User:Leebc

From Tampa Hackerspace
Revision as of 09:53, 8 December 2022 by Leebc (talk | contribs) (→‎Lasercut Frames: Text dump)
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About me

What I Make

Classes I Teach

  • None.

Classes I could be talked into teaching if there is enough explicit interest:

  • "Designing laser-cuttable model buildings for D&D, railroad, and other miniatures terrain"
  • "Introduction to pottery: Pinch pots, coil pots, and slab pots" (This may be 2 or 3 separate classes.
  • "Designing 3d printable furniture in OpenSCAD"
  • "A method for creating UV maps/textures for 3d models for use in Unity3d"


Interests

  • MAPS!
  • Laser cutting flat things and turning into 3d things
  • Visualizing strange data

Slack Channels I post in

#laser-engraver

#astronomy

#spacetech

#sewing-and-textiles

#kilns

#cosplay

#3d-modeling

#science-articles

#VR

#random-bryan-shares

Some of my projects

Research

Lasercut Frames

Some collected thoughts on laser-cutting picture frame

Asked in slack and on facebook: Does anyone have any thoughts on finishing laser-cut picture frames? I could cut multiple parts out of 1/8th" or 1/16th" material and glue together, but my real concern and question is about finishing the edges. MDF or acrylic would have a clean edge, and the whole thing could be painted... but what if you were using 1/8" or 1/4" plywood? Can you think of a material that would be better for picture frames? How hard is it to work with a stick-on veneer? What kind of paint?

My friend don shared this with me: >> It's not really a frame. The trapezoid shapes are glued to the back. The QR code is vinyl cut. The border is cheap 5mm lauan stained. Finished with polycrylic. Could probably glue/epoxy/adhere a border on clear acrylic.

Some suggestions from the THS-slack include:

  • vinyl wrap the frame
  • "Cheaper material like Plywood could get cleaned up with some of the same techniques and materials as 3d printed parts, Water putty/spot putty to fill in voids and then sand able primer and you can get a very clean surface to paint to get the same finish as solid wood parts."

Another suggestion is to laser-cut a bevel using a jig. This should work if the frame pieces are thin enough and narrow enough.

Kelli-Lynn Luckey Acrylic mirror could be really nice. I love stick on veneer. I laser cut it and use it with finished plywood in layers. I just make sure to laser myself a template on the bottom layer because it’s really hard to line stuff up without it. I also like the look of veneer on top of acrylic too. Otherwise I feel like a mitered edge is really a nice finish for frames if you have the tools. So I would probably do that then paint/stain, spray with the triple thick clear topcoat (sand in between coats) if I want the grain or maybe top it with a thin layer of resin if not. I’m kinda addicted to how easy and quick UV resin is but regular resin would be so quick if you had several to do When you're talking about making miters, are you talking meaning like in my image below or about cutting the edge itself at a 45 degree bevel like they do with mat-board in professional framing shops?

Kelli-Lynn Luckey Mul Duran probably a bevel. I’ve seen big and small tools that finish the edge off for you and it looks so much nicer to me (vs a blunt laser cut edge on say a 1/4” plywood frame)

Acrylic mirror: Could make a mirror by cutting a back plate of mirrored acrylic, then acrylic cement or CA glue on some black or white strips of acrylic like this. maybe put some round or shaped holes in them so the mirror...uh... mirrors through.

Kelli-Lynn Luckey Mul Duran or could paint the black & white on using masking as a template or use a thin veneer so the mirror isn’t too shadowed

Acrylic frame with mirrored edges (black background)

Living Hinges