washed and dried, use a dust buster to carefully vacuum dust off the filters. Be certain to replace them with the same side out that they were removed.
** ''Clean and re-lubricate Z-axis lead screws'' -- The only lubrication that may be required [on the entire laser system] is the screw threads for the table lifting mechanism. After some time, contaminants can adhere to the lubricant, which can cause the engraving table to bind up or sound squeaky. If this is the case, wipe off the contaminated grease with a soft cloth dampened with alcohol and apply fresh white lithium grease to the screw threads. NEVER SPRAY ANY DEGREASING SOLUTIONS DIRECTLY ONTO THE THREADS. Run the table up and down to work in the fresh grease. Repeat if necessary.
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis belt wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Check and/or clean X-axis and Y-axis drive gears''
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis bearing wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Inspect system for loose screws and mechanical parts'' – tighten if necessary

* '''Every 6 months'''
** ''Exhaust plenum'' -- Remove it from the system. Using your soap and water solution, clean the inside of plenum as well as the inside rear wall of the Laser System.
** ''Blower fan'' -- Check blower fan screen for loose cut material (cardboard) that may have been sucked through the exhaust system and be restricting air flow.
** ''"Bucket" Filter Cleaning'' -- Cleaning is simply a matter of stabilizing the buckets so they don't twist, unscrew the top bucket's lid, remove the filter material, take it outside and clean, dry it, refold it (air must pass through 4 layers), reinsert it. The screen on the exhaust side can be removed, and cleaned. Soaking and/or brushing may be necessary. The other screen can not be removed. When done, and screw the top on.
*** The purpose of the exhaust filter is to reduce material passing through the exhaust blower "in the attic". The blowers were getting gunked up and needed to be exchanged every 6 months or so. We attempted to use a cyclonic system last year, but it did not allow enough airflow.
*** The current setup draws air from the enclosure, through a 4 inch flexible metal duct and into the bottom bucket. When air enters the bottom bucket, the volume expands, slowing the airflow (but not the total volume, cubic feet/minute). The flow impacts a baffle and some particles should stop moving and ultimately fall. The airflow changes direction several times, which should stop more particulates. The air enters the upper bucket and passes through the filter material, catching even more particulates. There's a perforated metal panel the air goes through, then up the stack into the blower, then up another stack out the vent in the roof.
*** Flow problems can happen if the hoses get kinked or excessively dirty inside.

== Related Links ==

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2Z051TVVwaldaUGM&authuser=0 Safety Warnings]

* [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX HackerSpace's list of Laser Cutter Materials]

* [https://festi.info/boxes.py/ Boxes.py] Generate SVGs for boxes. Includes boxes with FLEXIBLE, curved sides. Many output formats are available, use svg or pdf, and avoid dxf as it seems to add unnecessary vectors.

* [http://boxmaker.connectionlab.org/ Box Maker]

* [http://www.makercase.com/ MakerCase]

* [https://www.remove.bg/ Remove Image Background]

* [https://polygonia.design/ Rapidly Create Symmetrical Designs for Manufacturing]

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ED_C4HDdXj8 Youtube video] of #sketchup plugin by Eneroth for #laser-engraver cutting and box-making

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DYNPk58hrpItedoqooGeMAFEw2Fem7AQ Universal Laser M360 Manual]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ioIpMk8M7658dY5rWBMrSJOM7g9V62d0 Cleaning tips from Epilog Laser]

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2MGExMF9OSnppZWc&authuser=0 Orientation Slide Deck]

* [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam Universal Laser's writeup on EVA foam]

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html Cardstock and Corrugated Boxes]

* [http://www.templatemaker.nl/ Free custom paper templates]

* [http://image.online-convert.com/ Online Image Converter]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/ Engraving Systems Support, whom THS bought our laser cutter from]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/equipment-support/universal-laser-systems-support/ ESS Support, search for M360]

* [http://parts.engravingsys.com/MVX-Laser-Parts Replacement Parts and Accessories]

* [https://github.com/vanillabox/OpenSCADBoxes OpenSCAD generated flex/living-hinge boxes]

* [https://3axis.co Free Vectors for Laser Cutting]

[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Fabrication]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

Tools: Universal M360 Laser Cutter

2023-12-29T04:41:23Z

Leebc: /* Related Links */ Added link to you tube for sketchup plugin for lasercutting/box making. This should be corrected with link to the plugin itself, which i was not able to find.

[[File:m360.jpg|250px|thumb|right|M360 Laser Cutter]]

The Universal M360 is a flexible tool for precise cutting and etching of flat materials like acrylic plastic and thin wood.

Use of the laser cutter requires the certification class.

'''If you are unsure about any aspect of laser cutter operation, cleaning, or maintenance, please ask for help in the [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''


== Tool Description ==
Universal Laser Cutter Model M360-60
* 60 Watt CO2 laser.
* 24” x 12” (609.6 x 304.8mm) cut bed.
* Flat Cutting Table or removable Honeycomb Cutting Table.
* High speed ventilation system for evacuation of fumes and particulates during cutting.
* CorelDraw
* Uses custom Windows print driver to specify laser intensities.
* Raster and Vector modes.
* 16 MB standard memory buffer.

== Safety ==

Do not operate the laser cutter without taking the class. Do not allow others to use the laser cutter unsupervised without ensuring that they have taken the class.

'''Always''' wear safety glasses while watching the laser cutter operate. These are the laser-specific dark safety glasses near the laser cutter. Clear or dark-tinted safety glasses, sunglasses, etc. are not adequate protection. The laser used for cutting / etching is not visible to the human eye but can cause significant damage to the eye.

'''Always''' use the ventilation fan. This is turned on via a power strip on the table. Leave the ventilation fan running for some time after completing your work to draw smoke and other gases out of the space. Please turn off the ventilation fan when not in use to keep air conditioning costs down. Notify us immediately if the ventilation fan seems weaker than usual.

'''Always''' supervise the laser cutter while in operation. The risk of fire varies by material but is always there.

Be considerate of others using the space. If possible, ''please'' refrain from operating the laser cutter during or immediately before a class or other Meetup due to noise and smell.

'''Note:''' The person operating the laser cutter is responsible for ensuring the safety of others in the area. Visitors, guests, and even other members may not know proper safety procedures. Ensure that they do not watch the laser operate without safety glasses.

Be aware of the nearest fire extinguishers:

* One just to the right of the laser-cutter
* One just inside kitchen
* One by front door

== Materials (what to use, and not use, it on) ==

There are a wide variety of materials that are safe to cut and etch.

=== '''Unsafe''' Materials to Cut or Etch ===

'''Never''' cut or etch these materials. Most of these will produce toxic gases when heated.

Note that many manufactured items that seem like good candidates for etching are made of PVC.

Note that it can be quite difficult to tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic plastics. If nothing else, a small test etch or cut will help determine which plastic the item is made from.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#NEVER_CUT_THESE_MATERIALS ATX HackerSpace].

* PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
* Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
* ABS
* HDPE/milk bottle plastic
* PolyStyrene Foam
* PolyPropylene Foam
* Fiberglass
* Coated Carbon Fiber
* Teflon (PTFE)

=== Safe Materials to Cut ===

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Cutting ATX HackerSpace].

* Many woods (successfully used at THS)
* Plywood/Composite woods (successfully used at THS)
* MDF/Engineered woods
* Paper, card stock (successfully used at THS)
* Marshmallows (successfully used at THS)
* Cardboard, carton (Thick cardboard will burn - the pockets are protected from the exhaust fan and air assist and will sustain a flame) (successfully used at THS)
* Cork
* Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA (acrylic successfully used at THS)
* Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
* Delrin (POM)
* Kapton tape (Polyimide)
* Mylar
* Solid Styrene
* Depron foam
* Gator foam
* EVA foam (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam ULS])
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton
* Leather/Suede (successfully used at THS)
* Magnetic Sheet
* NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber
* Neoprene rubber (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/neoprene-rubber ULS])
* Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not had epoxy applied
* Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
* Chocolate (successfully used at THS)
* Worbla is reportedly safe to cut ( [https://www.worbla.com/?page_id=7425 Worbla.com] )

=== Safe Materials to Etch ===

Some materials can't be cut, but can be lightly etched.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Etching From ATX HackerSpace].

* Most of the above "cut-safe" materials
* Glass
* Ceramic tile
* Anodized aluminum (Read special instructions for this material)
* Painted/coated metals (Read special instructions for this material)
* Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx. (Read special instructions for this material) (successfully used at THS)

=== Selecting Materials ===

* [http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/ Identifying unknown plastics (link)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Extruded vs. Cast Acrylic]

* Materials thicker than about 1/4 inch (6mm) may not cut cleanly through due to how/where the laser beam point focuses

=== Materials Available at the Space ===

We do not currently resell materials for use with the laser cutter.

We keep a steady supply of scrap 1/4 inch plywood and acrylic sheet at the space for free use. Please donate any useful scraps and dispose of pieces that are too small to be used.

There are a number of donated pieces of other plastics, some tiles, etc. kept near the laser cutter for free use. Be aware that some of this plastic may be polycarbonate or other materials.

We have a good amount of donated matte board (scraps from framing art) that cuts well. It is kept in a lateral file below the office supplies.

=== Where to buy acrylic ===
* [http://www.farcoplastics.com/ Farco Plastics Supply] (in Clearwater) Recommended by a few of our members.
* [http://www.plasticsamerica.com/ Plastics America] (out towards Brandon.) "They price by the square foot and charge a single cut fee per order so you benefit from buying in quantity. Buying one or two pieces from them can get expensive. I think I recall the cut fee being $12ish." -- Bill
* [http://www.delviesplastics.com/ Delvie's Plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.estreetplastics.com/ e street plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.ceruleantides.com/ Cerulean Tides] (Ft. Lauderdale) "Ships same day via UPS", is usually at my door the next day."
* [https://www.engraving-supplies.com/ Trotec / engraving-supplies.com] (on line, also carries wood)

=== Where to buy wood ===

Home Depot and Lowes sell 1/4" (and some other thicknesses) plywood as "project panel" / "luan" (cheap but often has knots in middle layers that may need multiple passes or a knife/saw to cut through)

Michaels, Joann's, Blick, and others carry Midwest Products birch plywood (not cheap but look for Joann's coupons)

[https://www.cardsofwood.com/product/wood-panels/ Cards of Wood]

[https://aircraftplywood.com/products/ Aircraft Plywood] (recommended by [https://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/blog/?p=6042 Nervous Systems])

Also see: [https://wiki.tampahackerspace.com/Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood '''Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood''']

== Tool Use ==

* Videos: We have videos uploaded instructing on [https://youtu.be/hCUCX2dZWiU](removing/installing air assist cone) and [https://youtu.be/WrXSZ3RTzKs](setting the z-height)
* '''Check lens. If you have been trained in lens cleaning, Clean only if necessary (see '''Maintenance''' section below for procedures)'''
* Create a new document in CorelDraw that is 24"Wx12"H
* Load SVG or create design. Use only the 8 supported colors.
* "Print" design
** Before clicking "OK" to print, go to "Preferences" and set appropriate values for each color.
** Review information from the class on how to do this.
** Review Laser Cutter documentation and log book for what settings to use.
* Turn on the exhaust fan.
* Power on Laser Cutter.
* If air assist nozzle is installed, turn on its air
* Put masking on your material to reduce scorching. (We have a large roll of self-adhesive masking in the Laser Cutter work area.)
* Place material on the cut bed.
* Set the Z-axis height and return the focus alignment tool to it's storage location.
* Close all Laser Cutter doors.
* Press "Next ==>" on the laser cutter control panel to use the most recently printed file.
* Double check your work.
* Press "Start".
* '''Never leave the Laser Cutter unattended!'''
* When done, turn off exhaust fan, and air assist (if applicable)
* ''Write a short entry about your print job in the Log Book about who, when, what you cut, what settings you used, and the cut duration.''

== Software ==

=== Corel Draw ===
[https://www.coreldraw.com Corel Draw] [https://www.genesis-technologies.com/coreldraw-graphics-suite-2021-for-windows-download.html 2021 (Academic and Non-Profit)] is provided on the Laser Engraver workstation. The about page reports Version 23.1.0.389. It is used for job layout, as well as building vector (and other) images for cutting.

=== Inkscape ===

[https://inkscape.org/en/ Inkscape] is a free Open Source vector graphics editor that you can use to get used to the overall concept of vector based graphics design. However, be aware that there are certain issues you must face when transferring your design to the laser printer.

Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw using SVG format, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%. PDF and certain other formats do not suffer from this problem and are the preferred method of import.

''Note: As of Inkscape 0.92 the default resolution has been changed to 96dpi to match the CSS standard and now matches that of CorelDraw. The information on scaling may be needed only if using an older version of Inkscape.''

See [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Using_Inkscape_with_the_Laser_Cutter this guide] by the ATX Hackerspace for help.

=== Adobe Illustrator ===
Illustrator could be used, but specifics haven't been documented here.

=== Other ===
There are others, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_vector_graphics_editors

== Tips and Tricks ==

Since the terms are used repeatedly used in this document, here's [http://vector-conversions.com/vectorizing/raster_vs_vector.html the difference] between [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics Raster] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics Vector] images.

=== Design tips from the first class ===
* Set your page size to 24"W x 12"H.
* Placing your image at the top left corner cuts it from the top left corner.
* Keep a 1/8" margin in case the laser (or bed, or material) is slightly out of alignment.
* Vector cuts should use line widths of 0.001" or hairline. Anything wider than 0.005" will be rasterized and not cut the way you expect. You can draw with wider lines and reset them before printing in CorelDraw using "Select All" then "Object" --> "Fill And Stroke" to reset all lines to 0.001".
* Draw your "cut" lines in red, and "etch" lines in blue or green. Anything you want to rasterize should be in monochrome/greyscale. (Advanced users can use more colors for more things...but if you know enough to do this, then you don't need to be told how.)
* Lines with colors not set to 255 for any RGB value or less than 100% opacity will be treated as black and rasterized or worse, ignored, by the print driver.[SIC] Don't use color models other than RGB.
* '''Problem''': I created an SVG in Inkscape but when I import it into CorelDraw it's the wrong size. --- Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%

=== Other tips members have learned ===

* CorelDraw lets you do math inside the size entry fields. For example, if you have a Width that is 4.228 in, you can append to that "+1.25" and CorelDraw will change the value to 5.478 in. Furthermore, you can enter values in either "standard" or metric units and CorelDraw will recalculate the value in the document's default units. For example: if the document is set to inches and you entered "65mm" CorelDraw will do the calculation and set the value to 2.5590 inches.

* If you realize you forgot to turn on the vent, you should quickly turn on the vent! But it's better to not forget to turn it on in the first place.

* It may be helpful to use the restroom/get a drink/stretch/etc before starting a particular long (complex) job. DO NOT leave laser cutter unattended while cutting or etching.

* You can use scrap material (pieces that have already been cut) to test out a design, or for a finished piece if it is the right size. There is a bin of "scrap material" kept near the laser cutter.

* Etching a large section of thin acrylic will cause warping.

* If you are etching an oddly shaped and curved surface (for example a pumpkin), try setting the Z-height to the "median" (middle) height you are etching.

* Refer to the following table for spot sizes (the width of the cut, or "kerf") and focal ranges of the lenses available. (Note: The Tampa Hackerspace only has the 2.0 lens, the others are presented for completeness.)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| FOCAL LENGTH
| SPOT SIZE
| FOCAL RANGE
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 1.5 “
| .003 “
| + / - .075 “
|-
| 2.0 “
| .005 “
| + / - .100 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 2.5 “
| .007 “
| + / - .125 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 4.0 “
| .013 “
| + / - .200 “
|}

* You can use the "pointer" mode to "proof" a design. If the any of the doors are open, the red light on the control panel will flash. If you press "Start" to run your job in this state, the job will begin and will trace out the entire design, HOWEVER, the standard invisible CO2 laser will be replaced with a red pointer dot (laser diode). This will let you test your layout and will calculate the job time. Be careful though, the red dot will be close, but not exactly where the laser will cut.

* You can use the X-Y mode to find positions on the print bed. Press the "X-Y" button and use the arrow pad to move the red pointer. The LCD displays the current x,y coordinates under the pointer. These coordinates can be used to position a work piece, and the values entered into CorelDraw. Use the up-down arrows and "Select" to choose "Re-home pointer" when finished. (Check the manual, linked below, for a more through explanation.)

* After the first time a job is run (including "pointer" test run mentioned above), during subsequent runs of the same job the control panel timer will change from a "count-up" timer to a "count-down" timer, telling you how much time remains on your job.

* You can press the "Pause" button on the control panel to pause your job. The laser cutter will finish the current line, then return the head to home. If it's in the middle of a raster, this will happen almost immediately, BUT if it's in the middle of a long cut line, the line will finish first. This may take several seconds. Your job can be resumed where it left off by pressing the "Resume" button. There may be a slight offset when resuming a job, especially if the system was in the middle of a raster. "Wait for the motion system to stop and move to the home position before opening any door otherwise the laser beam will not resume from the position it stopped at."

* Rastering an image on a full 24"x12" (width x height) piece of wood at the recommended settings of [Power 100, Speed 59, 500PPI ] will take 45-55 minutes. On a 24"x6" board, it will take about half that time. On a 12"x12" board, it will take about 10% less time than the full 24", so 40-50 minutes. For fastest raster time, orient your image so the longest dimension is aligned with the X axis.

=== Photo-quality raster images ===
'''Photo-quality raster images can be etched''' on material at high DPI(dots-per-inch)/PPI(pulses-per-inch). For example at 500 PPI on Acrylic.
* Open your image in [http://www.gimp.org/ The GIMP] or another program capable of editing photos. (CorelDraw doesn't support all the features we need.)
In GIMP:
* Click on "Image" --> "Mode" --> "Grayscale" to convert color to greyscale.
* Click on "Image" --> "Print Size" and set the X and Y Resolutions to the desired value (500 pixels/in).
* If you want to invert the grays (change black to white and white to black), click on "Colors" --> "Invert". The black portions are what will be etched. I recommend etching less instead of more; etching a large section of acrylic black will cause warping.
* If you need to adjust the gray levels, you can tweak the values using:
** "Colors" --> "Levels" OR
** "Colors" --> "Curves", You'll have to play around with these settings.
* Save your image with a new name and as a JPG or PNG.

=== Cleaning Acrylic Cuts ===

* Do not clean laser-cut acrylic with alcohol. "There is residual stress in a laser cut edge. The solvent breaks bonds and lets the plastic release the stress by cracking."--Wesley Faler.
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU9Ty0L0g7E What happens when you put alcohol on acrylic (short video)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Ammonia / Windex is also not recommended for cleaning]

* For masking paper adhesive residue, some (untested) suggestions are Goo Gone, WD-40, mineral oil, naptha, or even cooking oil

=== Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver ===
You can use the machine to directly measure on your material. See [[Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver]].

== Common Problems ==

=== My job didn't cut ===
'''Problem''': My design is in CorelDraw but all or a portion didn't cut.
Some causes of this include:
* The line thickness was not set to "hairline" or 0.001" inches and was ignored. (This color set to only "Vector" cut.)
* The line color is not one of the basic colors supported and was ignored.
* Driver setting for this chosen color set to "Skip".
* Driver set incorrectly to "Raster" or incorrectly to "Vector".
* Driver power level set to 0.
* Design is outside the 24" by 12" cut area.
* Design has transparency. This may manifest as vector lines rastering instead. Select the offending lines and set to "No Transparency" in the Object Properties.
* If a CorelDraw document has multiple pages (see tabs at bottom of Corel window) and you print "Current Document" then each page will be sent to the laser engraver as a SEPARATE job. If a page is blank, it will STILL be sent, and will show up as a 0 power 0 speed job. Press the "Next >>" button to skip that blank job. NOTE: this may cause difficulty managing multiple jobs on the laser engraver, so avoid this situation by not printing blank pages.

=== My cut or etch isn't deep enough ===
'''Problem''': My cut or etch isn't deep enough.

Without moving anything or changing any settings, you can press "Start" again and the exact same job will be run a second time, cutting in the exact same places if the work piece hasn't been moved. If your material is too thick, the laser may not be focused correctly to cut all the way through. You might be able to fix this by adjusting the Z-axis slightly lower.

== Maintenance ==

'''Refer maintenance to qualified personnel. If no qualified personal are on-site, post in [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0H6JEBK6 #broken] and/or [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''

'''Lens'''
See [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/team/leebc Bryan Lee] for training on lens cleaning procedure. Otherwise, follow [https://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=YiN3J2WShQY this procedure].

''Maintenance Schedule and Summary'' (From the manual)

Since the maintenance requirements of the laser system is dependent on the type of material being run, the quantity of material being removed, the hours of operation, and the quality of the exhaust blower, it must be user defined. As a starting point, we recommend the following schedule:
* '''As necessary'''
** ''Engraving table'' -- soap solution, or alcohol or acetone, and paper towels.
** ''Main enclosure'' -- vacuum loose debris. Use soft cloth or paper towels and the soap solution to clean the enclosure.
** ''Top door window'' -- cotton cloth and the soap solution. The top window is made out of acrylic. DO NOT use paper towels because they will scratch the acrylic. Also, DO NOT use window cleaner, alcohol, or acetone, as these chemicals will crack the acrylic. Only use cleaners compatible with acrylic.
* '''Every 8 hours of engraving''' -- Turn off and unplug the laser system.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis rails and bearing tracks'' -- cotton swabs or paper towels, and alcohol or soap solution.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis bearings'' -- After the rails and tracks are cleaned, use a clean swab or paper towel, and alcohol to clean all of the bearings by holding the swab against each bearing and moving the motion system by hand to roll the bearings against the swab. There are seven bearings in the system, three (3) on the focus carriage, two (2) on the left side of the X-rail, and two (2) on the right side of the X-rail.
** ''Clean X-axis belt''.
** ''Check beam window, #2 mirror, #3 mirror, and focus lens for debris''. Clean ONLY if dirty. Do not clean immediately after use, optics will be hot. -- Refer this step to trained personal.

* '''Every month'''
** ''Clean cooling fan filters'' -- Wash the element in a soap and water solution, dry, and re-install. If scheduling prevents filters from being washed and dried, use a dust buster to carefully vacuum dust off the filters. Be certain to replace them with the same side out that they were removed.
** ''Clean and re-lubricate Z-axis lead screws'' -- The only lubrication that may be required [on the entire laser system] is the screw threads for the table lifting mechanism. After some time, contaminants can adhere to the lubricant, which can cause the engraving table to bind up or sound squeaky. If this is the case, wipe off the contaminated grease with a soft cloth dampened with alcohol and apply fresh white lithium grease to the screw threads. NEVER SPRAY ANY DEGREASING SOLUTIONS DIRECTLY ONTO THE THREADS. Run the table up and down to work in the fresh grease. Repeat if necessary.
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis belt wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Check and/or clean X-axis and Y-axis drive gears''
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis bearing wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Inspect system for loose screws and mechanical parts'' – tighten if necessary

* '''Every 6 months'''
** ''Exhaust plenum'' -- Remove it from the system. Using your soap and water solution, clean the inside of plenum as well as the inside rear wall of the Laser System.
** ''Blower fan'' -- Check blower fan screen for loose cut material (cardboard) that may have been sucked through the exhaust system and be restricting air flow.
** ''"Bucket" Filter Cleaning'' -- Cleaning is simply a matter of stabilizing the buckets so they don't twist, unscrew the top bucket's lid, remove the filter material, take it outside and clean, dry it, refold it (air must pass through 4 layers), reinsert it. The screen on the exhaust side can be removed, and cleaned. Soaking and/or brushing may be necessary. The other screen can not be removed. When done, and screw the top on.
*** The purpose of the exhaust filter is to reduce material passing through the exhaust blower "in the attic". The blowers were getting gunked up and needed to be exchanged every 6 months or so. We attempted to use a cyclonic system last year, but it did not allow enough airflow.
*** The current setup draws air from the enclosure, through a 4 inch flexible metal duct and into the bottom bucket. When air enters the bottom bucket, the volume expands, slowing the airflow (but not the total volume, cubic feet/minute). The flow impacts a baffle and some particles should stop moving and ultimately fall. The airflow changes direction several times, which should stop more particulates. The air enters the upper bucket and passes through the filter material, catching even more particulates. There's a perforated metal panel the air goes through, then up the stack into the blower, then up another stack out the vent in the roof.
*** Flow problems can happen if the hoses get kinked or excessively dirty inside.

== Related Links ==

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2Z051TVVwaldaUGM&authuser=0 Safety Warnings]

* [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX HackerSpace's list of Laser Cutter Materials]

* [https://festi.info/boxes.py/ Boxes.py] Generate SVGs for boxes. Includes boxes with FLEXIBLE, curved sides. Many output formats are available, use svg or pdf, and avoid dxf as it seems to add unnecessary vectors.

* [http://boxmaker.connectionlab.org/ Box Maker]

* [http://www.makercase.com/ MakerCase]

* [https://www.remove.bg/ Remove Image Background]

* [https://polygonia.design/ Rapidly Create Symmetrical Designs for Manufacturing]

* [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ED_C4HDdXj8 #sketchup plugin by Eneroth for #laser-engraver cutting and box-making ]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DYNPk58hrpItedoqooGeMAFEw2Fem7AQ Universal Laser M360 Manual]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ioIpMk8M7658dY5rWBMrSJOM7g9V62d0 Cleaning tips from Epilog Laser]

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2MGExMF9OSnppZWc&authuser=0 Orientation Slide Deck]

* [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam Universal Laser's writeup on EVA foam]

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html Cardstock and Corrugated Boxes]

* [http://www.templatemaker.nl/ Free custom paper templates]

* [http://image.online-convert.com/ Online Image Converter]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/ Engraving Systems Support, whom THS bought our laser cutter from]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/equipment-support/universal-laser-systems-support/ ESS Support, search for M360]

* [http://parts.engravingsys.com/MVX-Laser-Parts Replacement Parts and Accessories]

* [https://github.com/vanillabox/OpenSCADBoxes OpenSCAD generated flex/living-hinge boxes]

* [https://3axis.co Free Vectors for Laser Cutting]

[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Fabrication]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

Tools: Universal M360 Laser Cutter

2023-10-29T06:19:44Z

Leebc: /* Safe Materials to Cut */

[[File:m360.jpg|250px|thumb|right|M360 Laser Cutter]]

The Universal M360 is a flexible tool for precise cutting and etching of flat materials like acrylic plastic and thin wood.

Use of the laser cutter requires the certification class.

'''If you are unsure about any aspect of laser cutter operation, cleaning, or maintenance, please ask for help in the [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''


== Tool Description ==
Universal Laser Cutter Model M360-60
* 60 Watt CO2 laser.
* 24” x 12” (609.6 x 304.8mm) cut bed.
* Flat Cutting Table or removable Honeycomb Cutting Table.
* High speed ventilation system for evacuation of fumes and particulates during cutting.
* CorelDraw
* Uses custom Windows print driver to specify laser intensities.
* Raster and Vector modes.
* 16 MB standard memory buffer.

== Safety ==

Do not operate the laser cutter without taking the class. Do not allow others to use the laser cutter unsupervised without ensuring that they have taken the class.

'''Always''' wear safety glasses while watching the laser cutter operate. These are the laser-specific dark safety glasses near the laser cutter. Clear or dark-tinted safety glasses, sunglasses, etc. are not adequate protection. The laser used for cutting / etching is not visible to the human eye but can cause significant damage to the eye.

'''Always''' use the ventilation fan. This is turned on via a power strip on the table. Leave the ventilation fan running for some time after completing your work to draw smoke and other gases out of the space. Please turn off the ventilation fan when not in use to keep air conditioning costs down. Notify us immediately if the ventilation fan seems weaker than usual.

'''Always''' supervise the laser cutter while in operation. The risk of fire varies by material but is always there.

Be considerate of others using the space. If possible, ''please'' refrain from operating the laser cutter during or immediately before a class or other Meetup due to noise and smell.

'''Note:''' The person operating the laser cutter is responsible for ensuring the safety of others in the area. Visitors, guests, and even other members may not know proper safety procedures. Ensure that they do not watch the laser operate without safety glasses.

Be aware of the nearest fire extinguishers:

* One just to the right of the laser-cutter
* One just inside kitchen
* One by front door

== Materials (what to use, and not use, it on) ==

There are a wide variety of materials that are safe to cut and etch.

=== '''Unsafe''' Materials to Cut or Etch ===

'''Never''' cut or etch these materials. Most of these will produce toxic gases when heated.

Note that many manufactured items that seem like good candidates for etching are made of PVC.

Note that it can be quite difficult to tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic plastics. If nothing else, a small test etch or cut will help determine which plastic the item is made from.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#NEVER_CUT_THESE_MATERIALS ATX HackerSpace].

* PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
* Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
* ABS
* HDPE/milk bottle plastic
* PolyStyrene Foam
* PolyPropylene Foam
* Fiberglass
* Coated Carbon Fiber
* Teflon (PTFE)

=== Safe Materials to Cut ===

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Cutting ATX HackerSpace].

* Many woods (successfully used at THS)
* Plywood/Composite woods (successfully used at THS)
* MDF/Engineered woods
* Paper, card stock (successfully used at THS)
* Marshmallows (successfully used at THS)
* Cardboard, carton (Thick cardboard will burn - the pockets are protected from the exhaust fan and air assist and will sustain a flame) (successfully used at THS)
* Cork
* Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA (acrylic successfully used at THS)
* Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
* Delrin (POM)
* Kapton tape (Polyimide)
* Mylar
* Solid Styrene
* Depron foam
* Gator foam
* EVA foam (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam ULS])
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton
* Leather/Suede (successfully used at THS)
* Magnetic Sheet
* NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber
* Neoprene rubber (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/neoprene-rubber ULS])
* Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not had epoxy applied
* Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
* Chocolate (successfully used at THS)
* Worbla is reportedly safe to cut ( [https://www.worbla.com/?page_id=7425 Worbla.com] )

=== Safe Materials to Etch ===

Some materials can't be cut, but can be lightly etched.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Etching From ATX HackerSpace].

* Most of the above "cut-safe" materials
* Glass
* Ceramic tile
* Anodized aluminum (Read special instructions for this material)
* Painted/coated metals (Read special instructions for this material)
* Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx. (Read special instructions for this material) (successfully used at THS)

=== Selecting Materials ===

* [http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/ Identifying unknown plastics (link)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Extruded vs. Cast Acrylic]

* Materials thicker than about 1/4 inch (6mm) may not cut cleanly through due to how/where the laser beam point focuses

=== Materials Available at the Space ===

We do not currently resell materials for use with the laser cutter.

We keep a steady supply of scrap 1/4 inch plywood and acrylic sheet at the space for free use. Please donate any useful scraps and dispose of pieces that are too small to be used.

There are a number of donated pieces of other plastics, some tiles, etc. kept near the laser cutter for free use. Be aware that some of this plastic may be polycarbonate or other materials.

We have a good amount of donated matte board (scraps from framing art) that cuts well. It is kept in a lateral file below the office supplies.

=== Where to buy acrylic ===
* [http://www.farcoplastics.com/ Farco Plastics Supply] (in Clearwater) Recommended by a few of our members.
* [http://www.plasticsamerica.com/ Plastics America] (out towards Brandon.) "They price by the square foot and charge a single cut fee per order so you benefit from buying in quantity. Buying one or two pieces from them can get expensive. I think I recall the cut fee being $12ish." -- Bill
* [http://www.delviesplastics.com/ Delvie's Plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.estreetplastics.com/ e street plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.ceruleantides.com/ Cerulean Tides] (Ft. Lauderdale) "Ships same day via UPS", is usually at my door the next day."
* [https://www.engraving-supplies.com/ Trotec / engraving-supplies.com] (on line, also carries wood)

=== Where to buy wood ===

Home Depot and Lowes sell 1/4" (and some other thicknesses) plywood as "project panel" / "luan" (cheap but often has knots in middle layers that may need multiple passes or a knife/saw to cut through)

Michaels, Joann's, Blick, and others carry Midwest Products birch plywood (not cheap but look for Joann's coupons)

[https://www.cardsofwood.com/product/wood-panels/ Cards of Wood]

[https://aircraftplywood.com/products/ Aircraft Plywood] (recommended by [https://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/blog/?p=6042 Nervous Systems])

Also see: [https://wiki.tampahackerspace.com/Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood '''Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood''']

== Tool Use ==

* Videos: We have videos uploaded instructing on [https://youtu.be/hCUCX2dZWiU](removing/installing air assist cone) and [https://youtu.be/WrXSZ3RTzKs](setting the z-height)
* '''Check lens. If you have been trained in lens cleaning, Clean only if necessary (see '''Maintenance''' section below for procedures)'''
* Create a new document in CorelDraw that is 24"Wx12"H
* Load SVG or create design. Use only the 8 supported colors.
* "Print" design
** Before clicking "OK" to print, go to "Preferences" and set appropriate values for each color.
** Review information from the class on how to do this.
** Review Laser Cutter documentation and log book for what settings to use.
* Turn on the exhaust fan.
* Power on Laser Cutter.
* If air assist nozzle is installed, turn on its air
* Put masking on your material to reduce scorching. (We have a large roll of self-adhesive masking in the Laser Cutter work area.)
* Place material on the cut bed.
* Set the Z-axis height and return the focus alignment tool to it's storage location.
* Close all Laser Cutter doors.
* Press "Next ==>" on the laser cutter control panel to use the most recently printed file.
* Double check your work.
* Press "Start".
* '''Never leave the Laser Cutter unattended!'''
* When done, turn off exhaust fan, and air assist (if applicable)
* ''Write a short entry about your print job in the Log Book about who, when, what you cut, what settings you used, and the cut duration.''

== Software ==

=== Corel Draw ===
[https://www.coreldraw.com Corel Draw] [https://www.genesis-technologies.com/coreldraw-graphics-suite-2021-for-windows-download.html 2021 (Academic and Non-Profit)] is provided on the Laser Engraver workstation. The about page reports Version 23.1.0.389. It is used for job layout, as well as building vector (and other) images for cutting.

=== Inkscape ===

[https://inkscape.org/en/ Inkscape] is a free Open Source vector graphics editor that you can use to get used to the overall concept of vector based graphics design. However, be aware that there are certain issues you must face when transferring your design to the laser printer.

Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw using SVG format, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%. PDF and certain other formats do not suffer from this problem and are the preferred method of import.

''Note: As of Inkscape 0.92 the default resolution has been changed to 96dpi to match the CSS standard and now matches that of CorelDraw. The information on scaling may be needed only if using an older version of Inkscape.''

See [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Using_Inkscape_with_the_Laser_Cutter this guide] by the ATX Hackerspace for help.

=== Adobe Illustrator ===
Illustrator could be used, but specifics haven't been documented here.

=== Other ===
There are others, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_vector_graphics_editors

== Tips and Tricks ==

Since the terms are used repeatedly used in this document, here's [http://vector-conversions.com/vectorizing/raster_vs_vector.html the difference] between [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics Raster] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics Vector] images.

=== Design tips from the first class ===
* Set your page size to 24"W x 12"H.
* Placing your image at the top left corner cuts it from the top left corner.
* Keep a 1/8" margin in case the laser (or bed, or material) is slightly out of alignment.
* Vector cuts should use line widths of 0.001" or hairline. Anything wider than 0.005" will be rasterized and not cut the way you expect. You can draw with wider lines and reset them before printing in CorelDraw using "Select All" then "Object" --> "Fill And Stroke" to reset all lines to 0.001".
* Draw your "cut" lines in red, and "etch" lines in blue or green. Anything you want to rasterize should be in monochrome/greyscale. (Advanced users can use more colors for more things...but if you know enough to do this, then you don't need to be told how.)
* Lines with colors not set to 255 for any RGB value or less than 100% opacity will be treated as black and rasterized or worse, ignored, by the print driver.[SIC] Don't use color models other than RGB.
* '''Problem''': I created an SVG in Inkscape but when I import it into CorelDraw it's the wrong size. --- Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%

=== Other tips members have learned ===

* CorelDraw lets you do math inside the size entry fields. For example, if you have a Width that is 4.228 in, you can append to that "+1.25" and CorelDraw will change the value to 5.478 in. Furthermore, you can enter values in either "standard" or metric units and CorelDraw will recalculate the value in the document's default units. For example: if the document is set to inches and you entered "65mm" CorelDraw will do the calculation and set the value to 2.5590 inches.

* If you realize you forgot to turn on the vent, you should quickly turn on the vent! But it's better to not forget to turn it on in the first place.

* It may be helpful to use the restroom/get a drink/stretch/etc before starting a particular long (complex) job. DO NOT leave laser cutter unattended while cutting or etching.

* You can use scrap material (pieces that have already been cut) to test out a design, or for a finished piece if it is the right size. There is a bin of "scrap material" kept near the laser cutter.

* Etching a large section of thin acrylic will cause warping.

* If you are etching an oddly shaped and curved surface (for example a pumpkin), try setting the Z-height to the "median" (middle) height you are etching.

* Refer to the following table for spot sizes (the width of the cut, or "kerf") and focal ranges of the lenses available. (Note: The Tampa Hackerspace only has the 2.0 lens, the others are presented for completeness.)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| FOCAL LENGTH
| SPOT SIZE
| FOCAL RANGE
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 1.5 “
| .003 “
| + / - .075 “
|-
| 2.0 “
| .005 “
| + / - .100 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 2.5 “
| .007 “
| + / - .125 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 4.0 “
| .013 “
| + / - .200 “
|}

* You can use the "pointer" mode to "proof" a design. If the any of the doors are open, the red light on the control panel will flash. If you press "Start" to run your job in this state, the job will begin and will trace out the entire design, HOWEVER, the standard invisible CO2 laser will be replaced with a red pointer dot (laser diode). This will let you test your layout and will calculate the job time. Be careful though, the red dot will be close, but not exactly where the laser will cut.

* You can use the X-Y mode to find positions on the print bed. Press the "X-Y" button and use the arrow pad to move the red pointer. The LCD displays the current x,y coordinates under the pointer. These coordinates can be used to position a work piece, and the values entered into CorelDraw. Use the up-down arrows and "Select" to choose "Re-home pointer" when finished. (Check the manual, linked below, for a more through explanation.)

* After the first time a job is run (including "pointer" test run mentioned above), during subsequent runs of the same job the control panel timer will change from a "count-up" timer to a "count-down" timer, telling you how much time remains on your job.

* You can press the "Pause" button on the control panel to pause your job. The laser cutter will finish the current line, then return the head to home. If it's in the middle of a raster, this will happen almost immediately, BUT if it's in the middle of a long cut line, the line will finish first. This may take several seconds. Your job can be resumed where it left off by pressing the "Resume" button. There may be a slight offset when resuming a job, especially if the system was in the middle of a raster. "Wait for the motion system to stop and move to the home position before opening any door otherwise the laser beam will not resume from the position it stopped at."

* Rastering an image on a full 24"x12" (width x height) piece of wood at the recommended settings of [Power 100, Speed 59, 500PPI ] will take 45-55 minutes. On a 24"x6" board, it will take about half that time. On a 12"x12" board, it will take about 10% less time than the full 24", so 40-50 minutes. For fastest raster time, orient your image so the longest dimension is aligned with the X axis.

=== Photo-quality raster images ===
'''Photo-quality raster images can be etched''' on material at high DPI(dots-per-inch)/PPI(pulses-per-inch). For example at 500 PPI on Acrylic.
* Open your image in [http://www.gimp.org/ The GIMP] or another program capable of editing photos. (CorelDraw doesn't support all the features we need.)
In GIMP:
* Click on "Image" --> "Mode" --> "Grayscale" to convert color to greyscale.
* Click on "Image" --> "Print Size" and set the X and Y Resolutions to the desired value (500 pixels/in).
* If you want to invert the grays (change black to white and white to black), click on "Colors" --> "Invert". The black portions are what will be etched. I recommend etching less instead of more; etching a large section of acrylic black will cause warping.
* If you need to adjust the gray levels, you can tweak the values using:
** "Colors" --> "Levels" OR
** "Colors" --> "Curves", You'll have to play around with these settings.
* Save your image with a new name and as a JPG or PNG.

=== Cleaning Acrylic Cuts ===

* Do not clean laser-cut acrylic with alcohol. "There is residual stress in a laser cut edge. The solvent breaks bonds and lets the plastic release the stress by cracking."--Wesley Faler.
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU9Ty0L0g7E What happens when you put alcohol on acrylic (short video)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Ammonia / Windex is also not recommended for cleaning]

* For masking paper adhesive residue, some (untested) suggestions are Goo Gone, WD-40, mineral oil, naptha, or even cooking oil

=== Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver ===
You can use the machine to directly measure on your material. See [[Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver]].

== Common Problems ==

=== My job didn't cut ===
'''Problem''': My design is in CorelDraw but all or a portion didn't cut.
Some causes of this include:
* The line thickness was not set to "hairline" or 0.001" inches and was ignored. (This color set to only "Vector" cut.)
* The line color is not one of the basic colors supported and was ignored.
* Driver setting for this chosen color set to "Skip".
* Driver set incorrectly to "Raster" or incorrectly to "Vector".
* Driver power level set to 0.
* Design is outside the 24" by 12" cut area.
* Design has transparency. This may manifest as vector lines rastering instead. Select the offending lines and set to "No Transparency" in the Object Properties.
* If a CorelDraw document has multiple pages (see tabs at bottom of Corel window) and you print "Current Document" then each page will be sent to the laser engraver as a SEPARATE job. If a page is blank, it will STILL be sent, and will show up as a 0 power 0 speed job. Press the "Next >>" button to skip that blank job. NOTE: this may cause difficulty managing multiple jobs on the laser engraver, so avoid this situation by not printing blank pages.

=== My cut or etch isn't deep enough ===
'''Problem''': My cut or etch isn't deep enough.

Without moving anything or changing any settings, you can press "Start" again and the exact same job will be run a second time, cutting in the exact same places if the work piece hasn't been moved. If your material is too thick, the laser may not be focused correctly to cut all the way through. You might be able to fix this by adjusting the Z-axis slightly lower.

== Maintenance ==

'''Refer maintenance to qualified personnel. If no qualified personal are on-site, post in [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0H6JEBK6 #broken] and/or [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''

'''Lens'''
See [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/team/leebc Bryan Lee] for training on lens cleaning procedure. Otherwise, follow [https://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=YiN3J2WShQY this procedure].

''Maintenance Schedule and Summary'' (From the manual)

Since the maintenance requirements of the laser system is dependent on the type of material being run, the quantity of material being removed, the hours of operation, and the quality of the exhaust blower, it must be user defined. As a starting point, we recommend the following schedule:
* '''As necessary'''
** ''Engraving table'' -- soap solution, or alcohol or acetone, and paper towels.
** ''Main enclosure'' -- vacuum loose debris. Use soft cloth or paper towels and the soap solution to clean the enclosure.
** ''Top door window'' -- cotton cloth and the soap solution. The top window is made out of acrylic. DO NOT use paper towels because they will scratch the acrylic. Also, DO NOT use window cleaner, alcohol, or acetone, as these chemicals will crack the acrylic. Only use cleaners compatible with acrylic.
* '''Every 8 hours of engraving''' -- Turn off and unplug the laser system.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis rails and bearing tracks'' -- cotton swabs or paper towels, and alcohol or soap solution.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis bearings'' -- After the rails and tracks are cleaned, use a clean swab or paper towel, and alcohol to clean all of the bearings by holding the swab against each bearing and moving the motion system by hand to roll the bearings against the swab. There are seven bearings in the system, three (3) on the focus carriage, two (2) on the left side of the X-rail, and two (2) on the right side of the X-rail.
** ''Clean X-axis belt''.
** ''Check beam window, #2 mirror, #3 mirror, and focus lens for debris''. Clean ONLY if dirty. Do not clean immediately after use, optics will be hot. -- Refer this step to trained personal.

* '''Every month'''
** ''Clean cooling fan filters'' -- Wash the element in a soap and water solution, dry, and re-install. If scheduling prevents filters from being washed and dried, use a dust buster to carefully vacuum dust off the filters. Be certain to replace them with the same side out that they were removed.
** ''Clean and re-lubricate Z-axis lead screws'' -- The only lubrication that may be required [on the entire laser system] is the screw threads for the table lifting mechanism. After some time, contaminants can adhere to the lubricant, which can cause the engraving table to bind up or sound squeaky. If this is the case, wipe off the contaminated grease with a soft cloth dampened with alcohol and apply fresh white lithium grease to the screw threads. NEVER SPRAY ANY DEGREASING SOLUTIONS DIRECTLY ONTO THE THREADS. Run the table up and down to work in the fresh grease. Repeat if necessary.
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis belt wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Check and/or clean X-axis and Y-axis drive gears''
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis bearing wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Inspect system for loose screws and mechanical parts'' – tighten if necessary

* '''Every 6 months'''
** ''Exhaust plenum'' -- Remove it from the system. Using your soap and water solution, clean the inside of plenum as well as the inside rear wall of the Laser System.
** ''Blower fan'' -- Check blower fan screen for loose cut material (cardboard) that may have been sucked through the exhaust system and be restricting air flow.
** ''"Bucket" Filter Cleaning'' -- Cleaning is simply a matter of stabilizing the buckets so they don't twist, unscrew the top bucket's lid, remove the filter material, take it outside and clean, dry it, refold it (air must pass through 4 layers), reinsert it. The screen on the exhaust side can be removed, and cleaned. Soaking and/or brushing may be necessary. The other screen can not be removed. When done, and screw the top on.
*** The purpose of the exhaust filter is to reduce material passing through the exhaust blower "in the attic". The blowers were getting gunked up and needed to be exchanged every 6 months or so. We attempted to use a cyclonic system last year, but it did not allow enough airflow.
*** The current setup draws air from the enclosure, through a 4 inch flexible metal duct and into the bottom bucket. When air enters the bottom bucket, the volume expands, slowing the airflow (but not the total volume, cubic feet/minute). The flow impacts a baffle and some particles should stop moving and ultimately fall. The airflow changes direction several times, which should stop more particulates. The air enters the upper bucket and passes through the filter material, catching even more particulates. There's a perforated metal panel the air goes through, then up the stack into the blower, then up another stack out the vent in the roof.
*** Flow problems can happen if the hoses get kinked or excessively dirty inside.

== Related Links ==

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2Z051TVVwaldaUGM&authuser=0 Safety Warnings]

* [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX HackerSpace's list of Laser Cutter Materials]

* [https://festi.info/boxes.py/ Boxes.py] Generate SVGs for boxes. Includes boxes with FLEXIBLE, curved sides. Many output formats are available, use svg or pdf, and avoid dxf as it seems to add unnecessary vectors.

* [http://boxmaker.connectionlab.org/ Box Maker]

* [http://www.makercase.com/ MakerCase]

* [https://www.remove.bg/ Remove Image Background]

* [https://polygonia.design/ Rapidly Create Symmetrical Designs for Manufacturing]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DYNPk58hrpItedoqooGeMAFEw2Fem7AQ Universal Laser M360 Manual]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ioIpMk8M7658dY5rWBMrSJOM7g9V62d0 Cleaning tips from Epilog Laser]

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2MGExMF9OSnppZWc&authuser=0 Orientation Slide Deck]

* [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam Universal Laser's writeup on EVA foam]

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html Cardstock and Corrugated Boxes]

* [http://www.templatemaker.nl/ Free custom paper templates]

* [http://image.online-convert.com/ Online Image Converter]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/ Engraving Systems Support, whom THS bought our laser cutter from]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/equipment-support/universal-laser-systems-support/ ESS Support, search for M360]

* [http://parts.engravingsys.com/MVX-Laser-Parts Replacement Parts and Accessories]

* [https://github.com/vanillabox/OpenSCADBoxes OpenSCAD generated flex/living-hinge boxes]

* [https://3axis.co Free Vectors for Laser Cutting]

[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Fabrication]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

Tools: Universal M360 Laser Cutter

2023-10-09T21:57:11Z

Leebc: /* My job didn't cut */

[[File:m360.jpg|250px|thumb|right|M360 Laser Cutter]]

The Universal M360 is a flexible tool for precise cutting and etching of flat materials like acrylic plastic and thin wood.

Use of the laser cutter requires the certification class.

'''If you are unsure about any aspect of laser cutter operation, cleaning, or maintenance, please ask for help in the [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''


== Tool Description ==
Universal Laser Cutter Model M360-60
* 60 Watt CO2 laser.
* 24” x 12” (609.6 x 304.8mm) cut bed.
* Flat Cutting Table or removable Honeycomb Cutting Table.
* High speed ventilation system for evacuation of fumes and particulates during cutting.
* CorelDraw
* Uses custom Windows print driver to specify laser intensities.
* Raster and Vector modes.
* 16 MB standard memory buffer.

== Safety ==

Do not operate the laser cutter without taking the class. Do not allow others to use the laser cutter unsupervised without ensuring that they have taken the class.

'''Always''' wear safety glasses while watching the laser cutter operate. These are the laser-specific dark safety glasses near the laser cutter. Clear or dark-tinted safety glasses, sunglasses, etc. are not adequate protection. The laser used for cutting / etching is not visible to the human eye but can cause significant damage to the eye.

'''Always''' use the ventilation fan. This is turned on via a power strip on the table. Leave the ventilation fan running for some time after completing your work to draw smoke and other gases out of the space. Please turn off the ventilation fan when not in use to keep air conditioning costs down. Notify us immediately if the ventilation fan seems weaker than usual.

'''Always''' supervise the laser cutter while in operation. The risk of fire varies by material but is always there.

Be considerate of others using the space. If possible, ''please'' refrain from operating the laser cutter during or immediately before a class or other Meetup due to noise and smell.

'''Note:''' The person operating the laser cutter is responsible for ensuring the safety of others in the area. Visitors, guests, and even other members may not know proper safety procedures. Ensure that they do not watch the laser operate without safety glasses.

Be aware of the nearest fire extinguishers:

* One just to the right of the laser-cutter
* One just inside kitchen
* One by front door

== Materials (what to use, and not use, it on) ==

There are a wide variety of materials that are safe to cut and etch.

=== '''Unsafe''' Materials to Cut or Etch ===

'''Never''' cut or etch these materials. Most of these will produce toxic gases when heated.

Note that many manufactured items that seem like good candidates for etching are made of PVC.

Note that it can be quite difficult to tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic plastics. If nothing else, a small test etch or cut will help determine which plastic the item is made from.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#NEVER_CUT_THESE_MATERIALS ATX HackerSpace].

* PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
* Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
* ABS
* HDPE/milk bottle plastic
* PolyStyrene Foam
* PolyPropylene Foam
* Fiberglass
* Coated Carbon Fiber
* Teflon (PTFE)

=== Safe Materials to Cut ===

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Cutting ATX HackerSpace].

* Many woods (successfully used at THS)
* Plywood/Composite woods (successfully used at THS)
* MDF/Engineered woods
* Paper, card stock (successfully used at THS)
* Marshmallows (successfully used at THS)
* Cardboard, carton (Thick cardboard will burn - the pockets are protected from the exhaust fan and air assist and will sustain a flame) (successfully used at THS)
* Cork
* Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA (acrylic successfully used at THS)
* Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
* Delrin (POM)
* Kapton tape (Polyimide)
* Mylar
* Solid Styrene
* Depron foam
* Gator foam
* EVA foam (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam ULS])
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton
* Leather/Suede (successfully used at THS)
* Magnetic Sheet
* NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber
* Neoprene rubber (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/neoprene-rubber ULS])
* Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not had epoxy applied
* Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
* Chocolate (successfully used at THS)

=== Safe Materials to Etch ===

Some materials can't be cut, but can be lightly etched.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Etching From ATX HackerSpace].

* Most of the above "cut-safe" materials
* Glass
* Ceramic tile
* Anodized aluminum (Read special instructions for this material)
* Painted/coated metals (Read special instructions for this material)
* Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx. (Read special instructions for this material) (successfully used at THS)

=== Selecting Materials ===

* [http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/ Identifying unknown plastics (link)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Extruded vs. Cast Acrylic]

* Materials thicker than about 1/4 inch (6mm) may not cut cleanly through due to how/where the laser beam point focuses

=== Materials Available at the Space ===

We do not currently resell materials for use with the laser cutter.

We keep a steady supply of scrap 1/4 inch plywood and acrylic sheet at the space for free use. Please donate any useful scraps and dispose of pieces that are too small to be used.

There are a number of donated pieces of other plastics, some tiles, etc. kept near the laser cutter for free use. Be aware that some of this plastic may be polycarbonate or other materials.

We have a good amount of donated matte board (scraps from framing art) that cuts well. It is kept in a lateral file below the office supplies.

=== Where to buy acrylic ===
* [http://www.farcoplastics.com/ Farco Plastics Supply] (in Clearwater) Recommended by a few of our members.
* [http://www.plasticsamerica.com/ Plastics America] (out towards Brandon.) "They price by the square foot and charge a single cut fee per order so you benefit from buying in quantity. Buying one or two pieces from them can get expensive. I think I recall the cut fee being $12ish." -- Bill
* [http://www.delviesplastics.com/ Delvie's Plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.estreetplastics.com/ e street plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.ceruleantides.com/ Cerulean Tides] (Ft. Lauderdale) "Ships same day via UPS", is usually at my door the next day."
* [https://www.engraving-supplies.com/ Trotec / engraving-supplies.com] (on line, also carries wood)

=== Where to buy wood ===

Home Depot and Lowes sell 1/4" (and some other thicknesses) plywood as "project panel" / "luan" (cheap but often has knots in middle layers that may need multiple passes or a knife/saw to cut through)

Michaels, Joann's, Blick, and others carry Midwest Products birch plywood (not cheap but look for Joann's coupons)

[https://www.cardsofwood.com/product/wood-panels/ Cards of Wood]

[https://aircraftplywood.com/products/ Aircraft Plywood] (recommended by [https://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/blog/?p=6042 Nervous Systems])

Also see: [https://wiki.tampahackerspace.com/Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood '''Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood''']

== Tool Use ==

* Videos: We have videos uploaded instructing on [https://youtu.be/hCUCX2dZWiU](removing/installing air assist cone) and [https://youtu.be/WrXSZ3RTzKs](setting the z-height)
* '''Check lens. If you have been trained in lens cleaning, Clean only if necessary (see '''Maintenance''' section below for procedures)'''
* Create a new document in CorelDraw that is 24"Wx12"H
* Load SVG or create design. Use only the 8 supported colors.
* "Print" design
** Before clicking "OK" to print, go to "Preferences" and set appropriate values for each color.
** Review information from the class on how to do this.
** Review Laser Cutter documentation and log book for what settings to use.
* Turn on the exhaust fan.
* Power on Laser Cutter.
* If air assist nozzle is installed, turn on its air
* Put masking on your material to reduce scorching. (We have a large roll of self-adhesive masking in the Laser Cutter work area.)
* Place material on the cut bed.
* Set the Z-axis height and return the focus alignment tool to it's storage location.
* Close all Laser Cutter doors.
* Press "Next ==>" on the laser cutter control panel to use the most recently printed file.
* Double check your work.
* Press "Start".
* '''Never leave the Laser Cutter unattended!'''
* When done, turn off exhaust fan, and air assist (if applicable)
* ''Write a short entry about your print job in the Log Book about who, when, what you cut, what settings you used, and the cut duration.''

== Software ==

=== Corel Draw ===
[https://www.coreldraw.com Corel Draw] [https://www.genesis-technologies.com/coreldraw-graphics-suite-2021-for-windows-download.html 2021 (Academic and Non-Profit)] is provided on the Laser Engraver workstation. The about page reports Version 23.1.0.389. It is used for job layout, as well as building vector (and other) images for cutting.

=== Inkscape ===

[https://inkscape.org/en/ Inkscape] is a free Open Source vector graphics editor that you can use to get used to the overall concept of vector based graphics design. However, be aware that there are certain issues you must face when transferring your design to the laser printer.

Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw using SVG format, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%. PDF and certain other formats do not suffer from this problem and are the preferred method of import.

''Note: As of Inkscape 0.92 the default resolution has been changed to 96dpi to match the CSS standard and now matches that of CorelDraw. The information on scaling may be needed only if using an older version of Inkscape.''

See [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Using_Inkscape_with_the_Laser_Cutter this guide] by the ATX Hackerspace for help.

=== Adobe Illustrator ===
Illustrator could be used, but specifics haven't been documented here.

=== Other ===
There are others, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_vector_graphics_editors

== Tips and Tricks ==

Since the terms are used repeatedly used in this document, here's [http://vector-conversions.com/vectorizing/raster_vs_vector.html the difference] between [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics Raster] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics Vector] images.

=== Design tips from the first class ===
* Set your page size to 24"W x 12"H.
* Placing your image at the top left corner cuts it from the top left corner.
* Keep a 1/8" margin in case the laser (or bed, or material) is slightly out of alignment.
* Vector cuts should use line widths of 0.001" or hairline. Anything wider than 0.005" will be rasterized and not cut the way you expect. You can draw with wider lines and reset them before printing in CorelDraw using "Select All" then "Object" --> "Fill And Stroke" to reset all lines to 0.001".
* Draw your "cut" lines in red, and "etch" lines in blue or green. Anything you want to rasterize should be in monochrome/greyscale. (Advanced users can use more colors for more things...but if you know enough to do this, then you don't need to be told how.)
* Lines with colors not set to 255 for any RGB value or less than 100% opacity will be treated as black and rasterized or worse, ignored, by the print driver.[SIC] Don't use color models other than RGB.
* '''Problem''': I created an SVG in Inkscape but when I import it into CorelDraw it's the wrong size. --- Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%

=== Other tips members have learned ===

* CorelDraw lets you do math inside the size entry fields. For example, if you have a Width that is 4.228 in, you can append to that "+1.25" and CorelDraw will change the value to 5.478 in. Furthermore, you can enter values in either "standard" or metric units and CorelDraw will recalculate the value in the document's default units. For example: if the document is set to inches and you entered "65mm" CorelDraw will do the calculation and set the value to 2.5590 inches.

* If you realize you forgot to turn on the vent, you should quickly turn on the vent! But it's better to not forget to turn it on in the first place.

* It may be helpful to use the restroom/get a drink/stretch/etc before starting a particular long (complex) job. DO NOT leave laser cutter unattended while cutting or etching.

* You can use scrap material (pieces that have already been cut) to test out a design, or for a finished piece if it is the right size. There is a bin of "scrap material" kept near the laser cutter.

* Etching a large section of thin acrylic will cause warping.

* If you are etching an oddly shaped and curved surface (for example a pumpkin), try setting the Z-height to the "median" (middle) height you are etching.

* Refer to the following table for spot sizes (the width of the cut, or "kerf") and focal ranges of the lenses available. (Note: The Tampa Hackerspace only has the 2.0 lens, the others are presented for completeness.)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| FOCAL LENGTH
| SPOT SIZE
| FOCAL RANGE
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 1.5 “
| .003 “
| + / - .075 “
|-
| 2.0 “
| .005 “
| + / - .100 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 2.5 “
| .007 “
| + / - .125 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 4.0 “
| .013 “
| + / - .200 “
|}

* You can use the "pointer" mode to "proof" a design. If the any of the doors are open, the red light on the control panel will flash. If you press "Start" to run your job in this state, the job will begin and will trace out the entire design, HOWEVER, the standard invisible CO2 laser will be replaced with a red pointer dot (laser diode). This will let you test your layout and will calculate the job time. Be careful though, the red dot will be close, but not exactly where the laser will cut.

* You can use the X-Y mode to find positions on the print bed. Press the "X-Y" button and use the arrow pad to move the red pointer. The LCD displays the current x,y coordinates under the pointer. These coordinates can be used to position a work piece, and the values entered into CorelDraw. Use the up-down arrows and "Select" to choose "Re-home pointer" when finished. (Check the manual, linked below, for a more through explanation.)

* After the first time a job is run (including "pointer" test run mentioned above), during subsequent runs of the same job the control panel timer will change from a "count-up" timer to a "count-down" timer, telling you how much time remains on your job.

* You can press the "Pause" button on the control panel to pause your job. The laser cutter will finish the current line, then return the head to home. If it's in the middle of a raster, this will happen almost immediately, BUT if it's in the middle of a long cut line, the line will finish first. This may take several seconds. Your job can be resumed where it left off by pressing the "Resume" button. There may be a slight offset when resuming a job, especially if the system was in the middle of a raster. "Wait for the motion system to stop and move to the home position before opening any door otherwise the laser beam will not resume from the position it stopped at."

* Rastering an image on a full 24"x12" (width x height) piece of wood at the recommended settings of [Power 100, Speed 59, 500PPI ] will take 45-55 minutes. On a 24"x6" board, it will take about half that time. On a 12"x12" board, it will take about 10% less time than the full 24", so 40-50 minutes. For fastest raster time, orient your image so the longest dimension is aligned with the X axis.

=== Photo-quality raster images ===
'''Photo-quality raster images can be etched''' on material at high DPI(dots-per-inch)/PPI(pulses-per-inch). For example at 500 PPI on Acrylic.
* Open your image in [http://www.gimp.org/ The GIMP] or another program capable of editing photos. (CorelDraw doesn't support all the features we need.)
In GIMP:
* Click on "Image" --> "Mode" --> "Grayscale" to convert color to greyscale.
* Click on "Image" --> "Print Size" and set the X and Y Resolutions to the desired value (500 pixels/in).
* If you want to invert the grays (change black to white and white to black), click on "Colors" --> "Invert". The black portions are what will be etched. I recommend etching less instead of more; etching a large section of acrylic black will cause warping.
* If you need to adjust the gray levels, you can tweak the values using:
** "Colors" --> "Levels" OR
** "Colors" --> "Curves", You'll have to play around with these settings.
* Save your image with a new name and as a JPG or PNG.

=== Cleaning Acrylic Cuts ===

* Do not clean laser-cut acrylic with alcohol. "There is residual stress in a laser cut edge. The solvent breaks bonds and lets the plastic release the stress by cracking."--Wesley Faler.
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU9Ty0L0g7E What happens when you put alcohol on acrylic (short video)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Ammonia / Windex is also not recommended for cleaning]

* For masking paper adhesive residue, some (untested) suggestions are Goo Gone, WD-40, mineral oil, naptha, or even cooking oil

=== Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver ===
You can use the machine to directly measure on your material. See [[Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver]].

== Common Problems ==

=== My job didn't cut ===
'''Problem''': My design is in CorelDraw but all or a portion didn't cut.
Some causes of this include:
* The line thickness was not set to "hairline" or 0.001" inches and was ignored. (This color set to only "Vector" cut.)
* The line color is not one of the basic colors supported and was ignored.
* Driver setting for this chosen color set to "Skip".
* Driver set incorrectly to "Raster" or incorrectly to "Vector".
* Driver power level set to 0.
* Design is outside the 24" by 12" cut area.
* Design has transparency. This may manifest as vector lines rastering instead. Select the offending lines and set to "No Transparency" in the Object Properties.
* If a CorelDraw document has multiple pages (see tabs at bottom of Corel window) and you print "Current Document" then each page will be sent to the laser engraver as a SEPARATE job. If a page is blank, it will STILL be sent, and will show up as a 0 power 0 speed job. Press the "Next >>" button to skip that blank job. NOTE: this may cause difficulty managing multiple jobs on the laser engraver, so avoid this situation by not printing blank pages.

=== My cut or etch isn't deep enough ===
'''Problem''': My cut or etch isn't deep enough.

Without moving anything or changing any settings, you can press "Start" again and the exact same job will be run a second time, cutting in the exact same places if the work piece hasn't been moved. If your material is too thick, the laser may not be focused correctly to cut all the way through. You might be able to fix this by adjusting the Z-axis slightly lower.

== Maintenance ==

'''Refer maintenance to qualified personnel. If no qualified personal are on-site, post in [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0H6JEBK6 #broken] and/or [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''

'''Lens'''
See [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/team/leebc Bryan Lee] for training on lens cleaning procedure. Otherwise, follow [https://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=YiN3J2WShQY this procedure].

''Maintenance Schedule and Summary'' (From the manual)

Since the maintenance requirements of the laser system is dependent on the type of material being run, the quantity of material being removed, the hours of operation, and the quality of the exhaust blower, it must be user defined. As a starting point, we recommend the following schedule:
* '''As necessary'''
** ''Engraving table'' -- soap solution, or alcohol or acetone, and paper towels.
** ''Main enclosure'' -- vacuum loose debris. Use soft cloth or paper towels and the soap solution to clean the enclosure.
** ''Top door window'' -- cotton cloth and the soap solution. The top window is made out of acrylic. DO NOT use paper towels because they will scratch the acrylic. Also, DO NOT use window cleaner, alcohol, or acetone, as these chemicals will crack the acrylic. Only use cleaners compatible with acrylic.
* '''Every 8 hours of engraving''' -- Turn off and unplug the laser system.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis rails and bearing tracks'' -- cotton swabs or paper towels, and alcohol or soap solution.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis bearings'' -- After the rails and tracks are cleaned, use a clean swab or paper towel, and alcohol to clean all of the bearings by holding the swab against each bearing and moving the motion system by hand to roll the bearings against the swab. There are seven bearings in the system, three (3) on the focus carriage, two (2) on the left side of the X-rail, and two (2) on the right side of the X-rail.
** ''Clean X-axis belt''.
** ''Check beam window, #2 mirror, #3 mirror, and focus lens for debris''. Clean ONLY if dirty. Do not clean immediately after use, optics will be hot. -- Refer this step to trained personal.

* '''Every month'''
** ''Clean cooling fan filters'' -- Wash the element in a soap and water solution, dry, and re-install. If scheduling prevents filters from being washed and dried, use a dust buster to carefully vacuum dust off the filters. Be certain to replace them with the same side out that they were removed.
** ''Clean and re-lubricate Z-axis lead screws'' -- The only lubrication that may be required [on the entire laser system] is the screw threads for the table lifting mechanism. After some time, contaminants can adhere to the lubricant, which can cause the engraving table to bind up or sound squeaky. If this is the case, wipe off the contaminated grease with a soft cloth dampened with alcohol and apply fresh white lithium grease to the screw threads. NEVER SPRAY ANY DEGREASING SOLUTIONS DIRECTLY ONTO THE THREADS. Run the table up and down to work in the fresh grease. Repeat if necessary.
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis belt wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Check and/or clean X-axis and Y-axis drive gears''
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis bearing wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Inspect system for loose screws and mechanical parts'' – tighten if necessary

* '''Every 6 months'''
** ''Exhaust plenum'' -- Remove it from the system. Using your soap and water solution, clean the inside of plenum as well as the inside rear wall of the Laser System.
** ''Blower fan'' -- Check blower fan screen for loose cut material (cardboard) that may have been sucked through the exhaust system and be restricting air flow.
** ''"Bucket" Filter Cleaning'' -- Cleaning is simply a matter of stabilizing the buckets so they don't twist, unscrew the top bucket's lid, remove the filter material, take it outside and clean, dry it, refold it (air must pass through 4 layers), reinsert it. The screen on the exhaust side can be removed, and cleaned. Soaking and/or brushing may be necessary. The other screen can not be removed. When done, and screw the top on.
*** The purpose of the exhaust filter is to reduce material passing through the exhaust blower "in the attic". The blowers were getting gunked up and needed to be exchanged every 6 months or so. We attempted to use a cyclonic system last year, but it did not allow enough airflow.
*** The current setup draws air from the enclosure, through a 4 inch flexible metal duct and into the bottom bucket. When air enters the bottom bucket, the volume expands, slowing the airflow (but not the total volume, cubic feet/minute). The flow impacts a baffle and some particles should stop moving and ultimately fall. The airflow changes direction several times, which should stop more particulates. The air enters the upper bucket and passes through the filter material, catching even more particulates. There's a perforated metal panel the air goes through, then up the stack into the blower, then up another stack out the vent in the roof.
*** Flow problems can happen if the hoses get kinked or excessively dirty inside.

== Related Links ==

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2Z051TVVwaldaUGM&authuser=0 Safety Warnings]

* [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX HackerSpace's list of Laser Cutter Materials]

* [https://festi.info/boxes.py/ Boxes.py] Generate SVGs for boxes. Includes boxes with FLEXIBLE, curved sides. Many output formats are available, use svg or pdf, and avoid dxf as it seems to add unnecessary vectors.

* [http://boxmaker.connectionlab.org/ Box Maker]

* [http://www.makercase.com/ MakerCase]

* [https://www.remove.bg/ Remove Image Background]

* [https://polygonia.design/ Rapidly Create Symmetrical Designs for Manufacturing]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DYNPk58hrpItedoqooGeMAFEw2Fem7AQ Universal Laser M360 Manual]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ioIpMk8M7658dY5rWBMrSJOM7g9V62d0 Cleaning tips from Epilog Laser]

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2MGExMF9OSnppZWc&authuser=0 Orientation Slide Deck]

* [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam Universal Laser's writeup on EVA foam]

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html Cardstock and Corrugated Boxes]

* [http://www.templatemaker.nl/ Free custom paper templates]

* [http://image.online-convert.com/ Online Image Converter]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/ Engraving Systems Support, whom THS bought our laser cutter from]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/equipment-support/universal-laser-systems-support/ ESS Support, search for M360]

* [http://parts.engravingsys.com/MVX-Laser-Parts Replacement Parts and Accessories]

* [https://github.com/vanillabox/OpenSCADBoxes OpenSCAD generated flex/living-hinge boxes]

* [https://3axis.co Free Vectors for Laser Cutting]

[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Fabrication]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

Tools: Universal M360 Laser Cutter

2023-10-09T21:56:03Z

Leebc: /* My job didn't cut */ Added note about blank pages.

[[File:m360.jpg|250px|thumb|right|M360 Laser Cutter]]

The Universal M360 is a flexible tool for precise cutting and etching of flat materials like acrylic plastic and thin wood.

Use of the laser cutter requires the certification class.

'''If you are unsure about any aspect of laser cutter operation, cleaning, or maintenance, please ask for help in the [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''


== Tool Description ==
Universal Laser Cutter Model M360-60
* 60 Watt CO2 laser.
* 24” x 12” (609.6 x 304.8mm) cut bed.
* Flat Cutting Table or removable Honeycomb Cutting Table.
* High speed ventilation system for evacuation of fumes and particulates during cutting.
* CorelDraw
* Uses custom Windows print driver to specify laser intensities.
* Raster and Vector modes.
* 16 MB standard memory buffer.

== Safety ==

Do not operate the laser cutter without taking the class. Do not allow others to use the laser cutter unsupervised without ensuring that they have taken the class.

'''Always''' wear safety glasses while watching the laser cutter operate. These are the laser-specific dark safety glasses near the laser cutter. Clear or dark-tinted safety glasses, sunglasses, etc. are not adequate protection. The laser used for cutting / etching is not visible to the human eye but can cause significant damage to the eye.

'''Always''' use the ventilation fan. This is turned on via a power strip on the table. Leave the ventilation fan running for some time after completing your work to draw smoke and other gases out of the space. Please turn off the ventilation fan when not in use to keep air conditioning costs down. Notify us immediately if the ventilation fan seems weaker than usual.

'''Always''' supervise the laser cutter while in operation. The risk of fire varies by material but is always there.

Be considerate of others using the space. If possible, ''please'' refrain from operating the laser cutter during or immediately before a class or other Meetup due to noise and smell.

'''Note:''' The person operating the laser cutter is responsible for ensuring the safety of others in the area. Visitors, guests, and even other members may not know proper safety procedures. Ensure that they do not watch the laser operate without safety glasses.

Be aware of the nearest fire extinguishers:

* One just to the right of the laser-cutter
* One just inside kitchen
* One by front door

== Materials (what to use, and not use, it on) ==

There are a wide variety of materials that are safe to cut and etch.

=== '''Unsafe''' Materials to Cut or Etch ===

'''Never''' cut or etch these materials. Most of these will produce toxic gases when heated.

Note that many manufactured items that seem like good candidates for etching are made of PVC.

Note that it can be quite difficult to tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic plastics. If nothing else, a small test etch or cut will help determine which plastic the item is made from.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#NEVER_CUT_THESE_MATERIALS ATX HackerSpace].

* PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
* Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
* ABS
* HDPE/milk bottle plastic
* PolyStyrene Foam
* PolyPropylene Foam
* Fiberglass
* Coated Carbon Fiber
* Teflon (PTFE)

=== Safe Materials to Cut ===

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Cutting ATX HackerSpace].

* Many woods (successfully used at THS)
* Plywood/Composite woods (successfully used at THS)
* MDF/Engineered woods
* Paper, card stock (successfully used at THS)
* Marshmallows (successfully used at THS)
* Cardboard, carton (Thick cardboard will burn - the pockets are protected from the exhaust fan and air assist and will sustain a flame) (successfully used at THS)
* Cork
* Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA (acrylic successfully used at THS)
* Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
* Delrin (POM)
* Kapton tape (Polyimide)
* Mylar
* Solid Styrene
* Depron foam
* Gator foam
* EVA foam (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam ULS])
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton
* Leather/Suede (successfully used at THS)
* Magnetic Sheet
* NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber
* Neoprene rubber (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/neoprene-rubber ULS])
* Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not had epoxy applied
* Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
* Chocolate (successfully used at THS)

=== Safe Materials to Etch ===

Some materials can't be cut, but can be lightly etched.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Etching From ATX HackerSpace].

* Most of the above "cut-safe" materials
* Glass
* Ceramic tile
* Anodized aluminum (Read special instructions for this material)
* Painted/coated metals (Read special instructions for this material)
* Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx. (Read special instructions for this material) (successfully used at THS)

=== Selecting Materials ===

* [http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/ Identifying unknown plastics (link)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Extruded vs. Cast Acrylic]

* Materials thicker than about 1/4 inch (6mm) may not cut cleanly through due to how/where the laser beam point focuses

=== Materials Available at the Space ===

We do not currently resell materials for use with the laser cutter.

We keep a steady supply of scrap 1/4 inch plywood and acrylic sheet at the space for free use. Please donate any useful scraps and dispose of pieces that are too small to be used.

There are a number of donated pieces of other plastics, some tiles, etc. kept near the laser cutter for free use. Be aware that some of this plastic may be polycarbonate or other materials.

We have a good amount of donated matte board (scraps from framing art) that cuts well. It is kept in a lateral file below the office supplies.

=== Where to buy acrylic ===
* [http://www.farcoplastics.com/ Farco Plastics Supply] (in Clearwater) Recommended by a few of our members.
* [http://www.plasticsamerica.com/ Plastics America] (out towards Brandon.) "They price by the square foot and charge a single cut fee per order so you benefit from buying in quantity. Buying one or two pieces from them can get expensive. I think I recall the cut fee being $12ish." -- Bill
* [http://www.delviesplastics.com/ Delvie's Plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.estreetplastics.com/ e street plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.ceruleantides.com/ Cerulean Tides] (Ft. Lauderdale) "Ships same day via UPS", is usually at my door the next day."
* [https://www.engraving-supplies.com/ Trotec / engraving-supplies.com] (on line, also carries wood)

=== Where to buy wood ===

Home Depot and Lowes sell 1/4" (and some other thicknesses) plywood as "project panel" / "luan" (cheap but often has knots in middle layers that may need multiple passes or a knife/saw to cut through)

Michaels, Joann's, Blick, and others carry Midwest Products birch plywood (not cheap but look for Joann's coupons)

[https://www.cardsofwood.com/product/wood-panels/ Cards of Wood]

[https://aircraftplywood.com/products/ Aircraft Plywood] (recommended by [https://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/blog/?p=6042 Nervous Systems])

Also see: [https://wiki.tampahackerspace.com/Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood '''Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood''']

== Tool Use ==

* Videos: We have videos uploaded instructing on [https://youtu.be/hCUCX2dZWiU](removing/installing air assist cone) and [https://youtu.be/WrXSZ3RTzKs](setting the z-height)
* '''Check lens. If you have been trained in lens cleaning, Clean only if necessary (see '''Maintenance''' section below for procedures)'''
* Create a new document in CorelDraw that is 24"Wx12"H
* Load SVG or create design. Use only the 8 supported colors.
* "Print" design
** Before clicking "OK" to print, go to "Preferences" and set appropriate values for each color.
** Review information from the class on how to do this.
** Review Laser Cutter documentation and log book for what settings to use.
* Turn on the exhaust fan.
* Power on Laser Cutter.
* If air assist nozzle is installed, turn on its air
* Put masking on your material to reduce scorching. (We have a large roll of self-adhesive masking in the Laser Cutter work area.)
* Place material on the cut bed.
* Set the Z-axis height and return the focus alignment tool to it's storage location.
* Close all Laser Cutter doors.
* Press "Next ==>" on the laser cutter control panel to use the most recently printed file.
* Double check your work.
* Press "Start".
* '''Never leave the Laser Cutter unattended!'''
* When done, turn off exhaust fan, and air assist (if applicable)
* ''Write a short entry about your print job in the Log Book about who, when, what you cut, what settings you used, and the cut duration.''

== Software ==

=== Corel Draw ===
[https://www.coreldraw.com Corel Draw] [https://www.genesis-technologies.com/coreldraw-graphics-suite-2021-for-windows-download.html 2021 (Academic and Non-Profit)] is provided on the Laser Engraver workstation. The about page reports Version 23.1.0.389. It is used for job layout, as well as building vector (and other) images for cutting.

=== Inkscape ===

[https://inkscape.org/en/ Inkscape] is a free Open Source vector graphics editor that you can use to get used to the overall concept of vector based graphics design. However, be aware that there are certain issues you must face when transferring your design to the laser printer.

Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw using SVG format, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%. PDF and certain other formats do not suffer from this problem and are the preferred method of import.

''Note: As of Inkscape 0.92 the default resolution has been changed to 96dpi to match the CSS standard and now matches that of CorelDraw. The information on scaling may be needed only if using an older version of Inkscape.''

See [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Using_Inkscape_with_the_Laser_Cutter this guide] by the ATX Hackerspace for help.

=== Adobe Illustrator ===
Illustrator could be used, but specifics haven't been documented here.

=== Other ===
There are others, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_vector_graphics_editors

== Tips and Tricks ==

Since the terms are used repeatedly used in this document, here's [http://vector-conversions.com/vectorizing/raster_vs_vector.html the difference] between [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics Raster] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics Vector] images.

=== Design tips from the first class ===
* Set your page size to 24"W x 12"H.
* Placing your image at the top left corner cuts it from the top left corner.
* Keep a 1/8" margin in case the laser (or bed, or material) is slightly out of alignment.
* Vector cuts should use line widths of 0.001" or hairline. Anything wider than 0.005" will be rasterized and not cut the way you expect. You can draw with wider lines and reset them before printing in CorelDraw using "Select All" then "Object" --> "Fill And Stroke" to reset all lines to 0.001".
* Draw your "cut" lines in red, and "etch" lines in blue or green. Anything you want to rasterize should be in monochrome/greyscale. (Advanced users can use more colors for more things...but if you know enough to do this, then you don't need to be told how.)
* Lines with colors not set to 255 for any RGB value or less than 100% opacity will be treated as black and rasterized or worse, ignored, by the print driver.[SIC] Don't use color models other than RGB.
* '''Problem''': I created an SVG in Inkscape but when I import it into CorelDraw it's the wrong size. --- Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%

=== Other tips members have learned ===

* CorelDraw lets you do math inside the size entry fields. For example, if you have a Width that is 4.228 in, you can append to that "+1.25" and CorelDraw will change the value to 5.478 in. Furthermore, you can enter values in either "standard" or metric units and CorelDraw will recalculate the value in the document's default units. For example: if the document is set to inches and you entered "65mm" CorelDraw will do the calculation and set the value to 2.5590 inches.

* If you realize you forgot to turn on the vent, you should quickly turn on the vent! But it's better to not forget to turn it on in the first place.

* It may be helpful to use the restroom/get a drink/stretch/etc before starting a particular long (complex) job. DO NOT leave laser cutter unattended while cutting or etching.

* You can use scrap material (pieces that have already been cut) to test out a design, or for a finished piece if it is the right size. There is a bin of "scrap material" kept near the laser cutter.

* Etching a large section of thin acrylic will cause warping.

* If you are etching an oddly shaped and curved surface (for example a pumpkin), try setting the Z-height to the "median" (middle) height you are etching.

* Refer to the following table for spot sizes (the width of the cut, or "kerf") and focal ranges of the lenses available. (Note: The Tampa Hackerspace only has the 2.0 lens, the others are presented for completeness.)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| FOCAL LENGTH
| SPOT SIZE
| FOCAL RANGE
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 1.5 “
| .003 “
| + / - .075 “
|-
| 2.0 “
| .005 “
| + / - .100 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 2.5 “
| .007 “
| + / - .125 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 4.0 “
| .013 “
| + / - .200 “
|}

* You can use the "pointer" mode to "proof" a design. If the any of the doors are open, the red light on the control panel will flash. If you press "Start" to run your job in this state, the job will begin and will trace out the entire design, HOWEVER, the standard invisible CO2 laser will be replaced with a red pointer dot (laser diode). This will let you test your layout and will calculate the job time. Be careful though, the red dot will be close, but not exactly where the laser will cut.

* You can use the X-Y mode to find positions on the print bed. Press the "X-Y" button and use the arrow pad to move the red pointer. The LCD displays the current x,y coordinates under the pointer. These coordinates can be used to position a work piece, and the values entered into CorelDraw. Use the up-down arrows and "Select" to choose "Re-home pointer" when finished. (Check the manual, linked below, for a more through explanation.)

* After the first time a job is run (including "pointer" test run mentioned above), during subsequent runs of the same job the control panel timer will change from a "count-up" timer to a "count-down" timer, telling you how much time remains on your job.

* You can press the "Pause" button on the control panel to pause your job. The laser cutter will finish the current line, then return the head to home. If it's in the middle of a raster, this will happen almost immediately, BUT if it's in the middle of a long cut line, the line will finish first. This may take several seconds. Your job can be resumed where it left off by pressing the "Resume" button. There may be a slight offset when resuming a job, especially if the system was in the middle of a raster. "Wait for the motion system to stop and move to the home position before opening any door otherwise the laser beam will not resume from the position it stopped at."

* Rastering an image on a full 24"x12" (width x height) piece of wood at the recommended settings of [Power 100, Speed 59, 500PPI ] will take 45-55 minutes. On a 24"x6" board, it will take about half that time. On a 12"x12" board, it will take about 10% less time than the full 24", so 40-50 minutes. For fastest raster time, orient your image so the longest dimension is aligned with the X axis.

=== Photo-quality raster images ===
'''Photo-quality raster images can be etched''' on material at high DPI(dots-per-inch)/PPI(pulses-per-inch). For example at 500 PPI on Acrylic.
* Open your image in [http://www.gimp.org/ The GIMP] or another program capable of editing photos. (CorelDraw doesn't support all the features we need.)
In GIMP:
* Click on "Image" --> "Mode" --> "Grayscale" to convert color to greyscale.
* Click on "Image" --> "Print Size" and set the X and Y Resolutions to the desired value (500 pixels/in).
* If you want to invert the grays (change black to white and white to black), click on "Colors" --> "Invert". The black portions are what will be etched. I recommend etching less instead of more; etching a large section of acrylic black will cause warping.
* If you need to adjust the gray levels, you can tweak the values using:
** "Colors" --> "Levels" OR
** "Colors" --> "Curves", You'll have to play around with these settings.
* Save your image with a new name and as a JPG or PNG.

=== Cleaning Acrylic Cuts ===

* Do not clean laser-cut acrylic with alcohol. "There is residual stress in a laser cut edge. The solvent breaks bonds and lets the plastic release the stress by cracking."--Wesley Faler.
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU9Ty0L0g7E What happens when you put alcohol on acrylic (short video)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Ammonia / Windex is also not recommended for cleaning]

* For masking paper adhesive residue, some (untested) suggestions are Goo Gone, WD-40, mineral oil, naptha, or even cooking oil

=== Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver ===
You can use the machine to directly measure on your material. See [[Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver]].

== Common Problems ==

=== My job didn't cut ===
'''Problem''': My design is in CorelDraw but all or a portion didn't cut.
Some causes of this include:
* The line thickness was not set to "hairline" or 0.001" inches and was ignored. (This color set to only "Vector" cut.)
* The line color is not one of the basic colors supported and was ignored.
* Driver setting for this chosen color set to "Skip".
* Driver set incorrectly to "Raster" or incorrectly to "Vector".
* Driver power level set to 0.
* Design is outside the 24" by 12" cut area.
* Design has transparency. This may manifest as vector lines rastering instead. Select the offending lines and set to "No Transparency" in the Object Properties.
* If a CorelDraw document has multiple pages (see tabs at bottom of Corel window) and you print "Current Document" then each page will be sent to the laser engraver. If a page is blank, it will still be sent, and will show up as a 0 power 0 speed document. Press the "Next >>" button to skip that blank page. NOTE: this may cause difficulty managing multiple jobs on the laser engraver, so avoid this situation by not printing blank pages.

=== My cut or etch isn't deep enough ===
'''Problem''': My cut or etch isn't deep enough.

Without moving anything or changing any settings, you can press "Start" again and the exact same job will be run a second time, cutting in the exact same places if the work piece hasn't been moved. If your material is too thick, the laser may not be focused correctly to cut all the way through. You might be able to fix this by adjusting the Z-axis slightly lower.

== Maintenance ==

'''Refer maintenance to qualified personnel. If no qualified personal are on-site, post in [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0H6JEBK6 #broken] and/or [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''

'''Lens'''
See [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/team/leebc Bryan Lee] for training on lens cleaning procedure. Otherwise, follow [https://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=YiN3J2WShQY this procedure].

''Maintenance Schedule and Summary'' (From the manual)

Since the maintenance requirements of the laser system is dependent on the type of material being run, the quantity of material being removed, the hours of operation, and the quality of the exhaust blower, it must be user defined. As a starting point, we recommend the following schedule:
* '''As necessary'''
** ''Engraving table'' -- soap solution, or alcohol or acetone, and paper towels.
** ''Main enclosure'' -- vacuum loose debris. Use soft cloth or paper towels and the soap solution to clean the enclosure.
** ''Top door window'' -- cotton cloth and the soap solution. The top window is made out of acrylic. DO NOT use paper towels because they will scratch the acrylic. Also, DO NOT use window cleaner, alcohol, or acetone, as these chemicals will crack the acrylic. Only use cleaners compatible with acrylic.
* '''Every 8 hours of engraving''' -- Turn off and unplug the laser system.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis rails and bearing tracks'' -- cotton swabs or paper towels, and alcohol or soap solution.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis bearings'' -- After the rails and tracks are cleaned, use a clean swab or paper towel, and alcohol to clean all of the bearings by holding the swab against each bearing and moving the motion system by hand to roll the bearings against the swab. There are seven bearings in the system, three (3) on the focus carriage, two (2) on the left side of the X-rail, and two (2) on the right side of the X-rail.
** ''Clean X-axis belt''.
** ''Check beam window, #2 mirror, #3 mirror, and focus lens for debris''. Clean ONLY if dirty. Do not clean immediately after use, optics will be hot. -- Refer this step to trained personal.

* '''Every month'''
** ''Clean cooling fan filters'' -- Wash the element in a soap and water solution, dry, and re-install. If scheduling prevents filters from being washed and dried, use a dust buster to carefully vacuum dust off the filters. Be certain to replace them with the same side out that they were removed.
** ''Clean and re-lubricate Z-axis lead screws'' -- The only lubrication that may be required [on the entire laser system] is the screw threads for the table lifting mechanism. After some time, contaminants can adhere to the lubricant, which can cause the engraving table to bind up or sound squeaky. If this is the case, wipe off the contaminated grease with a soft cloth dampened with alcohol and apply fresh white lithium grease to the screw threads. NEVER SPRAY ANY DEGREASING SOLUTIONS DIRECTLY ONTO THE THREADS. Run the table up and down to work in the fresh grease. Repeat if necessary.
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis belt wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Check and/or clean X-axis and Y-axis drive gears''
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis bearing wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Inspect system for loose screws and mechanical parts'' – tighten if necessary

* '''Every 6 months'''
** ''Exhaust plenum'' -- Remove it from the system. Using your soap and water solution, clean the inside of plenum as well as the inside rear wall of the Laser System.
** ''Blower fan'' -- Check blower fan screen for loose cut material (cardboard) that may have been sucked through the exhaust system and be restricting air flow.
** ''"Bucket" Filter Cleaning'' -- Cleaning is simply a matter of stabilizing the buckets so they don't twist, unscrew the top bucket's lid, remove the filter material, take it outside and clean, dry it, refold it (air must pass through 4 layers), reinsert it. The screen on the exhaust side can be removed, and cleaned. Soaking and/or brushing may be necessary. The other screen can not be removed. When done, and screw the top on.
*** The purpose of the exhaust filter is to reduce material passing through the exhaust blower "in the attic". The blowers were getting gunked up and needed to be exchanged every 6 months or so. We attempted to use a cyclonic system last year, but it did not allow enough airflow.
*** The current setup draws air from the enclosure, through a 4 inch flexible metal duct and into the bottom bucket. When air enters the bottom bucket, the volume expands, slowing the airflow (but not the total volume, cubic feet/minute). The flow impacts a baffle and some particles should stop moving and ultimately fall. The airflow changes direction several times, which should stop more particulates. The air enters the upper bucket and passes through the filter material, catching even more particulates. There's a perforated metal panel the air goes through, then up the stack into the blower, then up another stack out the vent in the roof.
*** Flow problems can happen if the hoses get kinked or excessively dirty inside.

== Related Links ==

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2Z051TVVwaldaUGM&authuser=0 Safety Warnings]

* [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX HackerSpace's list of Laser Cutter Materials]

* [https://festi.info/boxes.py/ Boxes.py] Generate SVGs for boxes. Includes boxes with FLEXIBLE, curved sides. Many output formats are available, use svg or pdf, and avoid dxf as it seems to add unnecessary vectors.

* [http://boxmaker.connectionlab.org/ Box Maker]

* [http://www.makercase.com/ MakerCase]

* [https://www.remove.bg/ Remove Image Background]

* [https://polygonia.design/ Rapidly Create Symmetrical Designs for Manufacturing]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DYNPk58hrpItedoqooGeMAFEw2Fem7AQ Universal Laser M360 Manual]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ioIpMk8M7658dY5rWBMrSJOM7g9V62d0 Cleaning tips from Epilog Laser]

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2MGExMF9OSnppZWc&authuser=0 Orientation Slide Deck]

* [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam Universal Laser's writeup on EVA foam]

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html Cardstock and Corrugated Boxes]

* [http://www.templatemaker.nl/ Free custom paper templates]

* [http://image.online-convert.com/ Online Image Converter]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/ Engraving Systems Support, whom THS bought our laser cutter from]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/equipment-support/universal-laser-systems-support/ ESS Support, search for M360]

* [http://parts.engravingsys.com/MVX-Laser-Parts Replacement Parts and Accessories]

* [https://github.com/vanillabox/OpenSCADBoxes OpenSCAD generated flex/living-hinge boxes]

* [https://3axis.co Free Vectors for Laser Cutting]

[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Fabrication]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

Tools: Universal M360 Laser Cutter

2023-09-29T14:58:06Z

Leebc: /* Other tips members have learned */ Added Raster times.

[[File:m360.jpg|250px|thumb|right|M360 Laser Cutter]]

The Universal M360 is a flexible tool for precise cutting and etching of flat materials like acrylic plastic and thin wood.

Use of the laser cutter requires the certification class.

'''If you are unsure about any aspect of laser cutter operation, cleaning, or maintenance, please ask for help in the [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''


== Tool Description ==
Universal Laser Cutter Model M360-60
* 60 Watt CO2 laser.
* 24” x 12” (609.6 x 304.8mm) cut bed.
* Flat Cutting Table or removable Honeycomb Cutting Table.
* High speed ventilation system for evacuation of fumes and particulates during cutting.
* CorelDraw
* Uses custom Windows print driver to specify laser intensities.
* Raster and Vector modes.
* 16 MB standard memory buffer.

== Safety ==

Do not operate the laser cutter without taking the class. Do not allow others to use the laser cutter unsupervised without ensuring that they have taken the class.

'''Always''' wear safety glasses while watching the laser cutter operate. These are the laser-specific dark safety glasses near the laser cutter. Clear or dark-tinted safety glasses, sunglasses, etc. are not adequate protection. The laser used for cutting / etching is not visible to the human eye but can cause significant damage to the eye.

'''Always''' use the ventilation fan. This is turned on via a power strip on the table. Leave the ventilation fan running for some time after completing your work to draw smoke and other gases out of the space. Please turn off the ventilation fan when not in use to keep air conditioning costs down. Notify us immediately if the ventilation fan seems weaker than usual.

'''Always''' supervise the laser cutter while in operation. The risk of fire varies by material but is always there.

Be considerate of others using the space. If possible, ''please'' refrain from operating the laser cutter during or immediately before a class or other Meetup due to noise and smell.

'''Note:''' The person operating the laser cutter is responsible for ensuring the safety of others in the area. Visitors, guests, and even other members may not know proper safety procedures. Ensure that they do not watch the laser operate without safety glasses.

Be aware of the nearest fire extinguishers:

* One just to the right of the laser-cutter
* One just inside kitchen
* One by front door

== Materials (what to use, and not use, it on) ==

There are a wide variety of materials that are safe to cut and etch.

=== '''Unsafe''' Materials to Cut or Etch ===

'''Never''' cut or etch these materials. Most of these will produce toxic gases when heated.

Note that many manufactured items that seem like good candidates for etching are made of PVC.

Note that it can be quite difficult to tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic plastics. If nothing else, a small test etch or cut will help determine which plastic the item is made from.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#NEVER_CUT_THESE_MATERIALS ATX HackerSpace].

* PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
* Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
* ABS
* HDPE/milk bottle plastic
* PolyStyrene Foam
* PolyPropylene Foam
* Fiberglass
* Coated Carbon Fiber
* Teflon (PTFE)

=== Safe Materials to Cut ===

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Cutting ATX HackerSpace].

* Many woods (successfully used at THS)
* Plywood/Composite woods (successfully used at THS)
* MDF/Engineered woods
* Paper, card stock (successfully used at THS)
* Marshmallows (successfully used at THS)
* Cardboard, carton (Thick cardboard will burn - the pockets are protected from the exhaust fan and air assist and will sustain a flame) (successfully used at THS)
* Cork
* Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA (acrylic successfully used at THS)
* Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
* Delrin (POM)
* Kapton tape (Polyimide)
* Mylar
* Solid Styrene
* Depron foam
* Gator foam
* EVA foam (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam ULS])
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton
* Leather/Suede (successfully used at THS)
* Magnetic Sheet
* NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber
* Neoprene rubber (according to [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/neoprene-rubber ULS])
* Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not had epoxy applied
* Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
* Chocolate (successfully used at THS)

=== Safe Materials to Etch ===

Some materials can't be cut, but can be lightly etched.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Etching From ATX HackerSpace].

* Most of the above "cut-safe" materials
* Glass
* Ceramic tile
* Anodized aluminum (Read special instructions for this material)
* Painted/coated metals (Read special instructions for this material)
* Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx. (Read special instructions for this material) (successfully used at THS)

=== Selecting Materials ===

* [http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/ Identifying unknown plastics (link)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Extruded vs. Cast Acrylic]

* Materials thicker than about 1/4 inch (6mm) may not cut cleanly through due to how/where the laser beam point focuses

=== Materials Available at the Space ===

We do not currently resell materials for use with the laser cutter.

We keep a steady supply of scrap 1/4 inch plywood and acrylic sheet at the space for free use. Please donate any useful scraps and dispose of pieces that are too small to be used.

There are a number of donated pieces of other plastics, some tiles, etc. kept near the laser cutter for free use. Be aware that some of this plastic may be polycarbonate or other materials.

We have a good amount of donated matte board (scraps from framing art) that cuts well. It is kept in a lateral file below the office supplies.

=== Where to buy acrylic ===
* [http://www.farcoplastics.com/ Farco Plastics Supply] (in Clearwater) Recommended by a few of our members.
* [http://www.plasticsamerica.com/ Plastics America] (out towards Brandon.) "They price by the square foot and charge a single cut fee per order so you benefit from buying in quantity. Buying one or two pieces from them can get expensive. I think I recall the cut fee being $12ish." -- Bill
* [http://www.delviesplastics.com/ Delvie's Plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.estreetplastics.com/ e street plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.ceruleantides.com/ Cerulean Tides] (Ft. Lauderdale) "Ships same day via UPS", is usually at my door the next day."
* [https://www.engraving-supplies.com/ Trotec / engraving-supplies.com] (on line, also carries wood)

=== Where to buy wood ===

Home Depot and Lowes sell 1/4" (and some other thicknesses) plywood as "project panel" / "luan" (cheap but often has knots in middle layers that may need multiple passes or a knife/saw to cut through)

Michaels, Joann's, Blick, and others carry Midwest Products birch plywood (not cheap but look for Joann's coupons)

[https://www.cardsofwood.com/product/wood-panels/ Cards of Wood]

[https://aircraftplywood.com/products/ Aircraft Plywood] (recommended by [https://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/blog/?p=6042 Nervous Systems])

Also see: [https://wiki.tampahackerspace.com/Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood '''Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood''']

== Tool Use ==

* Videos: We have videos uploaded instructing on [https://youtu.be/hCUCX2dZWiU](removing/installing air assist cone) and [https://youtu.be/WrXSZ3RTzKs](setting the z-height)
* '''Check lens. If you have been trained in lens cleaning, Clean only if necessary (see '''Maintenance''' section below for procedures)'''
* Create a new document in CorelDraw that is 24"Wx12"H
* Load SVG or create design. Use only the 8 supported colors.
* "Print" design
** Before clicking "OK" to print, go to "Preferences" and set appropriate values for each color.
** Review information from the class on how to do this.
** Review Laser Cutter documentation and log book for what settings to use.
* Turn on the exhaust fan.
* Power on Laser Cutter.
* If air assist nozzle is installed, turn on its air
* Put masking on your material to reduce scorching. (We have a large roll of self-adhesive masking in the Laser Cutter work area.)
* Place material on the cut bed.
* Set the Z-axis height and return the focus alignment tool to it's storage location.
* Close all Laser Cutter doors.
* Press "Next ==>" on the laser cutter control panel to use the most recently printed file.
* Double check your work.
* Press "Start".
* '''Never leave the Laser Cutter unattended!'''
* When done, turn off exhaust fan, and air assist (if applicable)
* ''Write a short entry about your print job in the Log Book about who, when, what you cut, what settings you used, and the cut duration.''

== Software ==

=== Corel Draw ===
[https://www.coreldraw.com Corel Draw] [https://www.genesis-technologies.com/coreldraw-graphics-suite-2021-for-windows-download.html 2021 (Academic and Non-Profit)] is provided on the Laser Engraver workstation. The about page reports Version 23.1.0.389. It is used for job layout, as well as building vector (and other) images for cutting.

=== Inkscape ===

[https://inkscape.org/en/ Inkscape] is a free Open Source vector graphics editor that you can use to get used to the overall concept of vector based graphics design. However, be aware that there are certain issues you must face when transferring your design to the laser printer.

Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw using SVG format, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%. PDF and certain other formats do not suffer from this problem and are the preferred method of import.

''Note: As of Inkscape 0.92 the default resolution has been changed to 96dpi to match the CSS standard and now matches that of CorelDraw. The information on scaling may be needed only if using an older version of Inkscape.''

See [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Using_Inkscape_with_the_Laser_Cutter this guide] by the ATX Hackerspace for help.

=== Adobe Illustrator ===
Illustrator could be used, but specifics haven't been documented here.

=== Other ===
There are others, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_vector_graphics_editors

== Tips and Tricks ==

Since the terms are used repeatedly used in this document, here's [http://vector-conversions.com/vectorizing/raster_vs_vector.html the difference] between [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics Raster] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics Vector] images.

=== Design tips from the first class ===
* Set your page size to 24"W x 12"H.
* Placing your image at the top left corner cuts it from the top left corner.
* Keep a 1/8" margin in case the laser (or bed, or material) is slightly out of alignment.
* Vector cuts should use line widths of 0.001" or hairline. Anything wider than 0.005" will be rasterized and not cut the way you expect. You can draw with wider lines and reset them before printing in CorelDraw using "Select All" then "Object" --> "Fill And Stroke" to reset all lines to 0.001".
* Draw your "cut" lines in red, and "etch" lines in blue or green. Anything you want to rasterize should be in monochrome/greyscale. (Advanced users can use more colors for more things...but if you know enough to do this, then you don't need to be told how.)
* Lines with colors not set to 255 for any RGB value or less than 100% opacity will be treated as black and rasterized or worse, ignored, by the print driver.[SIC] Don't use color models other than RGB.
* '''Problem''': I created an SVG in Inkscape but when I import it into CorelDraw it's the wrong size. --- Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%

=== Other tips members have learned ===

* CorelDraw lets you do math inside the size entry fields. For example, if you have a Width that is 4.228 in, you can append to that "+1.25" and CorelDraw will change the value to 5.478 in. Furthermore, you can enter values in either "standard" or metric units and CorelDraw will recalculate the value in the document's default units. For example: if the document is set to inches and you entered "65mm" CorelDraw will do the calculation and set the value to 2.5590 inches.

* If you realize you forgot to turn on the vent, you should quickly turn on the vent! But it's better to not forget to turn it on in the first place.

* It may be helpful to use the restroom/get a drink/stretch/etc before starting a particular long (complex) job. DO NOT leave laser cutter unattended while cutting or etching.

* You can use scrap material (pieces that have already been cut) to test out a design, or for a finished piece if it is the right size. There is a bin of "scrap material" kept near the laser cutter.

* Etching a large section of thin acrylic will cause warping.

* If you are etching an oddly shaped and curved surface (for example a pumpkin), try setting the Z-height to the "median" (middle) height you are etching.

* Refer to the following table for spot sizes (the width of the cut, or "kerf") and focal ranges of the lenses available. (Note: The Tampa Hackerspace only has the 2.0 lens, the others are presented for completeness.)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| FOCAL LENGTH
| SPOT SIZE
| FOCAL RANGE
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 1.5 “
| .003 “
| + / - .075 “
|-
| 2.0 “
| .005 “
| + / - .100 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 2.5 “
| .007 “
| + / - .125 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 4.0 “
| .013 “
| + / - .200 “
|}

* You can use the "pointer" mode to "proof" a design. If the any of the doors are open, the red light on the control panel will flash. If you press "Start" to run your job in this state, the job will begin and will trace out the entire design, HOWEVER, the standard invisible CO2 laser will be replaced with a red pointer dot (laser diode). This will let you test your layout and will calculate the job time. Be careful though, the red dot will be close, but not exactly where the laser will cut.

* You can use the X-Y mode to find positions on the print bed. Press the "X-Y" button and use the arrow pad to move the red pointer. The LCD displays the current x,y coordinates under the pointer. These coordinates can be used to position a work piece, and the values entered into CorelDraw. Use the up-down arrows and "Select" to choose "Re-home pointer" when finished. (Check the manual, linked below, for a more through explanation.)

* After the first time a job is run (including "pointer" test run mentioned above), during subsequent runs of the same job the control panel timer will change from a "count-up" timer to a "count-down" timer, telling you how much time remains on your job.

* You can press the "Pause" button on the control panel to pause your job. The laser cutter will finish the current line, then return the head to home. If it's in the middle of a raster, this will happen almost immediately, BUT if it's in the middle of a long cut line, the line will finish first. This may take several seconds. Your job can be resumed where it left off by pressing the "Resume" button. There may be a slight offset when resuming a job, especially if the system was in the middle of a raster. "Wait for the motion system to stop and move to the home position before opening any door otherwise the laser beam will not resume from the position it stopped at."

* Rastering an image on a full 24"x12" (width x height) piece of wood at the recommended settings of [Power 100, Speed 59, 500PPI ] will take 45-55 minutes. On a 24"x6" board, it will take about half that time. On a 12"x12" board, it will take about 10% less time than the full 24", so 40-50 minutes. For fastest raster time, orient your image so the longest dimension is aligned with the X axis.

=== Photo-quality raster images ===
'''Photo-quality raster images can be etched''' on material at high DPI(dots-per-inch)/PPI(pulses-per-inch). For example at 500 PPI on Acrylic.
* Open your image in [http://www.gimp.org/ The GIMP] or another program capable of editing photos. (CorelDraw doesn't support all the features we need.)
In GIMP:
* Click on "Image" --> "Mode" --> "Grayscale" to convert color to greyscale.
* Click on "Image" --> "Print Size" and set the X and Y Resolutions to the desired value (500 pixels/in).
* If you want to invert the grays (change black to white and white to black), click on "Colors" --> "Invert". The black portions are what will be etched. I recommend etching less instead of more; etching a large section of acrylic black will cause warping.
* If you need to adjust the gray levels, you can tweak the values using:
** "Colors" --> "Levels" OR
** "Colors" --> "Curves", You'll have to play around with these settings.
* Save your image with a new name and as a JPG or PNG.

=== Cleaning Acrylic Cuts ===

* Do not clean laser-cut acrylic with alcohol. "There is residual stress in a laser cut edge. The solvent breaks bonds and lets the plastic release the stress by cracking."--Wesley Faler.
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU9Ty0L0g7E What happens when you put alcohol on acrylic (short video)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Ammonia / Windex is also not recommended for cleaning]

* For masking paper adhesive residue, some (untested) suggestions are Goo Gone, WD-40, mineral oil, naptha, or even cooking oil

=== Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver ===
You can use the machine to directly measure on your material. See [[Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver]].

== Common Problems ==

=== My job didn't cut ===
'''Problem''': My design is in CorelDraw but all or a portion didn't cut.
Some causes of this include:
* The line thickness was not set to "hairline" or 0.001" inches and was ignored. (This color set to only "Vector" cut.)
* The line color is not one of the basic colors supported and was ignored.
* Driver setting for this chosen color set to "Skip".
* Driver set incorrectly to "Raster" or incorrectly to "Vector".
* Driver power level set to 0.
* Design is outside the 24" by 12" cut area.
* Design has transparency. This may manifest as vector lines rastering instead. Select the offending lines and set to "No Transparency" in the Object Properties.

=== My cut or etch isn't deep enough ===
'''Problem''': My cut or etch isn't deep enough.

Without moving anything or changing any settings, you can press "Start" again and the exact same job will be run a second time, cutting in the exact same places if the work piece hasn't been moved. If your material is too thick, the laser may not be focused correctly to cut all the way through. You might be able to fix this by adjusting the Z-axis slightly lower.

== Maintenance ==

'''Refer maintenance to qualified personnel. If no qualified personal are on-site, post in [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0H6JEBK6 #broken] and/or [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''

'''Lens'''
See [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/team/leebc Bryan Lee] for training on lens cleaning procedure. Otherwise, follow [https://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=YiN3J2WShQY this procedure].

''Maintenance Schedule and Summary'' (From the manual)

Since the maintenance requirements of the laser system is dependent on the type of material being run, the quantity of material being removed, the hours of operation, and the quality of the exhaust blower, it must be user defined. As a starting point, we recommend the following schedule:
* '''As necessary'''
** ''Engraving table'' -- soap solution, or alcohol or acetone, and paper towels.
** ''Main enclosure'' -- vacuum loose debris. Use soft cloth or paper towels and the soap solution to clean the enclosure.
** ''Top door window'' -- cotton cloth and the soap solution. The top window is made out of acrylic. DO NOT use paper towels because they will scratch the acrylic. Also, DO NOT use window cleaner, alcohol, or acetone, as these chemicals will crack the acrylic. Only use cleaners compatible with acrylic.
* '''Every 8 hours of engraving''' -- Turn off and unplug the laser system.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis rails and bearing tracks'' -- cotton swabs or paper towels, and alcohol or soap solution.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis bearings'' -- After the rails and tracks are cleaned, use a clean swab or paper towel, and alcohol to clean all of the bearings by holding the swab against each bearing and moving the motion system by hand to roll the bearings against the swab. There are seven bearings in the system, three (3) on the focus carriage, two (2) on the left side of the X-rail, and two (2) on the right side of the X-rail.
** ''Clean X-axis belt''.
** ''Check beam window, #2 mirror, #3 mirror, and focus lens for debris''. Clean ONLY if dirty. Do not clean immediately after use, optics will be hot. -- Refer this step to trained personal.

* '''Every month'''
** ''Clean cooling fan filters'' -- Wash the element in a soap and water solution, dry, and re-install. If scheduling prevents filters from being washed and dried, use a dust buster to carefully vacuum dust off the filters. Be certain to replace them with the same side out that they were removed.
** ''Clean and re-lubricate Z-axis lead screws'' -- The only lubrication that may be required [on the entire laser system] is the screw threads for the table lifting mechanism. After some time, contaminants can adhere to the lubricant, which can cause the engraving table to bind up or sound squeaky. If this is the case, wipe off the contaminated grease with a soft cloth dampened with alcohol and apply fresh white lithium grease to the screw threads. NEVER SPRAY ANY DEGREASING SOLUTIONS DIRECTLY ONTO THE THREADS. Run the table up and down to work in the fresh grease. Repeat if necessary.
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis belt wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Check and/or clean X-axis and Y-axis drive gears''
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis bearing wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Inspect system for loose screws and mechanical parts'' – tighten if necessary

* '''Every 6 months'''
** ''Exhaust plenum'' -- Remove it from the system. Using your soap and water solution, clean the inside of plenum as well as the inside rear wall of the Laser System.
** ''Blower fan'' -- Check blower fan screen for loose cut material (cardboard) that may have been sucked through the exhaust system and be restricting air flow.
** ''"Bucket" Filter Cleaning'' -- Cleaning is simply a matter of stabilizing the buckets so they don't twist, unscrew the top bucket's lid, remove the filter material, take it outside and clean, dry it, refold it (air must pass through 4 layers), reinsert it. The screen on the exhaust side can be removed, and cleaned. Soaking and/or brushing may be necessary. The other screen can not be removed. When done, and screw the top on.
*** The purpose of the exhaust filter is to reduce material passing through the exhaust blower "in the attic". The blowers were getting gunked up and needed to be exchanged every 6 months or so. We attempted to use a cyclonic system last year, but it did not allow enough airflow.
*** The current setup draws air from the enclosure, through a 4 inch flexible metal duct and into the bottom bucket. When air enters the bottom bucket, the volume expands, slowing the airflow (but not the total volume, cubic feet/minute). The flow impacts a baffle and some particles should stop moving and ultimately fall. The airflow changes direction several times, which should stop more particulates. The air enters the upper bucket and passes through the filter material, catching even more particulates. There's a perforated metal panel the air goes through, then up the stack into the blower, then up another stack out the vent in the roof.
*** Flow problems can happen if the hoses get kinked or excessively dirty inside.

== Related Links ==

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2Z051TVVwaldaUGM&authuser=0 Safety Warnings]

* [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX HackerSpace's list of Laser Cutter Materials]

* [https://festi.info/boxes.py/ Boxes.py] Generate SVGs for boxes. Includes boxes with FLEXIBLE, curved sides. Many output formats are available, use svg or pdf, and avoid dxf as it seems to add unnecessary vectors.

* [http://boxmaker.connectionlab.org/ Box Maker]

* [http://www.makercase.com/ MakerCase]

* [https://www.remove.bg/ Remove Image Background]

* [https://polygonia.design/ Rapidly Create Symmetrical Designs for Manufacturing]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DYNPk58hrpItedoqooGeMAFEw2Fem7AQ Universal Laser M360 Manual]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ioIpMk8M7658dY5rWBMrSJOM7g9V62d0 Cleaning tips from Epilog Laser]

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2MGExMF9OSnppZWc&authuser=0 Orientation Slide Deck]

* [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam Universal Laser's writeup on EVA foam]

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html Cardstock and Corrugated Boxes]

* [http://www.templatemaker.nl/ Free custom paper templates]

* [http://image.online-convert.com/ Online Image Converter]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/ Engraving Systems Support, whom THS bought our laser cutter from]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/equipment-support/universal-laser-systems-support/ ESS Support, search for M360]

* [http://parts.engravingsys.com/MVX-Laser-Parts Replacement Parts and Accessories]

* [https://github.com/vanillabox/OpenSCADBoxes OpenSCAD generated flex/living-hinge boxes]

* [https://3axis.co Free Vectors for Laser Cutting]

[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Fabrication]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

PVC Lightsaber Class

2023-09-15T00:02:34Z

Leebc: /* Build Your Own PVC Lightsaber Class */

= Build Your Own PVC Lightsaber Class =

Placeholder

Attention Wiki Editors: this is a placeholder for me to make notes about a PCV lightsaber class. Today is September 11, 2023. If there have been no edits (or class) for this in a really long time (a couple years), feel free to poke me about it.

Meet up announcement.

General class description
Prerequisites./Requirements.

Materials required for class
Tools that will be utilized
Parts to 3-D print
cost of class
Electronics:
> By large LED bulb I'm guessing you mean the 10mm LEDs? Use 3 AAA's and put a 240 ohm resistor in series with the LED. Some of the LEDs might be dimmer, some brighter, but they all should light.

The Crystal quest.

PVC Lightsaber Class

2023-09-11T16:57:56Z

Leebc: /* Build Your Own PVC Lightsaber Class */ Voice, dictation, initial summary/outline

PVC Lightsaber Class

2023-09-11T16:17:50Z

Leebc: Created page with "= Build Your Own PVC Lightsaber Class = Placeholder Attention Wiki Editors: this is a placeholder for me to make notes about a PCV lightsaber class. Today is September 11, 2023. If there have been no edits (or class) for this in a really long time (a couple years), feel free to poke me about it."

User:Leebc

2023-09-11T16:15:35Z

Leebc: /* Research */ Added link to PVC Lightsaber class so i can create the page for notes.

== About me ==

=== What I Make ===

=== Classes I Teach ===

* None.

'''Classes I could be talked into teaching if there is enough explicit interest:'''
* "Designing laser-cuttable model buildings for D&D, railroad, and other miniatures terrain"
* "Introduction to pottery: Pinch pots, coil pots, and slab pots" (This may be 2 or 3 separate classes.
* "Designing 3d printable furniture in OpenSCAD"
* "A method for creating UV maps/textures for 3d models for use in Unity3d"
*

=== Interests ===
* MAPS!
* Laser cutting flat things and turning into 3d things
* Visualizing strange data

=== Slack Channels I post in ===

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C64QUN85R #astronomy]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CENRLHAE6 #spacetech]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C17029YC9 #sewing-and-textiles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0259RYHBDY #kilns]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CJQ9YPFJ4 #cosplay]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0419EWAEJ2 #3d-modeling]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C01MJUQS3F0 #science-articles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C6TRESTC7 #VR]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C026U6Z3E7R #random-bryan-shares]

== Some of my projects ==
=== Maps! ===
[[File:CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay.jpg|thumb|CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay]]

=== Laser cut DOMES! ===

== Research ==

=== Lasercut Frames ===
'''Some collected thoughts on laser-cutting picture frame'''

'''Asked in slack and on facebook:'''
* Does anyone have any thoughts on finishing laser-cut picture frames?
* I could cut multiple parts out of 1/8th" or 1/16th" material and glue together, but my real concern and question is about finishing the edges.
* MDF or acrylic would have a clean edge, and the whole thing could be painted... but what if you were using 1/8" or 1/4" plywood?
* Can you think of a material that would be better for picture frames?
* How hard is it to work with a stick-on veneer?
* What kind of paint?

'''Some suggestions include:'''
* vinyl wrap the frame
* "Cheaper material like Plywood could get cleaned up with some of the same techniques and materials as 3d printed parts, Water putty/spot putty to fill in voids and then sand able primer and you can get a very clean surface to paint to get the same finish as solid wood parts."
* Another suggestion is to laser-cut a bevel using a jig. This should work if the frame pieces are thin enough and narrow enough.
* Acrylic mirror could be really nice.
* I love stick on veneer. I laser cut it and use it with finished plywood in layers. I just make sure to laser myself a template on the bottom layer because it’s really hard to line stuff up without it. I also like the look of veneer on top of acrylic too.
* Otherwise I feel like a [beveled] edge is really a nice finish for frames if you have the tools. So I would probably do that then paint/stain, spray with the triple thick clear topcoat (sand in between coats) if I want the grain or maybe top it with a thin layer of resin if not. I’m kinda addicted to how easy and quick UV resin is but regular resin would be so quick if you had several to do.
* It's not really a frame. The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.



'''Acrylic mirror:'''
* Could make a mirror by cutting a back plate of mirrored acrylic, then acrylic cement or CA glue on some black or white strips of acrylic like this <image>. Maybe put some round or shaped holes in them so the mirror...uh... mirrors through.
* Or could paint the black & white on using masking as a template or use a thin veneer so the mirror isn’t too shadowed
* Acrylic frame with mirrored edges (black background) <other image>
[[File:313353003 5725989027439741 246525687503688386 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|left|alt=The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.]]
[[File:312977638 5725916744113636 7646024862373953283 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|alt=Acrylic mirror example. mirrored back with cur acrylic pieces to attach on top of the mirror at the edges]]
[[File:Acrylic picture frame example 1.jpg|50:50px|thumb|none|alt=An example of an acrylic picture frame|An example of an acrylic picture frame]]

=== Living Hinges ===

=== Make Your Own Lightsaber Handle from PVC ===
[[PVC Lightsaber Class]]

User:Leebc

2023-09-11T16:11:14Z

Leebc: /* Some of my projects */

== About me ==

=== What I Make ===

=== Classes I Teach ===

* None.

'''Classes I could be talked into teaching if there is enough explicit interest:'''
* "Designing laser-cuttable model buildings for D&D, railroad, and other miniatures terrain"
* "Introduction to pottery: Pinch pots, coil pots, and slab pots" (This may be 2 or 3 separate classes.
* "Designing 3d printable furniture in OpenSCAD"
* "A method for creating UV maps/textures for 3d models for use in Unity3d"
*

=== Interests ===
* MAPS!
* Laser cutting flat things and turning into 3d things
* Visualizing strange data

=== Slack Channels I post in ===

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C64QUN85R #astronomy]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CENRLHAE6 #spacetech]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C17029YC9 #sewing-and-textiles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0259RYHBDY #kilns]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CJQ9YPFJ4 #cosplay]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0419EWAEJ2 #3d-modeling]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C01MJUQS3F0 #science-articles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C6TRESTC7 #VR]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C026U6Z3E7R #random-bryan-shares]

== Some of my projects ==
=== Maps! ===
[[File:CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay.jpg|thumb|CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay]]

=== Laser cut DOMES! ===

== Research ==

=== Lasercut Frames ===
'''Some collected thoughts on laser-cutting picture frame'''

'''Asked in slack and on facebook:'''
* Does anyone have any thoughts on finishing laser-cut picture frames?
* I could cut multiple parts out of 1/8th" or 1/16th" material and glue together, but my real concern and question is about finishing the edges.
* MDF or acrylic would have a clean edge, and the whole thing could be painted... but what if you were using 1/8" or 1/4" plywood?
* Can you think of a material that would be better for picture frames?
* How hard is it to work with a stick-on veneer?
* What kind of paint?

'''Some suggestions include:'''
* vinyl wrap the frame
* "Cheaper material like Plywood could get cleaned up with some of the same techniques and materials as 3d printed parts, Water putty/spot putty to fill in voids and then sand able primer and you can get a very clean surface to paint to get the same finish as solid wood parts."
* Another suggestion is to laser-cut a bevel using a jig. This should work if the frame pieces are thin enough and narrow enough.
* Acrylic mirror could be really nice.
* I love stick on veneer. I laser cut it and use it with finished plywood in layers. I just make sure to laser myself a template on the bottom layer because it’s really hard to line stuff up without it. I also like the look of veneer on top of acrylic too.
* Otherwise I feel like a [beveled] edge is really a nice finish for frames if you have the tools. So I would probably do that then paint/stain, spray with the triple thick clear topcoat (sand in between coats) if I want the grain or maybe top it with a thin layer of resin if not. I’m kinda addicted to how easy and quick UV resin is but regular resin would be so quick if you had several to do.
* It's not really a frame. The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.



'''Acrylic mirror:'''
* Could make a mirror by cutting a back plate of mirrored acrylic, then acrylic cement or CA glue on some black or white strips of acrylic like this <image>. Maybe put some round or shaped holes in them so the mirror...uh... mirrors through.
* Or could paint the black & white on using masking as a template or use a thin veneer so the mirror isn’t too shadowed
* Acrylic frame with mirrored edges (black background) <other image>
[[File:313353003 5725989027439741 246525687503688386 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|left|alt=The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.]]
[[File:312977638 5725916744113636 7646024862373953283 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|alt=Acrylic mirror example. mirrored back with cur acrylic pieces to attach on top of the mirror at the edges]]
[[File:Acrylic picture frame example 1.jpg|50:50px|thumb|none|alt=An example of an acrylic picture frame|An example of an acrylic picture frame]]

=== Living Hinges ===

HP Designjet-T1100ps printer-leebcs writeup

2023-07-16T05:35:12Z

Leebc: created initial page

I used my Ubuntu 18.04 Linux laptop and the wider (old looking) HP Designet-T1100ps printer. I can't vouch for any other combination, but some of this will still apply.

The printer is/was in the middle of the whiteboard wall in the large room in 4931.

There is/was a roll of 42 inch "regular" paper on it. There is/was a roll of photo paper in a box under/behind that printer if you really need glossy.

Be aware that some of the colors may be flakey and not "true".

I should probably mention that 42 inches is BIG!Recent discussions in the member meetings have talked about getting rid of this printer and adopting one of the other 2 that are next to it.. So the HP Designet-T1100ps might disappear at some point.There is a long USB cable connected to the printer. All I had to do was plug the usb into my laptop and it just found the driver and was ready to go.

I recommend sitting on the far side of the table and running the USB across so that there is room to pull the printer out from the wall, and so that you can more easily watch (glance up at) it while it is printing.

You will need room to walk behind and in front of the printer.Any of these cause the printer to go through a several minute long cleaning and testing process: Power on; start a print; finish a print; load paper; unload paper; paper jam; yell at the printer; breath too heavily on the printer. It's not that it's sensitive, it just takes a long time, be patient and plan to spend 90 minutes messing with each print. The printing itself seemed surprisingly fast, everything else is slow. Avoid doing the things mentioned.The HP Designet-T1100ps printer has a built in cutter and will cut your print job off when it is finished (with it's post print cleaning).

There is a "basket-thing" between the legs that folds to the front that will catch completed print jobs. Multiple consecutative print jobs do not require the printer to clean itself before cutting and releasing your job. This is probably so it is not turned off after a print but before it can finish self-cleaning.Ink: The policy was "Ink on this printer is expensive. Please donate $X per linear foot of your print job."

However, recent discussion have talked about getting rid of this printer. If we keep the printer and buy more ink, I'm willing to contribute $, but if we're getting rid of it, I am just helping to use up the last of the ink.
Please act as you see fit.

There is a control panel on the top front of the printer. Features like load/unload paper are available there. It also tells you that the paper jammed and to reload it.
NOTE: After you load paper, the control panel wants you to specify the type of paper: photo/heavy/regular/etc.
The new paper is rolled on tubes. There are blue "plugs" that go into the tubes and allow the machine to hold the paper on it's spindle. Make sure the paper is rolled snugly on the tube.

There is a lever on the left top side (looking from the front) of the machine that needs to be operated during loading/unloading. The control panel will tell you this.
Don't drop the photo paper on the floor.If you get a crinkled/torn paper jam or are loading paper, you will probably need to cut the end off first.

I recommend:
* Unload the paper.
* Close the printer lid.
* Pull the paper up over the top of the printer. There are slots that go across the top of the printer that are perpendicular to the paper.
* Use a razorblade riding in these clots to cut the paper straight, all the way across.
* The printer WILL complain if the corners of the paper are messed up. I tried with scissors but my corners weren't square enough, so I used my utility knife. The cut doesn't need to be completely straight, '''but it does need to be square'''
* Loading the paper wasn't hard, but I kept holding my breath, not sure if it worked. Because it took a while and that cleaning cycle.

* The control panel menu has an option to cut the paper. So if you load a ragged, jagged edge, use this option to cut a clean one.

Once I got the driver installed and the paper loaded, I went into the printer properties:
You probably don't want to scale or resize anything. Minimal margins.

= Printer options: =
* Set a custom media size. The paper on the machine is 42 inches wide, and i set the length to...something stupid like 100 inches.
* Paper source is Roll.
* I'm not sure about any color settings.
* I removed top/bottom blank areas, thought you might need it depending on how your image is setup.
Job options:
* probably don't scale to fit (edited)

Software:
I use the GIMP (Gnu Image Manipulation Program. It is an open-source alternative to Photoshop. You would probably do similar things in photoshop.

= Existing document: =
Open your existing large image file in Gimp.

* Image menu --> properties: Verify the size, both in pixels and print size. One of the dimensions will need to be 42 inches or less. Either the height or the width can ultimately be 42 inches. We can rotate it. (see below)

When scaling or resizing, there is a padlock icon. :lock:/:unlock: When this is on/locked it will preserve the width to height ratio. For these operations, you probably want it ON/locked/:lock:Check the edges of the image. There may be undesired whitespace (or non white space) near the edges that you don't want to print.

You can use the rectangle selection tool to select the portion of the large image that you want to print.

* Image menu --> crop to selection: will crop the entire image to just the portion you have selected

* Image menu --> canvas size: To change the size of your canvas
* Image menu --> print size: set the size the image will print as. One of your dimensions has a max length of your paper width.
* Image menu --> Mode: Lets you change the image to grayscale if you don't want color
* Image menu --> Scale image : Lets you rescale the image to a larger or smaller size. Click "scale" to perform this operation. If the size is wrong, Ctrl-Z/undo will undo it. Remember to lock the aspect ratio :lock: when scaling.
Remember: Either the width or the height can be the paper width.

Use the above tools to resize it so that either the width or the height is the paper width (42 inches)If the image is wider than it is tall, use

* Image menu --> Transform --> Rotate 90' clockwise/counter-clockwise: rotate the image 1/4 turn. It doesn't matter with direction you choose.

Test print your layout: Test the layout by printing only 1 or 2 inches tall of this image. For this test print go to

* Image menu --> canvas size: unlock the aspect ratio :unlock: and change the height to either 1 or 2 inches tall. Keep the width at 42 inches.
* Image menu --> Print size: Verify it will only print 1-2 inch in height
* File menu --> Print: make sure the HP-Designjet-T1100ps is selected

Page setup: Make sure the paper size shown is 42 inches wide and some large number tall. if not, you may need to create a custom paper size.
Job: No cover page!!
Print or Print Preview.

The job will take a couple minutes to transfer to the printer.
The printer will then take a few minutes to pre-clean itself.
The job will take a comparably short time to print, probably 1-2 minutes.
The printer will take a few minutes to post-clean.
The printer will cut your job and your thin strip of paper will fall down.Verify that your job looks like it will be correct.
Check that the width is the desired width and not, say 50% or 25% of the desired width.
Check that the color is kinda acceptable.

Now in Gimp, pressing Ctrl-Z/undo should undo the last operation, restoring your document size to the full height.

* Image menu --> canvas size: verify it is the full height
* Image menu --> Print size: verify it is the full height

=Print it!=

* File menu --> Print: make sure the HP-Designjet-T1100ps is selected

Page setup: Make sure the paper size shown is 42 inches wide and some large number tall.
If not, you may need to create a custom paper size.
Job: No cover page!!
Print or Print Preview.

Check that the "catch basket" at the front of the printer is open to catch your job.The job will take a couple minutes to transfer to the printer. The printer will then take a few minutes to pre-clean itself. The job will take a slightly longer time to print, probably 4-10 minutes. The printer will take a few minutes to post-clean. The printer will cut your job and job will fall down. (edited)

=New document:=
Create a new document that is 42 inches (the paper width) wide, and however long you need. You may get a warning about it being a large document and using a lot of memory.Draw your image. Or open something. You can open multiple images and copy-paste parts into your final product. This is left as an exercise for the user.See notes above about resizing.
Perform a test print as above.
Final print as above.

Category:Printers

2023-07-16T05:19:52Z

Leebc: /* Printers Available */

== Printers Available ==

=== Xante X-32 UV Ink Printer ===

: 2/1/23 currently not in service
: [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1b1jitnhOoKqbbbeebZe6dkn6TvxCvYs0 [manual]]

=== HP Designet-T1100ps wide-format (44 inches) printer ===
: [[HP Designet-T1100ps printer-leebcs writeup|leebc's writeup for usage]]
: 2023-07-16 May go away soon

[[Category:Main]]

User:Leebc

2023-05-18T19:38:53Z

Leebc: /* Some of my projects */

== About me ==

=== What I Make ===

=== Classes I Teach ===

* None.

'''Classes I could be talked into teaching if there is enough explicit interest:'''
* "Designing laser-cuttable model buildings for D&D, railroad, and other miniatures terrain"
* "Introduction to pottery: Pinch pots, coil pots, and slab pots" (This may be 2 or 3 separate classes.
* "Designing 3d printable furniture in OpenSCAD"
* "A method for creating UV maps/textures for 3d models for use in Unity3d"
*

=== Interests ===
* MAPS!
* Laser cutting flat things and turning into 3d things
* Visualizing strange data

=== Slack Channels I post in ===

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C64QUN85R #astronomy]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CENRLHAE6 #spacetech]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C17029YC9 #sewing-and-textiles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0259RYHBDY #kilns]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CJQ9YPFJ4 #cosplay]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0419EWAEJ2 #3d-modeling]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C01MJUQS3F0 #science-articles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C6TRESTC7 #VR]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C026U6Z3E7R #random-bryan-shares]

== Some of my projects ==
=== Maps! ===
[[File:CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay.jpg|thumb|CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay]]

== Research ==

=== Lasercut Frames ===
'''Some collected thoughts on laser-cutting picture frame'''

'''Asked in slack and on facebook:'''
* Does anyone have any thoughts on finishing laser-cut picture frames?
* I could cut multiple parts out of 1/8th" or 1/16th" material and glue together, but my real concern and question is about finishing the edges.
* MDF or acrylic would have a clean edge, and the whole thing could be painted... but what if you were using 1/8" or 1/4" plywood?
* Can you think of a material that would be better for picture frames?
* How hard is it to work with a stick-on veneer?
* What kind of paint?

'''Some suggestions include:'''
* vinyl wrap the frame
* "Cheaper material like Plywood could get cleaned up with some of the same techniques and materials as 3d printed parts, Water putty/spot putty to fill in voids and then sand able primer and you can get a very clean surface to paint to get the same finish as solid wood parts."
* Another suggestion is to laser-cut a bevel using a jig. This should work if the frame pieces are thin enough and narrow enough.
* Acrylic mirror could be really nice.
* I love stick on veneer. I laser cut it and use it with finished plywood in layers. I just make sure to laser myself a template on the bottom layer because it’s really hard to line stuff up without it. I also like the look of veneer on top of acrylic too.
* Otherwise I feel like a [beveled] edge is really a nice finish for frames if you have the tools. So I would probably do that then paint/stain, spray with the triple thick clear topcoat (sand in between coats) if I want the grain or maybe top it with a thin layer of resin if not. I’m kinda addicted to how easy and quick UV resin is but regular resin would be so quick if you had several to do.
* It's not really a frame. The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.



'''Acrylic mirror:'''
* Could make a mirror by cutting a back plate of mirrored acrylic, then acrylic cement or CA glue on some black or white strips of acrylic like this <image>. Maybe put some round or shaped holes in them so the mirror...uh... mirrors through.
* Or could paint the black & white on using masking as a template or use a thin veneer so the mirror isn’t too shadowed
* Acrylic frame with mirrored edges (black background) <other image>
[[File:313353003 5725989027439741 246525687503688386 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|left|alt=The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.]]
[[File:312977638 5725916744113636 7646024862373953283 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|alt=Acrylic mirror example. mirrored back with cur acrylic pieces to attach on top of the mirror at the edges]]
[[File:Acrylic picture frame example 1.jpg|50:50px|thumb|none|alt=An example of an acrylic picture frame|An example of an acrylic picture frame]]

=== Living Hinges ===

File:CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay.jpg

2023-05-18T19:37:53Z

Leebc:

CNC topobathymetric carve of Tampa Bay created on THS's ShopBot

User:Leebc

2022-12-08T21:05:00Z

Leebc: /* Lasercut Frames */

== About me ==

=== What I Make ===

=== Classes I Teach ===

* None.

'''Classes I could be talked into teaching if there is enough explicit interest:'''
* "Designing laser-cuttable model buildings for D&D, railroad, and other miniatures terrain"
* "Introduction to pottery: Pinch pots, coil pots, and slab pots" (This may be 2 or 3 separate classes.
* "Designing 3d printable furniture in OpenSCAD"
* "A method for creating UV maps/textures for 3d models for use in Unity3d"
*

=== Interests ===
* MAPS!
* Laser cutting flat things and turning into 3d things
* Visualizing strange data

=== Slack Channels I post in ===

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C64QUN85R #astronomy]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CENRLHAE6 #spacetech]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C17029YC9 #sewing-and-textiles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0259RYHBDY #kilns]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CJQ9YPFJ4 #cosplay]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0419EWAEJ2 #3d-modeling]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C01MJUQS3F0 #science-articles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C6TRESTC7 #VR]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C026U6Z3E7R #random-bryan-shares]

== Some of my projects ==

== Research ==

=== Lasercut Frames ===
'''Some collected thoughts on laser-cutting picture frame'''

'''Asked in slack and on facebook:'''
* Does anyone have any thoughts on finishing laser-cut picture frames?
* I could cut multiple parts out of 1/8th" or 1/16th" material and glue together, but my real concern and question is about finishing the edges.
* MDF or acrylic would have a clean edge, and the whole thing could be painted... but what if you were using 1/8" or 1/4" plywood?
* Can you think of a material that would be better for picture frames?
* How hard is it to work with a stick-on veneer?
* What kind of paint?

'''Some suggestions include:'''
* vinyl wrap the frame
* "Cheaper material like Plywood could get cleaned up with some of the same techniques and materials as 3d printed parts, Water putty/spot putty to fill in voids and then sand able primer and you can get a very clean surface to paint to get the same finish as solid wood parts."
* Another suggestion is to laser-cut a bevel using a jig. This should work if the frame pieces are thin enough and narrow enough.
* Acrylic mirror could be really nice.
* I love stick on veneer. I laser cut it and use it with finished plywood in layers. I just make sure to laser myself a template on the bottom layer because it’s really hard to line stuff up without it. I also like the look of veneer on top of acrylic too.
* Otherwise I feel like a [beveled] edge is really a nice finish for frames if you have the tools. So I would probably do that then paint/stain, spray with the triple thick clear topcoat (sand in between coats) if I want the grain or maybe top it with a thin layer of resin if not. I’m kinda addicted to how easy and quick UV resin is but regular resin would be so quick if you had several to do.
* It's not really a frame. The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.



'''Acrylic mirror:'''
* Could make a mirror by cutting a back plate of mirrored acrylic, then acrylic cement or CA glue on some black or white strips of acrylic like this <image>. Maybe put some round or shaped holes in them so the mirror...uh... mirrors through.
* Or could paint the black & white on using masking as a template or use a thin veneer so the mirror isn’t too shadowed
* Acrylic frame with mirrored edges (black background) <other image>
[[File:313353003 5725989027439741 246525687503688386 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|left|alt=The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.]]
[[File:312977638 5725916744113636 7646024862373953283 n.jpg|50:50px|thumb|alt=Acrylic mirror example. mirrored back with cur acrylic pieces to attach on top of the mirror at the edges]]
[[File:Acrylic picture frame example 1.jpg|50:50px|thumb|none|alt=An example of an acrylic picture frame|An example of an acrylic picture frame]]

=== Living Hinges ===

File:Acrylic picture frame example 1.jpg

2022-12-08T21:00:33Z

Leebc:

An example of an actrlic picture frame

File:312977638 5725916744113636 7646024862373953283 n.jpg

2022-12-08T20:56:43Z

Leebc:

Acrylic mirror example.

File:313353003 5725989027439741 246525687503688386 n.jpg

2022-12-08T19:19:24Z

Leebc:

The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.

User:Leebc

2022-12-08T09:53:43Z

Leebc: /* Lasercut Frames */ Text dump

== About me ==

=== What I Make ===

=== Classes I Teach ===

* None.

'''Classes I could be talked into teaching if there is enough explicit interest:'''
* "Designing laser-cuttable model buildings for D&D, railroad, and other miniatures terrain"
* "Introduction to pottery: Pinch pots, coil pots, and slab pots" (This may be 2 or 3 separate classes.
* "Designing 3d printable furniture in OpenSCAD"
* "A method for creating UV maps/textures for 3d models for use in Unity3d"
*

=== Interests ===
* MAPS!
* Laser cutting flat things and turning into 3d things
* Visualizing strange data

=== Slack Channels I post in ===

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C64QUN85R #astronomy]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CENRLHAE6 #spacetech]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C17029YC9 #sewing-and-textiles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0259RYHBDY #kilns]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CJQ9YPFJ4 #cosplay]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0419EWAEJ2 #3d-modeling]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C01MJUQS3F0 #science-articles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C6TRESTC7 #VR]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C026U6Z3E7R #random-bryan-shares]

== Some of my projects ==

== Research ==

=== Lasercut Frames ===
'''Some collected thoughts on laser-cutting picture frame'''

Asked in slack and on facebook:
Does anyone have any thoughts on finishing laser-cut picture frames?
I could cut multiple parts out of 1/8th" or 1/16th" material and glue together, but my real concern and question is about finishing the edges.
MDF or acrylic would have a clean edge, and the whole thing could be painted... but what if you were using 1/8" or 1/4" plywood?
Can you think of a material that would be better for picture frames?
How hard is it to work with a stick-on veneer?
What kind of paint?

My friend don shared this with me:
>> It's not really a frame. The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.

Some suggestions from the THS-slack include:
* vinyl wrap the frame
* "Cheaper material like Plywood could get cleaned up with some of the same techniques and materials as 3d printed parts, Water putty/spot putty to fill in voids and then sand able primer and you can get a very clean surface to paint to get the same finish as solid wood parts."
Another suggestion is to laser-cut a bevel using a jig. This should work if the frame pieces are thin enough and narrow enough.

Kelli-Lynn Luckey
Acrylic mirror could be really nice.
I love stick on veneer. I laser cut it and use it with finished plywood in layers. I just make sure to laser myself a template on the bottom layer because it’s really hard to line stuff up without it. I also like the look of veneer on top of acrylic too.
Otherwise I feel like a mitered edge is really a nice finish for frames if you have the tools. So I would probably do that then paint/stain, spray with the triple thick clear topcoat (sand in between coats) if I want the grain or maybe top it with a thin layer of resin if not. I’m kinda addicted to how easy and quick UV resin is but regular resin would be so quick if you had several to do
When you're talking about making miters, are you talking meaning like in my image below or about cutting the edge itself at a 45 degree bevel like they do with mat-board in professional framing shops?

Kelli-Lynn Luckey
Mul Duran probably a bevel. I’ve seen big and small tools that finish the edge off for you and it looks so much nicer to me (vs a blunt laser cut edge on say a 1/4” plywood frame)

Acrylic mirror:
Could make a mirror by cutting a back plate of mirrored acrylic, then acrylic cement or CA glue on some black or white strips of acrylic like this. maybe put some round or shaped holes in them so the mirror...uh... mirrors through.

Kelli-Lynn Luckey
Mul Duran or could paint the black & white on using masking as a template or use a thin veneer so the mirror isn’t too shadowed

Acrylic frame with mirrored edges (black background)

=== Living Hinges ===

User:Leebc

2022-12-08T09:34:38Z

Leebc: /* Interests */

User:Leebc

2022-12-08T07:17:45Z

Leebc: /* About me */

User:Leebc

2022-12-08T07:17:14Z

Leebc: /* About me */ Added class ideas, added channels

== About me ==

=== Classes I Teach ===

* None.

'''Classes I could be talked into teaching if there is enough explicit interest:'''
* "Designing laser-cuttable model buildings for D&D, railroad, and other miniatures terrain"
* "Introduction to pottery: Pinch pots, coil pots, and slab pots" (This may be 2 or 3 separate classes.
* "Designing 3d printable furniture in OpenSCAD"
* "A method for creating UV maps/textures for 3d models for use in Unity3d"
*

=== Interests ===

=== Slack Channels I post in ===

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C64QUN85R #astronomy]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CENRLHAE6 #spacetech]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C17029YC9 #sewing-and-textiles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0259RYHBDY #kilns]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/CJQ9YPFJ4 #cosplay]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C0419EWAEJ2 #3d-modeling]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C01MJUQS3F0 #science-articles]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C6TRESTC7 #VR]

[https://app.slack.com/client/T0GNNU4GK/C026U6Z3E7R #random-bryan-shares]

== Some of my projects ==

== Research ==

=== Lasercut Frames ===

=== Living Hinges ===

User:Leebc

2022-12-08T01:53:25Z

Leebc: initial outline

== About me ==

=== Classes I Teach ===

=== Interests ===

== Some of my projects ==

== Research ==

=== Lasercut Frames ===

=== Living Hinges ===

Category:Crafting & Art

2022-12-01T05:24:29Z

Leebc: /* Craft / Art */ Added kiln firing discussion

== Craft / Art ==

HP DesignJet T1100PS [https://drive.google.com/file/d/150EW2eNZRrhoIsrkerkGLo83GtT5XpUV [User Manual]] [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xKOOLPqVlfmd6Vo6MSHKPbpffqxhwyyh [Service Manual]] - large format printer (rehabbed and working as of July 2022) - prints up to 44" wide but paper rolls we currently have are only 42" wide

[[Silhouette Portrait]] 1 Vinyl Cutter

[[Quickutz Silhouette]] Digital Craft Cutter

[[tools:Expert II LX Vinyl Cutter|Expert II LX Vinyl Cutter]]

[[Jen-Ken Kiln]]
* [[Kiln_Firing_Discussion]]

[[Paragon FireFly Kiln]]

[[Merchmakr]] screen printing system

[[Category:Interest & Project Groups]]
[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Main]]

Kiln Firing Discussion

2022-05-12T18:39:37Z

Leebc: /* Thursday, May 12, 2022 */

Discussion on kiln firing

'''This is a transcription of a discussion between leebc and his friend spoony about how she fires her kiln. It is edited for content.'''

'''Intent is to create a write-up that presents the information in a more linear format.'''

== Thursday, May 12, 2022 ==
<pre>

leebc — Today at 10:47 AM
Because someone going to ask, what was "School" for you for this?

spoony — Today at 10:50 AM
Ceramics 1&2 at spc

leebc — Today at 9:40 AM
How do you feel about "firing a kiln unattended"? How much do you "attend" your kiln? What do professionals say?

spoony — Today at 9:44 AM
I generally just make sure not to fire it if no one is going to be home in the 8 hours it’s firing

leebc — Today at 9:50 AM
hummmm... And if someone is home? Do they check it periodically? Or just listen for the fire alarm?

spoony — Today at 9:51 AM
At school someone would just come check periodically through the weekend (their firing cycles were generally like 48 hours)
Listen for the fire alarm
I do check it now and then but mostly to make sure it’s heating/cooling as needed
(Yesterday that paid off cause it turned out I forgot to set the timer to the max time allowed before shutdown, so it shut down 3/4ths through heating - which is just one of the fail-safes)

leebc — Today at 9:58 AM
What were you firing to? The slip-mold-clay Ryan is working with wants Cone6

spoony — Today at 10:02 AM
Build -> fire to 04 -> glaze -> fire to 6
Or whatever the glaze requires (4-6 for cone 6 clay)

spoony — Today at 10:07 AM
I would start with a low fire clay. Still same process but the glaze fire is 05-06 rather than 4-6
I would also check to make sure the slip cast clay is actually 6 not 06

leebc — Today at 10:08 AM
Well, he's already made several of these slip castings and wants to fire them. I'll encourage him to fire some low temp stuff first.

spoony — Today at 10:08 AM
Have him send a link to the exact clay?

leebc — Today at 10:10 AM
https://highwaterclays.com/products/cone-6-white-stoneware-casting-slip
Highwater Clays
White Stoneware Casting Slip (Cone 6)
The White Stoneware Casting Slip is a smooth pouring stoneware slip which releases easily. Excellent for utility ware. Cone 6. At Cone 6: Shrinkage 13.0%; Absorption 2.0%. IMPORTANT NOTES: This item cannot be shipped via ground shipping. It must be picked up in our retail store or shipped freight (freight quantity
White Stoneware Casting Slip (Cone 6)
OH! it's stoneware.
tbf, he can probably call them for a walkthrough....

spoony — Today at 10:17 AM
Well firing is circumstantial so whatever you asked before might not match anyway
But yeah he needs to fire his slip casts to 04
Then glaze with a glaze that fires from 4-6
NOT 04-06: 4-6
And the initial fire is 04
No glaze before then
No glaze on the bottom (if he’s dipping, he needs to wax the bottom)
And wipe off the glaze from the wax

leebc — Today at 10:20 AM
Roughly how long should an 04 firing take? How long should a 6 take?

spoony — Today at 10:20 AM
Depends on the kiln and speed. Mine does 04 at med speed in 6-8 hours
I’ve never fired to 6 - at school we loaded on Friday and unloaded Monday

leebc — Today at 10:21 AM
did they attend it all 48 hours?

spoony — Today at 10:21 AM
Nope - just people would come in over the weekend to check on it
Unless it was a soda fire (you have to manually set the flame)

leebc — Today at 10:22 AM
and that was electric? or gas/wood?
to 6

spoony — Today at 10:22 AM
Most electric, some wood and gas for soda/salt

leebc — Today at 10:23 AM
main question being: the electric ...may be able to get up to 6?

spoony — Today at 10:23 AM
Those you have to keep watch on, turn the flame up and down, and at one point open it and throw in salt
What’s the kiln? And what’s it’s sitter?

leebc — Today at 10:25 AM
https://wiki.tampahackerspace.com/Tools:_Jen-Ken_Kiln

spoony — Today at 10:26 AM
Oh good I use a similar sitter
It’s usually got pre-programmed things and should be pretty straight forward. Click button to start, takes you through a menu that you can scroll through options with the up/down arrows, last click is ‘start’
Yeah cone 6 is its max temp looks like
Typically you want your kiln to be rated to fire one cone hotter than you want
Oh though I guess technically it can get to 7 so you’re probably good

leebc — Today at 10:37 AM
ok, cool. or....hot, rather.

spoony — Today at 10:37 AM
Actually teeeechnically it can get to 9 depending on heat speed
Slow has a lower final temp than fast
And it can get just to the final temp of 9 at medium speed
You’re gunna want a peep hole plug

leebc — Today at 10:40 AM
is it missing in the photo?

spoony — Today at 10:40 AM
Yeah

leebc — Today at 10:47 AM
Because someone going to ask, what was "School" for you for this?

spoony — Today at 10:50 AM
Ceramics 1&2 at spc
The click sequence confuses me every time XD
I believe that’s just the external version of the sitter in ths kiln
<video>

leebc — Today at 10:55 AM
Does the kiln plug into that sitter and it ...does things based on the temperature it reads through the peep?

spoony — Today at 10:55 AM
Yep

It’s not quiiite as accurate as the sitter plugged directly in, but close enough for the temps I work with

leebc — Today at 1:59 PM
Please correct me if i'm wrong in how i'm writing this:
vitrify -- To change or make into glass or a glassy substance, especially through heat fusion.
In ceramics, this is when the clay fuses completely together. It doesn't leak or (mostly) absorb water.
The "Cone 6" label on the slip clay indicates that this clay vitrifies at cone 6, which is 2192° F, 1200° C.
If there is a 0 in front of the number, like 04, think of it as a negative sign. As teh numbers get larger, the temperature gets hotter. So, Cone 6 is hotter than 04. You can look up the exact values on the internet (link to full table not included here). The use of "Cone" is based on these ceramic...cones that you would stick in the kiln during the firing. When the cone melted and "wilted", you knew the kiln was at the correct temperature and you could allow it to start to cool/remove heat. Modern electric kilns use electric thermostats (in "kiln sitters) to control the firing process, some with electronics that follow a program, making the whole process dramatically easier. (see below) If you are using an old electric kiln, or a gas kiln, or a wood kiln, there is much more manual adjustment required.
The general ceramics workflow is:
Build piece; let piece dry until "leather hard" (greenware); initial firing to Cone 04 (bisk firing); allow to cool; GLAZE here; fire to temperature (in your case Cone 6) so the piece will fully vitrify (called earthenware/stoneware).
(copied from https://lakesidepottery.com/HTML%20Text/Tips/Tempruturerange.htm)
Clay types and Temperature Ranges
* Low-fire / Earthenware
Average is Cone 04 (1950° F / 1100° C)
Ranges from Cone 015 - 1 (up to 2109° F / 1154° C)
a relatively soft, porous clay body, and a clearly separate glaze layer.
Glaze colors are generally more varied and bright than stoneware.
* Mid-range
Ranges from Cone 2 - 7 (2124-2264° F / 1162-1240° C)
a relatively soft, porous clay body, and a clearly separate glaze layer.
Glaze colors are generally more varied and brighter than stoneware.
A common temperature range for industrial ceramics.
* High-fire / Stoneware
Average is Cone 10 (2381° F / 1305° C)
Cone 8 -12 range (2305-22419° F / 1263-1326° C)
a hard, vitrified, non-absorbent clay body
a body-glaze layer that forms between the clay body and glaze.
*Very High-fire / Porcelain
Cone 10 -13 range (2381-2455° F / 1305-1346° C)
a hard, vitrified, non-absorbent clay body
a body-glaze layer that forms between the clay body and glaze

The initial bisk process goes through several stages. if you were performing these in a manual electric kiln, you would control the temperature by starting with only some of your heating coils on and the lid off, then closing the lid and adding more more heat. Not necessarily in that order. This initial slow process allows water to convert to steam and escape, initial expansion, air to escape (maybe), carbon based materials to burn off, and then clay particles to begin to vitrify.
If you heat up to fast, or cool to fast, your ceramics have a high chance of exploding. (You also need to avoid trapped air bubbles for this reason)
See table linked here and read up from the bottom to get a better understanding of the firing process. https://lakesidepottery.com/HTML%20Text/Tips/Tempruturerange.htm
Ceramic, Pottery, Sculpture and Kintsugi Repair | China repair and ...
Image
Kiln Temperature Ranges
Transformation of Ceramic Materials by Heat

spoony — Today at 2:03 PM
Okay so to make sure you add in: if you want to glaze it, the glaze goes on before the cone 6 fire
But after the bisque
You can’t really glaze it once vitrified

leebc — Today at 2:06 PM
Really? I thought I'd been told you could. Maybe with certain high-fire glazes?

spoony — Today at 2:07 PM
Depends on the clay, the glaze, etc
You can do an overglaze fire too, but that’s a third very very low fire

leebc — Today at 2:08 PM
maybe that's what i'm thinking

spoony — Today at 2:08 PM
General rule is once it’s fired to its top temp, don’t rely on being able to add glaze
If it’s like a cone 10 clay sometimes you can glaze fire to like six then add a higher fire glaze
And sometimes you can add glazes to do a separate type of firing to get different effects

leebc — Today at 2:10 PM
could you high fire, then do a rakoo fire?

spoony — Today at 2:10 PM
I think it’s done sometimes but not sure
I’d be afraid of thermal shock exploding the piece

leebc — Today at 2:10 PM
stonewear?

spoony — Today at 2:10 PM
Cause there are clays specific for raku and they’re all low fire
Yeah stoneware is essentially glass

leebc — Today at 2:12 PM
AH. Humm... When I took "Experimental firing techniques" in ...90....+6, I think we used the same clay body for Raku and the high er soda/salt fires we did.
OH....glass...yeah...
Then there's the wet fire body we made by adding a ton of silica sand. That did NOT vitrify well.

spoony — Today at 2:14 PM
Yeah raku is designed for thermal shock which soda/salt fires definitely have XD
Salt fires are like high fire raku where you leave the piece in rather than pull out, iirc

leebc — Today at 2:16 PM
get it hot, throw shit on the clay?

spoony — Today at 2:16 PM
And keep it hot yeah

spoony — Today at 2:17 PM
Rather than throw it in a can to cool down naturally like with actual raku

</pre>

[[Category:Kilns]]
[[Category:Ceramics]]

Kiln Firing Discussion

2022-05-12T18:23:45Z

Leebc: Added further discussion

Discussion on kiln firing

'''This is a transcription of a discussion between leebc and his friend spoony about how she fires her kiln. It is edited for content.'''

'''Intent is to create a write-up that presents the information in a more linear format.'''

== Thursday, May 12, 2022 ==
<pre>

leebc — Today at 10:47 AM
Because someone going to ask, what was "School" for you for this?

spoony — Today at 10:50 AM
Ceramics 1&2 at spc

leebc — Today at 9:40 AM
How do you feel about "firing a kiln unattended"? How much do you "attend" your kiln? What do professionals say?

spoony — Today at 9:44 AM
I generally just make sure not to fire it if no one is going to be home in the 8 hours it’s firing

leebc — Today at 9:50 AM
hummmm... And if someone is home? Do they check it periodically? Or just listen for the fire alarm?

spoony — Today at 9:51 AM
At school someone would just come check periodically through the weekend (their firing cycles were generally like 48 hours)
Listen for the fire alarm
I do check it now and then but mostly to make sure it’s heating/cooling as needed
(Yesterday that paid off cause it turned out I forgot to set the timer to the max time allowed before shutdown, so it shut down 3/4ths through heating - which is just one of the fail-safes)

leebc — Today at 9:58 AM
What were you firing to? The slip-mold-clay Ryan is working with wants Cone6

spoony — Today at 10:02 AM
Build -> fire to 04 -> glaze -> fire to 6
Or whatever the glaze requires (4-6 for cone 6 clay)

spoony — Today at 10:07 AM
I would start with a low fire clay. Still same process but the glaze fire is 05-06 rather than 4-6
I would also check to make sure the slip cast clay is actually 6 not 06

leebc — Today at 10:08 AM
Well, he's already made several of these slip castings and wants to fire them. I'll encourage him to fire some low temp stuff first.

spoony — Today at 10:08 AM
Have him send a link to the exact clay?

leebc — Today at 10:10 AM
https://highwaterclays.com/products/cone-6-white-stoneware-casting-slip
Highwater Clays
White Stoneware Casting Slip (Cone 6)
The White Stoneware Casting Slip is a smooth pouring stoneware slip which releases easily. Excellent for utility ware. Cone 6. At Cone 6: Shrinkage 13.0%; Absorption 2.0%. IMPORTANT NOTES: This item cannot be shipped via ground shipping. It must be picked up in our retail store or shipped freight (freight quantity
White Stoneware Casting Slip (Cone 6)
OH! it's stoneware.
tbf, he can probably call them for a walkthrough....

spoony — Today at 10:17 AM
Well firing is circumstantial so whatever you asked before might not match anyway
But yeah he needs to fire his slip casts to 04
Then glaze with a glaze that fires from 4-6
NOT 04-06: 4-6
And the initial fire is 04
No glaze before then
No glaze on the bottom (if he’s dipping, he needs to wax the bottom)
And wipe off the glaze from the wax

leebc — Today at 10:20 AM
Roughly how long should an 04 firing take? How long should a 6 take?

spoony — Today at 10:20 AM
Depends on the kiln and speed. Mine does 04 at med speed in 6-8 hours
I’ve never fired to 6 - at school we loaded on Friday and unloaded Monday

leebc — Today at 10:21 AM
did they attend it all 48 hours?

spoony — Today at 10:21 AM
Nope - just people would come in over the weekend to check on it
Unless it was a soda fire (you have to manually set the flame)

leebc — Today at 10:22 AM
and that was electric? or gas/wood?
to 6

spoony — Today at 10:22 AM
Most electric, some wood and gas for soda/salt

leebc — Today at 10:23 AM
main question being: the electric ...may be able to get up to 6?

spoony — Today at 10:23 AM
Those you have to keep watch on, turn the flame up and down, and at one point open it and throw in salt
What’s the kiln? And what’s it’s sitter?

leebc — Today at 10:25 AM
https://wiki.tampahackerspace.com/Tools:_Jen-Ken_Kiln

spoony — Today at 10:26 AM
Oh good I use a similar sitter
It’s usually got pre-programmed things and should be pretty straight forward. Click button to start, takes you through a menu that you can scroll through options with the up/down arrows, last click is ‘start’
Yeah cone 6 is its max temp looks like
Typically you want your kiln to be rated to fire one cone hotter than you want
Oh though I guess technically it can get to 7 so you’re probably good

leebc — Today at 10:37 AM
ok, cool. or....hot, rather.

spoony — Today at 10:37 AM
Actually teeeechnically it can get to 9 depending on heat speed
Slow has a lower final temp than fast
And it can get just to the final temp of 9 at medium speed
You’re gunna want a peep hole plug

leebc — Today at 10:40 AM
is it missing in the photo?

spoony — Today at 10:40 AM
Yeah

leebc — Today at 10:47 AM
Because someone going to ask, what was "School" for you for this?

spoony — Today at 10:50 AM
Ceramics 1&2 at spc
The click sequence confuses me every time XD
I believe that’s just the external version of the sitter in ths kiln
<video>

leebc — Today at 10:55 AM
Does the kiln plug into that sitter and it ...does things based on the temperature it reads through the peep?

spoony — Today at 10:55 AM
Yep

It’s not quiiite as accurate as the sitter plugged directly in, but close enough for the temps I work with

leebc — Today at 1:59 PM
Please correct me if i'm wrong in how i'm writing this:
vitrify -- To change or make into glass or a glassy substance, especially through heat fusion.
In ceramics, this is when the clay fuses completely together. It doesn't leak or (mostly) absorb water.
The "Cone 6" label on the slip clay indicates that this clay vitrifies at cone 6, which is 2192° F, 1200° C.
If there is a 0 in front of the number, like 04, think of it as a negative sign. As teh numbers get larger, the temperature gets hotter. So, Cone 6 is hotter than 04. You can look up the exact values on the internet (link to full table not included here). The use of "Cone" is based on these ceramic...cones that you would stick in the kiln during the firing. When the cone melted and "wilted", you knew the kiln was at the correct temperature and you could allow it to start to cool/remove heat. Modern electric kilns use electric thermostats (in "kiln sitters) to control the firing process, some with electronics that follow a program, making the whole process dramatically easier. (see below) If you are using an old electric kiln, or a gas kiln, or a wood kiln, there is much more manual adjustment required.
The general ceramics workflow is:
Build piece; let piece dry until "leather hard" (greenware); initial firing to Cone 04 (bisk firing); allow to cool; GLAZE here; fire to temperature (in your case Cone 6) so the piece will fully vitrify (called BLAHGABLURG).
(copied from https://lakesidepottery.com/HTML%20Text/Tips/Tempruturerange.htm)
Clay types and Temperature Ranges
* Low-fire / Earthenware
Average is Cone 04 (1950° F / 1100° C)
Ranges from Cone 015 - 1 (up to 2109° F / 1154° C)
a relatively soft, porous clay body, and a clearly separate glaze layer.
Glaze colors are generally more varied and bright than stoneware.
* Mid-range
Ranges from Cone 2 - 7 (2124-2264° F / 1162-1240° C)
a relatively soft, porous clay body, and a clearly separate glaze layer.
Glaze colors are generally more varied and brighter than stoneware.
A common temperature range for industrial ceramics.
* High-fire / Stoneware
Average is Cone 10 (2381° F / 1305° C)
Cone 8 -12 range (2305-22419° F / 1263-1326° C)
a hard, vitrified, non-absorbent clay body
a body-glaze layer that forms between the clay body and glaze.
*Very High-fire / Porcelain
Cone 10 -13 range (2381-2455° F / 1305-1346° C)
a hard, vitrified, non-absorbent clay body
a body-glaze layer that forms between the clay body and glaze

The initial bisk process goes through several stages. if you were performing these in a manual electric kiln, you would control the temperature by starting with only some of your heating coils on and the lid off, then closing the lid and adding more more heat. Not necessarily in that order. This initial slow process allows water to convert to steam and escape, initial expansion, air to escape (maybe), carbon based materials to burn off, and then clay particles to begin to vitrify.
If you heat up to fast, or cool to fast, your ceramics have a high chance of exploding. (You also need to avoid trapped air bubbles for this reason)
See table linked here and read up from the bottom to get a better understanding of the firing process. https://lakesidepottery.com/HTML%20Text/Tips/Tempruturerange.htm
Ceramic, Pottery, Sculpture and Kintsugi Repair | China repair and ...
Image
Kiln Temperature Ranges
Transformation of Ceramic Materials by Heat

spoony — Today at 2:03 PM
Okay so to make sure you add in: if you want to glaze it, the glaze goes on before the cone 6 fire
But after the bisque
You can’t really glaze it once vitrified

leebc — Today at 2:06 PM
Really? I thought I'd been told you could. Maybe with certain high-fire glazes?

spoony — Today at 2:07 PM
Depends on the clay, the glaze, etc
You can do an overglaze fire too, but that’s a third very very low fire

leebc — Today at 2:08 PM
maybe that's what i'm thinking

spoony — Today at 2:08 PM
General rule is once it’s fired to its top temp, don’t rely on being able to add glaze
If it’s like a cone 10 clay sometimes you can glaze fire to like six then add a higher fire glaze
And sometimes you can add glazes to do a separate type of firing to get different effects

leebc — Today at 2:10 PM
could you high fire, then do a rakoo fire?

spoony — Today at 2:10 PM
I think it’s done sometimes but not sure
I’d be afraid of thermal shock exploding the piece

leebc — Today at 2:10 PM
stonewear?

spoony — Today at 2:10 PM
Cause there are clays specific for raku and they’re all low fire
Yeah stoneware is essentially glass

leebc — Today at 2:12 PM
AH. Humm... When I took "Experimental firing techniques" in ...90....+6, I think we used the same clay body for Raku and the high er soda/salt fires we did.
OH....glass...yeah...
Then there's the wet fire body we made by adding a ton of silica sand. That did NOT vitrify well.

spoony — Today at 2:14 PM
Yeah raku is designed for thermal shock which soda/salt fires definitely have XD
Salt fires are like high fire raku where you leave the piece in rather than pull out, iirc

leebc — Today at 2:16 PM
get it hot, throw shit on the clay?

spoony — Today at 2:16 PM
And keep it hot yeah

spoony — Today at 2:17 PM
Rather than throw it in a can to cool down naturally like with actual raku

</pre>

[[Category:Kilns]]
[[Category:Ceramics]]

Kiln Firing Discussion

2022-05-12T17:19:24Z

Leebc:

Kiln Firing Discussion

2022-05-12T17:18:18Z

Leebc: Created page with copy-pasted transcription of conversation

Tools: Universal M360 Laser Cutter

2022-03-27T22:14:24Z

Leebc: /* Where to buy wood */

[[File:M300_big_edited_edited-1.jpg|right|300px]]

The Universal M360 is a flexible tool for precise cutting and etching of flat materials like acrylic plastic and thin wood.

Use of the laser cutter requires the certification class.

'''If you are unsure about any aspect of laser cutter operation, cleaning, or maintenance, please ask for help in the [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''

[[#Where_to_buy_acrylic]]

Last revision {{REVISIONTIMESTAMP}} by {{REVISIONUSER}}


== Tool Description ==
Universal Laser Cutter Model M360-60
* 60 Watt CO2 laser.
* 24” x 12” (609.6 x 304.8mm) cut bed.
* Flat Cutting Table or removable Honeycomb Cutting Table.
* High speed ventilation system for evacuation of fumes and particulates during cutting.
* CorelDraw
* Uses custom Windows print driver to specify laser intensities.
* Raster and Vector modes.
* 16 MB standard memory buffer.

== Safety ==

Do not operate the laser cutter without taking the class. Do not allow others to use the laser cutter unsupervised without ensuring that they have taken the class.

'''Always''' wear safety glasses while watching the laser cutter operate. These are the laser-specific dark safety glasses near the laser cutter. Clear or dark-tinted safety glasses, sunglasses, etc. are not adequate protection. The laser used for cutting / etching is not visible to the human eye but can cause significant damage to the eye.

'''Always''' use the ventilation fan. This is turned on via a power strip on the table. Leave the ventilation fan running for some time after completing your work to draw smoke and other gases out of the space. Please turn off the ventilation fan when not in use to keep air conditioning costs down. Notify us immediately if the ventilation fan seems weaker than usual.

'''Always''' supervise the laser cutter while in operation. The risk of fire varies by material but is always there.

Be considerate of others using the space. If possible, ''please'' refrain from operating the laser cutter during or immediately before a class or other Meetup due to noise and smell.

'''Note:''' The person operating the laser cutter is responsible for ensuring the safety of others in the area. Visitors, guests, and even other members may not know proper safety procedures. Ensure that they do not watch the laser operate without safety glasses.

Be aware of the nearest fire extinguishers:

* One just to the right of the laser-cutter
* One just inside kitchen
* One by front door

== Materials (what to use, and not use, it on) ==

There are a wide variety of materials that are safe to cut and etch.

=== '''Unsafe''' Materials to Cut or Etch ===

'''Never''' cut or etch these materials. Most of these will produce toxic gases when heated.

Note that many manufactured items that seem like good candidates for etching are made of PVC.

Note that it can be quite difficult to tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic plastics. If nothing else, a small test etch or cut will help determine which plastic the item is made from.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#NEVER_CUT_THESE_MATERIALS ATX HackerSpace].

* PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
* Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
* ABS
* HDPE/milk bottle plastic
* PolyStyrene Foam
* PolyPropylene Foam
* Fiberglass
* Coated Carbon Fiber
* Teflon (PTFE)

=== Safe Materials to Cut ===

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Cutting ATX HackerSpace].

* Many woods (successfully used at THS)
* Plywood/Composite woods (successfully used at THS)
* MDF/Engineered woods
* Paper, card stock (successfully used at THS)
* Marshmallows (successfully used at THS)
* Cardboard, carton (Thick cardboard will burn - the pockets are protected from the exhaust fan and air assist and will sustain a flame) (successfully used at THS)
* Cork
* Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA (acrylic successfully used at THS)
* Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
* Delrin (POM)
* Kapton tape (Polyimide)
* Mylar
* Solid Styrene
* Depron foam
* Gator foam
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton
* Leather/Suede (successfully used at THS)
* Magnetic Sheet
* NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber
* Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not had epoxy applied
* Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
* Chocolate (successfully used at THS)

=== Safe Materials to Etch ===

Some materials can't be cut, but can be lightly etched.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Etching From ATX HackerSpace].

* Most of the above "cut-safe" materials
* Glass
* Ceramic tile
* Anodized aluminum (Read special instructions for this material)
* Painted/coated metals (Read special instructions for this material)
* Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx. (Read special instructions for this material) (successfully used at THS)

=== Selecting Materials ===

* [http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/ Identifying unknown plastics (link)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Extruded vs. Cast Acrylic]

* Materials thicker than about 1/4 inch (6mm) may not cut cleanly through due to how/where the laser beam point focuses

=== Materials Available at the Space ===

We do not currently resell materials for use with the laser cutter.

We keep a steady supply of scrap 1/4 inch plywood and acrylic sheet at the space for free use. Please donate any useful scraps and dispose of pieces that are too small to be used.

There are a number of donated pieces of other plastics, some tiles, etc. kept near the laser cutter for free use. Be aware that some of this plastic may be polycarbonate or other materials.

We have a good amount of donated matte board (scraps from framing art) that cuts well. It is kept in a lateral file below the office supplies.

=== Where to buy acrylic ===
* [http://www.farcoplastics.com/ Farco Plastics Supply] (in Clearwater) Recommended by a few of our members.
* [http://www.plasticsamerica.com/ Plastics America] (out towards Brandon.) "They price by the square foot and charge a single cut fee per order so you benefit from buying in quantity. Buying one or two pieces from them can get expensive. I think I recall the cut fee being $12ish." -- Bill
* [http://www.delviesplastics.com/ Delvie's Plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.estreetplastics.com/ e street plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.ceruleantides.com/ Cerulean Tides] (Ft. Lauderdale) "Ships same day via UPS", is usually at my door the next day."

=== Where to buy wood ===
See: [https://wiki.tampahackerspace.com/Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood '''Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood''']

== Tool Use ==

* Videos: We have videos uploaded instructing on [https://youtu.be/hCUCX2dZWiU](removing/installing air assist cone) and [https://youtu.be/WrXSZ3RTzKs](setting the z-height)
* '''Check lens. If you have been trained in lens cleaning, Clean only if necessary (see '''Maintenance''' section below for procedures)'''
* Create a new document in CorelDraw that is 24"Wx12"H
* Load SVG or create design. Use only the 8 supported colors.
* "Print" design
** Before clicking "OK" to print, go to "Preferences" and set appropriate values for each color.
** Review information from the class on how to do this.
** Review Laser Cutter documentation and log book for what settings to use.
* Turn on the exhaust fan.
* Power on Laser Cutter.
* If air assist nozzle is installed, turn on its air
* Put masking on your material to reduce scorching. (We have a large roll of self-adhesive masking in the Laser Cutter work area.)
* Place material on the cut bed.
* Set the Z-axis height and return the focus alignment tool to it's storage location.
* Close all Laser Cutter doors.
* Press "Next ==>" on the laser cutter control panel to use the most recently printed file.
* Double check your work.
* Press "Start".
* '''Never leave the Laser Cutter unattended!'''
* When done, turn off exhaust fan, and air assist (if applicable)
* ''Write a short entry about your print job in the Log Book about who, when, what you cut, what settings you used, and the cut duration.''

== Software ==

=== Corel Draw ===
[https://www.coreldraw.com Corel Draw] X7 is provided on the Laser Engraver workstation. It is used for job layout, as well as building vector (and other) images for cutting.

=== Inkscape ===

[https://inkscape.org/en/ Inkscape] is a free Open Source vector graphics editor that you can use to get used to the overall concept of vector based graphics design. However, be aware that there are certain issues you must face when transferring your design to the laser printer.

Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw using SVG format, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%. PDF and certain other formats do not suffer from this problem and are the preferred method of import.

''Note: As of Inkscape 0.92 the default resolution has been changed to 96dpi to match the CSS standard and now matches that of CorelDraw. The information on scaling may be needed only if using an older version of Inkscape.''

See [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Using_Inkscape_with_the_Laser_Cutter this guide] by the ATX Hackerspace for help.

=== Adobe Illustrator ===
Illustrator could be used, but specifics haven't been documented here.

=== Other ===
There are others, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_vector_graphics_editors

== Tips and Tricks ==

Since the terms are used repeatedly used in this document, here's [http://vector-conversions.com/vectorizing/raster_vs_vector.html the difference] between [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics Raster] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics Vector] images.

=== Design tips from the first class ===
* Set your page size to 24"W x 12"H.
* Placing your image at the top left corner cuts it from the top left corner.
* Keep a 1/8" margin in case the laser (or bed, or material) is slightly out of alignment.
* Vector cuts should use line widths of 0.001" or hairline. Anything wider than 0.005" will be rasterized and not cut the way you expect. You can draw with wider lines and reset them before printing in CorelDraw using "Select All" then "Object" --> "Fill And Stroke" to reset all lines to 0.001".
* Draw your "cut" lines in red, and "etch" lines in blue or green. Anything you want to rasterize should be in monochrome/greyscale. (Advanced users can use more colors for more things...but if you know enough to do this, then you don't need to be told how.)
* Lines with colors not set to 255 for any RGB value or less than 100% opacity will be treated as black and rasterized or worse, ignored, by the print driver.[SIC] Don't use color models other than RGB.
* '''Problem''': I created an SVG in Inkscape but when I import it into CorelDraw it's the wrong size. --- Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%

=== Other tips members have learned ===

* CorelDraw lets you do math inside the size entry fields. For example, if you have a Width that is 4.228 in, you can append to that "+1.25" and CorelDraw will change the value to 5.478 in. Furthermore, you can enter values in either "standard" or metric units and CorelDraw will recalculate the value in the document's default units. For example: if the document is set to inches and you entered "65mm" CorelDraw will do the calculation and set the value to 2.5590 inches.

* If you realize you forgot to turn on the vent, you should quickly turn on the vent! But it's better to not forget to turn it on in the first place.

* It may be helpful to use the restroom/get a drink/stretch/etc before starting a particular long (complex) job. DO NOT leave laser cutter unattended while cutting or etching.

* You can use scrap material (pieces that have already been cut) to test out a design, or for a finished piece if it is the right size. There is a bin of "scrap material" kept near the laser cutter.

* Etching a large section of thin acrylic will cause warping.

* If you are etching an oddly shaped and curved surface (for example a pumpkin), try setting the Z-height to the "median" (middle) height you are etching.

* Refer to the following table for spot sizes (the width of the cut, or "kerf") and focal ranges of the lenses available. (Note: The Tampa Hackerspace only has the 2.0 lens, the others are presented for completeness.)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| FOCAL LENGTH
| SPOT SIZE
| FOCAL RANGE
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 1.5 “
| .003 “
| + / - .075 “
|-
| 2.0 “
| .005 “
| + / - .100 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 2.5 “
| .007 “
| + / - .125 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 4.0 “
| .013 “
| + / - .200 “
|}

* You can use the "pointer" mode to "proof" a design. If the any of the doors are open, the red light on the control panel will flash. If you press "Start" to run your job in this state, the job will begin and will trace out the entire design, HOWEVER, the standard invisible CO2 laser will be replaced with a red pointer dot (laser diode). This will let you test your layout and will calculate the job time. Be careful though, the red dot will be close, but not exactly where the laser will cut.

* You can use the X-Y mode to find positions on the print bed. Press the "X-Y" button and use the arrow pad to move the red pointer. The LCD displays the current x,y coordinates under the pointer. These coordinates can be used to position a work piece, and the values entered into CorelDraw. Use the up-down arrows and "Select" to choose "Re-home pointer" when finished. (Check the manual, linked below, for a more through explanation.)

* After the first time a job is run (including "pointer" test run mentioned above), during subsequent runs of the same job the control panel timer will change from a "count-up" timer to a "count-down" timer, telling you how much time remains on your job.

* You can press the "Pause" button on the control panel to pause your job. The laser cutter will finish the current line, then return the head to home. If it's in the middle of a raster, this will happen almost immediately, BUT if it's in the middle of a long cut line, the line will finish first. This may take several seconds. Your job can be resumed where it left off by pressing the "Resume" button. There may be a slight offset when resuming a job, especially if the system was in the middle of a raster. "Wait for the motion system to stop and move to the home position before opening any door otherwise the laser beam will not resume from the position it stopped at."

=== Photo-quality raster images ===
'''Photo-quality raster images can be etched''' on material at high DPI(dots-per-inch)/PPI(pulses-per-inch). For example at 500 PPI on Acrylic.
* Open your image in [http://www.gimp.org/ The GIMP] or another program capable of editing photos. (CorelDraw doesn't support all the features we need.)
In GIMP:
* Click on "Image" --> "Mode" --> "Grayscale" to convert color to greyscale.
* Click on "Image" --> "Print Size" and set the X and Y Resolutions to the desired value (500 pixels/in).
* If you want to invert the grays (change black to white and white to black), click on "Colors" --> "Invert". The black portions are what will be etched. I recommend etching less instead of more; etching a large section of acrylic black will cause warping.
* If you need to adjust the gray levels, you can tweak the values using:
** "Colors" --> "Levels" OR
** "Colors" --> "Curves", You'll have to play around with these settings.
* Save your image with a new name and as a JPG or PNG.

=== Cleaning Acrylic Cuts ===

* Do not clean laser-cut acrylic with alcohol. "There is residual stress in a laser cut edge. The solvent breaks bonds and lets the plastic release the stress by cracking."--Wesley Faler.
** -- [https://web.archive.org/web/20170226013751/http://www.stewartsigns.com/support/answers/1182 Stewart Signs: How to clean polycarbonate (should apply to acrylic)] -- Internet archive link
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU9Ty0L0g7E What happens when you put alcohol on acrylic (short video)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Ammonia / Windex is also not recommended for cleaning]

* For masking paper adhesive residue, some (untested) suggestions are Goo Gone, WD-40, mineral oil, naptha, or even cooking oil

=== [[Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver]] ===

== Common Problems ==

=== My job didn't cut ===
'''Problem''': My design is in CorelDraw but all or a portion didn't cut.
Some causes of this include:
* The line thickness was not set to "hairline" or 0.001" inches and was ignored. (This color set to only "Vector" cut.)
* The line color is not one of the basic colors supported and was ignored.
* Driver setting for this chosen color set to "Skip".
* Driver set incorrectly to "Raster" or incorrectly to "Vector".
* Driver power level set to 0.
* Design is outside the 24" by 12" cut area.
* Design has transparency. This may manifest as vector lines rastering instead. Select the offending lines and set to "No Transparency" in the Object Properties.

=== My cut or etch isn't deep enough ===
'''Problem''': My cut or etch isn't deep enough.

Without moving anything or changing any settings, you can press "Start" again and the exact same job will be run a second time, cutting in the exact same places if the work piece hasn't been moved. If your material is too thick, the laser may not be focused correctly to cut all the way through. You might be able to fix this by adjusting the Z-axis slightly lower.

== Maintenance ==

'''Refer maintenance to qualified personnel. If no qualified personal are on-site, post in [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0H6JEBK6 #broken] and/or [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''

'''Lens'''
See [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/team/leebc Bryan Lee] for training on lens cleaning procedure. Otherwise, follow [https://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=YiN3J2WShQY this procedure].

''Maintenance Schedule and Summary'' (From the manual)

Since the maintenance requirements of the laser system is dependent on the type of material being run, the quantity of material being removed, the hours of operation, and the quality of the exhaust blower, it must be user defined. As a starting point, we recommend the following schedule:
* '''As necessary'''
** ''Engraving table'' -- soap solution, or alcohol or acetone, and paper towels.
** ''Main enclosure'' -- vacuum loose debris. Use soft cloth or paper towels and the soap solution to clean the enclosure.
** ''Top door window'' -- cotton cloth and the soap solution. The top window is made out of acrylic. DO NOT use paper towels because they will scratch the acrylic. Also, DO NOT use window cleaner, alcohol, or acetone, as these chemicals will crack the acrylic. Only use cleaners compatible with acrylic.
* '''Every 8 hours of engraving''' -- Turn off and unplug the laser system.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis rails and bearing tracks'' -- cotton swabs or paper towels, and alcohol or soap solution.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis bearings'' -- After the rails and tracks are cleaned, use a clean swab or paper towel, and alcohol to clean all of the bearings by holding the swab against each bearing and moving the motion system by hand to roll the bearings against the swab. There are seven bearings in the system, three (3) on the focus carriage, two (2) on the left side of the X-rail, and two (2) on the right side of the X-rail.
** ''Clean X-axis belt''.
** ''Check beam window, #2 mirror, #3 mirror, and focus lens for debris''. Clean ONLY if dirty. Do not clean immediately after use, optics will be hot. -- Refer this step to trained personal.

* '''Every month'''
** ''Clean cooling fan filters'' -- Wash the element in a soap and water solution, dry, and re-install. If scheduling prevents filters from being washed and dried, use a dust buster to carefully vacuum dust off the filters. Be certain to replace them with the same side out that they were removed.
** ''Clean and re-lubricate Z-axis lead screws'' -- The only lubrication that may be required [on the entire laser system] is the screw threads for the table lifting mechanism. After some time, contaminants can adhere to the lubricant, which can cause the engraving table to bind up or sound squeaky. If this is the case, wipe off the contaminated grease with a soft cloth dampened with alcohol and apply fresh white lithium grease to the screw threads. NEVER SPRAY ANY DEGREASING SOLUTIONS DIRECTLY ONTO THE THREADS. Run the table up and down to work in the fresh grease. Repeat if necessary.
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis belt wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Check and/or clean X-axis and Y-axis drive gears''
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis bearing wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Inspect system for loose screws and mechanical parts'' – tighten if necessary

* '''Every 6 months'''
** ''Exhaust plenum'' -- Remove it from the system. Using your soap and water solution, clean the inside of plenum as well as the inside rear wall of the Laser System.
** ''Blower fan'' -- Check blower fan screen for loose cut material (cardboard) that may have been sucked through the exhaust system and be restricting air flow.
** ''"Bucket" Filter Cleaning'' -- Cleaning is simply a matter of stabilizing the buckets so they don't twist, unscrew the top bucket's lid, remove the filter material, take it outside and clean, dry it, refold it (air must pass through 4 layers), reinsert it. The screen on the exhaust side can be removed, and cleaned. Soaking and/or brushing may be necessary. The other screen can not be removed. When done, and screw the top on.
:::- The purpose of the exhaust filter is to reduce material passing through the exhaust blower "in the attic". The blowers were getting gunked up and needed to be exchanged every 6 months or so. We attempted to use a cyclonic system last year, but it did not allow enough airflow.
:::- The current setup draws air from the enclosure, through a 4 inch flexible metal duct and into the bottom bucket. When air enters the bottom bucket, the volume expands, slowing the airflow (but not the total volume, cubic feet/minute). The flow impacts a baffle and some particles should stop moving and ultimately fall. The airflow changes direction several times, which should stop more particulates. The air enters the upper bucket and passes through the filter material, catching even more particulates. There's a perforated metal panel the air goes through, then up the stack into the blower, then up another stack out the vent in the roof.
:::- Flow problems can happen if the hoses get kinked or excessively dirty inside.

== Related Links ==

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2Z051TVVwaldaUGM&authuser=0 Safety Warnings]

* [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX HackerSpace's list of Laser Cutter Materials]

* [https://festi.info/boxes.py/ Boxes.py] Generate SVGs for boxes. Includes boxes with FLEXIBLE, curved sides. Many output formats are available, use svg or pdf, and avoid dxf as it seems to add unnecessary vectors.

* [http://boxmaker.connectionlab.org/ Box Maker]

* [http://www.makercase.com/ MakerCase]

* [https://www.remove.bg/ Remove Image Background]

* [https://polygonia.design/ Rapidly Create Symmetrical Designs for Manufacturing]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DYNPk58hrpItedoqooGeMAFEw2Fem7AQ Universal Laser M360 Manual]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ioIpMk8M7658dY5rWBMrSJOM7g9V62d0 Cleaning tips from Epilog Laser]

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2MGExMF9OSnppZWc&authuser=0 Orientation Slide Deck]

* [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam Universal Laser's writeup on EVA foam]

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html Cardstock and Corrugated Boxes]

* [http://www.templatemaker.nl/ Free custom paper templates]

* [http://image.online-convert.com/ Online Image Converter]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/ Engraving Systems Support, whom THS bought our laser cutter from]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/equipment-support/universal-laser-systems-support/ ESS Support, search for M360]

* [http://parts.engravingsys.com/MVX-Laser-Parts Replacement Parts and Accessories]

* [https://github.com/vanillabox/OpenSCADBoxes OpenSCAD generated flex/living-hinge boxes]

[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Fabrication]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

Tools: Universal M360 Laser Cutter

2022-03-27T22:08:38Z

Leebc: /* Materials (what to use, and not use, it on) */ Added link to Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood

[[File:M300_big_edited_edited-1.jpg|right|300px]]

The Universal M360 is a flexible tool for precise cutting and etching of flat materials like acrylic plastic and thin wood.

Use of the laser cutter requires the certification class.

'''If you are unsure about any aspect of laser cutter operation, cleaning, or maintenance, please ask for help in the [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''

[[#Where_to_buy_acrylic]]

Last revision {{REVISIONTIMESTAMP}} by {{REVISIONUSER}}


== Tool Description ==
Universal Laser Cutter Model M360-60
* 60 Watt CO2 laser.
* 24” x 12” (609.6 x 304.8mm) cut bed.
* Flat Cutting Table or removable Honeycomb Cutting Table.
* High speed ventilation system for evacuation of fumes and particulates during cutting.
* CorelDraw
* Uses custom Windows print driver to specify laser intensities.
* Raster and Vector modes.
* 16 MB standard memory buffer.

== Safety ==

Do not operate the laser cutter without taking the class. Do not allow others to use the laser cutter unsupervised without ensuring that they have taken the class.

'''Always''' wear safety glasses while watching the laser cutter operate. These are the laser-specific dark safety glasses near the laser cutter. Clear or dark-tinted safety glasses, sunglasses, etc. are not adequate protection. The laser used for cutting / etching is not visible to the human eye but can cause significant damage to the eye.

'''Always''' use the ventilation fan. This is turned on via a power strip on the table. Leave the ventilation fan running for some time after completing your work to draw smoke and other gases out of the space. Please turn off the ventilation fan when not in use to keep air conditioning costs down. Notify us immediately if the ventilation fan seems weaker than usual.

'''Always''' supervise the laser cutter while in operation. The risk of fire varies by material but is always there.

Be considerate of others using the space. If possible, ''please'' refrain from operating the laser cutter during or immediately before a class or other Meetup due to noise and smell.

'''Note:''' The person operating the laser cutter is responsible for ensuring the safety of others in the area. Visitors, guests, and even other members may not know proper safety procedures. Ensure that they do not watch the laser operate without safety glasses.

Be aware of the nearest fire extinguishers:

* One just to the right of the laser-cutter
* One just inside kitchen
* One by front door

== Materials (what to use, and not use, it on) ==

There are a wide variety of materials that are safe to cut and etch.

=== '''Unsafe''' Materials to Cut or Etch ===

'''Never''' cut or etch these materials. Most of these will produce toxic gases when heated.

Note that many manufactured items that seem like good candidates for etching are made of PVC.

Note that it can be quite difficult to tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic plastics. If nothing else, a small test etch or cut will help determine which plastic the item is made from.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#NEVER_CUT_THESE_MATERIALS ATX HackerSpace].

* PVC (Poly Vinyl Chloride)/vinyl/pleather/artificial leather
* Thick ( >1mm ) Polycarbonate/Lexan
* ABS
* HDPE/milk bottle plastic
* PolyStyrene Foam
* PolyPropylene Foam
* Fiberglass
* Coated Carbon Fiber
* Teflon (PTFE)

=== Safe Materials to Cut ===

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Cutting ATX HackerSpace].

* Many woods (successfully used at THS)
* Plywood/Composite woods (successfully used at THS)
* MDF/Engineered woods
* Paper, card stock (successfully used at THS)
* Marshmallows (successfully used at THS)
* Cardboard, carton (Thick cardboard will burn - the pockets are protected from the exhaust fan and air assist and will sustain a flame) (successfully used at THS)
* Cork
* Acrylic/Lucite/Plexiglas/PMMA (acrylic successfully used at THS)
* Thin Polycarbonate Sheeting (<1mm)
* Delrin (POM)
* Kapton tape (Polyimide)
* Mylar
* Solid Styrene
* Depron foam
* Gator foam
* Cloth/felt/hemp/cotton
* Leather/Suede (successfully used at THS)
* Magnetic Sheet
* NON-CHLORINE-containing rubber
* Carbon fiber mats/weave that has not had epoxy applied
* Coroplast ('corrugated plastic')
* Chocolate (successfully used at THS)

=== Safe Materials to Etch ===

Some materials can't be cut, but can be lightly etched.

Based on list from [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials#Etching From ATX HackerSpace].

* Most of the above "cut-safe" materials
* Glass
* Ceramic tile
* Anodized aluminum (Read special instructions for this material)
* Painted/coated metals (Read special instructions for this material)
* Stone, Marble, Granite, Soapstone, Onyx. (Read special instructions for this material) (successfully used at THS)

=== Selecting Materials ===

* [http://makezine.com/2011/09/22/identifying-unknown-plastics/ Identifying unknown plastics (link)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Extruded vs. Cast Acrylic]

* Materials thicker than about 1/4 inch (6mm) may not cut cleanly through due to how/where the laser beam point focuses

=== Materials Available at the Space ===

We do not currently resell materials for use with the laser cutter.

We keep a steady supply of scrap 1/4 inch plywood and acrylic sheet at the space for free use. Please donate any useful scraps and dispose of pieces that are too small to be used.

There are a number of donated pieces of other plastics, some tiles, etc. kept near the laser cutter for free use. Be aware that some of this plastic may be polycarbonate or other materials.

We have a good amount of donated matte board (scraps from framing art) that cuts well. It is kept in a lateral file below the office supplies.

=== Where to buy acrylic ===
* [http://www.farcoplastics.com/ Farco Plastics Supply] (in Clearwater) Recommended by a few of our members.
* [http://www.plasticsamerica.com/ Plastics America] (out towards Brandon.) "They price by the square foot and charge a single cut fee per order so you benefit from buying in quantity. Buying one or two pieces from them can get expensive. I think I recall the cut fee being $12ish." -- Bill
* [http://www.delviesplastics.com/ Delvie's Plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.estreetplastics.com/ e street plastics] (on line)
* [https://www.ceruleantides.com/ Cerulean Tides] (Ft. Lauderdale) "Ships same day via UPS", is usually at my door the next day."

=== Where to buy wood ===
See: [https://wiki.tampahackerspace.com/Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood Where_to_Buy_Things#Wood]

== Tool Use ==

* Videos: We have videos uploaded instructing on [https://youtu.be/hCUCX2dZWiU](removing/installing air assist cone) and [https://youtu.be/WrXSZ3RTzKs](setting the z-height)
* '''Check lens. If you have been trained in lens cleaning, Clean only if necessary (see '''Maintenance''' section below for procedures)'''
* Create a new document in CorelDraw that is 24"Wx12"H
* Load SVG or create design. Use only the 8 supported colors.
* "Print" design
** Before clicking "OK" to print, go to "Preferences" and set appropriate values for each color.
** Review information from the class on how to do this.
** Review Laser Cutter documentation and log book for what settings to use.
* Turn on the exhaust fan.
* Power on Laser Cutter.
* If air assist nozzle is installed, turn on its air
* Put masking on your material to reduce scorching. (We have a large roll of self-adhesive masking in the Laser Cutter work area.)
* Place material on the cut bed.
* Set the Z-axis height and return the focus alignment tool to it's storage location.
* Close all Laser Cutter doors.
* Press "Next ==>" on the laser cutter control panel to use the most recently printed file.
* Double check your work.
* Press "Start".
* '''Never leave the Laser Cutter unattended!'''
* When done, turn off exhaust fan, and air assist (if applicable)
* ''Write a short entry about your print job in the Log Book about who, when, what you cut, what settings you used, and the cut duration.''

== Software ==

=== Corel Draw ===
[https://www.coreldraw.com Corel Draw] X7 is provided on the Laser Engraver workstation. It is used for job layout, as well as building vector (and other) images for cutting.

=== Inkscape ===

[https://inkscape.org/en/ Inkscape] is a free Open Source vector graphics editor that you can use to get used to the overall concept of vector based graphics design. However, be aware that there are certain issues you must face when transferring your design to the laser printer.

Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw using SVG format, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%. PDF and certain other formats do not suffer from this problem and are the preferred method of import.

''Note: As of Inkscape 0.92 the default resolution has been changed to 96dpi to match the CSS standard and now matches that of CorelDraw. The information on scaling may be needed only if using an older version of Inkscape.''

See [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Using_Inkscape_with_the_Laser_Cutter this guide] by the ATX Hackerspace for help.

=== Adobe Illustrator ===
Illustrator could be used, but specifics haven't been documented here.

=== Other ===
There are others, see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Comparison_of_vector_graphics_editors

== Tips and Tricks ==

Since the terms are used repeatedly used in this document, here's [http://vector-conversions.com/vectorizing/raster_vs_vector.html the difference] between [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raster_graphics Raster] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vector_graphics Vector] images.

=== Design tips from the first class ===
* Set your page size to 24"W x 12"H.
* Placing your image at the top left corner cuts it from the top left corner.
* Keep a 1/8" margin in case the laser (or bed, or material) is slightly out of alignment.
* Vector cuts should use line widths of 0.001" or hairline. Anything wider than 0.005" will be rasterized and not cut the way you expect. You can draw with wider lines and reset them before printing in CorelDraw using "Select All" then "Object" --> "Fill And Stroke" to reset all lines to 0.001".
* Draw your "cut" lines in red, and "etch" lines in blue or green. Anything you want to rasterize should be in monochrome/greyscale. (Advanced users can use more colors for more things...but if you know enough to do this, then you don't need to be told how.)
* Lines with colors not set to 255 for any RGB value or less than 100% opacity will be treated as black and rasterized or worse, ignored, by the print driver.[SIC] Don't use color models other than RGB.
* '''Problem''': I created an SVG in Inkscape but when I import it into CorelDraw it's the wrong size. --- Inkscape uses 90 DPI and CorelDraw uses 96 DPI. If you are importing an SVG from Inkscape into CorelDraw, you will need to rescale the image to 1.0666666666%

=== Other tips members have learned ===

* CorelDraw lets you do math inside the size entry fields. For example, if you have a Width that is 4.228 in, you can append to that "+1.25" and CorelDraw will change the value to 5.478 in. Furthermore, you can enter values in either "standard" or metric units and CorelDraw will recalculate the value in the document's default units. For example: if the document is set to inches and you entered "65mm" CorelDraw will do the calculation and set the value to 2.5590 inches.

* If you realize you forgot to turn on the vent, you should quickly turn on the vent! But it's better to not forget to turn it on in the first place.

* It may be helpful to use the restroom/get a drink/stretch/etc before starting a particular long (complex) job. DO NOT leave laser cutter unattended while cutting or etching.

* You can use scrap material (pieces that have already been cut) to test out a design, or for a finished piece if it is the right size. There is a bin of "scrap material" kept near the laser cutter.

* Etching a large section of thin acrylic will cause warping.

* If you are etching an oddly shaped and curved surface (for example a pumpkin), try setting the Z-height to the "median" (middle) height you are etching.

* Refer to the following table for spot sizes (the width of the cut, or "kerf") and focal ranges of the lenses available. (Note: The Tampa Hackerspace only has the 2.0 lens, the others are presented for completeness.)
{| class="wikitable"
|-
| FOCAL LENGTH
| SPOT SIZE
| FOCAL RANGE
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 1.5 “
| .003 “
| + / - .075 “
|-
| 2.0 “
| .005 “
| + / - .100 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 2.5 “
| .007 “
| + / - .125 “
|- style="font-style: italic; color: gray;"
| 4.0 “
| .013 “
| + / - .200 “
|}

* You can use the "pointer" mode to "proof" a design. If the any of the doors are open, the red light on the control panel will flash. If you press "Start" to run your job in this state, the job will begin and will trace out the entire design, HOWEVER, the standard invisible CO2 laser will be replaced with a red pointer dot (laser diode). This will let you test your layout and will calculate the job time. Be careful though, the red dot will be close, but not exactly where the laser will cut.

* You can use the X-Y mode to find positions on the print bed. Press the "X-Y" button and use the arrow pad to move the red pointer. The LCD displays the current x,y coordinates under the pointer. These coordinates can be used to position a work piece, and the values entered into CorelDraw. Use the up-down arrows and "Select" to choose "Re-home pointer" when finished. (Check the manual, linked below, for a more through explanation.)

* After the first time a job is run (including "pointer" test run mentioned above), during subsequent runs of the same job the control panel timer will change from a "count-up" timer to a "count-down" timer, telling you how much time remains on your job.

* You can press the "Pause" button on the control panel to pause your job. The laser cutter will finish the current line, then return the head to home. If it's in the middle of a raster, this will happen almost immediately, BUT if it's in the middle of a long cut line, the line will finish first. This may take several seconds. Your job can be resumed where it left off by pressing the "Resume" button. There may be a slight offset when resuming a job, especially if the system was in the middle of a raster. "Wait for the motion system to stop and move to the home position before opening any door otherwise the laser beam will not resume from the position it stopped at."

=== Photo-quality raster images ===
'''Photo-quality raster images can be etched''' on material at high DPI(dots-per-inch)/PPI(pulses-per-inch). For example at 500 PPI on Acrylic.
* Open your image in [http://www.gimp.org/ The GIMP] or another program capable of editing photos. (CorelDraw doesn't support all the features we need.)
In GIMP:
* Click on "Image" --> "Mode" --> "Grayscale" to convert color to greyscale.
* Click on "Image" --> "Print Size" and set the X and Y Resolutions to the desired value (500 pixels/in).
* If you want to invert the grays (change black to white and white to black), click on "Colors" --> "Invert". The black portions are what will be etched. I recommend etching less instead of more; etching a large section of acrylic black will cause warping.
* If you need to adjust the gray levels, you can tweak the values using:
** "Colors" --> "Levels" OR
** "Colors" --> "Curves", You'll have to play around with these settings.
* Save your image with a new name and as a JPG or PNG.

=== Cleaning Acrylic Cuts ===

* Do not clean laser-cut acrylic with alcohol. "There is residual stress in a laser cut edge. The solvent breaks bonds and lets the plastic release the stress by cracking."--Wesley Faler.
** -- [https://web.archive.org/web/20170226013751/http://www.stewartsigns.com/support/answers/1182 Stewart Signs: How to clean polycarbonate (should apply to acrylic)] -- Internet archive link
** [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cU9Ty0L0g7E What happens when you put alcohol on acrylic (short video)]

* [http://www.cutlasercut.com/resources/tips-and-advice/everything-you-need-to-know-about-acrylic Ammonia / Windex is also not recommended for cleaning]

* For masking paper adhesive residue, some (untested) suggestions are Goo Gone, WD-40, mineral oil, naptha, or even cooking oil

=== [[Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver]] ===

== Common Problems ==

=== My job didn't cut ===
'''Problem''': My design is in CorelDraw but all or a portion didn't cut.
Some causes of this include:
* The line thickness was not set to "hairline" or 0.001" inches and was ignored. (This color set to only "Vector" cut.)
* The line color is not one of the basic colors supported and was ignored.
* Driver setting for this chosen color set to "Skip".
* Driver set incorrectly to "Raster" or incorrectly to "Vector".
* Driver power level set to 0.
* Design is outside the 24" by 12" cut area.
* Design has transparency. This may manifest as vector lines rastering instead. Select the offending lines and set to "No Transparency" in the Object Properties.

=== My cut or etch isn't deep enough ===
'''Problem''': My cut or etch isn't deep enough.

Without moving anything or changing any settings, you can press "Start" again and the exact same job will be run a second time, cutting in the exact same places if the work piece hasn't been moved. If your material is too thick, the laser may not be focused correctly to cut all the way through. You might be able to fix this by adjusting the Z-axis slightly lower.

== Maintenance ==

'''Refer maintenance to qualified personnel. If no qualified personal are on-site, post in [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0H6JEBK6 #broken] and/or [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/messages/C0GQ3BNTG #laser-engraver] slack channel.'''

'''Lens'''
See [https://tampahackerspace.slack.com/team/leebc Bryan Lee] for training on lens cleaning procedure. Otherwise, follow [https://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=YiN3J2WShQY this procedure].

''Maintenance Schedule and Summary'' (From the manual)

Since the maintenance requirements of the laser system is dependent on the type of material being run, the quantity of material being removed, the hours of operation, and the quality of the exhaust blower, it must be user defined. As a starting point, we recommend the following schedule:
* '''As necessary'''
** ''Engraving table'' -- soap solution, or alcohol or acetone, and paper towels.
** ''Main enclosure'' -- vacuum loose debris. Use soft cloth or paper towels and the soap solution to clean the enclosure.
** ''Top door window'' -- cotton cloth and the soap solution. The top window is made out of acrylic. DO NOT use paper towels because they will scratch the acrylic. Also, DO NOT use window cleaner, alcohol, or acetone, as these chemicals will crack the acrylic. Only use cleaners compatible with acrylic.
* '''Every 8 hours of engraving''' -- Turn off and unplug the laser system.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis rails and bearing tracks'' -- cotton swabs or paper towels, and alcohol or soap solution.
** ''Clean X-axis and Y-axis bearings'' -- After the rails and tracks are cleaned, use a clean swab or paper towel, and alcohol to clean all of the bearings by holding the swab against each bearing and moving the motion system by hand to roll the bearings against the swab. There are seven bearings in the system, three (3) on the focus carriage, two (2) on the left side of the X-rail, and two (2) on the right side of the X-rail.
** ''Clean X-axis belt''.
** ''Check beam window, #2 mirror, #3 mirror, and focus lens for debris''. Clean ONLY if dirty. Do not clean immediately after use, optics will be hot. -- Refer this step to trained personal.

* '''Every month'''
** ''Clean cooling fan filters'' -- Wash the element in a soap and water solution, dry, and re-install. If scheduling prevents filters from being washed and dried, use a dust buster to carefully vacuum dust off the filters. Be certain to replace them with the same side out that they were removed.
** ''Clean and re-lubricate Z-axis lead screws'' -- The only lubrication that may be required [on the entire laser system] is the screw threads for the table lifting mechanism. After some time, contaminants can adhere to the lubricant, which can cause the engraving table to bind up or sound squeaky. If this is the case, wipe off the contaminated grease with a soft cloth dampened with alcohol and apply fresh white lithium grease to the screw threads. NEVER SPRAY ANY DEGREASING SOLUTIONS DIRECTLY ONTO THE THREADS. Run the table up and down to work in the fresh grease. Repeat if necessary.
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis belt wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Check and/or clean X-axis and Y-axis drive gears''
** ''Check for X-axis and Y-axis bearing wear'' – replace as necessary
** ''Inspect system for loose screws and mechanical parts'' – tighten if necessary

* '''Every 6 months'''
** ''Exhaust plenum'' -- Remove it from the system. Using your soap and water solution, clean the inside of plenum as well as the inside rear wall of the Laser System.
** ''Blower fan'' -- Check blower fan screen for loose cut material (cardboard) that may have been sucked through the exhaust system and be restricting air flow.
** ''"Bucket" Filter Cleaning'' -- Cleaning is simply a matter of stabilizing the buckets so they don't twist, unscrew the top bucket's lid, remove the filter material, take it outside and clean, dry it, refold it (air must pass through 4 layers), reinsert it. The screen on the exhaust side can be removed, and cleaned. Soaking and/or brushing may be necessary. The other screen can not be removed. When done, and screw the top on.
:::- The purpose of the exhaust filter is to reduce material passing through the exhaust blower "in the attic". The blowers were getting gunked up and needed to be exchanged every 6 months or so. We attempted to use a cyclonic system last year, but it did not allow enough airflow.
:::- The current setup draws air from the enclosure, through a 4 inch flexible metal duct and into the bottom bucket. When air enters the bottom bucket, the volume expands, slowing the airflow (but not the total volume, cubic feet/minute). The flow impacts a baffle and some particles should stop moving and ultimately fall. The airflow changes direction several times, which should stop more particulates. The air enters the upper bucket and passes through the filter material, catching even more particulates. There's a perforated metal panel the air goes through, then up the stack into the blower, then up another stack out the vent in the roof.
:::- Flow problems can happen if the hoses get kinked or excessively dirty inside.

== Related Links ==

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2Z051TVVwaldaUGM&authuser=0 Safety Warnings]

* [http://atxhackerspace.org/wiki/Laser_Cutter_Materials ATX HackerSpace's list of Laser Cutter Materials]

* [https://festi.info/boxes.py/ Boxes.py] Generate SVGs for boxes. Includes boxes with FLEXIBLE, curved sides. Many output formats are available, use svg or pdf, and avoid dxf as it seems to add unnecessary vectors.

* [http://boxmaker.connectionlab.org/ Box Maker]

* [http://www.makercase.com/ MakerCase]

* [https://www.remove.bg/ Remove Image Background]

* [https://polygonia.design/ Rapidly Create Symmetrical Designs for Manufacturing]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1DYNPk58hrpItedoqooGeMAFEw2Fem7AQ Universal Laser M360 Manual]

* [https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ioIpMk8M7658dY5rWBMrSJOM7g9V62d0 Cleaning tips from Epilog Laser]

* [https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BynqFD678bx2MGExMF9OSnppZWc&authuser=0 Orientation Slide Deck]

* [https://www.ulsinc.com/materials/eva-foam Universal Laser's writeup on EVA foam]

* [http://www.rabbitlaserusa.com/DownloadableProjects.html Cardstock and Corrugated Boxes]

* [http://www.templatemaker.nl/ Free custom paper templates]

* [http://image.online-convert.com/ Online Image Converter]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/ Engraving Systems Support, whom THS bought our laser cutter from]

* [http://www.engravingsys.com/equipment-support/universal-laser-systems-support/ ESS Support, search for M360]

* [http://parts.engravingsys.com/MVX-Laser-Parts Replacement Parts and Accessories]

* [https://github.com/vanillabox/OpenSCADBoxes OpenSCAD generated flex/living-hinge boxes]

[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Fabrication]]
[[Category:Laser Cutting]]

Where to Buy Things

2022-03-27T21:53:02Z

Leebc: /* Wood */ added Suncoast Cabinet Supplies / removed duplicate Rockler Branden

This is a list of vendors for different materials and tools.

[https://www.dickblick.com/stores/florida/tampa/ Blick Art Supplies] is on Westshore, just around the corner from THS. Has some hobby materials too, including 1/8" and thinner plywood

Both [http://westshoreplaza.com/stores Westshore] & [http://www.shopinternationalplaza.com/shopping International Plaza] malls are about a mile away, see their websites for store listings.

== Electronics ==

* [https://www.adafruit.com/ Adafruit Industries] (discounted group orders periodically, announced on [[Using Slack|Slack]])
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/ SparkFun Electronics] (discounted group orders periodically, announced on [[Using Slack|Slack]])
* [http://digikey.com Digi-Key]
* [http://mouser.com Mouser]
* [http://alliedelec.com/ Allied Electronics]
* [http://newark.com Newark] (Element14/Farnell)

== Laser Cutter Materials ==

(See the [[Laser Cutter]] page)

== Wood ==
There are videos on youtube help getting over the intimidation of visiting the lumber yard. Shannon from the Renaissance woodworker is one. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXqf7gkl76E RenaissanceWW: RWW 149 Demystify the Lumber Yard]

* [https://www.rockler.com/retail/stores/fl/brandon-store Rockler] in Brandon. (Ask about this in Slack#members)
* Suncoast Cabinet Supplies -- 4640 126th Ave N, Clearwater, FL 33762 -- (727) 561-9699 (they have high quality MDF)
* [http://www.craftsmensupply.com/ Craftsmen Supply] in Tampa (Very Friendly)
* North Rome Lumber, 5810 N Rome Ave, Tampa, FL 33603
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/stores/tampa Woodcraft] in Clearwater
* [http://weisshardwoods.com/ Weiss Hardwood] in Largo
* [https://www.northwestplywood.com/ Northwest Plywood] in Largo
* [http://www.advantagelumber.com/ Advantage Trim & Lumber] in Sarasota (Very Friendly)
* [http://www.intercitylumber.com/ Intercity Lumber] in Tampa. "Lumber and plywood in Tampa. Many prices online. We are the area's leading provider of cedar lumber, hardwood lumber, plywood and much more."
* [https://www.rugbyabp.com/locations/tampa Rugby Architectural products] great stock and great prices, but limited selection: white oak, cherry, walnut stock), but don't seem to know what 4/4 s4s is lumber when you ask them.
* [https://www.bellforestproducts.com/ BellForest] (online)
* [https://smokeyhilldesigns.com/ Smokey Hill Designs] (online)

== Metal ==
* Alro Metals Outlet, remnants end at 12490 49th St N, Clearwater, FL 33762. "A large metal supplier. As with all places that offer remnants, their supply varies, but they have always been well stocked for my needs and they are organized well."

== Fasteners and Hardware ==
* Tri City Bolt & Screw - Pinellas US 19 near Ulmerton
* A&N Sales - Anderson Road north of Hillsborough
* House of Threads
* Ace Hardware
* [https://www.mcmaster.com/ McMaster Carr] (online)
* [https://www.rockler.com/ Rockler] (online) or (Coming soon/February 2022) [https://www.rockler.com/retail/stores/fl/brandon-store 169 Brandon Town Center Drive Brandon, Florida 33511]
* [https://www.pennstateind.com/ Penn State Industries] (online)
* [https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/ Craft Supplies USA] (online)

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:WhereIs]]
[[Category:Main]]

Where to Buy Things

2022-02-15T04:00:39Z

Leebc: /* Wood */

This is a list of vendors for different materials and tools.

[https://www.dickblick.com/stores/florida/tampa/ Blick Art Supplies] is on Westshore, just around the corner from THS. Has some hobby materials too, including 1/8" and thinner plywood

Both [http://westshoreplaza.com/stores Westshore] & [http://www.shopinternationalplaza.com/shopping International Plaza] malls are about a mile away, see their websites for store listings.

== Electronics ==

* [https://www.adafruit.com/ Adafruit Industries] (discounted group orders periodically, announced on [[Using Slack|Slack]])
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/ SparkFun Electronics] (discounted group orders periodically, announced on [[Using Slack|Slack]])
* [http://digikey.com Digi-Key]
* [http://mouser.com Mouser]
* [http://alliedelec.com/ Allied Electronics]
* [http://newark.com Newark] (Element14/Farnell)

== Laser Cutter Materials ==

(See the [[Laser Cutter]] page)

== Wood ==
There are videos on youtube help getting over the intimidation of visiting the lumber yard. Shannon from the Renaissance woodworker is one. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXqf7gkl76E RenaissanceWW: RWW 149 Demystify the Lumber Yard]

* Rockler store in Brandon
* [http://www.craftsmensupply.com/ Craftsmen Supply] in Tampa (Very Friendly)
* North Rome Lumber, 5810 N Rome Ave, Tampa, FL 33603
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/stores/tampa Woodcraft] in Clearwater
* (Coming soon/February 2022) [https://www.rockler.com/retail/stores/fl/brandon-store Rockler] in Brandon
* [http://weisshardwoods.com/ Weiss Hardwood] in Largo
* [https://www.northwestplywood.com/ Northwest Plywood] in Largo
* [http://www.advantagelumber.com/ Advantage Trim & Lumber] in Sarasota (Very Friendly)
* [http://www.intercitylumber.com/ Intercity Lumber] in Tampa. "Lumber and plywood in Tampa. Many prices online. We are the area's leading provider of cedar lumber, hardwood lumber, plywood and much more."
* [https://www.rugbyabp.com/locations/tampa Rugby Architectural products] great stock and great prices, but limited selection: white oak, cherry, walnut stock), but don't seem to know what 4/4 s4s is lumber when you ask them.
* [https://www.bellforestproducts.com/ BellForest] (online)
* [https://smokeyhilldesigns.com/ Smokey Hill Designs] (online)

== Metal ==
* Alro Metals Outlet, remnants end at 12490 49th St N, Clearwater, FL 33762. "A large metal supplier. As with all places that offer remnants, their supply varies, but they have always been well stocked for my needs and they are organized well."

== Fasteners and Hardware ==
* Tri City Bolt & Screw - Pinellas US 19 near Ulmerton
* A&N Sales - Anderson Road north of Hillsborough
* House of Threads
* Ace Hardware
* [https://www.mcmaster.com/ McMaster Carr] (online)
* [https://www.rockler.com/ Rockler] (online) or (Coming soon/February 2022) [https://www.rockler.com/retail/stores/fl/brandon-store 169 Brandon Town Center Drive Brandon, Florida 33511]
* [https://www.pennstateind.com/ Penn State Industries] (online)
* [https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/ Craft Supplies USA] (online)

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:WhereIs]]
[[Category:Main]]

Where to Buy Things

2022-02-14T20:28:00Z

Leebc: /* Wood */

This is a list of vendors for different materials and tools.

[https://www.dickblick.com/stores/florida/tampa/ Blick Art Supplies] is on Westshore, just around the corner from THS. Has some hobby materials too, including 1/8" and thinner plywood

Both [http://westshoreplaza.com/stores Westshore] & [http://www.shopinternationalplaza.com/shopping International Plaza] malls are about a mile away, see their websites for store listings.

== Electronics ==

* [https://www.adafruit.com/ Adafruit Industries] (discounted group orders periodically, announced on [[Using Slack|Slack]])
* [https://www.sparkfun.com/ SparkFun Electronics] (discounted group orders periodically, announced on [[Using Slack|Slack]])
* [http://digikey.com Digi-Key]
* [http://mouser.com Mouser]
* [http://alliedelec.com/ Allied Electronics]
* [http://newark.com Newark] (Element14/Farnell)

== Laser Cutter Materials ==

(See the [[Laser Cutter]] page)

== Wood ==
There are videos on youtube help getting over the intimidation of visiting the lumber yard. Shannon from the Renaissance woodworker is one. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXqf7gkl76E RenaissanceWW: RWW 149 Demystify the Lumber Yard]

* Rockler store in Brandon ('''See note below about DISCOUNT''')
* [http://www.craftsmensupply.com/ Craftsmen Supply] in Tampa (Very Friendly)
* North Rome Lumber, 5810 N Rome Ave, Tampa, FL 33603
* [https://www.woodcraft.com/stores/tampa Woodcraft] in Clearwater
* (Coming soon/February 2022) [https://www.rockler.com/retail/stores/fl/brandon-store Rockler] in Brandon
* [http://weisshardwoods.com/ Weiss Hardwood] in Largo
* [https://www.northwestplywood.com/ Northwest Plywood] in Largo
* [http://www.advantagelumber.com/ Advantage Trim & Lumber] in Sarasota (Very Friendly)
* [http://www.intercitylumber.com/ Intercity Lumber] in Tampa. "Lumber and plywood in Tampa. Many prices online. We are the area's leading provider of cedar lumber, hardwood lumber, plywood and much more."
* [https://www.rugbyabp.com/locations/tampa Rugby Architectural products] great stock and great prices, but limited selection: white oak, cherry, walnut stock), but don't seem to know what 4/4 s4s is lumber when you ask them.
* [https://www.bellforestproducts.com/ BellForest] (online)
* [https://smokeyhilldesigns.com/ Smokey Hill Designs] (online)

2022-02-14-- Benjamin Um writes: Good news! @William Stillwell ( KI4SWY ) and I have been talking with the management at the new Rockler store in Brandon to get the Hackerspace "Guild" status for a 10 percent discount. Talked with both managers last week and was told that they have been given approval to give us a 10 percent discount. At the moment, all we need to do is inform the person at the checkout counter that you are a member of the Tampa Hackerspace and that you would like the "Guild" discount for your purchase. Not all items are eligible for the discount (e.g. power tools). I personally have taken advantage of the discount this past Saturday. They are currently doing a soft open before the official store opening in March, so please be patient with the employees, because they are all new to everything.

== Metal ==
* Alro Metals Outlet, remnants end at 12490 49th St N, Clearwater, FL 33762. "A large metal supplier. As with all places that offer remnants, their supply varies, but they have always been well stocked for my needs and they are organized well."

== Fasteners and Hardware ==
* Tri City Bolt & Screw - Pinellas US 19 near Ulmerton
* A&N Sales - Anderson Road north of Hillsborough
* House of Threads
* Ace Hardware
* [https://www.mcmaster.com/ McMaster Carr] (online)
* [https://www.rockler.com/ Rockler] (online) or (Coming soon/February 2022) [https://www.rockler.com/retail/stores/fl/brandon-store 169 Brandon Town Center Drive Brandon, Florida 33511]
* [https://www.pennstateind.com/ Penn State Industries] (online)
* [https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/ Craft Supplies USA] (online)

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:WhereIs]]
[[Category:Main]]

Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver

2021-12-17T09:42:31Z

Leebc: /* Reasons you might want to Use X-Y Mode */

The ULS M360 Laser engraver has an "X-Y Mode" which can be used to obtain precise measurements and locations on the laser's bed.

Last revision {{REVISIONTIMESTAMP}} by {{REVISIONUSER}}

__TOC__

== Reasons you might want to Use X-Y Mode ==
* To find a usable area on a piece of already cut material (scrap)
* To mark the exact location of an engrave on an existing piece
** Raster engrave a logo in the middle of a pre-cut plaque
** Vector engrave a design on the left edge of a cutting board
* To find the center of a circle and vector cut a small hole

== How to Use X-Y Mode ==
'''WARNING: The procedures described here may cause sudden, unexpected, rapid movement of laser engraver mechanicals. To avoid injury or damage to the machine: keep body parts and loose materials out of the enclosure. Ensure that objects inside the enclosure will not impact the focus carriage or the air-assist nozzle.'''
* If you are using the rotary attachment, remove the air assist nozzle
* Ensure that the honeycomb bed (if installed) is placed and pressed flush and square against the upper left corner
* Place your work piece on the bed.
** Typically, you will want your material pressed flush into the upper left corner of the bed.
** If you plan on multiple laser passes, secure your work piece to the bed using tape

* Set the Z-height using the standard procedure
* Remove any unnecessary objects from the enclosure, including body parts

[Figure 1: M360 Laser Engraver Control Panel] 
[[File:M360_Laser_Engraver_Control_Panel.png]]

* Make sure the Laser Engraver's display reads "Ready" or the name of your file
* Press the button on the control panel labeled "X-Y". It is near the right hand side.
** The focus carriage MAY rapidly move towards the middle of the work area
** A red laser d•t will appear under the focus carriage
** The display will change and will now show text that includes "X-Pos" and "Y-Pos"
*** If you have the rotary attachment installed, you will see "X-Pos" and the Rotation in degrees.

* Press the left or down arrow that is around the X-Y button
** The focus carriage MAY rapidly move towards the middle of the work area
* The focus carriage will move slightly each time one of the movement buttons is pressed: "Up", "Down", "Left", or "Right"
** MOTION CONTROL: Pressing and holding down one or two adjacent, arrow buttons will cause the Focus Carriage to move in the respective direction. The focus carriage will start to move slowly and will accelerate to a faster speed until you release the button(s).
** This motion will make a loud noise as the motors turn and move the focus carriage
* Use the arrows to move the red laser dot to a feature you want to locate
** With each movement, the "X-Pos" and/or "Y-Pos" will change

* X-Pos is the absolute X-position on the laser engraver's bed
* Y-Pos is the Y-position on the laser engraver's bed,
** HOWEVER: CorelDraw uses the LOWER left corner as the origin, and the Laser Engraver uses the UPPER left corner as the origin
*** '''You must subtract Y-Pos from 12 for the correct value in CorelDraw'''

[Figure2: CorelDraw's Object Property Bar] 
[[File:CorelDraw-Property Bar.png]]
* In CorelDraw, there should be an X and a Y coordinate box near the upper left of the menus. There may be 2 sets of these boxes.
* Next to the coordinates is a small icon with 9 tiny boxes arranged in a square pattern.
** These boxes indicate what point will be used as the Origin Point (the values shown for X and Y) of the currently selected object
*** Top Left, Top Center, Top Right, Left Middle, Middle Center, Right Middle, Bottom Left, Bottom Center, or Bottom Right
* Choose the origin point you wish to use
* Type the X-Pos value into the X box
* In the Y box, type "<code>12 - </code>" and then the Y-Pos, then press "Enter". (That's "twelve minus".) CorelDraw will automatically do the math!
** If you are working in a unit other than inches you can follow the 12 with a double-quote. I.e.: 12" -
* Verify the numbers you typed are correct, sometimes CorelDraw can be finicky about how they are entered.

== Examples Of Uses ==

===Example 1: Cutting a rectangle from a piece of scrap===

Let's say you have a "roughly triangular" piece of scrap material that has a large circle cut from it. There is still a usable amount of material in this piece and you want to cut a rectangle from it to use for a plaque or sign.
You want the rectangle to use the existing corner, the top edge, the left edge, and for the lower corner to intersect the circular cut.
[image suggested]

* Place your work piece in the upper left corner of the laser engraver honeycomb.
** Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.

* Use the arrows to move the red dot to the point on the circle where you want your rectangle to intersect.
** It is usually good to position a little bit short.

* In CorelDraw, select the Lower Right Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle that goes from the upper left corner to roughly where you think it will intersect the circle
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of the X-Pos. For example "<code>5.236</code>" and press enter.
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-2.879</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 9.121
** The rectangle will shift position.
* Grab the upper left corner of the rectangle and drag it to just beyond the boundaries of the document
** Remember, we want to use the existing edge, so we don't need to cut on the top or left side

* Test the rectangles location:
** Set the rectangle's line style to the color you want to cut with and "Hairline"
** With ONLY the rectangle selected, press Ctrl-P to print, or choose "Print" from the "File" menu.
** Choose the option "Selected Only" which is in roughly the middle of the print dialog box
** Make sure the rectangle's color is set to "Vector"
*** Since we are only testing you may want to use a higher speed than normal.
** Click on print
* After a moment, the Laser Engraver should display your file. Use the "Next File >>" button if not.

* '''Make sure you have exited X-Y mode by pressing the X-Y botton'''
* With the lid open and no body parts or objects in the machine, watch where you expect the cut to be made, and press the green "Start" button
* The red laser dot will turn on and will move across the lines to be cut.
** You should only see the right and bottom lines. These lines should intersect exactly at the point you chose.

'''--- Alternate CorelDraw Procedure ---'''

* In CorelDraw, select the Upper Left Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle that goes from the upper left corner to roughly where you think it will intersect the circle
* In the X coordinate box, type "<code>0</code>" and press Enter.
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type "<code>12</code>" and press enter.
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the x-size box ("|↔|") type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>5.236</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* In the y-size box ("↨") type the value of the Y-Pos and press enter. No need to subtract in this method. For example "<code>2.879</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* With this method, you will have a cut on all 4 sides of the rectangle.
* Follow the procedure in the example above to test the location.
** You may find that the left X=0 and top Y=12 cut lines are not at the edges of the honeycomb rulers.

===Example 2a: Placing a logo centered in the middle of a plaque===
For this example, we want to raster engrave a logo in the center of a pre-cut rectangular acrylic plaque.
We are going to assume that the center point of the logo image IS in the center of the logo. This is not always the case, sometimes there is extra white space on one side which can cause a logo to appear uneven.

* Place your work piece (the plaque) in the upper left cornet of the honeycomb bed.
* SHIFT your work piece so that there is about 1/4 inch between the top of the rail and the top of the plaque, and so that there is aproximately 1/4 inch of space between the left rail and the left side of the plaque. You can use anything available as a spacer if desired, perhaps scrap cuts or pens.
* Ensure that the horizontal and vertical axles of the work piece are parallel to the X and Y rails
** You can test this by putting the laser engraver in X-Y mode and moving the red laser dot along an edge or between two mirrored points.

* Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.
* Move the red laser dot to the upper left corner of the plaque.

* In CorelDraw, select the Upper Left Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle that goes from the upper left corner to roughly where you think the lower right corner is.
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>0.225</code>".
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-0.287</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 11.713
** The rectangle will shift position.

* Move the red laser dot to the lower right corner of the plaque.

* In the x-size box ("|↔|") type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>16.236</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* In the y-size box ("↨") type the value of the Y-Pos and press enter. No need to subtract in this method. For example "<code>6.666</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* Import your raster logo. Place it off to the side.
* With the selection tool selected, grab the logo in the middle.
* Drag the logo to the center of the rectangle you drew
* When the center of the logo lines up with the center of the rectangle, you should see the word "Center" underneath the mouse cursor.
** Release the mouse and the logo should snap to the center.

* BEFORE ENGRAVING: You may want to draw a new rectangle around the logo and test print it (no cut) to ensure you have correctly placed the logo in the center.

===Example 2b: Vector engrave a design on the left edge of a cutting board===
For this example, we want to Vector engrave a design on the left edge of a cutting board
We are going to assume that the center point of the design is the center, and that all parts of the design are grouped or otherwise joined, so we don't have to worry when moving it.

* Place your work piece (the cutting board) on the honeycomb bed.
* Ensure that the horizontal and vertical axles of the work piece are parallel to the X and Y rails
** You can test this by putting the laser engraver in X-Y mode and moving the red laser dot along an edge or between two mirrored points.

* Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.
* Move the red laser dot to the exact visual center of where you want the design to be placed.
** Alternately, you could choose to align to one of the corners or the middle of a side

* In CorelDraw, select the Center Origin Point (Or the Origin Point that matches the corner or side you are aligning to)
* Import or copy-paste your vector design if necessary
* Select the design
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>2.123</code>".
** The design will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-5.226</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 6.774.
** The design will shift position.

* You may want to test print (no engrave) the design first. Follow the test procedure as outlined above.

===Example 3: Vector cut a small hole in the center of a circle===
In this example we have a pre-cut circular work piece and want to cut a small circle in the middle of it. (For various reasons we are not able to measure it, or we don't want to go to the trouble of cutting a jig.)
** This method may not get the precise center, but we will be close.

* Place your work piece (the circle) on the honeycomb bed.
* Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.
* Move the red laser dot to the right edge of the circle. Be as precise as you can, the center of the laser dot should align with the right-most point on the circle

* In CorelDraw, select the Upper Left Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle approximately 1 inch square
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>5.980</code>".
** The square will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-2.9895</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 9.0105
** The square will shift position.

* Move the red laser dot to the bottom edge of the circle. Be as precise as you can, the center of the laser dot should align with the bottom-most point on the circle

* In CorelDraw, Draw a second rectangle approximately 1 inch square
* In the X coordinate box, type the new value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>2.899</code>".
** The square will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the new value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-5.983</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 6.017
** The square will shift position.

* Off to the side, draw a circle the diameter of the hole you want to cut.
** '''Please Note:''' Although it is fine and precise, the laser beam does burn a small extra width, or kerf. You may need to experiment to get the correct actual diameter.
** Hold down the CTRL key when drawing to ensure the circle is a circle and not larger in one dimension
* Using the selection tool, grab the middle of the circle
* "Tap" the middle of the circle against the upper left corner of each square with out releasing.
** Once you tap, layout lines will appear and can be used as a guide to place the circle at their intersection.
** The word "intersection" will appear when the cutting circle is correctly placed.

* You may want to test print (no cut) the circle before cutting. Follow the test procedure as outlined above.

Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver

2021-12-17T09:42:11Z

Leebc: /* Example 2b: Vector engrave a design on the right edge of a cutting board */ Now the left edge

The ULS M360 Laser engraver has an "X-Y Mode" which can be used to obtain precise measurements and locations on the laser's bed.

Last revision {{REVISIONTIMESTAMP}} by {{REVISIONUSER}}

__TOC__

== Reasons you might want to Use X-Y Mode ==
* To find a usable area on a piece of already cut material (scrap)
* To mark the exact location of an engrave on an existing piece
** Raster engrave a logo in the middle of a pre-cut plaque
** Vector engrave a design on the right edge of a cutting board
* To find the center of a circle and vector cut a small hole

== How to Use X-Y Mode ==
'''WARNING: The procedures described here may cause sudden, unexpected, rapid movement of laser engraver mechanicals. To avoid injury or damage to the machine: keep body parts and loose materials out of the enclosure. Ensure that objects inside the enclosure will not impact the focus carriage or the air-assist nozzle.'''
* If you are using the rotary attachment, remove the air assist nozzle
* Ensure that the honeycomb bed (if installed) is placed and pressed flush and square against the upper left corner
* Place your work piece on the bed.
** Typically, you will want your material pressed flush into the upper left corner of the bed.
** If you plan on multiple laser passes, secure your work piece to the bed using tape

* Set the Z-height using the standard procedure
* Remove any unnecessary objects from the enclosure, including body parts

[Figure 1: M360 Laser Engraver Control Panel] 
[[File:M360_Laser_Engraver_Control_Panel.png]]

* Make sure the Laser Engraver's display reads "Ready" or the name of your file
* Press the button on the control panel labeled "X-Y". It is near the right hand side.
** The focus carriage MAY rapidly move towards the middle of the work area
** A red laser d•t will appear under the focus carriage
** The display will change and will now show text that includes "X-Pos" and "Y-Pos"
*** If you have the rotary attachment installed, you will see "X-Pos" and the Rotation in degrees.

* Press the left or down arrow that is around the X-Y button
** The focus carriage MAY rapidly move towards the middle of the work area
* The focus carriage will move slightly each time one of the movement buttons is pressed: "Up", "Down", "Left", or "Right"
** MOTION CONTROL: Pressing and holding down one or two adjacent, arrow buttons will cause the Focus Carriage to move in the respective direction. The focus carriage will start to move slowly and will accelerate to a faster speed until you release the button(s).
** This motion will make a loud noise as the motors turn and move the focus carriage
* Use the arrows to move the red laser dot to a feature you want to locate
** With each movement, the "X-Pos" and/or "Y-Pos" will change

* X-Pos is the absolute X-position on the laser engraver's bed
* Y-Pos is the Y-position on the laser engraver's bed,
** HOWEVER: CorelDraw uses the LOWER left corner as the origin, and the Laser Engraver uses the UPPER left corner as the origin
*** '''You must subtract Y-Pos from 12 for the correct value in CorelDraw'''

[Figure2: CorelDraw's Object Property Bar] 
[[File:CorelDraw-Property Bar.png]]
* In CorelDraw, there should be an X and a Y coordinate box near the upper left of the menus. There may be 2 sets of these boxes.
* Next to the coordinates is a small icon with 9 tiny boxes arranged in a square pattern.
** These boxes indicate what point will be used as the Origin Point (the values shown for X and Y) of the currently selected object
*** Top Left, Top Center, Top Right, Left Middle, Middle Center, Right Middle, Bottom Left, Bottom Center, or Bottom Right
* Choose the origin point you wish to use
* Type the X-Pos value into the X box
* In the Y box, type "<code>12 - </code>" and then the Y-Pos, then press "Enter". (That's "twelve minus".) CorelDraw will automatically do the math!
** If you are working in a unit other than inches you can follow the 12 with a double-quote. I.e.: 12" -
* Verify the numbers you typed are correct, sometimes CorelDraw can be finicky about how they are entered.

== Examples Of Uses ==

===Example 1: Cutting a rectangle from a piece of scrap===

Let's say you have a "roughly triangular" piece of scrap material that has a large circle cut from it. There is still a usable amount of material in this piece and you want to cut a rectangle from it to use for a plaque or sign.
You want the rectangle to use the existing corner, the top edge, the left edge, and for the lower corner to intersect the circular cut.
[image suggested]

* Place your work piece in the upper left corner of the laser engraver honeycomb.
** Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.

* Use the arrows to move the red dot to the point on the circle where you want your rectangle to intersect.
** It is usually good to position a little bit short.

* In CorelDraw, select the Lower Right Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle that goes from the upper left corner to roughly where you think it will intersect the circle
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of the X-Pos. For example "<code>5.236</code>" and press enter.
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-2.879</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 9.121
** The rectangle will shift position.
* Grab the upper left corner of the rectangle and drag it to just beyond the boundaries of the document
** Remember, we want to use the existing edge, so we don't need to cut on the top or left side

* Test the rectangles location:
** Set the rectangle's line style to the color you want to cut with and "Hairline"
** With ONLY the rectangle selected, press Ctrl-P to print, or choose "Print" from the "File" menu.
** Choose the option "Selected Only" which is in roughly the middle of the print dialog box
** Make sure the rectangle's color is set to "Vector"
*** Since we are only testing you may want to use a higher speed than normal.
** Click on print
* After a moment, the Laser Engraver should display your file. Use the "Next File >>" button if not.

* '''Make sure you have exited X-Y mode by pressing the X-Y botton'''
* With the lid open and no body parts or objects in the machine, watch where you expect the cut to be made, and press the green "Start" button
* The red laser dot will turn on and will move across the lines to be cut.
** You should only see the right and bottom lines. These lines should intersect exactly at the point you chose.

'''--- Alternate CorelDraw Procedure ---'''

* In CorelDraw, select the Upper Left Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle that goes from the upper left corner to roughly where you think it will intersect the circle
* In the X coordinate box, type "<code>0</code>" and press Enter.
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type "<code>12</code>" and press enter.
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the x-size box ("|↔|") type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>5.236</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* In the y-size box ("↨") type the value of the Y-Pos and press enter. No need to subtract in this method. For example "<code>2.879</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* With this method, you will have a cut on all 4 sides of the rectangle.
* Follow the procedure in the example above to test the location.
** You may find that the left X=0 and top Y=12 cut lines are not at the edges of the honeycomb rulers.

===Example 2a: Placing a logo centered in the middle of a plaque===
For this example, we want to raster engrave a logo in the center of a pre-cut rectangular acrylic plaque.
We are going to assume that the center point of the logo image IS in the center of the logo. This is not always the case, sometimes there is extra white space on one side which can cause a logo to appear uneven.

* Place your work piece (the plaque) in the upper left cornet of the honeycomb bed.
* SHIFT your work piece so that there is about 1/4 inch between the top of the rail and the top of the plaque, and so that there is aproximately 1/4 inch of space between the left rail and the left side of the plaque. You can use anything available as a spacer if desired, perhaps scrap cuts or pens.
* Ensure that the horizontal and vertical axles of the work piece are parallel to the X and Y rails
** You can test this by putting the laser engraver in X-Y mode and moving the red laser dot along an edge or between two mirrored points.

* Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.
* Move the red laser dot to the upper left corner of the plaque.

* In CorelDraw, select the Upper Left Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle that goes from the upper left corner to roughly where you think the lower right corner is.
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>0.225</code>".
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-0.287</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 11.713
** The rectangle will shift position.

* Move the red laser dot to the lower right corner of the plaque.

* In the x-size box ("|↔|") type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>16.236</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* In the y-size box ("↨") type the value of the Y-Pos and press enter. No need to subtract in this method. For example "<code>6.666</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* Import your raster logo. Place it off to the side.
* With the selection tool selected, grab the logo in the middle.
* Drag the logo to the center of the rectangle you drew
* When the center of the logo lines up with the center of the rectangle, you should see the word "Center" underneath the mouse cursor.
** Release the mouse and the logo should snap to the center.

* BEFORE ENGRAVING: You may want to draw a new rectangle around the logo and test print it (no cut) to ensure you have correctly placed the logo in the center.

===Example 2b: Vector engrave a design on the left edge of a cutting board===
For this example, we want to Vector engrave a design on the left edge of a cutting board
We are going to assume that the center point of the design is the center, and that all parts of the design are grouped or otherwise joined, so we don't have to worry when moving it.

* Place your work piece (the cutting board) on the honeycomb bed.
* Ensure that the horizontal and vertical axles of the work piece are parallel to the X and Y rails
** You can test this by putting the laser engraver in X-Y mode and moving the red laser dot along an edge or between two mirrored points.

* Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.
* Move the red laser dot to the exact visual center of where you want the design to be placed.
** Alternately, you could choose to align to one of the corners or the middle of a side

* In CorelDraw, select the Center Origin Point (Or the Origin Point that matches the corner or side you are aligning to)
* Import or copy-paste your vector design if necessary
* Select the design
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>2.123</code>".
** The design will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-5.226</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 6.774.
** The design will shift position.

* You may want to test print (no engrave) the design first. Follow the test procedure as outlined above.

===Example 3: Vector cut a small hole in the center of a circle===
In this example we have a pre-cut circular work piece and want to cut a small circle in the middle of it. (For various reasons we are not able to measure it, or we don't want to go to the trouble of cutting a jig.)
** This method may not get the precise center, but we will be close.

* Place your work piece (the circle) on the honeycomb bed.
* Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.
* Move the red laser dot to the right edge of the circle. Be as precise as you can, the center of the laser dot should align with the right-most point on the circle

* In CorelDraw, select the Upper Left Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle approximately 1 inch square
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>5.980</code>".
** The square will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-2.9895</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 9.0105
** The square will shift position.

* Move the red laser dot to the bottom edge of the circle. Be as precise as you can, the center of the laser dot should align with the bottom-most point on the circle

* In CorelDraw, Draw a second rectangle approximately 1 inch square
* In the X coordinate box, type the new value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>2.899</code>".
** The square will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the new value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-5.983</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 6.017
** The square will shift position.

* Off to the side, draw a circle the diameter of the hole you want to cut.
** '''Please Note:''' Although it is fine and precise, the laser beam does burn a small extra width, or kerf. You may need to experiment to get the correct actual diameter.
** Hold down the CTRL key when drawing to ensure the circle is a circle and not larger in one dimension
* Using the selection tool, grab the middle of the circle
* "Tap" the middle of the circle against the upper left corner of each square with out releasing.
** Once you tap, layout lines will appear and can be used as a guide to place the circle at their intersection.
** The word "intersection" will appear when the cutting circle is correctly placed.

* You may want to test print (no cut) the circle before cutting. Follow the test procedure as outlined above.

Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver

2021-12-17T09:40:46Z

Leebc: /* Examples Of Uses */

The ULS M360 Laser engraver has an "X-Y Mode" which can be used to obtain precise measurements and locations on the laser's bed.

Last revision {{REVISIONTIMESTAMP}} by {{REVISIONUSER}}

__TOC__

== Reasons you might want to Use X-Y Mode ==
* To find a usable area on a piece of already cut material (scrap)
* To mark the exact location of an engrave on an existing piece
** Raster engrave a logo in the middle of a pre-cut plaque
** Vector engrave a design on the right edge of a cutting board
* To find the center of a circle and vector cut a small hole

== How to Use X-Y Mode ==
'''WARNING: The procedures described here may cause sudden, unexpected, rapid movement of laser engraver mechanicals. To avoid injury or damage to the machine: keep body parts and loose materials out of the enclosure. Ensure that objects inside the enclosure will not impact the focus carriage or the air-assist nozzle.'''
* If you are using the rotary attachment, remove the air assist nozzle
* Ensure that the honeycomb bed (if installed) is placed and pressed flush and square against the upper left corner
* Place your work piece on the bed.
** Typically, you will want your material pressed flush into the upper left corner of the bed.
** If you plan on multiple laser passes, secure your work piece to the bed using tape

* Set the Z-height using the standard procedure
* Remove any unnecessary objects from the enclosure, including body parts

[Figure 1: M360 Laser Engraver Control Panel] 
[[File:M360_Laser_Engraver_Control_Panel.png]]

* Make sure the Laser Engraver's display reads "Ready" or the name of your file
* Press the button on the control panel labeled "X-Y". It is near the right hand side.
** The focus carriage MAY rapidly move towards the middle of the work area
** A red laser d•t will appear under the focus carriage
** The display will change and will now show text that includes "X-Pos" and "Y-Pos"
*** If you have the rotary attachment installed, you will see "X-Pos" and the Rotation in degrees.

* Press the left or down arrow that is around the X-Y button
** The focus carriage MAY rapidly move towards the middle of the work area
* The focus carriage will move slightly each time one of the movement buttons is pressed: "Up", "Down", "Left", or "Right"
** MOTION CONTROL: Pressing and holding down one or two adjacent, arrow buttons will cause the Focus Carriage to move in the respective direction. The focus carriage will start to move slowly and will accelerate to a faster speed until you release the button(s).
** This motion will make a loud noise as the motors turn and move the focus carriage
* Use the arrows to move the red laser dot to a feature you want to locate
** With each movement, the "X-Pos" and/or "Y-Pos" will change

* X-Pos is the absolute X-position on the laser engraver's bed
* Y-Pos is the Y-position on the laser engraver's bed,
** HOWEVER: CorelDraw uses the LOWER left corner as the origin, and the Laser Engraver uses the UPPER left corner as the origin
*** '''You must subtract Y-Pos from 12 for the correct value in CorelDraw'''

[Figure2: CorelDraw's Object Property Bar] 
[[File:CorelDraw-Property Bar.png]]
* In CorelDraw, there should be an X and a Y coordinate box near the upper left of the menus. There may be 2 sets of these boxes.
* Next to the coordinates is a small icon with 9 tiny boxes arranged in a square pattern.
** These boxes indicate what point will be used as the Origin Point (the values shown for X and Y) of the currently selected object
*** Top Left, Top Center, Top Right, Left Middle, Middle Center, Right Middle, Bottom Left, Bottom Center, or Bottom Right
* Choose the origin point you wish to use
* Type the X-Pos value into the X box
* In the Y box, type "<code>12 - </code>" and then the Y-Pos, then press "Enter". (That's "twelve minus".) CorelDraw will automatically do the math!
** If you are working in a unit other than inches you can follow the 12 with a double-quote. I.e.: 12" -
* Verify the numbers you typed are correct, sometimes CorelDraw can be finicky about how they are entered.

== Examples Of Uses ==

===Example 1: Cutting a rectangle from a piece of scrap===

Let's say you have a "roughly triangular" piece of scrap material that has a large circle cut from it. There is still a usable amount of material in this piece and you want to cut a rectangle from it to use for a plaque or sign.
You want the rectangle to use the existing corner, the top edge, the left edge, and for the lower corner to intersect the circular cut.
[image suggested]

* Place your work piece in the upper left corner of the laser engraver honeycomb.
** Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.

* Use the arrows to move the red dot to the point on the circle where you want your rectangle to intersect.
** It is usually good to position a little bit short.

* In CorelDraw, select the Lower Right Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle that goes from the upper left corner to roughly where you think it will intersect the circle
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of the X-Pos. For example "<code>5.236</code>" and press enter.
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-2.879</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 9.121
** The rectangle will shift position.
* Grab the upper left corner of the rectangle and drag it to just beyond the boundaries of the document
** Remember, we want to use the existing edge, so we don't need to cut on the top or left side

* Test the rectangles location:
** Set the rectangle's line style to the color you want to cut with and "Hairline"
** With ONLY the rectangle selected, press Ctrl-P to print, or choose "Print" from the "File" menu.
** Choose the option "Selected Only" which is in roughly the middle of the print dialog box
** Make sure the rectangle's color is set to "Vector"
*** Since we are only testing you may want to use a higher speed than normal.
** Click on print
* After a moment, the Laser Engraver should display your file. Use the "Next File >>" button if not.

* '''Make sure you have exited X-Y mode by pressing the X-Y botton'''
* With the lid open and no body parts or objects in the machine, watch where you expect the cut to be made, and press the green "Start" button
* The red laser dot will turn on and will move across the lines to be cut.
** You should only see the right and bottom lines. These lines should intersect exactly at the point you chose.

'''--- Alternate CorelDraw Procedure ---'''

* In CorelDraw, select the Upper Left Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle that goes from the upper left corner to roughly where you think it will intersect the circle
* In the X coordinate box, type "<code>0</code>" and press Enter.
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type "<code>12</code>" and press enter.
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the x-size box ("|↔|") type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>5.236</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* In the y-size box ("↨") type the value of the Y-Pos and press enter. No need to subtract in this method. For example "<code>2.879</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* With this method, you will have a cut on all 4 sides of the rectangle.
* Follow the procedure in the example above to test the location.
** You may find that the left X=0 and top Y=12 cut lines are not at the edges of the honeycomb rulers.

===Example 2a: Placing a logo centered in the middle of a plaque===
For this example, we want to raster engrave a logo in the center of a pre-cut rectangular acrylic plaque.
We are going to assume that the center point of the logo image IS in the center of the logo. This is not always the case, sometimes there is extra white space on one side which can cause a logo to appear uneven.

* Place your work piece (the plaque) in the upper left cornet of the honeycomb bed.
* SHIFT your work piece so that there is about 1/4 inch between the top of the rail and the top of the plaque, and so that there is aproximately 1/4 inch of space between the left rail and the left side of the plaque. You can use anything available as a spacer if desired, perhaps scrap cuts or pens.
* Ensure that the horizontal and vertical axles of the work piece are parallel to the X and Y rails
** You can test this by putting the laser engraver in X-Y mode and moving the red laser dot along an edge or between two mirrored points.

* Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.
* Move the red laser dot to the upper left corner of the plaque.

* In CorelDraw, select the Upper Left Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle that goes from the upper left corner to roughly where you think the lower right corner is.
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>0.225</code>".
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-0.287</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 11.713
** The rectangle will shift position.

* Move the red laser dot to the lower right corner of the plaque.

* In the x-size box ("|↔|") type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>16.236</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* In the y-size box ("↨") type the value of the Y-Pos and press enter. No need to subtract in this method. For example "<code>6.666</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* Import your raster logo. Place it off to the side.
* With the selection tool selected, grab the logo in the middle.
* Drag the logo to the center of the rectangle you drew
* When the center of the logo lines up with the center of the rectangle, you should see the word "Center" underneath the mouse cursor.
** Release the mouse and the logo should snap to the center.

* BEFORE ENGRAVING: You may want to draw a new rectangle around the logo and test print it (no cut) to ensure you have correctly placed the logo in the center.

===Example 2b: Vector engrave a design on the right edge of a cutting board===
For this example, we want to Vector engrave a design on the right edge of a cutting board
We are going to assume that the center point of the design is the center, and that all parts of the design are grouped or otherwise joined, so we don't have to worry when moving it.

* Place your work piece (the cutting board) on the honeycomb bed.
* Ensure that the horizontal and vertical axles of the work piece are parallel to the X and Y rails
** You can test this by putting the laser engraver in X-Y mode and moving the red laser dot along an edge or between two mirrored points.

* Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.
* Move the red laser dot to the exact visual center of where you want the design to be placed.
** Alternately, you could choose to align to one of the corners or the middle of a side

* In CorelDraw, select the Center Origin Point (Or the Origin Point that matches the corner or side you are aligning to)
* Import or copy-paste your vector design if necessary
* Select the design
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>2.123</code>".
** The design will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-5.226</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 6.774.
** The design will shift position.

* You may want to test print (no engrave) the design first. Follow the test procedure as outlined above.

===Example 3: Vector cut a small hole in the center of a circle===
In this example we have a pre-cut circular work piece and want to cut a small circle in the middle of it. (For various reasons we are not able to measure it, or we don't want to go to the trouble of cutting a jig.)
** This method may not get the precise center, but we will be close.

* Place your work piece (the circle) on the honeycomb bed.
* Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.
* Move the red laser dot to the right edge of the circle. Be as precise as you can, the center of the laser dot should align with the right-most point on the circle

* In CorelDraw, select the Upper Left Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle approximately 1 inch square
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>5.980</code>".
** The square will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-2.9895</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 9.0105
** The square will shift position.

* Move the red laser dot to the bottom edge of the circle. Be as precise as you can, the center of the laser dot should align with the bottom-most point on the circle

* In CorelDraw, Draw a second rectangle approximately 1 inch square
* In the X coordinate box, type the new value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>2.899</code>".
** The square will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the new value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-5.983</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 6.017
** The square will shift position.

* Off to the side, draw a circle the diameter of the hole you want to cut.
** '''Please Note:''' Although it is fine and precise, the laser beam does burn a small extra width, or kerf. You may need to experiment to get the correct actual diameter.
** Hold down the CTRL key when drawing to ensure the circle is a circle and not larger in one dimension
* Using the selection tool, grab the middle of the circle
* "Tap" the middle of the circle against the upper left corner of each square with out releasing.
** Once you tap, layout lines will appear and can be used as a guide to place the circle at their intersection.
** The word "intersection" will appear when the cutting circle is correctly placed.

* You may want to test print (no cut) the circle before cutting. Follow the test procedure as outlined above.

Using X-Y Mode to Measure on the Laser Engraver

2021-12-17T09:39:41Z

Leebc: /* Example 1: Cutting a rectangle from a piece of scrap */ bolded --- Alternate CorelDraw Procedure ---

The ULS M360 Laser engraver has an "X-Y Mode" which can be used to obtain precise measurements and locations on the laser's bed.

Last revision {{REVISIONTIMESTAMP}} by {{REVISIONUSER}}

__TOC__

== Reasons you might want to Use X-Y Mode ==
* To find a usable area on a piece of already cut material (scrap)
* To mark the exact location of an engrave on an existing piece
** Raster engrave a logo in the middle of a pre-cut plaque
** Vector engrave a design on the right edge of a cutting board
* To find the center of a circle and vector cut a small hole

== How to Use X-Y Mode ==
'''WARNING: The procedures described here may cause sudden, unexpected, rapid movement of laser engraver mechanicals. To avoid injury or damage to the machine: keep body parts and loose materials out of the enclosure. Ensure that objects inside the enclosure will not impact the focus carriage or the air-assist nozzle.'''
* If you are using the rotary attachment, remove the air assist nozzle
* Ensure that the honeycomb bed (if installed) is placed and pressed flush and square against the upper left corner
* Place your work piece on the bed.
** Typically, you will want your material pressed flush into the upper left corner of the bed.
** If you plan on multiple laser passes, secure your work piece to the bed using tape

* Set the Z-height using the standard procedure
* Remove any unnecessary objects from the enclosure, including body parts

[Figure 1: M360 Laser Engraver Control Panel] 
[[File:M360_Laser_Engraver_Control_Panel.png]]

* Make sure the Laser Engraver's display reads "Ready" or the name of your file
* Press the button on the control panel labeled "X-Y". It is near the right hand side.
** The focus carriage MAY rapidly move towards the middle of the work area
** A red laser d•t will appear under the focus carriage
** The display will change and will now show text that includes "X-Pos" and "Y-Pos"
*** If you have the rotary attachment installed, you will see "X-Pos" and the Rotation in degrees.

* Press the left or down arrow that is around the X-Y button
** The focus carriage MAY rapidly move towards the middle of the work area
* The focus carriage will move slightly each time one of the movement buttons is pressed: "Up", "Down", "Left", or "Right"
** MOTION CONTROL: Pressing and holding down one or two adjacent, arrow buttons will cause the Focus Carriage to move in the respective direction. The focus carriage will start to move slowly and will accelerate to a faster speed until you release the button(s).
** This motion will make a loud noise as the motors turn and move the focus carriage
* Use the arrows to move the red laser dot to a feature you want to locate
** With each movement, the "X-Pos" and/or "Y-Pos" will change

* X-Pos is the absolute X-position on the laser engraver's bed
* Y-Pos is the Y-position on the laser engraver's bed,
** HOWEVER: CorelDraw uses the LOWER left corner as the origin, and the Laser Engraver uses the UPPER left corner as the origin
*** '''You must subtract Y-Pos from 12 for the correct value in CorelDraw'''

[Figure2: CorelDraw's Object Property Bar] 
[[File:CorelDraw-Property Bar.png]]
* In CorelDraw, there should be an X and a Y coordinate box near the upper left of the menus. There may be 2 sets of these boxes.
* Next to the coordinates is a small icon with 9 tiny boxes arranged in a square pattern.
** These boxes indicate what point will be used as the Origin Point (the values shown for X and Y) of the currently selected object
*** Top Left, Top Center, Top Right, Left Middle, Middle Center, Right Middle, Bottom Left, Bottom Center, or Bottom Right
* Choose the origin point you wish to use
* Type the X-Pos value into the X box
* In the Y box, type "<code>12 - </code>" and then the Y-Pos, then press "Enter". (That's "twelve minus".) CorelDraw will automatically do the math!
** If you are working in a unit other than inches you can follow the 12 with a double-quote. I.e.: 12" -
* Verify the numbers you typed are correct, sometimes CorelDraw can be finicky about how they are entered.

== Examples Of Uses ==

===Example 1: Cutting a rectangle from a piece of scrap===

Let's say you have a "roughly triangular" piece of scrap material that has a large circle cut from it. There is still a usable amount of material in this piece and you want to cut a rectangle from it to use for a plaque or sign.
You want the rectangle to use the existing corner, the top edge, the left edge, and for the lower corner to intersect the circular cut.
[image suggested]

* Place your work piece in the upper left corner of the laser engraver honeycomb.
** Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.

* Use the arrows to move the red dot to the point on the circle where you want your rectangle to intersect.
** It is usually good to position a little bit short.

* In CorelDraw, select the Lower Right Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle that goes from the upper left corner to roughly where you think it will intersect the circle
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of the X-Pos. For example "<code>5.236</code>" and press enter.
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-2.879</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 9.121
** The rectangle will shift position.
* Grab the upper left corner of the rectangle and drag it to just beyond the boundaries of the document
** Remember, we want to use the existing edge, so we don't need to cut on the top or left side

* Test the rectangles location:
** Set the rectangle's line style to the color you want to cut with and "Hairline"
** With ONLY the rectangle selected, press Ctrl-P to print, or choose "Print" from the "File" menu.
** Choose the option "Selected Only" which is in roughly the middle of the print dialog box
** Make sure the rectangle's color is set to "Vector"
*** Since we are only testing you may want to use a higher speed than normal.
** Click on print
* After a moment, the Laser Engraver should display your file. Use the "Next File >>" button if not.

* '''Make sure you have exited X-Y mode by pressing the X-Y botton'''
* With the lid open and no body parts or objects in the machine, watch where you expect the cut to be made, and press the green "Start" button
* The red laser dot will turn on and will move across the lines to be cut.
** You should only see the right and bottom lines. These lines should intersect exactly at the point you chose.

'''--- Alternate CorelDraw Procedure ---'''

* In CorelDraw, select the Upper Left Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle that goes from the upper left corner to roughly where you think it will intersect the circle
* In the X coordinate box, type "<code>0</code>" and press Enter.
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type "<code>12</code>" and press enter.
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the x-size box ("|↔|") type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>5.236</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* In the y-size box ("↨") type the value of the Y-Pos and press enter. No need to subtract in this method. For example "<code>2.879</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* With this method, you will have a cut on all 4 sides of the rectangle.
* Follow the procedure in the example above to test the location.
** You may find that the left X=0 and top Y=12 cut lines are not at the edges of the honeycomb rulers.

===Example 2a: Placing a logo centered in the middle of a plaque===
For this example, we want to raster engrave a logo in the center of a pre-cut rectangular acrylic plaque.
We are going to assume that the center point of the logo image IS in the center of the logo. This is not always the case, sometimes there is extra white space on one side which can cause a logo to appear uneven.

* Place your work piece (the plaque) in the upper left cornet of the honeycomb bed.
* SHIFT your work piece so that there is about 1/4 inch between the top of the rail and the top of the plaque, and so that there is aproximately 1/4 inch of space between the left rail and the left side of the plaque. You can use anything available as a spacer if desired, perhaps scrap cuts or pens.
* Ensure that the horizontal and vertical axles of the work piece are parallel to the X and Y rails
** You can test this by putting the laser engraver in X-Y mode and moving the red laser dot along an edge or between two mirrored points.

* Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.
* Move the red laser dot to the upper left corner of the plaque.

* In CorelDraw, select the Upper Left Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle that goes from the upper left corner to roughly where you think the lower right corner is.
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>0.225</code>".
** The rectangle will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-0.287</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 11.713
** The rectangle will shift position.

* Move the red laser dot to the lower right corner of the plaque.

* In the x-size box ("|↔|") type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>16.236</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* In the y-size box ("↨") type the value of the Y-Pos and press enter. No need to subtract in this method. For example "<code>6.666</code>".
** The rectangle will resize.
* Import your raster logo. Place it off to the side.
* With the selection tool selected, grab the logo in the middle.
* Drag the logo to the center of the rectangle you drew
* When the center of the logo lines up with the center of the rectangle, you should see the word "Center" underneath the mouse cursor.
** Release the mouse and the logo should snap to the center.

* BEFORE ENGRAVING: You may want to draw a new rectangle around the logo and test print it (no cut) to ensure you have correctly placed the logo in the center.

===Example 2b: Vector engrave a design on the right edge of a cutting board===
For this example, we want to Vector engrave a design on the right edge of a cutting board
We are going to assume that the center point of the design is the center, and that all parts of the design are grouped or otherwise joined, so we don't have to worry when moving it.

* Place your work piece (the cutting board) on the honeycomb bed.
* Ensure that the horizontal and vertical axles of the work piece are parallel to the X and Y rails
** You can test this by putting the laser engraver in X-Y mode and moving the red laser dot along an edge or between two mirrored points.

* Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.
* Move the red laser dot to the exact visual center of where you want the design to be placed.
** Alternately, you could choose to align to one of the corners or the middle of a side

* In CorelDraw, select the Center Origin Point (Or the Origin Point that matches the corner or side you are aligning to)
* Import or copy-paste your vector design if necessary
* Select the design
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>2.123</code>".
** The design will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-5.226</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 6.774.
** The design will shift position.

* You may want to test print (no engrave) the design first. Follow the test procedure as outlined above.

===Example 3: Vector cut a small hole in the center of a circle===
In this example we have a pre-cut circular work piece and want to cut a small circle in the middle of it. (For various reasons we are not able to measure it, or we don't want to go to the trouble of cutting a jig.)
** This method may not get the precise center, but we will be close.

* Place your work piece (the circle) on the honeycomb bed.
* Follow the procedures outlined above to enter X-Y mode.
* Move the red laser dot to the right edge of the circle. Be as precise as you can, the center of the laser dot should align with the right-most point on the circle

* In CorelDraw, select the Upper Left Origin Point
* Draw a rectangle approximately 1 inch square
* In the X coordinate box, type the value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>5.980</code>".
** The square will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-2.9895</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 9.0105
** The square will shift position.

* Move the red laser dot to the bottom edge of the circle. Be as precise as you can, the center of the laser dot should align with the bottom-most point on the circle

* In CorelDraw, Draw a second rectangle approximately 1 inch square
* In the X coordinate box, type the new value of X-Pos and press enter. For example "<code>2.899</code>".
** The square will shift position.
* In the Y coordinate box, type 12 minus the new value of the Y-Pos. For example "<code>12-5.983</code>" and press enter. CorelDraw will do the math for you and should show the Y coordinate as 6.017
** The square will shift position.

* Off to the side, draw a circle the diameter of the hole you want to cut.
** '''Please Note:''' Although it is fine and precise, the laser beam does burn a small extra width, or kerf. You may need to experiment to get the correct actual diameter.
** Hold down the CTRL key when drawing to ensure the circle is a circle and not larger in one dimension
* Using the selection tool, grab the middle of the circle
* "Tap" the middle of the circle against the upper left corner of each square with out releasing.
** Once you tap, layout lines will appear and can be used as a guide to place the circle at their intersection.
** The word "intersection" will appear when the cutting circle is correctly placed.

* You may want to test print (no cut) the circle before cutting. Follow the test procedure as outlined above.